I think the best first question would be related to your concern of emissions. Where are you located, as emissions laws are different in different areas.
now that ontario does diagnostics tests rather than tail pipe test for emissions, I think u may be able to pass it if the system doesnt throw codes, but yeah that probably wont get you to 600whp on pump, prob come up a little short
Bro - I drove, raced, beat the shit out of my bolt on set up for 2 years - from 2011 - 2013 making maybe in the mid 5s running 10 second traps with fried clutches not letting me launch for over half that time(you clutches will go, in due time) - you don't need an intercooler. All you need is injectors, intakes, catless downpipes, mid pipe and a proper tune. Everything else is just extra - the catback(realistically at bolt on levels you aren't really going to pick up any significant gains), the intercooler(waste of money unless you upgrading motor, turbos etc) at 600 WTQ your rods are a ticking time bomb and in due time they will let go but if tuned right and kept slightly under you should be fine. P.S our pump gas sucks so look into flex fuel kits as E85 is available, sure not at the pump but it is available and it is the only fuel I run and or will ever run.
It is vert humid here in ONtario during the summer (up to 100% believe it or not) at around 30 to 36 degree Celsius. So if you want to absolutely push it, then yes you need the INter Cooler. I am deliberately skipping that until wtare-to-air becomes available.
I'm using AMS downpipes and they're extremely well made. Great quality and would highly recommend them. There are several good brands as well, but make sure you get a cast bellmouth.
Like downpipes, many companies make Midpipes as well. I had a boost logic non resonated mid before and it fit perfectly. Using an akrapovic titanium mid pipe now and it's extremely light and well made. But you can't go wrong with any of the big names: hks, aam, cobb, sbd, boost logic etc...
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You do not need it in Ontario. I'm across the lake in the Rochester area and the cars dyno exactly the same with or without FMIC. Full weight car with 20's runs 10.3 minor weight reduction on 18's 9.9. Average DA in summer is +2000 and never a problem running these numbers.
580/600 on heartbreaker mustang dyno.
10 days at most all summer we are 95 / 36 or higher.
You do not need it in Ontario. I'm across the lake in the Rochester area and the cars dyno exactly the same with or without FMIC. Full weight car with 20's runs 10.3 minor weight reduction on 18's 9.9. Average DA in summer is +2000 and never a problem running these numbers.
Very well, let me rephrase that then. No, you do not NEED the intercooler, but with any proper build you build your car to 80% for what the peak capacity is supposed to expect. So yes, if you want to build your car properly, in the long run a FBO in ONtarion should theoretically have a larger Intercooler. Especially taking into account that our summers are getting hotter and more humid.
What's safe guys to run ? I don't want to worry about tranny braking or engine what's the max I can get from my gtr with stock turbos and stock tranny ?
When I was FBO E85 I was about the same 400+ at 2200, 542 @ 3500, 650 @ 4100 launch. I had a track map but a street map that was still kill but just pulled boost out of first so I could still lunch at 4100 on the street and not bog or wait to build boost.
This worked very well. Your not limited to maps, so if you ever spinning on the street, just grab a lower boost setting in 1st.
Elevation has to be interesting. Feels like a completely different car up high.
I'm going much bigger soon so keep that in mind. I don't like changing parts more than once and only a few items will come off for my ets3586hta build.
Ets Race FMIC kit
tial Qr Bov
ID1300 tuned on e85 and 93
Fore innovation triple pump
Got boost 3" intakes
Titek catless DP
Password JDM midpipe
Stock mufflers
Cobb tune
This sounds very dumb but what octane is e85 ? And how do I get that. I'll that's here is 94 octane that's all. If I want to get max power from my tune on stock motor and turbo do I run this e85 all the time or inly when I want to push it ?
Unless flex fuel setup you will run E85 and nothing else.
E85 has an effective rating equivalent to 105 or greater, but can vary widely. e70 is about 100.
Google:
The first thing we need to know is that E85, the most common of the ethanol fuel blends, is actually three fuel grades. Class 1 or "pure" E85 contains 80 to 84 percent ethanol, while the remainder of the blend is commercial-grade (around 85 pump octane) gasoline. Class 2 or E75 is 75 to 79 percent ethanol, while Class 3 or E70 is 70 to 74 percent ethanol. However, all three classes of fuel may be marketed as E85 at various times during the year. While it seems confusing, this is done mainly to offer better cold-starting performance-which is a problem with ethanol fuels. Since straight ethanol has a relatively low Reid vapor pressure (meaning it doesn't like to light off at low temperatures), greater percentages of gasoline are added to the blend for colder weather. So while E85 is often described as 105 pump octane, its actual rating can vary depending upon the seasonal blend. Naturally, higher gasoline content will tend to lower the pump octane from 105 for "pure" E85 to perhaps 100 for E75-though these figures are approximations, it is important to note. Since ethanol is relatively new on the consumer scene, it is just not as thoroughly documented or standardized as gasoline. This is why, in part, you may see E85 described as anywhere from 100 to 106 octane.
Downside of this is it's not automatic and you need to get your ethanol percentages correct within reason. +/- 5 or even ten percent ethanol variation is generally not going to make a difference on a street tune that isn't on the ragged edge.
Im thinking of adding 3"intake to my car , cobb Tune o, 1000cc injectors , running on e85 , with an Armytrix full exhaust would it be pushing 600? And would my tranny b able to hold it :d need advice thanks.
^^ May not be 100% correct, but if he is on E85 and switches without a flex fuel kit, he is going to be guessing at what his in tank mix is.
In general, this isn't safe nor worth the grenade IMHO.
Even with switching tunes, there is a huge difference thinking you have 105 octane when your 93 pump was low to begin with and the E85 is really more like E70 just because you topped off 10 gallons of E85 as example.
If you aren't on the ragged edge, even if you get your ethanol mix wrong by 5-10 percent that effectively means no more than about 3% fueling variance and maybe 1 octane point at most being extremely conservative here. There is nothing to worry about on a street tune. Fuel trims will more than handle that small of a variance.
I totally agree that a proper flex fuel tune is absolutely the right way to go, but you don't have to! Your statement was that there was no way to run an e85 map and pump gas map without a flex fuel tune and I wanted to clarify that wasn't exactly true. You can absolutely have map switching for different fuels.
I would go Flex Fuel if going E85 - its what an extra 800 bucks for the sensor, well worth it, no constant headaches of switching fuels and getting every last drop out.
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