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Tough Call - 1200+ or 800+ build

10K views 63 replies 36 participants last post by  Turbohips 
#1 ·
OK so let's pretend that the cost difference of 13k isn't an issue. The options on builds would be"

Package A
Built motor
950 Jacks trans
GTX3076R turbo kit
and all supporting mods

Package B
Built motor
800 Jacks trans
some kind of upgraded stock manifold turbos
and all supporting mods

My goal is to have a bitching street car and also badass road racing car. I know road racing anything around 1000 hp is plain stupid but not so for a street car. I only want to build once and not regret it. For those that have gone these routes what was the deciding factor and which package would you choose if you had to do it all over again? I daily drive my car and only hit the road coarse if lucky once per month. All input is greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
Go with the smaller build. You said it yourself, if you go to the road coarse once per month (if you're lucky) then having the bigger build would be silly. Not only because you can't use all of the power, but because your lap times would suffer also. The turbo spool will be much better with the lower hp build. There's really no need for the bigger build for your situation.
1- daily driving
2- road coarse
3- save your damn money!!

Lol, choose wisely. That is my opinion brother.
 
#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
Make sure you hire a good and reputable shop for the work. Also make sure you have a good amount of cash on hand in case if something breaks and the build ends up costing you much more.

Speaking of the builds themselves, I would choose based on the driver's experience. If you have daily-driven a 800+ horsepower car for some years and you are comfortable with it, then go for the 1200+ horsepower build. If you have never driven a car of that level of horsepower, go for the 800+ horsepower build. Personally, I think 400 whp is the maximum you need for the street, and 500 whp is the maximum you need for the track. Any amount more than these is just a daily practice of self-control and about feeling good of what you have. Building a GT-R of this level is like having a large collection of luxury watches, you know. You only do it when you feel like you want to indulge yourself.
 
#5 ·
Jack's with factory manifold turbo's.

It's the best bang for the buck deal on the market.

900-950whp for pennies in comparison to what you're going to pay for an aftermarket full turbo kit.

If you want to run 8's, go all out.

But if you want a road race/ track car on a 3.8L build, you're throwing money away.....as the fast spooling factory manifold upgrades will be more responsive.

Chris
 
#8 ·
Definitely agree with what Chris said.

Go with some good stock frame turbos, but definitely get the Drag950 to allow for future upgradeability. And do this after TX2k!!!

If you want to see what an 850whp Jacks-built car feels like, I'll be happy to take you for a ride!
 
#10 ·
I guess one thing u need to list with initial motor package is what size 3.8 or stepping up to 4.x.

4.x would be overkill for 8xx hp but would only require labor to build the motor once if u wanted to change turbos at a later time.

Best way to save money is do it right the first time and plan to overbuild.

Going with the 950 trans costs more initially but can grow if the 8xx isn't enough.

Once the build is done and u have ur 4.x and 950 trans you have so many choices of what turbo company to make the power you want to be in.
 
#12 ·
If you plan on road racing don't go with the higher power package. Go with lower power and over build everything. Drag racers and highway racers only stress their car for maybe a max of 30 seconds at a time per pull... Road racing you'll be on course for 15-20 min sessions if not longer. All that extra power is going to create a lot more heat and be even harder on the car over the extended period of time. Not to mention the car is going to be harder to drive fast at that power level on track. Build the trans, engine, cooling system, brakes, etc like you are going for a 1200hp build, but use small fast spooling turbos and keep boost turned down on the track for longevity and cooling.
 
#13 · (Edited by Moderator)
Go with the smaller build and the 950 trans. Power levels will be maintainable and you will still have room to grow if you want more power.

1200+ is way more cost than the trans. At that point you're fuel system is much more complex and expensive. Most likely rails, new lines, and triple pump.

Not too mention you will need to strengthen the axles as well.

I would also add put the extra saved money into a good oil and trans cooler if you plan to road race. Temps get hot.
 
#14 ·
I don't think Gtx30 will be helpful at road course at all. Look at topspeed one lap car. As stated above there are alot of cost will 1200+ hp. I am sure many have spent over 200k on mods including fixing items that break and spare parts.

As far as turn down boost, you got a laggy engine. Just look for Gtx30 from ETS dyno flgraph. I think it post at what rpm it hits full boost. Get the facts then decide. Some people claims 5k rpm full boost but has no lag. So best is get the data and interpret yourself because same data one might say laggy and one says spool fast.
 
#15 · (Edited by Moderator)
I am extremely happy with the A9 and don't regret it. I'm on E85 and haven't once thought I would ever need more. 1000+hp cars have gotten left pretty hard. It's such a useable platform.

I'm also fairly confident a stock frame turbo car setup properly will run a 8.99 with some minor weight reduction.

Don't get hung up on a dyno number. I care more about trap speed. 150+ vs 160+ ? Both IMO are blindingly fast on the street and can get you in a lot of trouble quickly.
 
#18 ·
My personal 2 cents....

Build the motor, over build the tranny, go with smaller turbos and put some funds into brakes and suspension.

And do your homework on vendors before pulling the trigger. (here's a hint.......TSM has done well with their road course cars)
 
#21 ·
OK thanks for all the input fellas. I'm going to get the stock turbo upgrade with built motor/trans. Just not exactly sure who I'm going with yet. Still receiving quotes but should have a final decision hopefully this week. I appreciate all the feedback. I'll make another post of my build progress once it begins.
 
#24 ·
Another very cool option that ETS offers is a GTX28 turbo in their custom manifold setup. You will have extremely quick spool and if you ever want a bigger turbo later down the line, you can swap it out with all other hardware left in place saving you $.
 
#25 · (Edited by Moderator)
LMAO at the difference in 800whp and 1200whp being 12k. More like $35k+.

My entire 750X kit (upgraded turbos, fuel, intercooler etc) will be for sale shortly, 900whp+ capable.

BL Coated Downpipes
BL Street Intercooler
BL 3" Intercooler Piping Kit
BL Custom GT30 Turbos Billet Wheels & Actuators
ID1000 Injectors
BL Dual Denso Fuel Pumps
AMS Map Sensor
HKS Spark Plugs
BL Catch Can Setup
BL EGR Block Off Plate
BL Custom Inlets
 
#27 ·
900-950whp u can get it with stage4 GTC turbos (6758s) its an amazing turbos with hell of fast spool + 3.8L and stage 1 gear + Ben tune = solid setup ;)
 
#29 ·
OP, you're welcome to go for a ride in my car to see what 850whp feels like. Just got it back from Jacks, and the pull is amazing. Think I said "holy shit" about 8 times during the first drive. Feels like my car did at FBO+SiR 1.5s, plus about 25% more.

I think after experiencing a good 850whp build, you'll not be wanting for more power!
 
#32 ·
The question really depends on what your goals are with the car and what it's intended use will be. After driving around on my high setting for a bit and lowering it down to around 800-850, it's just boring now... lol. Since I am on stock gears I had to turn it down but I will be sending my trans back to Jack's soon for his Drag 950 with billet gears so I can really turn it up. Depending on your budget, 1200+ is the only way to go.
 
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