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#1 NickTO Posted 02 April 2009 - 02:26 PM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:22 PM.



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#2 NickTO Posted 02 April 2009 - 02:28 PM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:22 PM.



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#3 cacou Posted 02 April 2009 - 03:13 PM

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I was told a Canadian Tire close to my house (Montreal) has it in stock.  Apparently, only some stores carry it.



#4 NickTO Posted 03 April 2009 - 07:23 AM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:22 PM.



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#5 Gdzilla_ Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:29 AM

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Nissan OEM tranny fluid in alberta is 112$ per liter..

compared to Pentosin FFL-4  at 27.15$ per liter..

Motul gear oil 300 75-140   runs 27.95$ per liter...




hey nickto... what's your thoughts on using Motul 300 75-140  to Amsoil Severe Gear 75w140 EP differential .. compared to the OEM Castrol SAF XJ  full synthetic SAE  75-140 ...

Amsoil gear oil apparently is more economic...


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#6 NickTO Posted 03 April 2009 - 11:41 AM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:22 PM.



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#7 descartesfool Posted 03 April 2009 - 03:39 PM

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Where did you get pricing on FFL-4? I can't find it.



#8 Gdzilla_ Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:40 PM

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View Postdescartesfool, on Apr 3 2009, 03:39 PM, said:

Where did you get pricing on FFL-4? I can't find it.


Bavaria BMW in Edmonton...  its 30$ retail but nick in parts would do trade price at 27.15$ when you by a case (12 one liter bottles)


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#9 Road Rage Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:48 PM

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I would be wary of Amsoil's oil filters - if they still use Hastings filters, the flow rates may not be what are needed in the GT-R. Speed of oil flow is important to cooling, and also what PSI the oil bypass valve opens at. If the Hastings/Amsoil is off on either, their wear is possible. I have found that Mobil 1 filters and STP filters are identical, down to the stampings and hol;e locations/number. So the STP is a good deal if you think M1 filters are good.

Motul tends to use esters in their products - Group V synoils similar to Red Line's. Very shear stable and heat tolerant. Amsoil uses G-IV polyalphaolefins. Additives are similar in all these products and are really the key components in gear lubes meeting GL-5 spec for EP fluids.

Other than winter use, I do not see the wisdom of using M1 0w40 past break-in period. 0w40 has a lot of VII's - these will break down in the high RPM world over time, and then that 0w40 becomes much thinner. Note that Nissan allows 10w40 use, which is dumb since hardly anyone makes that anymore. Duh!

I think the 5w40's are a better choice by far - first, you get a wider choice of better synoils, like Valvoline, Red Line, Motul, and even M1's "extended perf" products. 5w40 is typical "European formulation" these days, and meets Porsche, M-B, Audi, etc. specs. By better I mean the base stocks and/or the add packs have higher levels of anti-wear materials. Also, note that the 'SM" API spec, while current, has not been embraced by some of the better oil companies. SM was pushed onto the industry by the car MFRS, mostly to extend the life of their catalytic converters and avoid EPA wrath at the 60k+ mileage range of service. This forced the oil comapnies to lower the ZDDP levels (proven anti-wear - AW additives) , and go to other AW elements that do the job, but do not yet have the proven track record of ZDDP. For my engine and my money, I go with the companies that show the best UOA's, or the best track records - and I have seen cars with major oil company graphics on their cars pouring Red Line in the pits. It is the phosphorous in engine oils that can cause problems with cats down the road, by which is cheaper - a cat or an engine? The MFRS do not care about your getting 100k of service from your engine, as long as they do not have warranty claims on emissions systems.



But what do I know?? :newbie:



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#10 Gdzilla_ Posted 03 April 2009 - 04:56 PM

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View PostNickTO, on Apr 3 2009, 11:41 AM, said:

Glad you asked... Take a look at this and let me know what you think (it's lengthy, but explains my choice):

http://www.nagtroc.o...mp;showentry=28

Essentially, both Motul and Amsoil appear to be fairly equal product, and both superior to the Castrol SAF-XJ . The main aspect is the foaming tendency of the Castrol product which I think is a critical differentiator given the front diff small holding capacity. The big difference between Motul and Amsoil is price.

excellent diagnoses...  and i was going to order some Motul from Calgary..  well my FFL-4 tranny fluid has arrived and you've sold me on the Amsoil over Motul....

which retail outlet do you find the Amsoil at?  and are you going to utilize the Amsoil slip-lock additive? i guess it wouldn't hurt anything by doing so...


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#11 Gdzilla_ Posted 03 April 2009 - 05:02 PM

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View PostRoad Rage, on Apr 3 2009, 04:48 PM, said:

I would be wary of Amsoil's oil filters - if they still use Hastings filters, the flow rates may not be what are needed in the GT-R. Speed of oil flow is important to cooling, and also what PSI the oil bypass valve opens at. If the Hastings/Amsoil is off on either, their wear is possible. I have found that Mobil 1 filters and STP filters are identical, down to the stampings and hol;e locations/number. So the STP is a good deal if you think M1 filters are good.

Motul tends to use esters in their products - Group V synoils similar to Red Line's. Very shear stable and heat tolerant. Amsoil uses G-IV polyalphaolefins. Additives are similar in all these products and are really the key components in gear lubes meeting GL-5 spec for EP fluids.

Other than winter use, I do not see the wisdom of using M1 0w40 past break-in period. 0w40 has a lot of VII's - these will break down in the high RPM world over time, and then that 0w40 becomes much thinner. Note that Nissan allows 10w40 use, which is dumb since hardly anyone makes that anymore. Duh!

I think the 5w40's are a better choice by far - first, you get a wider choice of better synoils, like Valvoline, Red Line, Motul, and even M1's "extended perf" products. 5w40 is typical "European formulation" these days, and meets Porsche, M-B, Audi, etc. specs. By better I mean the base stocks and/or the add packs have higher levels of anti-wear materials. Also, note that the 'SM" API spec, while current, has not been embraced by some of the better oil companies. SM was pushed onto the industry by the car MFRS, mostly to extend the life of their catalytic converters and avoid EPA wrath at the 60k+ mileage range of service. This forced the oil comapnies to lower the ZDDP levels (proven anti-wear - AW additives) , and go to other AW elements that do the job, but do not yet have the proven track record of ZDDP. For my engine and my money, I go with the companies that show the best UOA's, or the best track records - and I have seen cars with major oil company graphics on their cars pouring Red Line in the pits. It is the phosphorous in engine oils that can cause problems with cats down the road, by which is cheaper - a cat or an engine? The MFRS do not care about your getting 100k of service from your engine, as long as they do not have warranty claims on emissions systems.



But what do I know?? :newbie:



RR.

i do agree with you there..i'm using the M1 0w40 just through the break in period and then its up to the M1 5w40 grade after that.... or perhaps Royal Purple.. i use the RP in my tuner Solstice cause its supercharged with meth injection..and its good stuff...


Delivered September 8th 2008...

2009 GTR R35 Premium... Ivory Pearl/Black...


#12 NickTO Posted 03 April 2009 - 05:38 PM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:22 PM.



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#13 Gdzilla_ Posted 03 April 2009 - 05:45 PM

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lol..funny story.  i just got off the phone with Amsoil online.. and i'll be picking up my order at the Edmonton warehouse,  pretty decent pricing with a 6 month membership..  i'll have to stock up

thanks for the help nickto.. have a great weekend...  :irock:


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#14 davidm_sh Posted 10 April 2009 - 10:32 AM

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View PostRoad Rage, on Apr 3 2009, 04:48 PM, said:

Other than winter use, I do not see the wisdom of using M1 0w40 past break-in period. 0w40 has a lot of VII's - these will break down in the high RPM world over time, and then that 0w40 becomes much thinner. Note that Nissan allows 10w40 use, which is dumb since hardly anyone makes that anymore. Duh!

Since you seem to have done a lot of research into oils in general (I have been on bitog.com a bit but I only have so much time [heh]). I was wondering what your opinion on the Mobil1 10w-40 oil is?

0w-40 data sheet - http://www.mobil.com...bil_1_0W-40.asp
10w-40 data sheet - http://www.mobil.com...Mileage_Oil.asp



#15 celsius Posted 28 April 2009 - 06:03 AM

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How is the FFL-4 working out?  Also, anyone know the P# for the K&N Filters?



#16 NickTO Posted 28 April 2009 - 06:28 AM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 10:24 PM.



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#17 Touge.ca Posted 04 September 2009 - 05:22 AM

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anyone try
LiquiMoly 0w40 -Group 5, 100% full synthetic oil before?

we carry those.  0w40, 5w40, and 10w60 as well.

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#18 1Day Posted 16 March 2010 - 09:58 PM

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This is a great thread. Almost digging it out from  the dead. Any more info on this that others might want to add?

So did anyone successfully try the pentosin with tracking? Even if you have to change this oil within third the period of willall it would make it so much cheaper.


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Mods
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1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#19 Codzilla Posted 21 April 2011 - 04:02 PM

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So...
in your opinion what would be the best engine oil combo to run?

motul 300 v  0-5 w 40-50

mobil 1 whatever grade

amsoil 15 w 50 ( turbos like thin oil on start up ? )

what else???



#20 Interiorman Posted 04 May 2011 - 02:44 PM

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Just found out that my front brake pad is cracking while the car was at the dealer.  I was quoted $1650 for a set of OEM brake pads  :doh:

I have no idea what in hell Nissan Canada is up too.  My pads had 18500Km with two track days (where I was still feeling out the car and did not drive it so hard).   Even my service advisor was shocked by the price and suggested that I look at aftermarket.

Nissan needs to pull the head out of their A#% because if they keep this up, everyone will abandon the dealers for any type of service.   My big concern is how can $1650 brake pads fail so easily?   If Nissan wants to charge such a premium, they need to have the quality to back up the premium they ask for.  The car is such an amazing piece of technology for the money, but the value stops there.  Get into maintenance and it's crazy.





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