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How to best Jack up the car for a quick oil change?


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#1 1Day Posted 27 July 2010 - 03:50 PM

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So the other day before the track, I was swapping out my street set of wheels and tires for the track set. Once I was done, I thought might as well do a quick drain and fill of the engine oil without the filter since i changed the filter only 700 mi before.

I jacked the car up from the front and put the jack stand in the rear and went to the other side and did the same, but the clearance wasnt enough for me to comfortably go under.

Then I realized that I made a mistake, I should have first jacked the car from the rear, put the jack stand in front, then go to the other side rear and jack it up to put the other jack stand to give enough clearance.

Now is this ok to do, considering the jack lifts the entire side of the car at the same time. So once I have put it on one jack stand and then try and jack the other side, the car becomes wobbly or freely moveable, or atleast it feels like that. So is this an acceptable way of jacking up the car's front for an oil change?

If not what could I do  for this?

Thanks


2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#2 Goodwood Posted 27 July 2010 - 05:00 PM

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Why would you even want to crawl under the car for an oil only change, when you can use this oil vac? That's what I just got. Haven't used it yet.
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Edited by Goodwood, 27 July 2010 - 05:02 PM.



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Michelin PSS 285/35/20
Tires x4 on 2012 OEM wheels


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#3 GreGTR Posted 27 July 2010 - 11:01 PM

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View PostGoodwood, on Jul 27 2010, 05:00 PM, said:

Why would you even want to crawl under the car for an oil only change, when you can use this oil vac? That's what I just got. Haven't used it yet.
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Others have also posted about this one:

http://www.amazon.co...F...8737&sr=8-2


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Schroth 4-Point ASM; HKS DCT cooler; Boost Logic Oil Cooler; Cobb Intake; ID 1000 inject.
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#4 35R Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:54 AM

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err, what about changing the filter?



#5 Goodwood Posted 28 July 2010 - 05:37 AM

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Like 1Day, I just changed my oil and filter very recently, but have a couple track HOT days on it, so this time around I don't think it's necessary to change the filter.


09 GT-R Ti/Black

Greddy FMIC, Forge DCT Cooler, Cobb SF Intakes, Cobb Swaybars

SSP Catless Downpipes, Cobb Catted Midpipe, 5Zigen SP Tune Catback

AP Racing J-Hook Rotors, Endless MX72 Pads, Stillen SS Brake Lines

Michelin PSS 285/35/20
Tires x4 on 2012 OEM wheels


My Pbase Photo Gallery

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#6 jimmyp Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:29 AM

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I vac mine out at 3000 miles no filter then at 6000 I do filter and oil from bottom, after the first time its easy.


2010 GL350 Bluetech
2009 GTR 9.99 135mph stock turbos

#7 descartesfool Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:18 AM

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You need two normal jacks and two jack stands. Car must be on solid level pavement, parking brake applied.

1. Jack up car from one side at front side jack point as high as jack will go. Both tires on one side off the ground.

2. Place second jack under middle jack point and raise it up until it just starts to lift middle of car.

3. Very carefully and very slowly lower side jack until all weight is taken by the middle jack. Rear tire lowers to ground with both front tires off the ground. This is the tricky part, so go slowly.

4. Raise middle jack to max.

5. Remove side jack and place two jack stands under front side jack points.

6. Lower middle jack until car rests on jack stands and remove middle jack.

7. Do your work to change oil and filter and reverse procedure above to get car back on the ground.

Once you've done it the first time, it will get easier. Or buy a special jack that allows you to raise car from middle jack point directly.



#8 White_turbo Posted 28 July 2010 - 12:05 PM

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View Postdescartesfool, on Jul 28 2010, 12:18 PM, said:

Or buy a special jack that allows you to raise car from middle jack point directly.

Don't really think such a jack exits yet.  I haven't seen any portable jacks that aren't over 50lbs that can do that yet.



#9 35R Posted 28 July 2010 - 02:57 PM

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View PostWhite_turbo, on Jul 29 2010, 04:05 AM, said:

Don't really think such a jack exits yet.  I haven't seen any portable jacks that aren't over 50lbs that can do that yet.

or you could buy some $20 mini ramps:

http://www.forrestfa...ds/pics/001.jpg

then use any regular jack:

http://www.forrestfa...ds/pics/003.jpg

I tried the two jack method and it was awkward and a bit dangerous to be frank



#10 descartesfool Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:45 PM

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Are those ramps high enough to get a regular jack in from the front?



#11 Go!Zilla Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:25 PM

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The hint is "rear tires on wood blocks":
http://www.nagtroc.o...=...st&p=380083
The wooden blocks in theory help in two ways:
1) lessen the chance of the GT-R teetering on the front jack stand while trying to jack using the diagonally opposing rear jack point (the 1st wooden block stabilizes the rear)
2) once the 2nd jack stand is on the front jack point, the 2nd wooden block on rear can help elevate the back to then more easily use the central lift point in the rear
You can use something other than wooden blocks but make sure it is strong and can bear the weight without splitting or deforming.

Other tips mentioned here:
http://www.nagtroc.o...=...st&p=456198



#12 35R Posted 28 July 2010 - 11:33 PM

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View Postdescartesfool, on Jul 29 2010, 08:45 AM, said:

Are those ramps high enough to get a regular jack in from the front?

Of course.  It's the easiest and safest way.  you can also use the ramps for other things, get some they are very handy (and cheap!).



#13 jonnyt5050 Posted 06 September 2010 - 09:04 PM

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I managed to get car up for oil change with 1 jack and 2 jack stands.

Notes:
(I first put front tires up on small 2.5" ramps so that the jack would fit underneath the car).
(I used the reverselogic jack tool)

1.  Place jack on passenger rear position.  jack as high as it will go.

2.  Place jack stand under passenger forward position.

3.  Slowly release jack down so car is resting on jack stand.  (both passenger side tires are now off the ground.

4.  Move jack from passenger rear position to the center forward jack point.  

5.  Jack as high as car will go.

6.  Place 2nd jack stand under driver forward jack position.

7.  Slowly lower jack from forward center position and remove from area.

8.  Work on car / change oil / get greasy/ etc.

9.  place jack under center forward position.  jack as high as possible.

10.  remove drivers side jack stand.

11.  slowly lower jack so that car is solely on the front passenger side jack stand.

12.  move jack from front center position to passenger rear jack position.

13.  Jack as high as needed to get last jack stand off of the car.

14.  slowly lower jack (making sure the wheels when lowered will end up back on the mini ramps.)

15.  Put in new oil (according to Nissan:  add 5.25 quarts if you left the oil filter in.  5.75 quarts if you changed the filter).


2009 SuperSilver

Mods
====
Power: Greddy Ti 80mm exhaust, HKS Resonated Midpipe, Greddy Type 6 FMIC, HKS Intercooler Pipes, HKS SSQV BOV, HKS EVC 6, Jotech tune (496 awhp w/91 Octane)
Cooling: HKS DCT Cooler, Boost Logic Oil Cooler, Spec-V coolant tank, Evans NPG+ Fluid
Handling: Stillen Swaybars, JRZ RS Pro Silents (750lb/600lb)
Braking: AP J-Hook rotors, Forged Perf. SS brake lines, Endless MX72 pads
Wheels: Street: 20" Rays RGT57 Gram Lights w/Dunlop All-season / Track: 19" Volk RE30s w/Toyo R888s
Track accessories: Bell GT2 helmet, Moonface towhook, GoPro HD camera, Harry's Laptimer iPhone App, Sparco 4 point harness

#14 Socalaviator Posted 18 October 2011 - 04:28 PM

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Where are all the jack points on the GTR located? I only am aware of 4? Two front (left and right)and two rear jack points (left and right)


2011 GTR

AAM DPs, HKS resonated Mid-Pipe, Stillen Cat-Back Exhaust, 3" Intakes, 2012 Inlet Pipes, ID1000cc injectors, SIR 265 Fuel Pumps, 91oct and E85 Pro Tune by Tim Bailey @ Cobb SoCal. 606whp / 616 wtorque @19Psi peak. E85

Other Rides:
2006 Nissan 350Z- Hi Power Dual Exhaust
2003 Honda CBR 954- Custom Stainless Yosimura exhaust/headers, exhaust valve delete, KnN Air Filter, Velocity Stacks, Catalyst Reaction Front Forks and Rear shock, steering damper, Power Commander, 91 oct dyno tune- 143 whp

#15 NickTO Posted 18 October 2011 - 04:32 PM

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:)

Edited by NickTO, 18 September 2013 - 11:25 PM.



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#16 Storm Posted 19 October 2011 - 02:06 AM

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View PostSocalaviator, on 18 October 2011 - 04:28 PM, said:

Where are all the jack points on the GTR located? I only am aware of 4? Two front (left and right)and two rear jack points (left and right)

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#17 Socalaviator Posted 19 October 2011 - 09:57 AM

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wow I learn something new everyday on this forum! Thank You Storm! Will most jacks fit on the center jack points without damaging the underpanels?


2011 GTR

AAM DPs, HKS resonated Mid-Pipe, Stillen Cat-Back Exhaust, 3" Intakes, 2012 Inlet Pipes, ID1000cc injectors, SIR 265 Fuel Pumps, 91oct and E85 Pro Tune by Tim Bailey @ Cobb SoCal. 606whp / 616 wtorque @19Psi peak. E85

Other Rides:
2006 Nissan 350Z- Hi Power Dual Exhaust
2003 Honda CBR 954- Custom Stainless Yosimura exhaust/headers, exhaust valve delete, KnN Air Filter, Velocity Stacks, Catalyst Reaction Front Forks and Rear shock, steering damper, Power Commander, 91 oct dyno tune- 143 whp

#18 Storm Posted 19 October 2011 - 11:19 AM

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View PostSocalaviator, on 19 October 2011 - 09:57 AM, said:

wow I learn something new everyday on this forum! Thank You Storm! Will most jacks fit on the center jack points without damaging the underpanels?

You are welcome :)


I use a long reach low profile 3 ton jack to lift mine which fits under the rear OK but the front needs to be lifted first with ramps/wedges to allow access to the lifting point, I threw some ramps together out of some old bits of wood I had lying around.



#19 Socalaviator Posted 19 October 2011 - 11:46 AM

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Cool sounds good! Now that I know the center jack points exist my future plans to do maintenance myself should be much easier. What type of jack do you use?


2011 GTR

AAM DPs, HKS resonated Mid-Pipe, Stillen Cat-Back Exhaust, 3" Intakes, 2012 Inlet Pipes, ID1000cc injectors, SIR 265 Fuel Pumps, 91oct and E85 Pro Tune by Tim Bailey @ Cobb SoCal. 606whp / 616 wtorque @19Psi peak. E85

Other Rides:
2006 Nissan 350Z- Hi Power Dual Exhaust
2003 Honda CBR 954- Custom Stainless Yosimura exhaust/headers, exhaust valve delete, KnN Air Filter, Velocity Stacks, Catalyst Reaction Front Forks and Rear shock, steering damper, Power Commander, 91 oct dyno tune- 143 whp

#20 Storm Posted 19 October 2011 - 04:29 PM

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View PostSocalaviator, on 19 October 2011 - 11:46 AM, said:

Cool sounds good! Now that I know the center jack points exist my future plans to do maintenance myself should be much easier. What type of jack do you use?
The 3.5 Ton steel one on this page: http://arcanusa.com/lifting.html I would have gone Aluminium but could not find a stockist at the time in the UK.

The one I have it good but VERY heavy, having said that if you don't have to lift it out of storage each tme to use it I guess it does not really matter.

Don't forget to use axle stands as well!

Edited by Storm, 19 October 2011 - 04:30 PM.





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