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#81 Optherion Posted 02 June 2011 - 08:40 AM

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xwing, the $300 titanium inlet pipes are nearly 1/4 the price of the top secret ones. I dont really care that they are titanium. You cant even see them once installed anyways. The price difference is what makes the install justifiable to me. It is going to be a bitch and a long install. You are right though and I would prefer aluminum over the welds in titanium. But in truth, I think the horsepower gains and hassle of tearing down a car and labor of install dont make them worth it at the price of the aluminum models. I am curious to see the performance gains, if any from this pipe. I still think it will be negligible.

The upper titanium intercooler pipe is mostly dress up :) But lets not even get started on those buy carbon fiber battery covers, and chromed coolant reservoirs.

Edited by Optherion, 02 June 2011 - 11:05 AM.




#82 domino_z Posted 02 June 2011 - 09:37 AM

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View PostOptherion, on Jun 3 2011, 12:40 AM, said:

The upper titanium intercooler pipe is mostly dress up :) But lets not even get started on those buy carbon fiber battery covers, and chromed coolant reservoirs.

what's the power gain at the treads on a HKS oil cap....

the Chinese Ti pipes are def good value. Though id still prefer an inlet pipe without all the welds disturbing airflow. The reason I went top secret was because my intentions are to do a top secret engine build with them high flowing my oem turbos, so want to keep it at all TS under the hood

Edited by domino_z, 02 June 2011 - 09:43 AM.



2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#83 SpecG Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:58 PM

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View Postxwing, on Jun 2 2011, 06:53 PM, said:

and heard the guy with the S2000 with a turbo kit saying how he was CONSIDERING going up a whole ONE-HALF PSI of boost.  We looked at each other...buddy says to me "If I EVER talk about a HALF PSI of boost like it's THAT important, SHOOT ME!"  :irock:

Its called trimming.. some people get satisfied with attention to details some dont.. and its these things that distinguish A and A+ stuff
As for me anything that takes as little effort as pushing a few buttons i would tune and trim it to perfection

Edited by SpecG, 09 June 2011 - 12:02 AM.



2009 R35 GTR SpecG
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Curb Weight >> 1662kg / 3664lbs


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Power >> Motec M1 / JUN Surge Tank / JUN Throttle Body / JUN EX Head / HKS GTX800 / HKS GT1000 IC / Mahle Pistons / Cosworth Rods / Akrapovic Evo / Koyorad
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#84 domino_z Posted 09 June 2011 - 02:39 AM

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xwing's mate is superfly


2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#85 domino_z Posted 10 June 2011 - 11:00 PM

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i was set get this install done today, and planned to have had it done by midday

woke up early, went to my mates workshop, and as soon as i started dismantling the right side bov pipe and airbox and i got a look at how far down those inlet bolts are i packed it in and put everything back together

definitely a job for a full day, and not a few hours on a sat morning

the bolts i can get to with patience and the right tools, but more worrying is connecting all the hoses to the inlets

the left side will need the exhaust heat shield removed, and the right side is going to be the real knuckle buster with the ac lines + solenoid in the way

ill be going back to my mates workshop during the week to give it a proper go with a whole 8 hours ahead of me

these are the instructions im using

http://www.speedfors...miumSuction.pdf

Edited by domino_z, 10 June 2011 - 11:07 PM.



2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#86 Dave@GotboostPerformance Posted 14 June 2011 - 03:04 PM

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View Postdomino_z, on Jun 10 2011, 10:00 PM, said:

i was set get this install done today, and planned to have had it done by midday

woke up early, went to my mates workshop, and as soon as i started dismantling the right side bov pipe and airbox and i got a look at how far down those inlet bolts are i packed it in and put everything back together

definitely a job for a full day, and not a few hours on a sat morning

the bolts i can get to with patience and the right tools, but more worrying is connecting all the hoses to the inlets

the left side will need the exhaust heat shield removed, and the right side is going to be the real knuckle buster with the ac lines + solenoid in the way

ill be going back to my mates workshop during the week to give it a proper go with a whole 8 hours ahead of me

these are the instructions im using

http://www.speedfors...miumSuction.pdf

I can give you a few tips for changing them out. This is after whatever air intake system you are using has been removed.

1. Remove the upper I/C pipes and bovs so you have better access. Don't try to remove heat shields as this will be of no benefit.

2. On the left side, remove the boost solenoid lines from the solenoid. Leave the solenoid attached to the inlet pipe. It will come out with the inlet pipe assembly.

3. Left side you can get a long extension snaked through right above the a/c compressor to get the upper nut on the inlet pipe flange. A mirror is needed to line it up but it really isn't that hard once you get the socket with long extension attached in the area.

4. Leave the steel vacuum tube attached to both the left and right side inlet pipes attached to the pipes, only removing the line from the valve cover to them.

5. On the right side inlet pipe, the upper flange bolt can be accessed in the same fashion as the left, only removing the power steering pump makes the job 99X easier. Don't remove the lines, just the pump bolts to the mounting bracket.

6. Both bottom inlet pipe flange nuts can be accessed from the bottom of the car, just need to take the two rear panels off like when you change your oil.

7. Re-install in reverse order, providing the vendor's pipe you are using has all the necessary fittings, tabs and mounting locations.

8. Go to the first aid kit and bandage all your bark removal spots....lol.

Edited by Dave@GotboostPerformance, 30 November 2011 - 12:57 AM.



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#87 domino_z Posted 14 June 2011 - 04:39 PM

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Thanks for the info

I was planning to drop the front undertray to see if I could access the bolts under the car, or maybe even through the wheel arch lining when removed

Even easier than to remove the oil trap doors

Good tip on leaving the solenoid on the pipe. Nothing needs to be re-pressurized though?

Edited by domino_z, 14 June 2011 - 04:39 PM.



2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#88 Dave@GotboostPerformance Posted 14 June 2011 - 05:47 PM

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View Postdomino_z, on Jun 14 2011, 03:39 PM, said:

Thanks for the info

I was planning to drop the front undertray to see if I could access the bolts under the car, or maybe even through the wheel arch lining when removed

Even easier than to remove the oil trap doors

Good tip on leaving the solenoid on the pipe. Nothing needs to be re-pressurized though?

The solenoid I'm referring to is for boost actuators and is just vacuum lines.......no a/c or anything like that.

You only need to drop the 2 panels behind the front undertray/spoiler to access the lower flange bolts. The bottom flange bolts, (lower one on each turbo inlet pipe), is the only thing you will remove from underneath the car. Taking the front off would be of no use.


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Follow My Build Here: http://www.nagtroc.o...he-gbp-900-kit/

Innovative GT-R products at their finest

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#89 domino_z Posted 14 June 2011 - 05:59 PM

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I'm all set to do this tomorrow

I'll make sure I eat my wheeties in the morning

Edited by domino_z, 14 June 2011 - 06:00 PM.



2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#90 domino_z Posted 16 June 2011 - 12:03 AM

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installing turbo inlet pipes from inside the engine bay or under the car.....

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put my Top Secret intakes on only, and leaving the inlets for when the engine is out for TS's turbos

Edited by domino_z, 19 June 2011 - 12:00 AM.



2011 R35 (Aus spec) - 750awhp/600ftlb, FBO E85, WR600 ball bearing turbos, ported/polished oem manifold, Dodson Super Stock clutches + Jacks welded baskets, built and tuned by Willall Racing

#91 Roll Cancel Posted 16 June 2011 - 12:17 AM

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View Postdomino_z, on Jun 14 2011, 04:59 PM, said:

I'm all set to do this tomorrow

I'll make sure I eat my wheeties in the morning

Looking forward to this. Seems like a great alternative, expense wise.



#92 Josh Posted 28 June 2011 - 02:02 AM

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I received my 2012 suction pipes today from Nissan. They came out to roughly $500 for the pair. The opening on the side that bolts to the turbo with the two bolt flange is approximately 51mm, which appears to be almost exactly the same size gotboost measured for the inlet on the turbo housing. The opening on the intake box side is 55mm, so there is a gradual taper from the intakes to the turbos. Given how well these match up, if you are running the factory turbo housings, it seems highly unlikely that any of the aftermarket suction pipe options would offer any benefit at all over the $500 per pair 2012 pipes.

Edited by Josh, 28 June 2011 - 02:03 AM.



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#93 Alias Posted 29 June 2011 - 07:46 AM

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JOSH - Please keep us updated on progress and initial thoughts.

Can you confirm for definite the part codes you used to order from Nissan.

Thanks



#94 Josh Posted 29 June 2011 - 03:34 PM

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View PostAlias, on Jun 29 2011, 09:46 AM, said:

JOSH - Please keep us updated on progress and initial thoughts.

Can you confirm for definite the part codes you used to order from Nissan.

Thanks





14460 KB50A
14460 KB50B


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#95 Alias Posted 29 June 2011 - 04:02 PM

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Thanks Josh. Guess what in the UK these retail at 1500!!!! Cant believe how cheap you guys are getting them for in the US. In the UK Nissan are really taking the p*ss :(



#96 Dave@GotboostPerformance Posted 29 June 2011 - 05:11 PM

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Update on the inlet pipes..........at first they were quoted as $530.00 each but they are in fact that price for the pair, as Josh has found out. At that price point I think the 2012 pipes are the logical choice for someone that wants to upgrade their inlet pipes. I just ordered mine for $212.85 each with my wholesale account so at $424.00 for the pair I think this is one area where the GT-R tax is missing.

I am glad I haven't pursued producing aftermarket pipes yet.......after finding how reasonable the Nissan pipes are I don't think there would be a market for them, considering even the aftermarket inlet pipes are about the same dimensions as the 2012 OEM ones.

I am going to show you guys real world results on if these 2012 pipes are indeed worhty of the hassle of installation. I will be performing a baseline dyno run before install, and an after dyno run once the new inlets are on the car.

Remember that this mod is only for someone trying to push the envelope on stock turbos.......someone whose running E85 etc. Otherwise these pipes are for the upgraded turbo cars. I'm willing to bet that there is going to be an increase in airflow and power on a car set-up such as mine though.


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#97 Alias Posted 30 June 2011 - 02:43 AM

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With the MY12 inlets would you need to upgrade MAF and injectors? I know this is a must with traditional aftermarket cone filter intakes, however im looking to use these enlarged inlets whilst retaining panel filters. Thoughts?

By the way im looking to dodge the UK GTR tax by buying these from GTR-R. It sounds as though their is a waiting time of 35-40 days.



#98 Josh Posted 01 July 2011 - 12:07 AM

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View PostAlias, on Jun 30 2011, 04:43 AM, said:

With the MY12 inlets would you need to upgrade MAF and injectors? I know this is a must with traditional aftermarket cone filter intakes, however im looking to use these enlarged inlets whilst retaining panel filters. Thoughts?

By the way im looking to dodge the UK GTR tax by buying these from GTR-R. It sounds as though their is a waiting time of 35-40 days.


No, you should be fine.  I will be doing something similar.

It took about 3 weeks to get mine from Nissan.  There is still a bit of a back log getting certain items from Japan.

Edited by Josh, 01 July 2011 - 12:09 AM.



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#99 Josh Posted 14 July 2011 - 05:29 PM

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I picked up the car today after having the 2012 pipes put in. I had them installed along with a set of AMS catless downpipes, so I can't comment much on their overall performance gain. However, with just a visual inspection the 2012 pipes are quite visibly larger and less restrictive than the 45mm pipes on there prior. In fact, there was actually an outline on the flange of the old pipes where it had been blocking the mouth of the turbo inlets.  I would say if you are doing a full bolt-on setup, the 2012 pipes are a logical choice to maximize your setup.
The combination of those two modifications made a very noticable difference in turbo response and top end power. Next up is a custom e-tune to bring it all together.

Edited by Josh, 14 July 2011 - 05:30 PM.



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#100 Dave@GotboostPerformance Posted 26 July 2011 - 01:30 AM

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Got my 2012 inlet pipes a couple days ago and decided that they could use a little "cleaning up" with regards to the rough casting surface on the inside so I went to town with my porting tools.

Original surface
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Original finish versus ported on right
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Probably won't make much of a difference but every little bit helps, lol.


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