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How to Change Transmission/Differential DIY


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#1 MOBOOST

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Posted 09 August 2019 - 10:36 AM

Hey guys,

 

Made a quick video on how to change the trans/diff fluid.

 

Hope this helps, subscribe to stay tuned to more GTR DIY videos ill be making.

 

Appreciate it all!

 


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#2 Baccams

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Posted 11 August 2019 - 08:15 PM

Thanks for sharing!

#3 Boostd4

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 02:07 PM

Nice vid, thanks for sharing.  Curious, any issues with getting the rear diff drain bolt off?  Mine seized last time I changed the fluid.


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#4 hunter

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Posted 12 August 2019 - 04:32 PM

Yes, lots of dealer mark up................That's why we don't use the dealer for service..........


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#5 Zeke1902

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 07:35 AM

Boostd4 I did mine recently. I recommend a small torque wrench to get it loose if it's seized up. You should replace the front and rear drain bolts anyway per service manual. Heat can cause them to seize up overtime if your dealer hasn't done that for you already.

Edited by Zeke1902, 13 August 2019 - 07:54 AM.


#6 Boostd4

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Posted 13 August 2019 - 08:32 AM

Boostd4 I did mine recently. I recommend a small torque wrench to get it loose if it's seized up. You should replace the front and rear drain bolts anyway per service manual. Heat can cause them to seize up overtime if your dealer hasn't done that for you already.

 

I did end up replacing the drain bolt as I had to get creative removing the old plug.  I suspect that heat and a little too much torque from the previous service caused it 


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Tim Bailey Flex Fuel e-Tune

#7 MOBOOST

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Posted 19 November 2019 - 12:13 PM

 

I did end up replacing the drain bolt as I had to get creative removing the old plug.  I suspect that heat and a little too much torque from the previous service caused it 

 

Yeah I actually stripped my rear diff drain bolt but luckily I visited T1 and they just gave me one haha. 


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#8 Gracele2017

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Posted 12 September 2020 - 10:53 AM

Thank you for sharing. Save me a lot of $$$.

#9 kensiee1

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 02:50 PM

Yes, lots of dealer mark up................That's why we don't use the dealer for service..........


Edited by Gdzilla_, 23 January 2021 - 02:18 PM.


#10 NT-GTR

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Posted 17 January 2021 - 09:32 PM

Hey guys,

 

Made a quick video on how to change the trans/diff fluid.

 

Hope this helps, subscribe to stay tuned to more GTR DIY videos ill be making.

 

Appreciate it all!

 

I wanted to clarify a few things that were mentioned in the video.

 

1. The 2009 GT-R owner's manual recommends that the transmission and differential fluids are changed every 18,000 miles, not 20,000 as the presenter states. For the DBA models, Nissan did increase the service interval to every 36,000 miles but there still definitely isn't a consensus among owners on whether it's fine to wait this long to change the fluid or not, contrary to what the presenter seems to imply.

 

2. You do not need to change your transmission fluid simply due to it heating up to over 200°F. In normal street driving, your transmission fluid will very likely reach between 185 to 195°F and, if tracking your car, your transmission fluid will easily reach temperatures of 200+°F. Nissan recommends changing the transmission fluid based on temperature at the following intervals:

  • When the oil temperature stays below 248°F (120°C) while driving- Change transmission oil at the same interval as Schedule 1 and 2 in the “9. Maintenance and schedules” section of this manual. 
  • When the oil temperature reaches between 248°F (120°C) and 284°F (140°C) while driving- Change transmission oil every 3,000 miles (5,000 km). 
  • When the oil temperature exceeds 284°F (140°C) while driving- Change both transmission oil and differential oil immediately after stopping. Differential oil temperature usually increases concurrently.

3. For the differential, the presenter says that you need one quart of fluid for the front and one quart for the rear- this is debatable. Up until around 2014, the procedure for filling the differentials was to fill each one up until fluid ran out of the fill hole (approximately .69 quarts for the front and 1.64 quarts for the rear). In short, you needed three of the one liter (1.057 quart) bottles of differential fluid total in order to complete the service. However, around 2014, Nissan changed its fill procedure. You were still required to fill both differentials until fluid ran out of the fill hole but the added step was that you were supposed to finish by draining .2 liters (.21 quarts) from the rear differential. If you follow this new procedure, then you would only need two of the one liter bottles of differential fluid total. However, most people still use the original "fill until it runs out" method, as it is easier and ensures that your rear differential is well lubricated.

 

4. The title of the video is "Transmission & Differential Fluid Flush." The presenter states that only 7 quarts of transmission fluid are needed and is only shown draining the fluid through the drain hole. The issue is that the quantities stated and process shown are for a transmission drain and refill, not a flush. A flush would involve dropping the transmission pan, which would remove an additional two to three quarts from the transmission. So, to clarify, if you'll only be performing a drain and refill, which is what the presenter demonstrates, then you'll only need 7 quarts of fluid. If you'll be doing a true "flush" of the transmission, then you'll need 10 liters (10.57 quarts) of transmission fluid.

 

5. The "Transmission/Differential Re-Learn Procedure" shown is incorrect.

For CBAs (2009-11), the procedure is as follows:

1. Install the filler plug and drain plug.

2. Start the engine and select the M range.

3. With depressing the brake pedal, shift the paddle shifter to the N range → M range, 1st gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 2nd gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 1st gear → N range at idle.

4. Stop the engine.

5. Remove the filler plug and drain plug, and then fill with the transmission oil until it leaks from the drain hole.

6. Install the filler plug and drain plug.

7. Install the heat insulator.

8 Start the engine and run it at idle. Run the engine until the oil temperature reaches 50°C (122°F) while checking TRANSMISSION FLUID TEMPERATURE on the car’s Multi-Function Display screen.

9. With depressing the brake pedal, shift the paddle shifter to the N range → M range, 1st gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 2nd gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 1st gear → N range at idle.

10. Stop the engine and wait for 5 minutes. PERFORM THE NEXT STEP WITHIN 25 MINUTES!

11. Remove the drain plug. Install the NEW drain plug when the transmission oil begins to drip (1 drop/1 second).

 

For DBAs (2012+) the procedure is as follows:

1. Install the filler plug and drain plug.

2. Start engine with shift position in P range and keep it until transmission system check is complete.

3. With depressing the brake pedal, shift the selectro lever to A range (wait for 5 seconds) → N range (wait for 5 seconds) → R range (wait for 5 seconds) → P range.

4. Stop the engine.

5. Remove the filler plug and drain plug, and then fill with the transmission oil until it leaks from the drain hole.

6. Install the filler plug and drain plug.

7. Install the heat insulator.

8. Start the engine and run it at idle. Run the engine until the oil temperature reaches 50°C (122°F) while checking FLUID TEMP in “DATA MONITOR” of CONSULT.

9. With depressing the brake pedal, shift the selectro lever to A range (wait for 5 seconds) → N range (wait for 5 seconds) → R range (wait for 5 seconds) → P range.

10. Stop the engine and wait for 5 minutes.

11. Remove the drain plug. Install the drain plug when the transmission oil begins to drip (1 drop/1 second).

CAUTION: • Perform from step 10 to step 11 within 25 minutes

 

If you read through both, you'll notice that the main difference is the shifting into 2nd gear step. On DBAs (or even CBAs with more recent versions of launch control or DBA transmissions), the ability to shift into 2nd gear from a stop was removed. As a result, some owners, like the presenter, have resorted to accelerating their cars in order to enable their transmissions to shift into 2nd gear. Not only is it dangerous to accelerate a vehicle that is on jack stands but this act could also cause potential harm to driveline components. In short, if you're unable to shift your car into 2nd gear from a standstill, please just use the DBA produce posted above.


Edited by NT-GTR, 17 January 2021 - 09:35 PM.

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#11 Geno88

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Posted 19 January 2021 - 02:13 PM

I'm gonna tell you what I saw, and I wont tell you the shop or the owner, but here goes. But those who believe, great, for those who wont, great.

 

This shop drained all the fluid from the DCT. Waited quite a bit to ensure it's as dry as possible. Then, PUMPED IN 10 Quarts of OEM Nissan fluid and called it a day. Afterwards, I asked, hey, isn't there a sequence of starting the car, shifting the trans, etc...........nope. I went with the owner of this GTR to the track the next day and lo and behold, the car ran PERFECTLY.

 

Again, believe or not, there you go.......

 

Incidentally, this is NOT meant to discredit any of the technical posts listed above. They are probably correct. So, NO insult meant.


Edited by Geno88, 19 January 2021 - 02:14 PM.

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#12 NT-GTR

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 05:31 PM

I'm gonna tell you what I saw, and I wont tell you the shop or the owner, but here goes. But those who believe, great, for those who wont, great.

 

This shop drained all the fluid from the DCT. Waited quite a bit to ensure it's as dry as possible. Then, PUMPED IN 10 Quarts of OEM Nissan fluid and called it a day. Afterwards, I asked, hey, isn't there a sequence of starting the car, shifting the trans, etc...........nope. I went with the owner of this GTR to the track the next day and lo and behold, the car ran PERFECTLY.

 

Again, believe or not, there you go.......

 

Incidentally, this is NOT meant to discredit any of the technical posts listed above. They are probably correct. So, NO insult meant.

I definitely believe it and I'm sure that everything was fine as you stated. From my experience, when doing a true flush (dropping the pan, opening up the line filter, etc.) and following the refill instructions, I typically use just under 10 liters of fluid (10.57 quarts). Keeping this in mind, I'm not surprised that the owner that you mentioned didn't have any issues by just pumping in 10 quarts and not going through the multi-step refill process. I personally like doing things by the book but I can understand how others would prefer a simpler method.

 

I guess my main point is that everyone should ensure that they are putting enough fluid into their transmissions. If given the choice, it's always better to have too much fluid than not enough. Worse case scenario with overfilling the transmission is that you will get foaming but the GR6 does have an overflow valve and breather port, so, realistically, the transmission should rid itself of excessive amounts of fluid.

 

In short, I'd recommend for owners to follow the correct steps for filling their transmissions but, if you don't, please make sure to at least put 10 to 12 liters in to be safe.


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#13 Geno88

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Posted 20 January 2021 - 06:33 PM

I definitely believe it and I'm sure that everything was fine as you stated. From my experience, when doing a true flush (dropping the pan, opening up the line filter, etc.) and following the refill instructions, I typically use just under 10 liters of fluid (10.57 quarts). Keeping this in mind, I'm not surprised that the owner that you mentioned didn't have any issues by just pumping in 10 quarts and not going through the multi-step refill process. I personally like doing things by the book but I can understand how others would prefer a simpler method.

 

I guess my main point is that everyone should ensure that they are putting enough fluid into their transmissions. If given the choice, it's always better to have too much fluid than not enough. Worse case scenario with overfilling the transmission is that you will get foaming but the GR6 does have an overflow valve and breather port, so, realistically, the transmission should rid itself of excessive amounts of fluid.

 

In short, I'd recommend for owners to follow the correct steps for filling their transmissions but, if you don't, please make sure to at least put 10 to 12 liters in to be saf

perfect.


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#14 Godzilla121115

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Posted 05 April 2021 - 10:01 PM

Real quick... Obviously no way to check tranny fluid levels using a dip stick cause it doesn't have one.

But have you all learned any other way to find out when the tranny oil is due? Does the temp work as an indicator?

Without any service records. Just wondering

#15 Gdzilla_

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 06:26 PM

One can’t rely on just the oil temps. 


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#16 NT-GTR

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Posted 06 April 2021 - 08:48 PM

Real quick... Obviously no way to check tranny fluid levels using a dip stick cause it doesn't have one.

But have you all learned any other way to find out when the tranny oil is due? Does the temp work as an indicator?

Without any service records. Just wondering

 

If seems that you're asking two separate question. To address the first that concerns checking fluid levels, this can be achieved by completing the following steps:

 

For CBA model

1. Start the engine and run it at idle. Run the engine until the oil temperature reaches 50°C (122°F) while checking the fluid transmission temperature on your multi-function display.

2. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the paddle shifter to the N range → M range, 1st gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 2nd gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 1st gear → N range at idle.

3. Stop the engine and wait for 5 minutes. PERFORM THE NEXT STEP WITHIN 25 MINUTES!

4. Remove the drain plug. If the transmission oil drips out at 1 drop/1 second, then your transmission should be sufficiently full of fluid. If transmission fluid does not drip out of the drain hole, then your transmission is underfilled.

 

For DBA model

1. Start the engine and run it at idle. Run the engine until the oil temperature reaches 50°C (122°F) while checking the fluid transmission temperature on your multi-function display.

2. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the selectro lever to A range (wait for 5 seconds) → N range (wait for 5 seconds) → R range (wait for 5 seconds) → P range.

3. Stop the engine and wait for 5 minutes. PERFORM THE NEXT STEP WITHIN 25 MINUTES!

4. Remove the drain plug. If the transmission oil drips out at 1 drop/1 second, then your transmission should be sufficiently full of fluid. If transmission fluid does not drip out of the drain hole, then your transmission is underfilled.

 

As for determining when the transmission oil is due for replacement, as Gdzilla_ referenced, there isn't a reliable method to do so. If you're in doubt, its always best to change it if for nothing else than your own peace of mind. If you'd prefer to not use the OEM fluid, many have used Motul Mutli DCTF and Pentosin FFL-4 as quality alternatives that are much more affordable.


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#17 Wicked

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Posted 07 April 2021 - 08:52 AM

Some good info in this thread. Thanks.


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