Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Brake Juddering Under Heavy Braking - RB Rotors & Endless Pads


  • Please log in to reply
7 replies to this topic

#1 M3AP1

M3AP1

    GTRLIFE Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 34 posts
  • Location:Bay Area, CA

Posted 27 July 2020 - 08:56 PM

Unsure if I should post it here or under the track section but was hoping someone had some insight and past experience. 

 

I recently replaced my stock OEM rotors due to cracks surrounding the drilled holes with Racing Brakes front rotors. I went with RB due to the positive feedback on the forums. 
They were installed correctly and bedded properly on the race track following RB's bedding procedures. 

 

Issue I am having now is that when the rotors get warm/hot, my steering wheel shakes when I apply the brake pedal. When the rotors are cool, there is no juddering. The rotors were put on prior to my Laguna Seca track day last Saturday so they have a total of four 15 minute sessions. I would say I have to fight the steering wheel to make sure it is pointed in the direction I want the car to travel. I'm fairly confident using N05U pads but not with this rotor to pad set up. 

Has anyone ran into this issue before under extreme braking? If so, what was the fix to it? 
My goal is to have a non-juddering steering wheel under heavy braking. My past track car had Performance Friction BBKs all around and never ran into this issue. 

 

Brake Set up: 

Racing Brake 2-Piece Replacement Slotted Front Rotors

Endless N05U Brake Pads 

Stoptech SS Brake Lines

Castrol SRF Brake Fluid

 

Link to my track day for reference: 

https://www.youtube....h?v=-Xhc2TM6JK8

Attached Thumbnails

  • Brake rotors.jpg

Edited by M3AP1, 27 July 2020 - 08:57 PM.


#2 Gdzilla_

Gdzilla_

    Marketplace Moderator

  • Site Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 4705 posts
  • Location:Alberta

Posted 27 July 2020 - 09:07 PM

Right here is perfect

Current Stable:
2009 R35 Premium Edition 'GDZILLA' / Ivory Pearl / Ebony / brought home Sept. 8th 2008 / weekend warrior
2006 Solstice 'EMILEY' / Olympic White / Ebony on Suede / for those 'Top Down' summer days
2014 GMC All Terrain Sierra 4x4 'C2SKYE' / Summit White / Ebony Faux Carbon Fiber / trailer hauler
1999 Vulcan Nomad 'TAZ' / Pearl Boulogne / Candy Arsenate Green / quick weekend get-a-ways
2008 Vulcan Classic LT 'PEARL' / Crystal Pearl White / Metallic Titanium / quick weekend get-a-ways for the wife
2019 Tucson Ultimate AWD 'POLRCUB' / Winter White / Ebony on Beige / Wife's daily driver
'EMILEYII' / Solstice battery powered ride on car / White / daily driver for my daughter
'GDZILLAII' / R35 GTR battery powered ride on car / White / weekend warrior for my daughter
1999 R34 Gtt Skyline / White / Ebony / Sold

 

 


#3 Wicked

Wicked

    R35 Owner

  • Site Moderator
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 8543 posts
  • Location:Inside Your Head

Posted 28 July 2020 - 08:13 AM

Have you called RB?


Redemption 2.0 Tuned by Ben Linney = Smooth as Fawk!!
Switzer 90mmSS Exhaust = Loud as Fawk!!


#4 Warren-RB

Warren-RB

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 72 posts

Posted 28 July 2020 - 12:39 PM

Based on his rotor picture, an email was just responded with our assessment and recommendation.

 

Your rotor pics show a substantial amount of pad deposits onto the rotors which indicates the pad was incapable of dealing with the heat.
Here is a thread discussing the Abnormal Pad Deposit and suggested remedy - Clean the rotor and replace the pads.
 
 
Above pad deposit thread was published since 2006 more than 14 years ago, and has helped thousands of track enthusiasts to better understand the same ill effect of a "rotor vibration" but with two distinctly different causes between a "Warped Rotor" and "Rotor with Pad Deposit"


#5 colo_evo

colo_evo

    R33 Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 602 posts

Posted 28 July 2020 - 01:09 PM


Based on his rotor picture, an email was just responded with our assessment and recommendation.
 

Your rotor pics show a substantial amount of pad deposits onto the rotors which indicates the pad was incapable of dealing with the heat.

Here is a thread discussing the Abnormal Pad Deposit and suggested remedy - Clean the rotor and replace the pads.

 

http://forums.racing...ransfer-deposit  

 

Above pad deposit thread was published since 2006 more than 14 years ago, and has helped thousands of track enthusiasts to better understand the same ill effect of a "rotor vibration" but with two distinctly different causes between a "Warped Rotor" and "Rotor with Pad Deposit"

Cab you post a tl;dr version?

#6 Maxikeem

Maxikeem

    R33 Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 767 posts
  • Location:WA

Posted 29 July 2020 - 12:36 PM

Try a different pad. Looks like pad compound is not up to track duty.



Unsure if I should post it here or under the track section but was hoping someone had some insight and past experience. 
 
I recently replaced my stock OEM rotors due to cracks surrounding the drilled holes with Racing Brakes front rotors. I went with RB due to the positive feedback on the forums. 
They were installed correctly and bedded properly on the race track following RB's bedding procedures. 
 
Issue I am having now is that when the rotors get warm/hot, my steering wheel shakes when I apply the brake pedal. When the rotors are cool, there is no juddering. The rotors were put on prior to my Laguna Seca track day last Saturday so they have a total of four 15 minute sessions. I would say I have to fight the steering wheel to make sure it is pointed in the direction I want the car to travel. I'm fairly confident using N05U pads but not with this rotor to pad set up. 
Has anyone ran into this issue before under extreme braking? If so, what was the fix to it? 
My goal is to have a non-juddering steering wheel under heavy braking. My past track car had Performance Friction BBKs all around and never ran into this issue. 
 
Brake Set up: 
Racing Brake 2-Piece Replacement Slotted Front Rotors
Endless N05U Brake Pads 
Stoptech SS Brake Lines
Castrol SRF Brake Fluid
 
Link to my track day for reference: 
https://www.youtube....h?v=-Xhc2TM6JK8



#7 M3AP1

M3AP1

    GTRLIFE Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 34 posts
  • Location:Bay Area, CA

Posted 29 July 2020 - 02:00 PM

N05U is a full race compound used on Cup cars with aggressive bite and heat capacity. What other pad compound could I try with similar or better characteristic? 
Many owners from what I've read ran ME20, which is a grade below N05U so they will not be up to par with my type of track driving. 

 

Try a different pad. Looks like pad compound is not up to track duty.


 



#8 ADVNTURR

ADVNTURR

    GTRLIFE Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 26 posts
  • Location:Cleveland, OH

Posted 01 August 2020 - 05:57 PM

That was a nice lap, looked like you were reeling in a Viper ACR at the end.

 

I'm running the full RB (hat & disc) replacements on my 11 so my rotors are slightly different, but I would assume the rotor material is the same. I've only got 1 track day on my setup and it was on a track that isn't brake intensive, but I am running GLOC R16 front and R12 rear and so far so good for me. I have been running a lower R12/R8 compound setup on my TT350Z which is my normal track car with excellent luck even with 295 R888Rs on all 4 corners. I know I'm not the only person on here running the GLOC R16/R12 setup, might be worth a look.


2011 Gunmetal Grey GTR Premium - Built motor and JT Drag 800 transmission

2005 Red 350Z - TT'd (~420whp) Track Car

2016 Lapiz Blue Golf R - Daily



0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users