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which year to buy a used GTR

18K views 25 replies 18 participants last post by  Nick@bjmrc 
#1 ·
I am coming from a c6z with h/c/i/blower that put down 840rwhp and looking into the GTR over a C7zo6. I love the look of the c7z06 but traction is a HUGE issue and it will mainly be street driven etc.

Is there a certain year to go with or stay away from? I heard the early years like 2009 had trans problems but I am not sure if that is true. looking to spend around 60-70k and will definitely upgrade to E85, or buy one already done.

I appreciate the help and any link or things i can read would be great. I am going to keep reading on here etc.

Thanks all,

Gearbox
 
#2 ·
welcome you want a 2012+ at the very least as it has the first refresh with improvements like a reliable launch control ect. a 2015 gets you the more modern head and tailights aswell. those are the 2 benchmark years without getting the 2017+ which is the current facelift to interior and exterior
 
#3 ·
welcome you want a 2012+ at the very least as it has the first refresh with improvements like a reliable launch control ect. a 2015 gets you the more modern head and tailights aswell. those are the 2 benchmark years without getting the 2017+ which is the current facelift to interior and exterior

Thank you! So no trans upgrade or changes from 2012 to 2017.
 
#4 ·
Incremental things. there have been some shift algorithm changes almost yearly but 2012 is the big reliability change as far as the trans. People will tell you buy the newest model you can comfortably afford and that's pretty good advice. I would go for 2015 to get the 2012 changes and the new lights. If I didn't want the lastest refresh which is 2017-2021
 
#5 ·
+1 for '15 and newer. The LED bolt headlights are so nice and the led tails are nice too. 2015 and up also has more sound deadening on the interior and I'm pretty sure some suspension alterations that make for a "smoother" ride. Perhaps someone can elaborate further. I have a 2015 and never get sick of the lights.
 
#6 ·
As far as felt improvements, the trans and logic is improved almost every year. 2017+ owners will tell you it shifts even smoother than previous years. Even going from a 2015 to 2016, I can say there was a nice improvement in how refined the transmission shifts. I could feel very shift in my old 2015 and the 2016 is now much smoother. Not any quieter; just smoother.
 
#7 ·
Thank you all for the great ing\formation and I am glad the GTR is shifting better as the years go on. I will definitely be getting a 2015 or nothing now. I am not sure I want to (or afford) step up to a 2017, but I will keep looking.

Another one would be that I want to go E85 as my first mod with neccessary bolt ons for exhuast flow. I am getting mixed information on the cost for E85 and a tune. (Not including the bolt ons) E85 is everywhere in California and I had it on my c6z. I will probably stay at whatever those HP numbers look like and drive the car and ENJOY IT.
 
#8 · (Edited by Moderator)
Only buy the R side of this platform.
They are the only ones that will be worth anything on a long enough timeline.
R34s had low production numbers and on a percentage basis about 35-39% were SpecV or Nismo editions.
The R35 platform has a little over 5% globally as being SpecV,Track Edition or Nismo...The R side will be worth something going forward in a global Fiat monetary system backed by nothing.
Or just but Bitcoin,gold,silver or weaponry when the Western world collapses.
 
#11 ·
Thank you all for the great ing\formation and I am glad the GTR is shifting better as the years go on. I will definitely be getting a 2015 or nothing now. I am not sure I want to (or afford) step up to a 2017, but I will keep looking.

Another one would be that I want to go E85 as my first mod with neccessary bolt ons for exhuast flow. I am getting mixed information on the cost for E85 and a tune. (Not including the bolt ons) E85 is everywhere in California and I had it on my c6z. I will probably stay at whatever those HP numbers look like and drive the car and ENJOY IT.
What year?? lol.... THIS year lol.... just get into one already... Ha

Happy hunting...
 
#13 ·
#18 ·
Hey man, the CBA is as raw as it comes. Rough ride, no sound deadening, first gen MFD (display, NAV, Apple cable, etc). hell some don't even have heated seats.

DBA (14/15) is the quickest and fastest in stock form - non-Nismo - and they changed the spring rates in 2012. 15/16 got softer again and more sound deadening and 16+ have noise cancellation.

17+ is the GT of the group. Significant improvements in driver comfort and interface.

With a tune they are all about the same.

If money isn't an option I'd go with the 17+ personally.

https://www.motortrend.com/news/godzilla-numbers-2009-2017-nissan-gt-r/
 
#19 ·
Is there a certain year to go with or stay away from? I heard the early years like 2009 had trans problems but I am not sure if that is true. looking to spend around 60-70k and will definitely upgrade to E85, or buy one already done.
I highly recommend to read my pm I sent you back on January 16th.

If not, warning points may be issued in due course.
 
#21 ·
I wanted a 17+, but then the market went wild and they went out of my budget. Then I wanted a 15, for the updates like headlights/taillights. Ultimately I found the cleanest 13 Ive ever seen. With super low miles. In the end Im just as excited for the 13 as I wouldve been with the 17. Theyre all great cars
 
#22 ·
I wanted a solid red 15/16 for the updated headlights/taillights & softer ride but could never find a low mileage one with few mods and clean history etc etc.. Solid red is a harder color to find they only made around 80 units between 12-16. I found a 13 with everything I wanted then updated the headlight/taillights with factory OEM and absolutely love it. Only thing I wish MY13 had was the signature plate on the engine of who hand built it.
 
#23 ·
All engines come from one of foot guys and a signed guy signs off on them all.

Can always make a custom plate like the builders do as well.
 
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