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Diagnostics Code C1204 AWD Malfunction (Light Always On)

AWD C1204 All Wheel Drive Error Code AWD Malfunction AWD Solenoid Rear Whine Rear Clicking

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#1 Vladone1


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Posted 02 May 2021 - 04:27 AM

Hey Everyone,

Wish this wasn't my first post but I'm hoping I could get some help. Hoping to get some answers before I take it to Nissan for an inspection and telling me I have to make a billion $ worth of replacements for something that might get fixed easily, just because they don't fix parts and just switch them out.

Was driving the my R35(2014) the other day, was doing some soft-ish take offs without Launch Control or Pre Engine Rev. Did about 4 and noticed that the rear was pulling right all the time. Then Clutch overheat warning came up, let it cool down for about 15 minutes. I wasn't pushing the car very hard, gradual depression of the throttle, then pushing it a tad harder(around middle way through, never bottomed it out.) After the warning went away, I did another pull and the car, again drifted rear-right. AWD Malfunction code C1204 came up and stayed up, rear left wheel area started clicking(increasing in frequency and decreasing as I sped up or slowed down) & a whine appeared in the rear of the vehicle. After 2 days of searching for some answers and a mechanic friend checking the error code, C1204 is a malfunctioning Solenoid on the AWD system.

The car feels like drives normally, though I haven't driven it past 30mph. There are no extra clinks, clangs or rattles when I drive over any kind of bump. It still feels solid, except for the clicking and the whine.

On the other hand, I am now one of the few proud owners of a FWD Nissan GT-R, so there's that.

Anyway, hoping to shed some light on the situation,

#2 Mickwitchy


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Posted 03 May 2021 - 02:54 AM

Gotta say, sounds a lot like when my ETS unscrewed itself and snapped the wire. This gives the fault. If you continue to drive, you may suffer the same fate and blow out the front bearing on your ETS. Either way, The trans will probably have to come out. Nissan will just replace it but a GTR trans specialist could fix it. You could put a multimeter on the plug at the font of the trans to see if you get any resistance at all. If not, the wires are probably snapped.

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