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JohnnyTSi

Member Since 16 Mar 2019
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:23 PM
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Topics I've Started

local no-prep event - my FBO GTR against a Tesla model3 performance

07 September 2020 - 05:44 PM

I thought these things were fast from a dig?

 

 


Next round of parts for my build showed up today

03 August 2020 - 08:58 PM

These new OEM heads sure are purty right out of the box! This is an awesome head setup and should complement my short block nicely..

 

Best part is the seats look to be a perfect 3 angle job, installed height is good and they hold vacuum for almost 60 seconds even without a spring installed.

 

I have one problem, my valve spring compressor doesn't work with these heads - What type/style of valve spring compressor works with these heads

 

John-


valve spring compressor recommendation?

23 May 2020 - 12:38 PM

I just clicked to the fact my valve spring compressor won't work on the vr38 head!

 

I'll need to buy a new one - What works?

 

TIA,

John-

 


Transmission oil circulation question

29 April 2020 - 04:19 PM

Can someone tell me which of these oil ports is out?

 

tia

John-

 


New OEM Block/Crank drop-in build Discoveries and Observations

26 April 2020 - 01:06 AM

I’ve owned my 2013 for a year now, it took me about 6 months to get to a FBO build that maxes out the stock rods! And because I have always had a pretty sever case of hp fever, I’m never satisfied with the status quo for long, A few months back I decided to start a shortblock build and bought a New OEM block and crank from Nissan. This is to document my discoveries about this new (to me) platform. Hopefully this will help other newbies like me decide how to move into the next level with a built shortblock

 

I’ve been collecting components for a while and had everything I needed on hand.

 

Block 11000-JF0HA

Crank 12201-JF00A

Oil Squirters 11560-JF00A

Rear Main Seal 12279-AD200

O-Ring 15066-ZL80B

Manley Pistons to match the bore codes stamped on my block (WITH the upgraded .210 pins)

Manley I-Beam Turbo Tuff Rods

Main Bearings King XP STD and STDX

Rod Bearings King XP STD and STDX

ARP VR38 main stud kit

 

Initial measurements in my garage look excellent – this is obviously a brand-new block and to the tolerance of my cheap measuring tools right at expected measurements. My straight-edge and feeler gauges show the main bore and head deck are as about as perfectly straight/flat as I can measure. A bunch of research led me to target my bearing clearances in the .0022 - .0028 range hopefully towards the looser end of that range so I can run a thicker oil without having oil pressure too high. My Block was stamped as 232323 – not really anything I can do here except order the correct grade pistons and hope Manley knows what they are doing.

 

I spent an afternoon at our local Machine Shop with one of my friends and a fellow gearhead who happens to be part owner of one of the best performance machine shops in the area – we measured and verified everything, here is what we found and/or had to adjust.

 

The Manley rods are pretty darn good balance wise right out of the box, but needed just a bit of help to make them ‘perfectly’ matched. Big and little end sizing was perfect right out of the box! wrist pin oil clearance at exactly .001 - good for my targeted power level. Big end oil clearance ended up being .0025 with the STDX bearings. Rod Side to Side clearance is within spec as well as crank end play.

 

Crank main and rod journals were very consistent on all of the journals and within Nissan’s published tolerances. The balance was pretty close (less than 2 grams) and if the rev limit was to stay near stock could have been used without any changes. After all of the work involved with setting up the bob weights, we adjusted the balance within 1/4 a gram, given some good valve springs it should be good for some extra high revs.

 

Main bores were good enough using the OEM main bolts and I could have made my target oil clearance by combining a STD and STDX set of bearing halves. As expected, when we torqued down the mains using ARP studs, the mains deflected a half a thou smaller which would have brought my oil clearance a little on the tight side. Knowing I’m going to want to rev this block higher than stock rev limit, I decided to hone the mains to hit my target clearance with the ARP hardware, 20 mins later we had a combination that gave me .0025 clearance on all four mains!

 

Piston to wall clearance came out at exactly .0035 on each cylinder – I would have felt better if it had been a little looser say .0038 or even .004 but at this point, I’m forced to sendit as is. As this isn’t going to be a dedicated drag car or see nitrous, it will ‘probably’ be OK. Has anyone tried to juggle the grade sizes to get a bit more clearance? I might consider trying this, will have to research some more. For ring end gap I’ll target kind of in-between medium and high boost settings .023 top and .025 2nd ring.

 

This has been a fun adventure – I’m getting close to being able to pull my stock block and swap this built block in. I still need gaskets and a set of head studs and I should be ready to do the R&R.

 

John-