I’ve owned my 2013 for a year now, it took me about 6 months to get to a FBO build that maxes out the stock rods! And because I have always had a pretty sever case of hp fever, I’m never satisfied with the status quo for long, A few months back I decided to start a shortblock build and bought a New OEM block and crank from Nissan. This is to document my discoveries about this new (to me) platform. Hopefully this will help other newbies like me decide how to move into the next level with a built shortblock
I’ve been collecting components for a while and had everything I needed on hand.
Oil Squirters 11560-JF00A
Rear Main Seal 12279-AD200
Manley Pistons to match the bore codes stamped on my block (WITH the upgraded .210 pins)
Manley I-Beam Turbo Tuff Rods
Main Bearings King XP STD and STDX
Rod Bearings King XP STD and STDX
ARP VR38 main stud kit
Initial measurements in my garage look excellent – this is obviously a brand-new block and to the tolerance of my cheap measuring tools right at expected measurements. My straight-edge and feeler gauges show the main bore and head deck are as about as perfectly straight/flat as I can measure. A bunch of research led me to target my bearing clearances in the .0022 - .0028 range hopefully towards the looser end of that range so I can run a thicker oil without having oil pressure too high. My Block was stamped as 232323 – not really anything I can do here except order the correct grade pistons and hope Manley knows what they are doing.
I spent an afternoon at our local Machine Shop with one of my friends and a fellow gearhead who happens to be part owner of one of the best performance machine shops in the area – we measured and verified everything, here is what we found and/or had to adjust.
The Manley rods are pretty darn good balance wise right out of the box, but needed just a bit of help to make them ‘perfectly’ matched. Big and little end sizing was perfect right out of the box! wrist pin oil clearance at exactly .001 - good for my targeted power level. Big end oil clearance ended up being .0025 with the STDX bearings. Rod Side to Side clearance is within spec as well as crank end play.
Crank main and rod journals were very consistent on all of the journals and within Nissan’s published tolerances. The balance was pretty close (less than 2 grams) and if the rev limit was to stay near stock could have been used without any changes. After all of the work involved with setting up the bob weights, we adjusted the balance within 1/4 a gram, given some good valve springs it should be good for some extra high revs.
Main bores were good enough using the OEM main bolts and I could have made my target oil clearance by combining a STD and STDX set of bearing halves. As expected, when we torqued down the mains using ARP studs, the mains deflected a half a thou smaller which would have brought my oil clearance a little on the tight side. Knowing I’m going to want to rev this block higher than stock rev limit, I decided to hone the mains to hit my target clearance with the ARP hardware, 20 mins later we had a combination that gave me .0025 clearance on all four mains!
Piston to wall clearance came out at exactly .0035 on each cylinder – I would have felt better if it had been a little looser say .0038 or even .004 but at this point, I’m forced to sendit as is. As this isn’t going to be a dedicated drag car or see nitrous, it will ‘probably’ be OK. Has anyone tried to juggle the grade sizes to get a bit more clearance? I might consider trying this, will have to research some more. For ring end gap I’ll target kind of in-between medium and high boost settings .023 top and .025 2nd ring.
This has been a fun adventure – I’m getting close to being able to pull my stock block and swap this built block in. I still need gaskets and a set of head studs and I should be ready to do the R&R.