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Has anyone changed Trans/Diff oils without a life @ home using 2 jacks?


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#1 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 11:36 AM

I was thinking of giving this a try. Is this doable, esp since this will be my first attempt at doing something like this.

I have seen it done twice.

I think I know where things are roughly but was wondering how difficult it would be to work on the car in the garage with 2 lifts.

Hopefully I can find one of the electric pumps to fill the oil rather than a hand pump so it is quicker. I know it will probably take me close to 5 hrs to get it done, but it will be a learning experience.

Considering I am going to be doing this atleast 2 may be even 3 times in the year. It makes sense for me to get comfortable with it.

How high can we lift with 2 jacks? And is it easy to do, do you just lift a little from one side, then the other and keep going back and forth until its high enough? Also do you do this from one side front and the other side rear or both side front/rears?

Also anything I should be aware of or be careful of.

Thanks.

Edited by 1Day, 18 August 2010 - 11:36 AM.

2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#2 shawnhayes

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 12:02 PM

All my work is done at home with 2 jacks. But, beware, every time you go under a car that YOU'VE jacked up yourself, you're putting a bullet in a 2,000,000 cylinder gun, spinning the cylinder, and pulling the trigger with the gun pointed at yourself. Every year somebody gets killed doing this. Take your time, do it right, and follow all the safety rules.

If you don't use the "center" lift points, and use the side points, the jack point inserts sold here by Reverse Logic are good.

After you get it in the air, then support the car with jackstands using good lift points. The best approach will be to use the center points and put the jackstands under the side points. If you do the sides, one at a time, but I do only the front or the back, not both. I've seen members here do both, and have no good reason just to do the front or the back, but it seems to help with stability when I'm really cranking on a bolt with a breaker bar (a common occurance with factory tightened bolts).

You can get the car as high in the air as the jackstands go. They're designed that way.

NEVER EVER EVER get under a car only supported by jacks.

You can do this, but do it right.

Shawn

#3 sti-tom

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 12:26 PM

I have done this at home with race ramps. I feel very secure doing it this way versus jack stands. Well worth the money in my opinion, especially if you plan on doing it often. I also used a manual pump to fill it up twice (once to flush with ATF and once to fill with willall). I was sore for a week after lol. I will definitely have to get some kind of electric pump next time, would save me more then half of the time to do it.

#4 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 02:12 PM

Thanks Shawn. Its one of the things that scares me :p

So to use 2 jacks, Could I lift the car from one side and then onces its in the air a little, get the 2nd to the front center jack point? But wouldnt that come in the way of working in the front?

I will use jack stands and 2 jacks, but is there anything else I could do that might prevent an adversity? Could I throw my wheels and tires on the four corners to prevent the car from coming down?

I have done this at home with race ramps. I feel very secure doing it this way versus jack stands. Well worth the money in my opinion, especially if you plan on doing it often. I also used a manual pump to fill it up twice (once to flush with ATF and once to fill with willall). I was sore for a week after lol. I will definitely have to get some kind of electric pump next time, would save me more then half of the time to do it.



I guess I could also get race ramps, which ones do you use, but I wouldnt be able to get them by this weekend until they are available in auto stores.

how much clearance do we need, so that I can go shopping and find something.

Edited by 1Day, 18 August 2010 - 02:14 PM.

2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#5 davidm_sh

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 02:39 PM

I guess I could also get race ramps, which ones do you use, but I wouldnt be able to get them by this weekend until they are available in auto stores.

how much clearance do we need, so that I can go shopping and find something.


What I do is use normal ramps and just use 2 x 2/4 or 2 x 2/6 to build up and lengthen out the slope to the ramps. It works really well for me. Just saying you don't necessarily need special race ramps although they are nice.

#6 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 03:01 PM

What I do is use normal ramps and just use 2 x 2/4 or 2 x 2/6 to build up and lengthen out the slope to the ramps. It works really well for me. Just saying you don't necessarily need special race ramps although they are nice.


So if I buy a regular ramp put 2 stack high 2/4s in front and drive up on them first and then on the ramps, it works. I am having a hard time imaging how. Why wouldnt you have the same problem as before?

BTW do you nail down the 2 2/4s together?

Thanks
2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#7 35R

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 03:03 PM

and you dont need two jacks:

http://www.nagtroc.o...showtopic=36394

#8 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 03:10 PM

and you dont need two jacks:

http://www.nagtroc.o...showtopic=36394


Thanks, do you know if these would work from amazon?

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2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#9 DocNrock

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 04:12 PM

Thanks, do you know if these would work from amazon?


Those are only 2 3/4" tall.
2009 Obsidian Black Nissan GT-R Premium. 550 awhp, 544 awtq (Mustang dyno, 91 octane). Dyno tuned by Jon at Cobb SoCal

Auto Club Speedway ROVAL 1:51.450, Willow Springs (big Willow) 1:34.457, Buttonwillow 13cw 2:02.858, SMMR 3.1 2:41.811

Go: Akuma BM intakes with Outerwears prefilters, AMS FMIC, Harman Motive intercooler piping, iD 1000cc injectors, dual Walbro fuel pumps, NGK racing plugs, AAM decatted downpipes, Cobb catted Y-pipe, HKS Legamax exhaust, and Cobb AP with custom tune.

Stop: AP Racing J-hook rotors, Endless ME20 pads, Stillen stainless brake lines, Endless RF-650 fluid.

Handling: Stillen sway bars, Dunlop SportMaxx 285's x 4, KW Coilover Sleeve kit, custom track alignment.

Accoutrements: Traqmate Complete/Chase Cam, GT Motoring tow hook, ARP studs, Project Kics R40 lugnuts. Passenger seat mount Halon extinguisher.


#10 Goodwood

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 05:30 PM

http://www.raceramps...wheelcribs.html

#11 descartesfool

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 06:40 PM

Taking the undertrays off while the car is only raised on jackstands is a PITA. I did it once and the next time I took it to a mechanic friend of mine's shop and put it up on a lift and then did all the work. Get 4 high strength and tall jack stands and put car as high up as possible.

#12 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 07:41 PM

Taking the undertrays off while the car is only raised on jackstands is a PITA. I did it once and the next time I took it to a mechanic friend of mine's shop and put it up on a lift and then did all the work. Get 4 high strength and tall jack stands and put car as high up as possible.

Do you mean just on ramps is a pita?

I have 2 jack stands from harbor freight and i can buy another 2. So i can use raceramps for safety and then lift the car on jack stands and that should be good right? Or are there special tall jack stands that i need to get??

I bought the Rhino ramps from orielys and did a quick test by first putting thru car on 2 stacked 2/4s. Seem to have worked. Should make it easier to lift the car.
2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#13 1Day

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 07:43 PM

Thanks Steve i will check these out. They seem nice and useful and safe.

http://www.raceramps...wheelcribs.html


Those are only 2 3/4" tall.


Yeah i was just wanting to use these to lift the car enough to use center jack point and safety. But i bought some cheap rhino ones that usually wouldn't work but with 2/4s in front they work alright plus they raise the car 8"

Edited by 1Day, 18 August 2010 - 07:48 PM.

2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140

#14 Ottov

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 08:27 PM

If you are thinking in changing all the fluids in your cars, for about $US 1300.00, you get this ( go to this address ) http://www.eagleequi...LI-LM/PAD-6000W.
Your live is worth much more than that, & it will pay itself with a few changes.

#15 shawnhayes

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Posted 18 August 2010 - 09:13 PM

Thanks Shawn. Its one of the things that scares me :p

So to use 2 jacks, Could I lift the car from one side and then onces its in the air a little, get the 2nd to the front center jack point? But wouldnt that come in the way of working in the front?

I will use jack stands and 2 jacks, but is there anything else I could do that might prevent an adversity? Could I throw my wheels and tires on the four corners to prevent the car from coming down?


I use two jacks because I lift the car from the jackpoints on the side, and support the car with "suspension cradle" jackstands that use a groove to grip parts of the suspension. As a result, I have four points holding the car up over my head, but this is an old fashioned way to do it, and my jackstands are of old (sturdy and heavy) design for when cars were lifted by bumper jacks and had no under car jack points.

The rest of the community has addressed your other questions very well. You need the best jack you can get, and the tallest jackstands that you can find, with the most stable bases. Working on a GT-R on your back is a feat best reserved for the young. I accomplish it out of shear will and determination.

You can put the wheels and tires on the corners under the rotors for safety. An old mechanics trick.

Just follow the directions you've seen on here, and you'll be fine.

Shawn

#16 jonnyt5050

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:19 PM

1day,

I'm curious about the jackstands you bought. Did you go with flat top or cradle top?
All the ones I saw at harbor freight seemed to have cradle top.

It seems like flat top would be best used along with the reverselogic jackpoint tool.

Thanks.
2009 SuperSilver

Mods
====
Power: Greddy Ti 80mm exhaust, HKS Resonated Midpipe, Greddy Type 6 FMIC, HKS Intercooler Pipes, HKS SSQV BOV, HKS EVC 6, Jotech tune (496 awhp w/91 Octane)
Cooling: HKS DCT Cooler, Boost Logic Oil Cooler, Spec-V coolant tank, Evans NPG+ Fluid
Handling: Stillen Swaybars, JRZ RS Pro Silents (750lb/600lb)
Braking: AP J-Hook rotors, Forged Perf. SS brake lines, Endless MX72 pads
Wheels: Street: 20" Rays RGT57 Gram Lights w/Dunlop All-season / Track: 19" Volk RE30s w/Toyo R888s
Track accessories: Bell GT2 helmet, Moonface towhook, GoPro HD camera, Harry's Laptimer iPhone App, Sparco 4 point harness

#17 mpr

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:34 PM

you could never be too careful. good advice from these guys.

if I ever work under my car in my home garage. there will be at least 2 jackstands (sometimes 4) and two jacks lifting the car and I'll throw two wheels underneath the car if all the jacks fail at once. After all that safety factors, then I will go underneath the car.

I'll also replace any type of jack or jackstands if I see any rust or been sitting in the garage for a few years.
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#18 [email protected]

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 04:47 PM

Lots of useful info above! You will find that doing this without a lift will be very time consuming and a major pain.


If you don't feel comfortable doing all that work yourself please give us a call Ankur. We would be more then happy to help.
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#19 jonnyt5050

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 11:47 PM

Incredibly, I found someone who did a review of some jackstands.

http://revlimiter.ne...stand-review-1/

He highly rates the expensive Esco flat top (@$78 per stand).
2009 SuperSilver

Mods
====
Power: Greddy Ti 80mm exhaust, HKS Resonated Midpipe, Greddy Type 6 FMIC, HKS Intercooler Pipes, HKS SSQV BOV, HKS EVC 6, Jotech tune (496 awhp w/91 Octane)
Cooling: HKS DCT Cooler, Boost Logic Oil Cooler, Spec-V coolant tank, Evans NPG+ Fluid
Handling: Stillen Swaybars, JRZ RS Pro Silents (750lb/600lb)
Braking: AP J-Hook rotors, Forged Perf. SS brake lines, Endless MX72 pads
Wheels: Street: 20" Rays RGT57 Gram Lights w/Dunlop All-season / Track: 19" Volk RE30s w/Toyo R888s
Track accessories: Bell GT2 helmet, Moonface towhook, GoPro HD camera, Harry's Laptimer iPhone App, Sparco 4 point harness

#20 1Day

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Posted 21 August 2010 - 11:39 PM

you could never be too careful. good advice from these guys.

if I ever work under my car in my home garage. there will be at least 2 jackstands (sometimes 4) and two jacks lifting the car and I'll throw two wheels underneath the car if all the jacks fail at once. After all that safety factors, then I will go underneath the car.

I'll also replace any type of jack or jackstands if I see any rust or been sitting in the garage for a few years.


True, I would work wih 4 jack stands too, but I had the car on the rhino ramps and lifed it a little more to put the 2 harbor freight jack stands. They are cradle top, not flat top, though flat top would be nice, I have used these quite a bit and they seem to work just fine.

Once the the car was on the 2 jack stands with the ramps under the wheels and for safety I put the jack cranked up right next to one of the jack stands and went under the car. I was taking my own sweet time, so as to not make any mistakes.

Worked fine but still had few issues :p

I was all set to unfasten the engine oil bolt and it fell into the oil drain pan, didnt realize that it blocked the opening to drain the oil and the oil over flowed, by the time I could see and react, it was all over my garage floor :-X Horror! It tookd me a freaking long time to clean up 4 qts of oil. I dont think I still got all of it. Took 1.5 paper towel rolls to wipe the floors..Boy was that fun. Anyhow, I tried to take the oil filer out, realised I couldnt because I didnt have the filter opener(or whatever its called) and I didnt have time to run to the store as I had to finish up and leave for someone's house. Anyhow I left the filter in(Didnt want to do that). Anyhow I added my 6 qts of oiil and started the car and checked the dip stick and it was still under the H, so I added some more , probably 1/4 or 1/3 of a qt and tried again. This time it was fine. I really wanted to get a complete oil change and front diff change done today, but I just couldnt because of the oil spill.

Anyhow, I am going to tackle the more difficult task tom, both the diffs and trans with the pan dropping 8-O. Hope all goes well. But atleast I am little confident of going under the car.

Lots of useful info above! You will find that doing this without a lift will be very time consuming and a major pain.


If you don't feel comfortable doing all that work yourself please give us a call Ankur. We would be more then happy to help.

It is kind of painful, but I am doing this to be more hands on and have an understanding of things. Granted its not the best practicing on such a high dollar car(not so much the car, but the engine and trans), but I got nothing else to practice on, so i guess its my guinea pig :p

I did speak to chris though and told him, just in case I cant do it over the weekend, he will need to fit me in next week before my event :doh:

Incredibly, I found someone who did a review of some jackstands.

http://revlimiter.ne...stand-review-1/

He highly rates the expensive Esco flat top (@$78 per stand).


Thanks, that was a nice read. He seems to say nice stuff about the harbor freight stuff and ranks it #2. Its not bad, I have 4 of these now, so I guess I will try and work with them, next I will just pick up a lift if possible.

Edited by 1Day, 21 August 2010 - 11:39 PM.

2010 Red Premium GT-R (SOLD, Looking for MY 2013 in India)

Mods
====
1)AP Racing J-Hook Rotors 2)XP12 Pads [Changed from XP8s after 9.5 track days & 3.5k street miles] 3)Stillen SS Brake lines
4)AAM Intake 5)AAM Catless Downpipe 6)AAM Resonated Midpipe 7)Eisenmann Catback 8)Cobb eTune from AAM
9)Wheels for Track: 18" Enkei GTC01 18x10 +22 /w Toyo R888 305/35/18 & Ichiba 20mm hubcentric v2 bolt-on spacersBrake Fluid: Motul RBF600


Engine Oil: AmsOil 10w-40
Trans Oil : Pentosin
Diff Oil: Motul Comp Gear FF 75w-140


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