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Sensei
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So,

I have been using the former owner from Kaizen Tunings 19" wheel set up since 2015. He sold me his Volks RE30's which have a staggered set up ideal for 295 front and 315 rear Hoosiers.

At the time, 19" tires were the largest that Hoosier made for the track. New this year you can buy 20" rims.

About me: I coach HPDE for a bunch of different groups and I am looking to possibly time trial this year. Every year, I have gotten substantially faster and I'm going all in this year with adding safety equipment and proper seats. I have already begun buying stuff.

My conundrum lies in my wheel tire set up. The set up I have (which includes after market SPL front control arms) kills my front tires in 3 or less track days. My rears can last 5 days, but once the front are corded the rears become useless to me.... unless I want to pair them with some fresh fronts and make some nice drifts out there.

So, I want a square set up I can rotate from track day to track day and hopefully get 4-5 good days out of each set of R7's.

NOW..... I was told that 18" would not dissipate heat properly from the wheel well and therefore cook the brakes. I plan on running Gloc R16 front and Gloc R12 rear on Alcon rotors this year. Is there ANY truth to this, or is this just a fallacy? Mind you, I am pushing it pretty hard out there.

Ideally, I would go to a 18" so I can grab some scrubs too for practice, but I am open to any 18,19 or 20" wheel I can make work from a square set up.

I am looking to do either a 305 or 315 square set up. (I was told 315 would not clear the front wheel well - any truth to that either?).

I am looking for recommendations also for wheels as I want to put a WTB ad up and start my search ASAP over these winter months.

Thanks in advance.
 

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So,

I have been using the former owner from Kaizen Tunings 19" wheel set up since 2015. He sold me his Volks RE30's which have a staggered set up ideal for 295 front and 315 rear Hoosiers.

At the time, 19" tires were the largest that Hoosier made for the track. New this year you can buy 20" rims.

About me: I coach HPDE for a bunch of different groups and I am looking to possibly time trial this year. Every year, I have gotten substantially faster and I'm going all in this year with adding safety equipment and proper seats. I have already begun buying stuff.

My conundrum lies in my wheel tire set up. The set up I have (which includes after market SPL front control arms) kills my front tires in 3 or less track days. My rears can last 5 days, but once the front are corded the rears become useless to me.... unless I want to pair them with some fresh fronts and make some nice drifts out there.

So, I want a square set up I can rotate from track day to track day and hopefully get 4-5 good days out of each set of R7's.

NOW..... I was told that 18" would not dissipate heat properly from the wheel well and therefore cook the brakes. I plan on running Gloc R16 front and Gloc R12 rear on Alcon rotors this year. Is there ANY truth to this, or is this just a fallacy? Mind you, I am pushing it pretty hard out there.

Ideally, I would go to a 18" so I can grab some scrubs too for practice, but I am open to any 18,19 or 20" wheel I can make work from a square set up.

I am looking to do either a 305 or 315 square set up. (I was told 315 would not clear the front wheel well - any truth to that either?).

I am looking for recommendations also for wheels as I want to put a WTB ad up and start my search ASAP over these winter months.

Thanks in advance.
What year GTR do you have? If DBA then you cannot fit 18" wheels easily, you'll need custom fitment to clear front brake calipers. Even some 19" wheels don't fit without trimming down edges of front brakes.

What suspension do you have? Plans to lower? What alignment and front negative camber? Any upper control arm adjustable bushings to help with more neg front camber or fully adjustable front control arm?

315 is possible but for R7 there are some limits.

In 19"

295/30-19 $416 each, fits 10-12" wide rims, perfect for 10" rim, tire diam. 26.1"

295/35-19 $424 each low stock, fits 10-12" wide rims, perfect for 10" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

315/30-19 $491 each, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 26.1"

315/35-19 $491 each low stock, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 27.5"

325/30-19 $491 each special order, fits 12-13" wide rims, perfect for 13" rim, tire diam. 26.8"

In 20"

305/30-20 $553 each special order, fits 10-11" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

335/25/20 $526 each, low stock or special order, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 12" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

To make the most out of any tire setup you need the right wheel fitment and the right suspension setup including aggressive front negative camber from -3 to -3.5 degrees and matching rear camber of about -2 to -2.5 degrees. Otherwise you won't be able to use your tires to their best for wear or traction and just wear them out faster.

If brake cooling is any issue on the track you can also look at various brake upgrades with track pads, fluids, larger rotors, brake ducts or even CF brakes. Some depends on how you use your brakes, your instructors can give feedback on your brake use or data from telemetry can tell.

If you are running square wheels you have limits of about 20x11et30 with OEM suspension. In that case either R7 tire size may work and not rub since both are smaller tire diameter for clearance and both fit 11" wheels. Cost is higher per tire. 305/30-20 is a safer bet for fitment.

Otherwise 20x10.5 et36 will fit and match 305/30-20 R7 fine. You can run a rear spacer to move the wheel outward to make it flush, 20mm is fine

If 19" then 19x10.5 et36 and either 315/30-19 or 315/35-19 but taller tire diameter will give you more road clearance for any dips or level changes on the course and avoid bottoming out. I favor the 315/35-19. Again rear spacer about 20mm.
 

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Sensei
Joined
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344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What year GTR do you have? If DBA then you cannot fit 18" wheels easily, you'll need custom fitment to clear front brake calipers. Even some 19" wheels don't fit without trimming down edges of front brakes.

What suspension do you have? Plans to lower? What alignment and front negative camber? Any upper control arm adjustable bushings to help with more neg front camber or fully adjustable front control arm?

315 is possible but for R7 there are some limits.

In 19"

295/30-19 $416 each, fits 10-12" wide rims, perfect for 10" rim, tire diam. 26.1"

295/35-19 $424 each low stock, fits 10-12" wide rims, perfect for 10" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

315/30-19 $491 each, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 26.1"

315/35-19 $491 each low stock, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 27.5"

325/30-19 $491 each special order, fits 12-13" wide rims, perfect for 13" rim, tire diam. 26.8"

In 20"

305/30-20 $553 each special order, fits 10-11" wide rims, perfect for 11" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

335/25/20 $526 each, low stock or special order, fits 11-12" wide rims, perfect for 12" rim, tire diam. 27.1"

To make the most out of any tire setup you need the right wheel fitment and the right suspension setup including aggressive front negative camber from -3 to -3.5 degrees and matching rear camber of about -2 to -2.5 degrees. Otherwise you won't be able to use your tires to their best for wear or traction and just wear them out faster.

If brake cooling is any issue on the track you can also look at various brake upgrades with track pads, fluids, larger rotors, brake ducts or even CF brakes. Some depends on how you use your brakes, your instructors can give feedback on your brake use or data from telemetry can tell.

If you are running square wheels you have limits of about 20x11et30 with OEM suspension. In that case either R7 tire size may work and not rub since both are smaller tire diameter for clearance and both fit 11" wheels. Cost is higher per tire. 305/30-20 is a safer bet for fitment.

Otherwise 20x10.5 et36 will fit and match 305/30-20 R7 fine. You can run a rear spacer to move the wheel outward to make it flush, 20mm is fine

If 19" then 19x10.5 et36 and either 315/30-19 or 315/35-19 but taller tire diameter will give you more road clearance for any dips or level changes on the course and avoid bottoming out. I favor the 315/35-19. Again rear spacer about 20mm.
I have a 2017 Premium. I have the SPL front control arms and I am currently at -3 camber. No plans to lower. I think I would opt to do a 19" square set up.
 

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I have def cooked my brakes with 18s square at Laguna Seca (track is very hard on brakes).

I also have a nice metal shaved ring on the inside from where the brakes have met metal to metal. I was running 390mm rotors.

That said, going to swap out to 385mm or even 380mm to bring that caliper back. I don't think it'll impact cooling that much but I won't be binding. Even the little bit of wheel flex under load with temps way up i'm sure is a problem.
 

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Sensei
Joined
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344 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have def cooked my brakes with 18s square at Laguna Seca (track is very hard on brakes).

I also have a nice metal shaved ring on the inside from where the brakes have met metal to metal. I was running 390mm rotors.

That said, going to swap out to 385mm or even 380mm to bring that caliper back. I don't think it'll impact cooling that much but I won't be binding. Even the little bit of wheel flex under load with temps way up i'm sure is a problem. What glued
what brake fluid are you using?
 
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