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I read this in an article discussing the MY12 changes.

"The increase in economy is a feat, considering the substantial 45-hp bump to the VR38DETT V-6, due mainly to higher boost pressure made possible by better engine cooling. Peak boost rises from 10.9 psi to 13.0, and timing and fuel mixture are remapped accordingly. Mizuno says a 1-mm increase in the stroke of the thermostat allows greater coolant flow, which helps compensate for the higher cylinder temperatures."

Can anyone confirm or deny? If the MY12 thermostat is better can it be installed into an earlier GT-R?
 

· R36 Member
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I read this in an article discussing the MY12 changes.

"The increase in economy is a feat, considering the substantial 45-hp bump to the VR38DETT V-6, due mainly to higher boost pressure made possible by better engine cooling. Peak boost rises from 10.9 psi to 13.0, and timing and fuel mixture are remapped accordingly. Mizuno says a 1-mm increase in the stroke of the thermostat allows greater coolant flow, which helps compensate for the higher cylinder temperatures."

Can anyone confirm or deny? If the MY12 thermostat is better can it be installed into an earlier GT-R?
Interesting, this is the first that I have heard of it. Can you link the article please?
 

· GTR Nerd
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Okay... So how does a simple thermostat change THAT much temperature? I mean... How can it change the cooling system that could possibly be always on after a certain high temperature anyway?
It doesn't really, but its a stack up of things, that make everything better. Grab a ruler, check out what 1mm looks like. It opens a bit more it flows a bit more. There is a balance between flow, and time in a radiator to cool, and capacity, and all that kind of thing. Someone good at math and thermodynamics or something could probably tell you what its worth in the real world. Why not 0.5 mm, 1.5, or 2.5 mm? If some more is good, much more is gooder?

At a point you do saturate the system, and you can't get it any cooler, however you actually don't want everything too cool. Some parts you want hot. Some parts you want cooler.
 

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It doesn't really, but its a stack up of things, that make everything better. Grab a ruler, check out what 1mm looks like. It opens a bit more it flows a bit more. There is a balance between flow, and time in a radiator to cool, and capacity, and all that kind of thing. Someone good at math and thermodynamics or something could probably tell you what its worth in the real world. Why not 0.5 mm, 1.5, or 2.5 mm? If some more is good, much more is gooder?

At a point you do saturate the system, and you can't get it any cooler, however you actually don't want everything too cool. Some parts you want hot. Some parts you want cooler.
Thanks! And that is exactly what my question was geared towards... Is Nissan suggesting that they didn't get the cooling right?
 

· Super Moderator
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Thanks! And that is exactly what my question was geared towards... Is Nissan suggesting that they didn't get the cooling right?
I have two questions related to this thread:

1) Wouldn't there be a low or no cost "mod" by turning on the fans sooner (at a lower temperature)? I'm aware of a possible error code depending upon the type of thermostat...but I think a Map fix around this might also be possible.

2) Instead of a 2012 thermostat for previous year cars, why not an aftermarket, cooler temperature-rated thermostat (Dodson, etc.)? (again, error code Map adjustments)

Alexd
 
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