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Did some more research on this and it looks like keeping the paddles on the column is very possible and is actually easier as it makes for a true plug and play installation if that's the preferred setup. Converting to the new steering wheel mounted paddles is when things start getting more complicated by some degree with the wiring. The paddles on the 2017+ seems to just clip-on and modular so that's an easy removal.
Someone needs to send one of us a 2017 wheel with center trim so we can verify once and for all that it's:

1. Plug and PLay

2. Steering buttons work

3. Paddles can stay on the column

And then post up the info here!! :shiftdrive:
 

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I have a steering wheel coming from across the pond in the next week or two. Just need to order an airbag from the dealer then I can verify fitment and post the results.

Using the pictures of the eBay Nismo wheel as reference, the only connections needed is the main, gray connector on the left (for all of the buttons) and the airbag ground wire from the new steering wheel. I'm guessing the white connector on the right from the paddles are not used if the steering column paddles are to be retained.

My plan is to pop off the paddles on the wheel and see where that leaves things. May need to come up with a solution to cover the shifter openings on the wheel but will figure that out on the fly. I'll post some of the pictures and videos that I've been referencing once I get back on the computer again.
 

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The video below from OHC that was previously posted in this thread is the main video I used to determine what happens with the paddles and its connections. OHC uses a module to incorporate the new wheel mounted paddles for older DBA/CBA cars but isn't needed if we are choosing to retain the column shifters. No need to tap wires or even open up the column shroud for that matter. If I'm interpreting the video correctly, the section from 2:15 to 6:18 can be skipped in its entirety. Just pop off the paddles from the new wheel and go straight to reinstalling the wheel and airbag.

Based on what others have posted on FB, the most important thing that might be overlooked is, before disconnecting the battery and dismounting the steering wheel, ensure the steering wheel is straight. Much harder to straighten with the battery disconnected.

The buttons are shown to be working at 8:10.


I also plan to pop off the paddles prior to reinstalling the new wheel which should be simple to do with the wheel already off the car. I haven't figured out how I want to cover the opening. Once the paddle is removed, it reveals the circuit boards for the paddles. The circuit boards appear to be held in by one screw. I'm guessing both of those circuit boards can be removed but not really sure what to do with them yet. :dunno:

Not 100% sure this is all correct but I'll know for sure in about two weeks.

Automotive tire Leg Hood Synthetic rubber Tread
 

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Will do!^^

The wheel should be here early next week based on tracking info. Depending on when the dealer receives the airbag, I might be able to get it sorted out by next weekend.

In case anyone is on the fence, there is a Memorial Day sale going on for Nissan OEM parts at certain dealers. I was able to order the airbag for $653 before tax (45% off) from Tynans Nissan which is local to me. This is the best price I've seen in a long time.

https://www.justnissanparts.com/p/Nissan__GT-R/Steering-Wheel-Air-Bag/90129258/K8510-6AV0A.html
 

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Most of the parts arrived two weeks ago but have been sitting because I needed to procure a set of buttons due to some miscommunication on my part. I ended up also purchasing the 2017+ NISMO steering wheel as a donor for the buttons and rear trim (the core will be up for sale shortly if anyone needs an alcantara steering wheel). That arrived today and I was able to get the transplant completed.

So where do we start...

The transplant is very easy and mostly plug and play. I say "mostly" because everything does technically plug right into the DBA clock spring. The caveat is that the pinouts for the buttons are mapped differently. The mappings don't all correspond to the symbols on the buttons and not all of the buttons work. The most important part is that the buttons I need most and the paddle shifters on the column all work at expected. I can still change maps, control boost, and cruise control works as expected.

I feel like I can probably remap the buttons in my head versus re-pinning the harness but who knows what happens when you're bored over the winter. I'll roll with it for a little while and determine if re-pinning is necessary. The other possibility is that the 2017+ clock spring is different and may have the proper pinouts that correspond to the mapping of the newer buttons. Unfortunately, Mitchell1 doesn't have the 2017+ GTR in their database with the wiring diagram pinouts so I can't compare and verify. Part #s seem to be the same so unless someone can confirm, I'm unsure I want to drop $300 to find out they're the same thing. The various buttons that have either different or no mappings are below. Note the newer wheel has an up/down/enter whereas the older wheel didn't.

Volume up isn't mapped to anything

Stopwatch buttons no longer work

Phone Hang Up = Volume Up

Enter = Seek down

Down = Seek Up

Back = Source

Source = Voice Recognition

Voice recognition = Phone Hang Up

With the paddles from the newer steering wheel removed, I also elected to leave the recessed opening for the paddle circuits bare. It is not noticeable from the driver's seat and immediately behind the column paddles so not very noticeable from other angles either unless you look very closely. I think unless I want to start venturing into 3D scanning/printing, I'll leave it as-is for now.

Overall, I'm happy with the look of the updated wheel while still retaining the column mounted shifters. Didn't realize how chunky the old steering wheel and airbag looked until I did a side by side comparison.

Some pictures of the before/afters and somewhere in between.

Vehicle Speedometer Car Motor vehicle Trip computer

Vehicle Car Speedometer Motor vehicle Automotive lighting

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle White Automotive lighting

Sports equipment Motor vehicle Grey Automotive design Audio equipment

Steering part Vehicle Automotive design Alloy wheel Automotive lighting

Automotive design Grey Automotive tire Carbon Personal luxury car

Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive tire
 

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Most of the parts arrived two weeks ago but have been sitting because I needed to procure a set of buttons due to some miscommunication on my part. I ended up also purchasing the 2017+ NISMO steering wheel as a donor for the buttons and rear trim (the core will be up for sale shortly if anyone needs an alcantara steering wheel). That arrived today and I was able to get the transplant completed.

So where do we start...

The transplant is very easy and mostly plug and play. I say "mostly" because everything does technically plug right into the DBA clock spring. The caveat is that the pinouts for the buttons are mapped differently. The mappings don't all correspond to the symbols on the buttons and not all of the buttons work. The most important part is that the buttons I need most and the paddle shifters on the column all work at expected. I can still change maps, control boost, and cruise control works as expected.

I feel like I can probably remap the buttons in my head versus re-pinning the harness but who knows what happens when you're bored over the winter. I'll roll with it for a little while and determine if re-pinning is necessary. The other possibility is that the 2017+ clock spring is different and may have the proper pinouts that correspond to the mapping of the newer buttons. Unfortunately, Mitchell1 doesn't have the 2017+ GTR in their database with the wiring diagram pinouts so I can't compare and verify. Part #s seem to be the same so unless someone can confirm, I'm unsure I want to drop $300 to find out they're the same thing. The various buttons that have either different or no mappings are below. Note the newer wheel has an up/down/enter whereas the older wheel didn't.

Volume up isn't mapped to anything

Stopwatch buttons no longer work

Phone Hang Up = Volume Up

Enter = Seek down

Down = Seek Up

Back = Source

Source = Voice Recognition

Voice recognition = Phone Hang Up

With the paddles from the newer steering wheel removed, I also elected to leave the recessed opening for the paddle circuits bare. It is not noticeable from the driver's seat and immediately behind the column paddles so not very noticeable from other angles either unless you look very closely. I think unless I want to start venturing into 3D scanning/printing, I'll leave it as-is for now.

Overall, I'm happy with the look of the updated wheel while still retaining the column mounted shifters. Didn't realize how chunky the old steering wheel and airbag looked until I did a side by side comparison.

Some pictures of the before/afters and somewhere in between.

attachicon.gif
2017-after.jpg

attachicon.gif
before.JPG

attachicon.gif
side-by-side-nismo.JPG

attachicon.gif
2017-front-airbag.JPG

attachicon.gif
2017-rear.jpg

attachicon.gif
paddle-left.JPG

attachicon.gif
paddle-right.JPG
Nicely done, now we need someone to trace the wires and make a plug and play harness to allow the buttons to work the way they are intended too.
 

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@L.L. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Hats off to you man!

That 2017+ steering wheel looks light years ahead of the C/DBA ones.

Was it any trouble to get the paddle shifters out and off the 2017 wheel?
 

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@L.L. :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: Hats off to you man!
That 2017+ steering wheel looks light years ahead of the C/DBA ones.

Was it any trouble to get the paddle shifters out and off the 2017 wheel?
I really like the look of the new wheel and should have done it sooner since it was such simple swap!

Getting the paddle shifter circuit board out of the wheel was probably the easiest part. No guesswork. The two screws, one for each paddle, can only be accessed once the front trim and buttons come off. Both of those items are easy to get off too; just need to pry in the right spots and wiggle.
 

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Nicely done, now we need someone to trace the wires and make a plug and play harness to allow the buttons to work the way they are intended too.
I've got the old steering wheel buttons disassembled but haven't made much progress otherwise. Need to dig through the service manual electrical diagrams to confirm the pinouts.
 

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@L.L. very appreciative of all your work on this! Always wanted to do this just didn't know the details/work needed to do this conversion. I might be the minority here but i prefer 2017+ leather steering wheel, i only see Nismo version on eBay.
 

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@L.L. very appreciative of all your work on this! Always wanted to do this just didn't know the details/work needed to do this conversion. I might be the minority here but i prefer 2017+ leather steering wheel, i only see Nismo version on eBay.
With having both the Nismo alcantara steering wheel and the re-trimmed wheel from Andy/R35audio side by side, I prefer the leather trim as well. The leather just has a better overall feel to it but then again alcantara has never been my thing. The OEM leather 2017+ wheel is an arm and a leg though. It is $2500+ without the airbag so it makes sense some just buy the Nismo steering wheel at just under $2k after taxes and shipping to the US.
 

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A little update on the buttons...

Neither Mitchell1 ProDemand nor the Nissan service manuals provide the pinouts for the steering wheel control harness. The 8-pin connector is listed with the color of wires but the description column is all blank. That's pretty much a dead end.

I rewatched the OHC YouTube video again and saw they are in fact using a decoder module tucked away near the right set of buttons before the new airbag is installed. I reached out to OHC on IG and they do sell the module for $250 which I did purchase. It'll ship out of HK tomorrow and I'll post an update once I receive it.
 

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This is pretty cool to see. A little off topic but if anyone is interested in an oem 17 wheel PM me. I installed a carbon fiber one recently.
 

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A little update on the buttons...

Neither Mitchell1 ProDemand nor the Nissan service manuals provide the pinouts for the steering wheel control harness. The 8-pin connector is listed with the color of wires but the description column is all blank. That's pretty much a dead end.

I rewatched the OHC YouTube video again and saw they are in fact using a decoder module tucked away near the right set of buttons before the new airbag is installed. I reached out to OHC on IG and they do sell the module for $250 which I did purchase. It'll ship out of HK tomorrow and I'll post an update once I receive it.
Hi L.L.,

Please keep us updated, I will be following your footsteps on this retrofit. Any link to decoder module you purchases from OHC?

Thanks
 

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Hi L.L.,

Please keep us updated, I will be following your footsteps on this retrofit. Any link to decoder module you purchases from OHC?

Thanks
Unfortunately, there's not a direct link to the module on their site. I DM'ed OHC on IG and asked to purchase it directly. After sending pictures to confirm we were both on the same page, a PayPal invoice was sent to my email address for the item. They were very responsive and the whole transaction took ten minutes at most.

If everything works as expected, others could also contact them directly asking for the item as invoiced:

1.0 x Upgrade Module for old model to new model switches for GT-R

https://www.instagram.com/ohcmotors/?hl=en

I'll keep everyone posted on how well the module works once it gets here.
 

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Has anyone done a backwards conversion? As in 17 with a 16 or older wheel hahaha
 
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