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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all! I am currently in the process of researching a good build. I was curious if I could get some recommendations from all of you. My goals are for around 600whp, but I am not stuck to a number by any means. I purchased the car with some light mods which are: Harman Motive CAI, HKS Superior SpecR Full Exhaust, CBRD Y-pipe. I am not married to these mods either, so I have no problem swapping them out. I have another thread going about exhaust note, so I will more than likely be swapping out the mid-pipe. The exhaust I plan to keep for now till this build is complete to see how it sounds then. I was also unsure if there was a better CAI out there, or what I current have will work. The following mods are what I was recommended to get:

Full exhaust, actuators, intercooler, intercooler piping, BOVs, Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Intakes and a tune, down pipes.

I just purchased a Boost Logic Intercooler, thank you pcasso87!, so that takes care of that part. I have also been lurking around the classified section for some of the other items. My biggest issue with being so new to the car is that I don't know what brands are the better more reliable ones to get, I am unsure of sizes to get i.e. injectors, fuel pumps or systems, Cobb AP 005 or 006, and other small issues like these. The only thing I have decided on are the AMS downs, and probably some type of suction pipe/kit. Everything else is just kind of out there.

Also, as I do this build at what point should I have to worry about upgrading engine, transmission, and other things. I really don't want to do any of that because the car is still actually under warranty, so if something happens (and I can be lucky enough) I want to TRY and keep it warratyable.....

The car is a 2009 with about 25k on it also... Almost forgot that.

Thank you ahead of time for help on this!!!

 

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Can you get E85?
From what I've heard and researched, I just ordered Spray it Racing (SIR) 265lph FPs. ID1000s or the SIR line of injectors are also good recommendations.
Cobb w/TMC is a common EMS used by most here at these power levels. Not sure what the Actuators, BOVs, and even IC and piping will do for you at this stage. If you do not have any of these yet, I would not bother; IMHO.
Once the EMS is altered you are playing roulette with warranty. But I do think these mods and the goals you have set are in reason and should provide for a very nice DD
 

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I really don't plan on tracking or dragging the car at all. Maybe once in a blue moon, but to be honest my income is in the area to fully enjoy the car at this time.
600awhp while achievable on a dyno run on 93 Octane is highly undesirable to go driving around on. There are a number of members here, however that have achieved 600awhp on stock turbos using E85.

So once you're on E85 you can achieve your goal.

In terms of longevity of the engine, a good tuner will have your torque come in nice and smooth. Too much torque low down has been fingered as one of the causes of bent stock rods (even when there's no knock) . So if you don't want to play around with long term reliability you'll keep your torque to a sensible level.

If you're going E85 , your fuel delivery is important. You need high flow pumps and I would recommend the 1000cc ID injectors. They start and run like stock.

At that level of airflow, you'll also need to rescale your MAF voltage. This can be done by one of either 2 ways - (1) Aftermarket MAF sensor (such as AMS or AAM) with stock intake or (2) a larger intake with the stock MAF sensor. The latter is more preferable IMHO unless you want a stock looking engine bay. The GotBoost Intake is universally accepted as one of the better intakes and pricing is very good.

You might also want to spend some money on some larger suction pipes (piping which connects to turbo inlet). Couple vendors do them. They've been show to give add power as well.

Exhaust-wise, de-catted down pipes (AMS) and a catted y pipe (AMS) would go nicely with you cat back.

Actuators and Blow Off Valve- I wouldn't recommend interfering with either of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the help so far. Some interesting advice here so far. I have some question, but I think I will wait for a few more posts first. I have a feeling they will get answered.

I do have E85 close to me, but I did not think of this as an option. I was reading here about it, and seemed as though it would shorten the life of a few components and possibly the engine life. All of this I believe was due to the increased heat or hotter spark. Not totally sure. Like I said I am not stuck to having exactly 600 or more. I just know my tuner did a set up pretty much just like this on a '10 and it was like 593/570 something I believe. That is the only reason I threw the 600 number out there. I have been trying to see some of the builds people have on here to get ideas, but it is hard to find. Maybe we can get a build sticky with everyone's mods and numbers for newbie's or even the ones that have been here for a bit to get ideas.

Thanks again!
 

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Your intercooler is on the way brother, thanks for the purchase and enjoy! Im sure you will reach your goal but i would recommend tuning for e-85 i ran it on my evo x and on the gt-r and man its a game changer fuel car runs much cooler and better under power.
 

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BL Downpipes, midpipe, intake, COBB...580whp on pump. Throw ID1000s and BL dual pumps and you'll be set for future mods and a safe tune on E85. 610whp all day. Forged actuators will net another 25-30whp with these mods on stock turbos. Give us a call if you have any questions.
 

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NJ Strong
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not to be an ass or anything, but what kind of DYNO is everyone using. my brother just did his protune with downpipes midpipe 1000cc inj. & fuel pumps and put down 462awp. my GTR base pull with cobb stage 1 flash put down 392awp. both are '09s and both used the SAME dyno. those are REALISTIC numbers. whats this 600awp nonsense talk on stock turbos on pump gas with bolt ons ?!? I know some of you might call this a LOW reading dyno, BUT mathematically it is 100% accurate bc at 480 crank and 18%-20% drivetrain loss the math is roughly 390ish depending upon what % factor you used. again not trying to be an asshole, but i prefer people have REAL expectations. posted dyno graph from MY car base pull



and not to take away from the car. my brother pulls an easy 5-6 cars on me at 18psi. so the tune was an amazing difference and both are fun cars. both were also on the DYNO within the hour of one another. so for whats its worth, a REALISTIC # on a REALISTIC dyno, a fully bolted GTR @18psi on 93 should be no more than 500awhp. call me crazy.

PS. keep in mind i said COBB STAGE 1 (graph above). in other words thats at 13psi, not the factory 11psi setting.so TECHNICALLY, my car should have even read LOWER than 392 if it were at 11psi. which would give you roughly that 80awhp difference between stock and a tune with pipes. feedback welcome.
 

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BL Downpipes, midpipe, intake, COBB...580whp on pump. Throw ID1000s and BL dual pumps and you'll be set for future mods and a safe tune on E85. 610whp all day. Forged actuators will net another 25-30whp with these mods on stock turbos. Give us a call if you have any questions.
Hi,

What 1/4 mile time is normally seen with these mods ?
 

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not to be an ass or anything, but what kind of DYNO is everyone using. my brother just did his protune with downpipes midpipe 1000cc inj. & fuel pumps and put down 462awp. my GTR base pull with cobb stage 1 flash put down 392awp. both are '09s and both used the SAME dyno. those are REALISTIC numbers. whats this 600awp nonsense talk on stock turbos on pump gas with bolt ons ?!? I know some of you might call this a LOW reading dyno, BUT mathematically it is 100% accurate bc at 480 crank and 18%-20% drivetrain loss the math is roughly 390ish depending upon what % factor you used. again not trying to be an asshole, but i prefer people have REAL expectations. posted dyno graph from MY car base pull



and not to take away from the car. my brother pulls an easy 5-6 cars on me at 18psi. so the tune was an amazing difference and both are fun cars. both were also on the DYNO within the hour of one another. so for whats its worth, a REALISTIC # on a REALISTIC dyno, a fully bolted GTR @18psi on 93 should be no more than 500awhp. call me crazy.

PS. keep in mind i said COBB STAGE 1 (graph above). in other words thats at 13psi, not the factory 11psi setting.so TECHNICALLY, my car should have even read LOWER than 392 if it were at 11psi. which would give you roughly that 80awhp difference between stock and a tune with pipes. feedback welcome.
You answered the question yourself when you said your dyno may read low. Don't feel insecure because your numbers arent as high as other cars on other dynos under different conditions. I'm sure you are aware that the dyno is just a tool to read gains relevant to your baseline pull. Every dyno will read a little differently, even the same brand of dyno can be calibrated differently. Also, your quoted 18-20% drivetrain loss is probably a little on the overestimated side. Generally, compared to rated power from Nissan, people are seeing around 10% drivetrain loss ie. 530 crank hp stock 2012 is usually seeing around 470whp.
 

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NJ Strong
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nobody is insecure here. this is just real talk. MY 18%-20% drivetrain LOSS isn't overestimated at all bc you cant argue math. that is EXACTLY what my 2009 has lost on this specific dyno when you compare crank/awhp. with that said, i guarantee you that a 2012 would be convincingly sub 470 on this dyno. this makes me question some of these companies "performance kits". take the Switzer P800 (crank) kit for example. if i am NOT mistaken, that $20,000 package puts down a 650 awhp. so if people are doing 600 with stock turbos and w/o several other bolt ons that come with that package, WHY even bother spending the extra $10,000-$15,000 to gain 50 hp ????? the math is off with some of the above posted numbers, thats all im saying.
 

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Hello all! I am currently in the process of researching a good build. I was curious if I could get some recommendations from all of you. My goals are for around 600whp, but I am not stuck to a number by any means. I purchased the car with some light mods which are: Harman Motive CAI, HKS Superior SpecR Full Exhaust, CBRD Y-pipe. I am not married to these mods either, so I have no problem swapping them out. I have another thread going about exhaust note, so I will more than likely be swapping out the mid-pipe. The exhaust I plan to keep for now till this build is complete to see how it sounds then. I was also unsure if there was a better CAI out there, or what I current have will work. The following mods are what I was recommended to get:

Full exhaust, actuators, intercooler, intercooler piping, BOVs, Fuel Pumps, Injectors, Intakes and a tune, down pipes.

I just purchased a Boost Logic Intercooler, thank you pcasso87!, so that takes care of that part. I have also been lurking around the classified section for some of the other items. My biggest issue with being so new to the car is that I don't know what brands are the better more reliable ones to get, I am unsure of sizes to get i.e. injectors, fuel pumps or systems, Cobb AP 005 or 006, and other small issues like these. The only thing I have decided on are the AMS downs, and probably some type of suction pipe/kit. Everything else is just kind of out there.

Also, as I do this build at what point should I have to worry about upgrading engine, transmission, and other things. I really don't want to do any of that because the car is still actually under warranty, so if something happens (and I can be lucky enough) I want to TRY and keep it warratyable.....

The car is a 2009 with about 25k on it also... Almost forgot that.

Thank you ahead of time for help on this!!!

Well - I love the AMS downpipes.. and love the HKS Legal Max Exhaust.

But have recently fallen in love with AAMs exhaust system. Sounds is awesome and fitment is A LOT better than others - and hey the price isn't bad.

At this power level as long as your Catless and have a 90mm Ypipe you'll be able to make power.

Injectors.. I've used DW1000s, ID1000s and SIR1000s on GTRs. I do not like the DW injectors.

To me the SIR & ID's are the same thing - SIR's are a cheaper.

Fuel Pumps - You dont have to get them unless you do E85 - But if it was me- I'd change them.. That's just how I am.

DW make the DW65c which is a dropin pump - SIR makes the same thing..

Intakes? No-brainer. Dave @ Got-Boost-Performance makes a killer 3" Intake

Dave is also working on a Intercooler Piping Kit so stay tuned for that!

Changing Wastegates isn't the best bang for your buck - so I would skip that

Hope that helps you out.

-John
 

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nobody is insecure here. this is just real talk. MY 18%-20% drivetrain LOSS isn't overestimated at all bc you cant argue math. that is EXACTLY what my 2009 has lost on this specific dyno when you compare crank/awhp. with that said, i guarantee you that a 2012 would be convincingly sub 470 on this dyno. this makes me question some of these companies "performance kits". take the Switzer P800 (crank) kit for example. if i am NOT mistaken, that $20,000 package puts down a 650 awhp. so if people are doing 600 with stock turbos and w/o several other bolt ons that come with that package, WHY even bother spending the extra $10,000-$15,000 to gain 50 hp ????? the math is off with some of the above posted numbers, thats all im saying.
What math are you talking about? You are taking your own isolated case and trying to say every single other dyno in the US is reading high. Skip the whole "real math talk" because you simply have none. The car makes what it makes, dynos are just tools to measure performance gains through tuning and modifications.
 

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NJ Strong
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What math are you talking about?.
You take 480 crank hp, figure out what 18% of that (which is 86.4), subtract that from aforementioned # and you get 393.6. Thats MATH dumbass. Go public school.
 

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You take 480 crank hp, figure out what 18% of that (which is 86.4), subtract that from aforementioned # and you get 393.6. Thats MATH dumbass. Go public school.
Wow. Chill Pill. Comparing crank HP to dyno hp while effective isn't the end all of measurements. You have 393.6 awhp on that dyno on that day with a stg 1 cobb, some guy down the street might make 430 awhp without the tune on a different dyno, different day. Dyno hp numbers are easily manipulated when different settings are involved. What matters is the delta of your own car with a given set of mods etc to know that you're moving in the right direction. Drivetrain loss is one of those things that doesn't matter either - unless you can pull the motor and do a crank hp measurement yourself what Nissan says is up for debate.

Go run another cobb stg 1 gt-r and see how you fair that has a 'different' dyno number - I suspect, unless some one has a beat motor or worn tires, it will be neck and neck. Which dyno number is correct? They both are, so stop calling people names - this isn't high school. Dyno numbers are an aid, that's it.

Seems like 570ish is the upper bounds of 93 with just bolt ons and a good tune which can be had for less than $10k
 
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