[Wantagtr]

Thanks in advance for your opinions/time. I have been looking for awhile, doing some research, and reading about GTR's in preparation of buying one. Been reading the forums, etc. Hope you could lend me a hand with some perspective:

1. When looking at a modified GTR, when should I be concerned about possible transmission issues? I have seen cars with claimed 700+ WHP with no modifications whatsoever to the trans. Is there a limit or a rule of thumb when the trans. should be modified to handle the extra power? Am I correct that the trans would be the place of most concern?

2. I live on Long Island in NY. A lot of great cars are in another state. Would you guys happen to know a trusted resource that could check out a modified car and report any issues/problems if the car was so far away I couldn't go there myself? Not the ideal situation, but see people doing it all the time (buying the car based upon conversation, video, pics, etc.)

3. After reading the forum, it looked to me that AMS Alpha cars, JOTECH, and Switzer put together some popular packages that people were very happy with. Seemed reliable and top performing. Am I correct? Are there other mod packages I should trust more than others?

4. I read that some guys liked the 2012 year more than all the other years? When I read the specs, etc. it didn't look any different? Am I missing something?

5. Lastly, if you were me, what would be the key things I should check before pulling the trigger on a used sale (modified or not).

THANKS AGAIN! MUCH APPRECIATED! (Currently drive extremely clean unmodified 2013 CTS-V Red Coupe, drove modified BMW, Z06, etc.)

 

[GT-Rpilot]

1. Others with more powerful cars can chime in, but i would be a bit apprehensive of a stock trans on anything past FBO (full bolt ons). Of course a lot of this depends on the owner - a babied upgraded turbo car will likely have a trans in better shape than even a stock car whose owner launched it incessantly.

2. Get to know some other forum members in the area you are looking at - many guys here are glad to help out by checking out local deals for members outside the area (within reason of course).

3. AMS and Switzer are the most prominent "turnkey" packages, but there are a lot of reputable vendors who can put together a great package based on your budget (Too many to list here so check vendor reviews section). You can also shop smart on your own if you put in the research.

4. Power-wise all GT-R year models are basically created equal at FBO. CBA = pre 2012, DBA = 2012 and up. DBA was the major model refresh, highlights include revised suspension, HP increase, slightly updated front and rear, interior updates, etc. General consensus is get a 2012+ if you can for the overall improvements. If its about price and you are modding anyway (and dont care about the updates) then get a CBA.

5. Best thing you can do is get a potential car in for a PPI (pre purchase inspection) at a GT-R certified dealer or GT-R performance shop you trust. They will be able to inspect and pull data on the car to show whether it has been taken care of for the most part.

Best of luck in your search!

 

[humdizzle]

1. There is no way to tell. I have a CBA i just sold and i launched about 10-15x over the course of 3 years. That didn't show up on the service report however. Maybe because i'm FBO ?? From what i've read (and i believe shep has a video on this) the 2012+ has beefier trans components.

2. Only way to be sure is to see the car in person. Unless you know a detailer or someone extremely particular about paintwork to take a look and drive the car.

3. Talk to the owner. I would trust a guy who did bolt ons himself and knows the inner workings of the car over a shop job where the seller knows nothing about the car. You can usually tell in 5 minutes of talking to the owner if they know their car.

4. I'd say stick with a 2012+, lots of upgrades over the CBA and for the money they are going for there is no reason not to.

 

[Wantagtr]

1. Others with more powerful cars can chime in, but i would be a bit apprehensive of a stock trans on anything past FBO (full bolt ons). Of course a lot of this depends on the owner - a babied upgraded turbo car will likely have a trans in better shape than even a stock car whose owner launched it incessantly.

2. Get to know some other forum members in the area you are looking at - many guys here are glad to help out by checking out local deals for members outside the area (within reason of course).

3. AMS and Switzer are the most prominent "turnkey" packages, but there are a lot of reputable vendors who can put together a great package based on your budget (Too many to list here so check vendor reviews section). You can also shop smart on your own if you put in the research.

4. Power-wise all GT-R year models are basically created equal at FBO. CBA = pre 2012, DBA = 2012 and up. DBA was the major model refresh, highlights include revised suspension, HP increase, slightly updated front and rear, interior updates, etc. General consensus is get a 2012+ if you can for the overall improvements. If its about price and you are modding anyway (and dont care about the updates) then get a CBA.

5. Best thing you can do is get a potential car in for a PPI (pre purchase inspection) at a GT-R certified dealer or GT-R performance shop you trust. They will be able to inspect and pull data on the car to show whether it has been taken care of for the most part.

Best of luck in your search!

Thanks for the solid advice and information. Much appreciated!

 

[Wantagtr]

1. There is no way to tell. I have a CBA i just sold and i launched about 10-15x over the course of 3 years. That didn't show up on the service report however. Maybe because i'm FBO ?? From what i've read (and i believe shep has a video on this) the 2012+ has beefier trans components.

2. Only way to be sure is to see the car in person. Unless you know a detailer or someone extremely particular about paintwork to take a look and drive the car.

3. Talk to the owner. I would trust a guy who did bolt ons himself and knows the inner workings of the car over a shop job where the seller knows nothing about the car. You can usually tell in 5 minutes of talking to the owner if they know their car.

4. I'd say stick with a 2012+, lots of upgrades over the CBA and for the money they are going for there is no reason not to.

Thanks, for the advice. Definitely looking at '12+. Will try to find an enthusiast that will hopefully be honest, etc. I always was dead honest about the cars I have sold. Can't argue with integrity

 

[droptopp]

When it comes to purchasing I would recommend a 2012+ because they are basically the same price as a clean low mileage CBA.

No dyno reads the same and the transmission livelihood all comes down to the tune and the ramp up of tq. If it's a reputable tuner, nothing to worry about even at 720/600. Stock clutches don't handle over 600 mustang dyno well.

When you buy the car, get a PPI from a local shop or a dealer.

Everyone is afraid about transmissions from the bad rap they got early on from launching without cool downs. DBA software has that built into it along with a standalone vdc module.

A rebuild for a stock transmission is almost insignificant for these cars these days - $2895.
http://sheptrans.com/product/gtr-r35/gtr-r35-transmission-rebuild-stage-1/

Stage 2 is under $6k -
http://sheptrans.com/product/gtr-r35/gtr-r35-transmission-rebuild-stage-2/

Forgot to mention the DBA's ride better, have better audio, better mfd and have the drls.

Buy it and mod away. No other car on the road can make use of the hp the way even a stock R35 can.

 

[Wantagtr]

When it comes to purchasing I would recommend a 2012+ because they are basically the same price as a clean low mileage CBA.

No dyno reads the same and the transmission livelihood all comes down to the tune and the ramp up of tq. If it's a reputable tuner, nothing to worry about even at 720/600. Stock clutches don't handle over 600 mustang dyno well.

When you buy the car, get a PPI from a local shop or a dealer.

Everyone is afraid about transmissions from the bad rap they got early on from launching without cool downs. DBA software has that built into it along with a standalone vdc module.

A rebuild for a stock transmission is almost insignificant for these cars these days - $2895.
http://sheptrans.com...ebuild-stage-1/

Stage 2 is under $6k -
http://sheptrans.com...ebuild-stage-2/

Forgot to mention the DBA's ride better, have better audio, better mfd and have the drls.

Buy it and mod away. No other car on the road can make use of the hp the way even a stock R35 can.

Awesome! I am getting psyched!!