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So difficult to find good info via the search so I will just ask. For those with real knowledge and/or experience, which brake pads have you found work well on a GT-R with a stock engine. I have sway bars, JRZ RS Pro Silents(800/530 springs), adjustable front control arms and will soon be upgrading to 2012 calipers up front 290mm AP J-hooks and AP J-hooks in the rear. I have run the original J-hooks up front as well as slotted all around too. I used to run Carbotech XP12 all around and also have used CL RC6E which were nice but ate up my rotors pretty good. I have also used Hawk DTC-70/60 F/R. All of this was with OEM Dunlops, R888s or PSSs...

I'm going to start running 18" Hoosier R100s or other slicks soon. I've heard of some using Carbotech XP20/16 front and rear on slicks. Thoughts? Other options within Carbotech or any other brands? I will swap pads out for street use too. Any issue if I swap from XP20/16 to XP8s for street use with no resurface/cleaning? Thoughts on best setup to do if I use on street occasionally?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Pagid rs 29 ,all around,track and street,they last,they grip,they don't squeal and their expensive
10000km + 3 track days,I like them a lot

Ap j hooks,and fresh air supply to stillen active cooling syst( fans directing air to rotor caliper

Marc
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Pagid rs 29 ,all around,track and street,they last,they grip,they don't squeal and their expensive
10000km + 3 track days,I like them a lot
I am looking for the best performing pad with my setup on the track with slicks. I am ok with it being a track only pad. Is the RS29 a better performer than the RC6E or XP20/16 with slicks? Thx
 

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I have heard 2 sources say that XP12 is a better choice than XP20 or 16 because it wears longer and less abrasive. A mutual friend of ours burned up a front set of XP20's in 2 days at Laguna Seca and says he will be going back to XP12's. For endurance, if you don't have brake cooling, go with CL RC6E. If you're not overheating the brakes go with Carbotech XP12. I have not tried Hawks or Pagids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have heard 2 sources say that XP12 is a better choice than XP20 or 16 because it wears longer and less abrasive. A mutual friend of ours burned up a front set of XP20's in 2 days at Laguna Seca and says he will be going back to XP12's. For endurance, if you don't have brake cooling, go with CL RC6E. If you're not overheating the brakes go with Carbotech XP12. I have not tried Hawks or Pagids.
Good to know. I was wondering how his XP20s worked out. I think I may opt for the Willall cooling system if others recommend it. If it cools the brakes enough it should pay for itself in the long term by extending pad life and improve performance too. How has it worked out for you? Ever run the system in really hot conditions like it gets here in the summer?
 

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I am looking for the best performing pad with my setup on the track with slicks. I am ok with it being a track only pad. Is the RS29 a better performer than the RC6E or XP20/16 with slicks? Thx
You are essentially increasing the amount of heat your brakes have deal with by using slicks. Do you have any temperature data for your brake use? Maybe try out XP12s and if you fade them then replace with something more aggressive. I went through this process in the thread below.

http://www.nagtroc.o...w/page__st__100

I found that RB makes a pretty decent pad (the XT970) that I wasn't able to fade. One thing is for sure, whichever manufacturer you decide to go with for a dedicated track pad, you should never get the compromise compound. Get the most aggressive they have to offer.

Hammad
 

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Why not just run the Hawk DTC70/60 combo you have already tried? Brakes well, easy on rotors and they are very inexpensive, plus they work fine on the street for me. You can pay 2 to 4 times as much for pads as the Hawks, and I can guarantee you no pad will last 2-4 times longer on track than the Hawks.I have used Pagid RS19's and 29's on other cars. Great pad, but crazy expensive for the GT-R compared to the Hawks. I bought a bunch of sets of the Hawk HB650U.730 DTC-70 front pads for under $300 a set. Hard to beat that.

Only thing you really need is brake cooling. I have the Stillen fan kit. Better than nothing, but not fantastic.

Slicks are going to put a lot more strain on your drivetrain than R-compounds. And you are going to need a lot more camber, so if yo go back to street tires, you need two alignments per track day. Slicks might only last 1 full track day. Why do you need to go that much faster? Money no object? I ran with tons of P-cars on Michelin and Hoosier slicks back in May and I passed them all, and I was running on Nittos NT-01's. Slicks cost them thousands per day. I don't get it for a lapping day.
 

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Stillen fan kit does not work on metal rotors, unless you come to a near standstill. The fans do not blow enough air across the large gap between the fan outlets and the rotors.
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/topic/44973-stillen-active-brake-cooling-kit-results/

Willall cooling kit works. I recommend not wiring it to the Vehicle Speed Sensor, but rather to just have it activate whenever you use the brakes.
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/topic/61425-willall-gtr-brake-cooling-system-track-results-updated/page__fromsearch__1
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Why not just run the Hawk DTC70/60 combo you have already tried? Brakes well, easy on rotors and they are very inexpensive, plus they work fine on the street for me. You can pay 2 to 4 times as much for pads as the Hawks, and I can guarantee you no pad will last 2-4 times longer on track than the Hawks.I have used Pagid RS19's and 29's on other cars. Great pad, but crazy expensive for the GT-R compared to the Hawks. I bought a bunch of sets of the Hawk HB650U.730 DTC-70 front pads for under $300 a set. Hard to beat that.

Only thing you really need is brake cooling. I have the Stillen fan kit. Better than nothing, but not fantastic.

Slicks are going to put a lot more strain on your drivetrain than R-compounds. And you are going to need a lot more camber, so if yo go back to street tires, you need two alignments per track day. Slicks might only last 1 full track day. Why do you need to go that much faster? Money no object? I ran with tons of P-cars on Michelin and Hoosier slicks back in May and I passed them all, and I was running on Nittos NT-01's. Slicks cost them thousands per day. I don't get it for a lapping day.
I have adjustable control arms up front so I can get the camber I need and I do have two alignments more or less - it worked well on my long trip with PSSs. I don't necessarily plan to run slicks all of the time but I will be doing some time trials and in the classes the GT-R runs running slicks is helpful. I want to have a "fastest" setup of wheels, tires, pads etc handy and then a more budget friendly setup with cheaper tires etc. Running PSSs is definitely the budget way to go... Oh, and I may be going to the Willall brake cooling system which should help longevity.
 

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Slicks are going to put a lot more strain on your drivetrain than R-compounds. And you are going to need a lot more camber, so if yo go back to street tires, you need two alignments per track day. Slicks might only last 1 full track day. Why do you need to go that much faster? Money no object? I ran with tons of P-cars on Michelin and Hoosier slicks back in May and I passed them all, and I was running on Nittos NT-01's. Slicks cost them thousands per day. I don't get it for a lapping day.
He has JRZ coilovers, adjustable suspension arms and track alignment. He's running 285 square on street, so will be able to rotate tires to even out wear. Slicks are used when you are competing with other GT-R's with slicks.
 

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Do you have any data on the Stillen Active Cooling kit with metal rotors? I know Shawnhayes said he experienced a difference with the Stillen kit on CCX brakes and not his metal rotors.

If you dont have fresh air supply to the Stillen Act.cooling kit from let say Apr lip with air holes, it doesn't work, but this year with the lip it seem to make a BIG difference, my last track day at mont tremblant ,my new paid pads had lost just a bit of color,still yellowish,

You are essentially increasing the amount of heat your brakes have deal with by using slicks. Do you have any temperature data for your brake use? Maybe try out XP12s and if you fade them then replace with something more aggressive. I went through this process in the thread below.

http://www.nagtroc.o...w/page__st__100

I found that RB makes a pretty decent pad (the XT970) that I wasn't able to fade. One thing is for sure, whichever manufacturer you decide to go with for a dedicated track pad, you should never get the compromise compound. Get the most aggressive they have to offer.

Hammad
 

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@Jmunjr
Any news?
I had tried now Hawk dtc-70 front pad with slicks, but after few hard laps melted pads, boiled brake fluid, and went to brake fade(almost no brake)
This pads good for street, lower noise and better initial brake force than xp12, but on the track overheated fast.
In the last 3 years I ran xp12 front pad with R888, and never had any brake fade or brake failure.
I run pirelli slicks now, I looking for new better pads for front, my rear xp12 have good condtion, not melted, rotor is nice, front worn out after 13k km(very high speed street use) and 10session on the track.
Anybody experience with xp16 front pads whit slicks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I went to an Alcon setup so can't report on any new findings, but based on my experience I enjoyed the xp12s the best though they were noisy at times
 

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The driver is most surely the limiting factor on my car but I am faster on R6's than on R100's on both high speed tracks (Road ATL) and lower speed tracks (Barber, AMP) and the R6's are cheaper and last longer. Also, the GT-R likes taller tires for higher speeds, 18's are going the wrong direction. If Hoosier made 20" R6's I'd be in the market for new track wheels.
 
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