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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got alignment done and they got everything into the specs from this doc (see attached image)
Which i found here after search says it was likely recommended specs from Nissan.

The align guys said that since I don't have adjustable arms on rear, they can't get the rear camber lower than -2.3 (can't get closer to -1.76)

is this .5 degree gonna mess with me at the track? I am trying to bring the car more neutral/less understeer heavy...

Here are the car's current mods
Car is 2015 premium
  • KW coilover sleeve kit
  • SPL camber caster upper arms
  • whiteline bumpsteer/roll center kit
  • whiteline swaybar kit
  • carbon ceramic ceramic brake kit
  • tires are square setup NT01 285/35ZR20 (100Y) about 100 treadwear

    Font Screenshot Rectangle Number Parallel
 

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I would live with 2.3 on the rear. If it's just a track car, maybe rethink, but every highway mile wears the inside, so it's a matter of your road miles vs. your specific track(s) wear on the outside.
 

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Raise the rear up is another option if you need less camber in the rear. I probably would run 1.8-2.
 

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Renley,

What are your final alignment numbers?

Anytime you lower suspension you will get more negative camber front and rear. So much negative camber that you won't be able to return back to normal GTR range without adding suspension parts. As a result you will get much more wear on the inner tire treads on the front with any street driving, simple compromise and not a big problem if you don't daily drive.

More front negative camber is good for track or autocross and will allow you better use of the front tires for performance driving, but in the rear you won't be able to get much better than -2 degrees with a 1" drop. More negative if you drop more so yes you can adjust and drop less if you want. I would keep front and rear drop to be equal and live with more rear negative camber, -2.3 degrees is OK. I have 1" drop with lowering springs and get -2 degrees for autocross and street driving and it's OK on the rear tires but I don't drive that much daily. Mostly I wear out my front tires (outer treads) like crazy and I have a square setup so I rotate and flip tires front to rear for better wear.

On the track see how your handling feels to you, adjust swaybars as needed to reduce any oversteer. Stiffen rear bar if you have too much oversteer. Goal is to get mild controllable oversteer if any. Understeer has to do with your driving skill so mild stiffening of front bar is all that is needed most of time.

Good luck at the track.
 

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You've got a great setup there. I would expect your settings to feel pretty good on track with 285 square. What setting do you have on the rear swaybar? if I remember the whiteline has adjustments
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It does have adjustments. And I have it set to the middle.

I am probably not going to adjust those until after the next track day.

I just finished a 24 Hours of Lemons race, So I probably won't be back to the racetrack for a couple of weeks.

But as soon as I get the car out there again I'll let everybody know.

I'm also trying to figure out all of the ECUtek options

And how to use this DSC sport controller :p

(When people said the GTR was a programmable race car I wasn't ready for this level of configurations! My last race car was an Evo, And yes it was fast but it was also doing it through sheer force of will) lolol
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I will see how it changes, But based on some of the other cars the track.. I may end up giving my GTR a rear-end bias. All the other cars I erase are purely rear wheel drive, And I feel like that gives me the best rotation.

The Audi R8 I drive It's right around 15% to the front leaving 85% of the rear... It's a bit too rear end happy for me, But hot damn does it turn better than my GTR.

I also have absolutely no downforce enhancements.

And I have the stock springs, So the car does lean a bit too much.

I won't be changing that, because I'm happy to take the extra lean on the track for the comfort around town.
 

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The GTR is already rear end bias, up to 50% power is sent to the front on starting up or if traction to rear is not hooking up, but power only lasts as long as needed briefly to get the rear wheels to regain traction then it is less power to front and all power goes back to the rear as soon as possible. This actually can work well especially if you give your GTR tires that give as much possible grip on both front and rear.

Having the optimal alignment helps you use the front tires more at all times especially during cornering during tight turns or at speed on the inside tire. The natural occurance is that on the inside turning tire you use a lot of outer tread so it overheats and wears fast/excessively. But with more front negative camber the goal is to use more of the inner tread on the inside tire and help distribute heat and wear better for overall better traction and tire life.

Rear wheel bias is fine and if you adjust your alignment and suspension for your driving skill level you might get controllable oversteer which you can use on the track or anywhere else. If you can't control the oversteer then you can dial it back with swaybar settings or adjust for less rear negative camber or get more grip from your rear tires.
 
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