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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Theories on how they were taken? Given this is a public forum, I'd be careful about over-sharing personal configuration.

Fob Cloning, ECU swap or other?

John-
 

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Based on the two thefts, like previously mentioned, the kill switch would be the mitigation that would likely defeat any start-up attempts even after an ECU swap.

Someone on FB mentioned faraday boxes or shields/bags but it's unlikely anything RF related is happening because glass was broken. If they were extending the key fobs or capturing traffic using Wireshark or some type of packet capture for reuse later, they would just unlock the car without forceful entry.

The other two scenarios mentioned are ECU swap and reprogramming via OBD2 port to utilize key fobs already in their possession. Some type of fortification to restrict physical access to those two areas or limit the ability to unplug the ECU pigtails would be worth looking at.
 

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I agree with you L.L., but in my opinion, if they are at your ECU with tools they're already in too far.

Are they doing this so quick that an alarm isn't a deterrent? If so, kill switch of some sort is a must assuming people park in public spaces for work. (Thank goodness where I work is gated with armed guards).

-Rich
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Depending on modifications could making swapping an ECU a challenge.
This is what I was thinking as well - Unless mods are known before hand! AND the thief has a tuning solution to build a map to match a car's mods.

Pretty sure my car won't even start with an OEM ECU swap - even if I left my cobb AP in, they couldn't (shouldn't) be able to re-flash my map? or could they? Where does the cobb VIN match/lock come from? I've always assumed the ECU.

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Kill switch is really the only solution. Guarding the OBD2 and ECU with something to "keep and honest man honest" isn't going to work if they've already gone that far. Not much beats a well hidden killswitch, except a tow-truck, which if they show up with that then you gotta at least respect their hustle.
 

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I’m wondering about this also. Didn’t even think a ecu swap would work.I know you wouldn’t be able to drive my car with a stock ecu.! In for more info though
I don't think just an ECU swap will do it. The ignition and key FOB still functions in the car with Motec. Seems like the ignition and system that recognizes specific fob would need to be swapped if a clone wasn't done. Or they could've just used a flat bed.
 

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Brings back the hellcat theft for me. Hellcat takes all of about 20 seconds to steal and that’s if they are taking their time.

Laptops and reprogramming keys once you have the program is as easy as it gets. Been going on for years with Mercedes and Dodge. Wonder why it took so long for the R35 honestly.

If they want it they will put it on a flat bed and not even worry about dragging it up the ramp with an alarm going off.

Only guaranteed solution for theft is to make sure you have an agreed value policy. A spare phone or an air tag or two if you want to bust them is the easiest.

FWIW - my hellcat was never recovered. Assuming the powertrain made it’s way into one of Rick Ross’ swaps or the 300C’s that are so popular these days or just cruising around with a V6 vin swap.
 

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I agree with you L.L., but in my opinion, if they are at your ECU with tools they're already in too far.
Kill switch is really the only solution. Guarding the OBD2 and ECU with something to "keep and honest man honest" isn't going to work if they've already gone that far.
I agree with you guys that is "in too far" in terms of ideal prevention. It's simply an impediment to someone not expecting it. Employ the kill switch and it'll cost them even more time or prevent it all together.

Small victories with buying time for your car and psychological shifts in your favor may spook thieves and thwart attempts so don't be too quick to dismiss small things. Just because they penetrate the perimeter layer doesn't mean you make it easy for them once inside. I'd assume that's not how we think for HD/SD so why is this any different especially in states where the car is an extension of the home?

Pretty soon they'll just skip directly to using tow trucks as they did in SoCal to steal Hondas which then ended up in Mexico in a matter of minutes. If they were willing to go to those lengths to steal a $30k car, why would they not do the same for $200k+ projects?

A local tuning shop owner mentioned a customer's GTR was stolen recently. Upon recovery, the owner's old key fobs were no longer being recognized. How it got to that state with the key fobs is still unknown.
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
@droptopp - ^ That was a good read, thanks for the link! I'll definitely look into some signal blocking device for my keys.

Per information about the Dallas thefts, the windows were broken/cut out. So does that bit of information indicate a fob clone attack from inside the car instead of signal boosting?

Starting to think my next mod will be a high end alarm system.

John-
 

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The AirTag works for a short period, but Im sure they are quickly disabled. Any recommendations on GPS trackers that are LTE based?

I used to track an enclosed trailer with a SPOT trace, but the updates weren't that fast.
 

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Im subscribed. Im in dfw area so definitely nervous. From what i read it seems the two gtrs may have been targeted and followed with one leaving cars and coffee so seems thieves going to events now to find what they want. Makes sense i guess
 

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The AirTag works for a short period, but Im sure they are quickly disabled. Any recommendations on GPS trackers that are LTE based?

I used to track an enclosed trailer with a SPOT trace, but the updates weren't that fast.
Drop a spare cell phone in the trunk and run a power cord to it. Nobody will find it. They are mostly likely worried about getting the engine and trans out as quick as they can or get it loaded into a container.

But like I said, previously have an agreed value policy on the car in the first place.
 

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Viper smart start is what I’ve been using for about 7 years now. Also, you gotta go old school on the wiring like car alarms used to be in the 80s and 90s. Having a relay to break the circuit on the starter side would probably be more effective than the ignition switch. The circuit on the push button start so simple. It’s just a ground wire. So assuming you had the correct key fob or programming a hardwire break in the circuit will be the most effective.
 
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