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Tokyo Nightmare
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I pulled both the driver and passenger side, here's some info with pics !

Passenger side was very easy, I took the power steering pump of the bracket to get to the top bolts. I was able to get to the top bolt with a deep well 3/8 drive 12mm.

For the bottom I had to use a 1/4 driver with a 12mm socket, the 3/8 just was to big preventing the socket to be lined up right.

I used 6pt sockets to prevent rounding the heads.

This was also handy in putting back the car together: Craftsman 10 pc. Magnetic Socket Inserts, the kept the studs from falling out when installing the new pipes.
http://www.sears.com...=2&blockType=G2

Tools:
3/8 drive 12mm socket (6 point)
1/4 driver 12mm socket (6 point)
3/8 and 1/4 Flex Head Rachets
Long straight and 45 deg needle nose pliers.
Thread lock compound for the inlet studs/nut: http://www.jpcycles.com/product/900-296?utm_source=PLAs&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CIDy-q_Wp7YCFQ_pnAodvR4AXw

Note: Prior to removing the inlets, the upper intercooler piping was completely removed for easier access to the inlets. If you have questions on this step please PM me.

Before pump removed:


Here you can see the PS pump unbolted and moved to the side:


Here's a pic with inlet pipe removed:


Ok, time for the driver side inlet pipe removal.



This was a little more challenging than the passenger.

1st thing I noticed was the coolant overflow was right in the way, so I unbolted it and moved it over with all the hoses still connected.



Unbolting the top nut was pretty easy, I slid a conbination of 12" and a 3" extension between the block on the AC Compressor lines.

Couple turns and it was out, now for the bottom, well this was a bit more difficult. I tried gettign to it from the engine bay with a series of different extensions and swivels etc and nothing worked.

I stated taking out the underpanels of the car, hoping to see an access point to get a socket in there. After removing under panel, through the fender well I noticed the bottom bolt.

From here I took the same extension used above and a short 6pt socket with a swivel and it was out in minutes.

Next I disconnected the vacuum line connected to the compressor housing, accessing from the fender well and then the vacuum line connected to the wastegate groing from the boost solenoid.



I pulled up on the inlet pipe and disconnected the haness on the solenoid and pulled the inlet assembly out of the car.





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Thanks for the info on this and the other parts. How long did it take you to do the entire install?
 

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Tokyo Nightmare
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would say 8hrs including swapping the injectors.
 

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Getting the drivers side out after it is unbolted is a bitch, getting to those vac linesoff are hard also.
 

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Tokyo Nightmare
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
getting the driver side is easier if you slowly turn the pipe while angling the top back towards the firewall when pulling out.

But yes it's tricky!
 

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How much were the 2012 inlets? Got any pics of them?
 

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wow! nice write up. today i will install it, i will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the tips and illustration.
 

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wow! nice write up. today i will install it, i will let you know how it goes.
Thanks for the tips and illustration.
How did it go?
 

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Tokyo Nightmare
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
How much were the 2012 inlets? Got any pics of them?
I bought them from Eric @ Boulder Nissan, best price I found and fast shipping.

Pics:




A pic while I was polishing it:
Before:


75% Complete:


I forgot to take a completed one!!!
 

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LiMiTLeSs
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Yeah, the passenger side is a bitch! We had to use a mirror to get the bolt on to the turbo outlet.
 

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Is a new gasket required to be installed since the 2012 pipes are larger diameter?

Any tips on reinstalling the pipes and the order they should go in and re-attaching vacuum lines?
 

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On the photo with the screwdriver pointing to the lower bolt on the driver's side pipe...what did you mean by "ratchet pointing to the rear of car"? What ratchet?

Also, from where (what angle and location) did you take this photo?

Great DIY pictorial!

Thanks
 

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tripleJs15, thanks a lot for all your help and support!

Here is what worked for me better since I am not a very experienced mechanic, I am actually a software engineer


1. If you remove driver's side wheel and jack up the car, you can easily access the lower bolt with 1/4 flex ratchet and no extension.
2. I dropped nuts several times and this took additional 1-2 hours to find those, so it will probably help if you remove under cover from the beginning or just try to be careful. I also found that using simple scotch tape worked much better than magnet inserts when putting the car together ;)
3. To remove power steering pump you have to get a breaker bar. I got it from sears as well as all the other extensions for the job like 12in 1/4 and 12in 3/8
4. I failed to put back a bracket that goes into solenoid electrical connector on driver's side. So, make sure you put it in place FIRST! I am not sure what to do now


Is this mod worth spending 10 hours on? If you want to know everything about the car and be able to change oil and mid-mipe then it is well worth it! Right after this job I was even able to put a turbo kit on my EVO X in 4 hours
 

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Tokyo Nightmare
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was wondering what happened to you!

Glad too help!
 

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Very valuable info for the rest of us.....keep up the good work.
 

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If you can access the lower bolt on the driver's side from underneath by lifting the car and removing the driver's side wheel (and the inner wheel well liner I would guess), can the lower bolt on the passenger's side be also accessed from underneath by removing the passenger's side wheel (and inner wheel well liner I would guess) which would save unbolting the power steering pump?

To unbolt the power steering pump, I would guess you first have to remove the surpentine belt? Sorry, lots of guessing here!
 

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I'm on the last leg of this install and i seriously thought about throwing an Inlet pipe through my windshield. Getting the drivers side pipe back in is ridiculously hard.
 

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so glad i am having a pro work put it on for me...
 

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As for the passenger's side. Unfortunately, you cannot access the lower bolt through the wheel well even though you can see it clearly. Actually, steering pump is pretty easy to do. Just move the pump to the side and leave the belt in place, don't remove it.
IMPORTANT: Use 3/4 breaker bar and a small screw driver to move belt tensioner BEFORE touching steering pump.
 
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