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Atilla39
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys - relative Newbie & apologize for such a basic set of questions. I am looking for details on changing the various Flids in the GTR; Becaue of their routine nature, I got the engine oil & filter, engine coolent - drain and flush - Freon 134 ? charge, etc.
But i don't see anything in th owners manual about how to check for tansmission oil levels, or diffs. I have bits and pieces of the Shop manuals, but some of it doesn't make any sense. ie. on the trans; It says to remove the fill and drain plug and add trans fluid R-35 till it runs out the drain hole, but the drain plug is the low point, so wouldn't it run out of there pretty quickly - befopre any adequare fill - Another location in the pubs indicated there a fill tube in connection with the drain plug, which would make sense that it was filled till it hit the top of the fill tube and out the drain plug hole - but I don't have a fill tube at the drin plug in my 2009.
And yetr another location, say to fill until you can put your finger inside the fill hole and feel the level. I didn't find anything on the trans or diffs that i could fit my finger in, and that it relatively in preciuse, since you finger will be getting oily going in and hard to detec the oil level.
And lastly - since there isn't a fill tube from above for the trans or either diffs, I imagine that all 3 liquids have to be pumped in ?

Many thanks,
 

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I'm watching this too as I'm interested in more clarity. I'm not up to that mileage yet but it would be great to have a game plan set for when the time comes as I'd like to do it myself.
 

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Hi Guys - relative Newbie & apologize for such a basic set of questions. I am looking for details on changing the various Flids in the GTR; Becaue of their routine nature, I got the engine oil & filter, engine coolent - drain and flush - Freon 134 ? charge, etc.
But i don't see anything in th owners manual about how to check for tansmission oil levels, or diffs. I have bits and pieces of the Shop manuals, but some of it doesn't make any sense. ie. on the trans; It says to remove the fill and drain plug and add trans fluid R-35 till it runs out the drain hole, but the drain plug is the low point, so wouldn't it run out of there pretty quickly - befopre any adequare fill - Another location in the pubs indicated there a fill tube in connection with the drain plug, which would make sense that it was filled till it hit the top of the fill tube and out the drain plug hole - but I don't have a fill tube at the drin plug in my 2009.
And yetr another location, say to fill until you can put your finger inside the fill hole and feel the level. I didn't find anything on the trans or diffs that i could fit my finger in, and that it relatively in preciuse, since you finger will be getting oily going in and hard to detec the oil level.
And lastly - since there isn't a fill tube from above for the trans or either diffs, I imagine that all 3 liquids have to be pumped in ?

Many thanks,
Transmission:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/topic/49613-how-to-change-the-tranny-oil/page__view__findpost__p__682273

Front diff:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=43325

Rear diff is similar to the front diff, with the procedure. The rear diff drain plug is on the bottom, and the fill plug is on the passenger side near the axle.

Shawn
 

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Atilla39
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Shawn,
Many thanks for the detailed follow -up. I am going out to the shop shortly and put this all together visually. I can tell from the nu,ber of viewers, that many others will appreciate your help as well.
the one thing that I didn't see in my quickl scan was the actaul method to fil any of these fluids - given that there is little room and over head - there must be some type of pump / syring to for the oil up and into the fill hole. ?

And I know this will sound crazy, but from the shop manual drawings that I saw the fill tube and drain plug on the trans are concentric pieces screwed in together, i.e the drain plug fits into the center outlet of the fill tube, so I should see ( for example ) a 15 mm hex for the fill tube base screwed into the pan - and in the center of that 15 mm tube hex a 10 mm in the center of that for the drain plug. But I will double check later - are they in the same location or different locations on the trans oil pan ? All I have on the bottom of the pan is the drain plug, and when I took it out all I got was about 30 cc of green oil. Not running engine till I sort this out and refill - not to worry.

Many thanks again.

Allen
 

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2010 Black Premium
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112 Posts
And I know this will sound crazy, but from the shop manual drawings that I saw the fill tube and drain plug on the trans are concentric pieces screwed in together, i.e the drain plug fits into the center outlet of the fill tube, so I should see ( for example ) a 15 mm hex for the fill tube base screwed into the pan - and in the center of that 15 mm tube hex a 10 mm in the center of that for the drain plug. But I will double check later - are they in the same location or different locations on the trans oil pan ? All I have on the bottom of the pan is the drain plug, and when I took it out all I got was about 30 cc of green oil. Not running engine till I sort this out and refill - not to worry.
Here are some points that might answer your questions:
- To completely drain the transmission you remove the ENTIRE assembly at the bottom - the drain plug and fill tube. That allows all (or most) of the fluid to exit.
- To refill you install the drain tube which goes up into the pan and sets the fluid level - like the tank in back of the toilet. You fill the transmission until fluid rises to over the top of the fill tube and starts to spill out. When done you install the drain plug which then blocks the flow completely.
- There is ANOTHER hole up higher on the transmission that you actually insert the fluid into. That's where you'll insert the tube from your pump.

Read instructions here:
http://www.speedfors...ionFluidGTR.pdf
 

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Atilla39
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Shawn,
Yes, YEs, YES !!! It really help to have the right input from fellow members - AND the correct documentation. I have had only the GI- general Information Section - Maint. section and the Owners Manual. The manula section shows a fill cap just like for the engine poil system, and has a cartoon of the mechanic checking the dip stick.
With the CORRECT information that you sent me - it all made perfect sense. The drip tube was a second of mystery, I am used to the wier conbcept for filling machinery ( excellent example the toilet ) but I have always had a visabile Hex with a concentric Hex - not tucked up inside, and invisable against the drips of oil coming oil.
I was starting to question the entire set of doics, and my own fatigue afctor - since I have just finished putting in a Greddy trans cooler system - parts parts off and all - everything was up on the lift and clearly visable - and I can't reconcile this flipping guy with a dip stick and a oil filler tube ?? Bloody.
 

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Atilla39
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29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sloppy keyboard work. Sent prematurely--

obviously, the small amount of oil that I got from the trans when I drained it and the rear diff, were from the n ormal over fill that occurs when you do the HOT re-checks after 5 mins of warm up.
Shawn, many thanks again - and for everyone else - follow these direction and refer to the Drivetrain section of the Pubs, and NOT - the Maint pages that someone FAX's you - why is there is there even a section called ATF change - with a guy, dip stick, and filler neck.

Thanks again - now that I have a firm grasp of the basics - and not loosing my mind - onto the COBB Secondary oil cooler which I have to shoe horn into the left front along with the Greddy Trans cooler core - EASY, compared to trans oil change.

Regards,

Allen
 

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Details,

Trans drain plug and fill tube are both 5mm hex.

All other plugs (both diff drains, and fill plugs, and transmission fill plug are 10mm hex).

10 mm hex seems like overkill, buying just for plugs, but it also fits the brake caliper bolts.

Shawn
 

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10 mm hex seems like over-kill until you see how much torque the factory puts on those plugs! I had to do some serious wrenching to get a few off.
 

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10 mm hex seems like over-kill until you see how much torque the factory puts on those plugs! I had to do some serious wrenching to get a few off.
I think they use some sort of sealant/threadlocker. The crush washers haven't been incredibly deformed, which they would if they overtorqued.

Shawn
 
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