Nissan GT-R Forum banner
1 - 20 of 911 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
I purchased my 2009 GTR Premium (~5,600 miles) 3 weeks ago from a buddy of mine and have been accumulating parts for my build. The car came with a Cobb catless midpipe and Cobb V2 Accessport. I have been fabricating and tuning for ~16 years and do most of my work in the garage. You can check out the links in my signature documenting my EVO IX build and results.

The goal of my build is to make 580+whp for under $3K so I will be providing pricing information and detailed pictures for each step. Below is my mod list and build plan:

Phase I
- DIY 3" intake with high flow filters ($170)
- DIY 3.5" exhaust (from Cobb midpipe to stock exhaust where it splits into two) ($186)
- Cobb AccessTUNER Race ($695)
- Baseline tune - ME TUNED
- ID1000cc injectors ($375 shipped - used 2400 miles)
- Denso 265lph pumps ($300 shipped)
- Baseline dyno run on Dynojet

Phase II
- Curt Brown Ported 2013 turbo inlets ($450)
- Curt Brown Ported intake manifold ($500)
- Tune - ME TUNED
- Dyno run on Dynojet (before/after results with Curt Brown ported components)

Phase III
- DIY front mount intercooler
- DIY intercooler piping
- Tune - ME TUNED
- Dyno run on Dynojet (final results)

So I started the build today with the DIY 3" intake with the components as follows:
- two 3" 30deg mandrel bent aluminum tubes (purchased from CX Racing Ebay store for $60 shipped)
- two 45deg silicone transition tubes 60mm to 76mm (purchased from best.racing-building Ebay store for $29 shipped)
- two used K&N RU-5111 filtes from forum member ($30 shipped, used for mockup and determining custom filter size)
- two aluminum MAF flanges from GM# 19166574 ($26 from GM)
TOTAL COST: $170 (assuming new RU-5111 filters - $55)

The quality of the tubes from CX Racing are top notch and come polished.



I started on the drivers side by removing the stock intake box. In order to gain clearance for the silicone tube you need to flip the harness connector so that it places the harness on the backside of the bracket as shown below.


I then installed the 45deg coupler and installed the tube to determine fit. The aluminum tubes come with ~9" legs and the leg on the turbo side is left alone and I only needed to cut the filter side. The tube is a 30deg bend, but to make it come out the front perfectly straight it would need to be ~26-27deg bend. No big deal as it just angle the filter front towards the center of the car or you can use a 3-4deg cut to make the filter face straight. I will be running the filters slightly angled as it creates more room for a longer filter.


For the driver's side pipe I had to cut off ~2.5" to make the filter fit.


Made a simple cut and the intake is done (minus maf) so you can see the outcome below.



On to the passenger side pipe using the same approach. The only difference is that I had to modify the bracket holding the harness and ground wire. Essentially, I cut the bracket to shorten it and then TIG'd it back together to gain clearance for the silicone coupler.






Repeated the cutting and fitting for the passenger side pipe.




I have a total of 2hrs invested at this point which included removing and reinstalling the stock airboxes. I will weld on the flanges Friday to show the finished product. The next mod will be injectors and pumps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
e 85 is a good power adder and way cheaper to run in the long term not sure the availability in your area though you will also be savings tons of $$$ for the labor since you are blessed with wrenching skills
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,563 Posts
how many hrs did it take to put together the pair intake pipes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
how many hrs did it take to put together the pair intake pipes?
Total time invested including removing air boxes, fabricating setup, and reinstalling factory airboxes was ~3.5hrs.

I was bored so I decided to finish the pipes by welding on the aluminum MAF flanges. It took about 1.5hr to cut the MAF opening and weld on the flanges. The pictures speak for themselves and I am done with the DIY Intake. Again, assuming new K&N RU-5111 filters my total cost was $170.




 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Always a fan of DIY. But i just dont see how you can do it for UNDER 3k. You're kind of cheating considering the car came with a over 1k in used parts that add a lot of HP themselves. :p
If I can make the power without the intercooler/ic piping then cost will be well below $3k. If I had to fab a midpipe the cost would still be around $3k minus the intercooler/ic piping.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
243 Posts
Kudos on the DIY. I'm not sure I would go with a long section of silicone on a suction pipe though. You don't usually want soft tubing where it can collapse from suction. I used two 45 mandrel pieces to make each intake and that ran from filter to the inlet pipe with very little fabrication (2 cuts, 1 weld per side).

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using GT-R Life mobile app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
You can weld pretty well it seems so why not lose the silicone bend and go with another pipe bend welded in to make the full intake?

I am interested to see the IC build as I have seriously been considering one after looking at pricing and core size comparisons of aftermarket ones. Done correctly it seems you can wind up with an intercooler rivaling $3500+ pieces for under $1000. Of course the higher price tag does get you proven products with great fit and finish and no personal time invested.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Kudos on the DIY. I'm not sure I would go with a long section of silicone on a suction pipe though. You don't usually want soft tubing where it can collapse from suction. I used two 45 mandrel pieces to make each intake and that ran from filter to the inlet pipe with very little fabrication (2 cuts, 1 weld per side).
I have a 3" 90 deg bend sitting in my scrap box from a previous project so I could easily add this if required. My thought behind using a silicone 45deg transition is that it provide a very smooth transition as opposed to the abrupt size change with the usual straight reducer I see used. You can see in the pic the pipe is pushed into the silicone coupler 2.5" and there is added strength because it is a bend. It is more or less like the SYNAPSE GTR intake. If the filter is size properly the intake should not pull more than 4-5 in Hg so perhaps I can block off each end and use my vacuum pump to pull 4-5 in Hg to see what it does. I will try to do this and report back and if its a problem I can make the change, but I think it will be ok.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,513 Posts
It can be done for less than people think, im @ ~590AWHP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,231 Posts
I am interested to see the IC build as I have seriously been considering one after looking at pricing and core size comparisons of aftermarket ones. Done correctly it seems you can wind up with an intercooler rivaling $3500+ pieces for under $1000. Of course the higher price tag does get you proven products with great fit and finish and no personal time invested.
Having a proven intercooler is somewhat irrelevant as long as you have the flow and efficiency ratings for the core. That is because you size the core based on your ultimate power goals, flow of turbo and core efficiency. Let's say I purchased a core the same size as the AMS Race (22"x14"x4.5") from Bell Intercooler, the cost of the core is $707+shipping. I don't think I will go that big, but if I did the the total cost would be well under $1000. I have been strongly considering the Treadstone core (22"x10"x4.5") for $500, but I may go with a 12" tall core instead. In speaking with Treadstone they are in the process of making GTR cast tanks for that core and will be selling the complete intercooler for under $1000 in ~6months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
I don't suspect the intake pipes have enough suction to collapse reinforced silicone tubing. Especially at a 500-600whp level (or ~250whp per intake, definitely not).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
798 Posts
I'm all for saving money (believe me, I am BIG on finding great deals), and being a DIY'er, however I don't know if I'd go to this extreme on savings for a 60-100k car. If you're able to afford the car, at least use parts that are proven to perform and be safe for your car.

You can go the SBD package route for an inexpensive and proven package, and have the peace of mind that you won't be torpedoing your engine anytime soon.

As an aside - I'd NEVER purchase a car that had these type of 'on the cheap' DIY mods done - would make me think the maintenance, fluids, etc., were all done poorly and/or as cheaply as possible. So you may want to think about this in terms of resale value as well. There are many 'name brand' packages / tuners you can use for a Stage 1 type set up (bolt ons), and the extra few thousand is peanuts in the overall scheme of things for reliability and resale value.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,939 Posts
I'm all for saving money (believe me, I am BIG on finding great deals), and being a DIY'er, however I don't know if I'd go to this extreme on savings for a 60-100k car. If you're able to afford the car, at least use parts that are proven to perform and be safe for your car.

You can go the SBD package route for an inexpensive and proven package, and have the peace of mind that you won't be torpedoing your engine anytime soon.

As an aside - I'd NEVER purchase a car that had these type of 'on the cheap' DIY mods done - would make me think the maintenance, fluids, etc., were all done poorly and/or as cheaply as possible. So you may want to think about this in terms of resale value as well. There are many 'name brand' packages / tuners you can use for a Stage 1 type set up (bolt ons), and the extra few thousand is peanuts in the overall scheme of things for reliability and resale value.
For some, their car is their hobby.
 
1 - 20 of 911 Posts
Top