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DIY700 - 700hp on a Budget

247K views 947 replies 152 participants last post by  240Z TwinTurbo  
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I purchased my 2009 GTR Premium (~5,600 miles) 3 weeks ago from a buddy of mine and have been accumulating parts for my build. The car came with a Cobb catless midpipe and Cobb V2 Accessport. I have been fabricating and tuning for ~16 years and do most of my work in the garage. You can check out the links in my signature documenting my EVO IX build and results.

The goal of my build is to make 580+whp for under $3K so I will be providing pricing information and detailed pictures for each step. Below is my mod list and build plan:

Phase I
- DIY 3" intake with high flow filters ($170)
- DIY 3.5" exhaust (from Cobb midpipe to stock exhaust where it splits into two) ($186)
- Cobb AccessTUNER Race ($695)
- Baseline tune - ME TUNED
- ID1000cc injectors ($375 shipped - used 2400 miles)
- Denso 265lph pumps ($300 shipped)
- Baseline dyno run on Dynojet

Phase II
- Curt Brown Ported 2013 turbo inlets ($450)
- Curt Brown Ported intake manifold ($500)
- Tune - ME TUNED
- Dyno run on Dynojet (before/after results with Curt Brown ported components)

Phase III
- DIY front mount intercooler
- DIY intercooler piping
- Tune - ME TUNED
- Dyno run on Dynojet (final results)

So I started the build today with the DIY 3" intake with the components as follows:
- two 3" 30deg mandrel bent aluminum tubes (purchased from CX Racing Ebay store for $60 shipped)
- two 45deg silicone transition tubes 60mm to 76mm (purchased from best.racing-building Ebay store for $29 shipped)
- two used K&N RU-5111 filtes from forum member ($30 shipped, used for mockup and determining custom filter size)
- two aluminum MAF flanges from GM# 19166574 ($26 from GM)
TOTAL COST: $170 (assuming new RU-5111 filters - $55)

The quality of the tubes from CX Racing are top notch and come polished.
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I started on the drivers side by removing the stock intake box. In order to gain clearance for the silicone tube you need to flip the harness connector so that it places the harness on the backside of the bracket as shown below.
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I then installed the 45deg coupler and installed the tube to determine fit. The aluminum tubes come with ~9" legs and the leg on the turbo side is left alone and I only needed to cut the filter side. The tube is a 30deg bend, but to make it come out the front perfectly straight it would need to be ~26-27deg bend. No big deal as it just angle the filter front towards the center of the car or you can use a 3-4deg cut to make the filter face straight. I will be running the filters slightly angled as it creates more room for a longer filter.
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For the driver's side pipe I had to cut off ~2.5" to make the filter fit.
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Made a simple cut and the intake is done (minus maf) so you can see the outcome below.
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On to the passenger side pipe using the same approach. The only difference is that I had to modify the bracket holding the harness and ground wire. Essentially, I cut the bracket to shorten it and then TIG'd it back together to gain clearance for the silicone coupler.
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Repeated the cutting and fitting for the passenger side pipe.
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I have a total of 2hrs invested at this point which included removing and reinstalling the stock airboxes. I will weld on the flanges Friday to show the finished product. The next mod will be injectors and pumps.
 
#86 ·
This thread is intended to document my budget build and to provide tips and inspire others who like to do their own work and on a tight budget.

As an update, I will dyno the car tomorrow evening and then install the Curt Brown ported pieces for a before/after some time next week. The next phase of my build will focus on my final mods that will ultimately lead to at least 700hp@wheels. Based on my research here are the mods and predicted costs.
- DIY intercooler ~$700
- DIY intercooler piping ~$200
- DIY upgraded MAF Sensors(2x flow) ~$150
- DIY upgraded turbochargers ~$2000
 
#88 ·
Excellent work OP. Glad that there is a DIY person on this forum. Seems people love to justify the GTR Tax around here because of the price of the vehicle which does not make any sense to me. I never had to deal with a Evo Tax I am certainly not dealing with a GTR Tax. Good Luck!!
 
#91 ·
The reason vendors get away with the gtr tax is because you guys let them (not me)...for example...a vendor builds an exhaust...which is nothing but bent metal piping and figures most of the people who own a gtr have a good amount of money laying around and so they put a price tag that is sometimes twice the dollar amount or even three times the dollar amount of what it cost them to build it...they figured people with money give in since some can wipe their ass with money and a few grand of parts is no big deal...and the tax continues...

We can stop that non sense by simply calling them out and saying no...I do that every time...if it doesn't make sense ill let you know about it...save my money and wait for the right time to strike...strategic thinking...

Pikes Peak R35
 
#94 · (Edited by Moderator)
This blog provides a lot of useful information, but you still have to research to connect the dots. I will share all the information once I get to this.
http://www.litchfieldblog.co.uk/?p=929
 
#100 · (Edited by Moderator)
right Scott, if you're not a "business", then CHRA's can be bought relatively cheap and you're not worried about making a profit. The hardest part will be machining the OEM turbo housings and fabricating/welding points to secure the new CHRAs in place. There are plenty of flow maps out there to get and educated guess on which CHRA will flow "good enough".
 
#96 ·
In my opinion a compressor upgrade is not worth the hassle. The turbo desperately needs a larger turbine wheel so I will be upgrading both the turbine and compressor wheel.
 
#104 · (Edited by Moderator)
I once tuned my buddies 88 300ZX Turbo SE with a MAF Pro, which allowed you to intercept the MAF voltage and change it at various RPM breakpoints, but otherwise the GTR is the first car I have tuned with MAF. I am happy at how easy it is to tune and driveability is awesome. My daily driver EVO IX is SD using the Haltech Platinum Pro PnP and my previous 240Z running the Electromotive Tech II so my 16 years of tuning have all been SD based.

Here are my thoughts on the MAF vs speed density for 800hp. The Cobb uses a 16x16 VE table should I choose SD, but in my experience it is hard to get enough resolution to maintain OEM driveability without having sufficient off boost breakpoints. Simply put, the table needs to be larger in my opinion for a proper SD tune,. Also, map sensors provide a linear 0-5v response whereas the MAF provides a non linear response and potentially gives you more resolution for off boost driveability.

The main limiting factor with MAF is the stock units flow ~255 g/sec so you can only go so far with a 3" MAF tube and the OEM sensor. I am about 95% confident I have found the compatible sensor that flows double and is ~$65/MAF so it is an easy option. Also, with Cobb I can still run the SD to see what it feels like as it will likely only take a few hours on the street to tune the VE table.
 
#105 ·
my idle, throttle response, and general Driveability is far better on sd tune.
 
#107 · (Edited by Moderator)
The VE table has adjustable breakpoints and is interpolated. Progressive and smooth tables work well, lumpiness shouldn't be needed on most VR38. In choosing 16x16 I made it much bigger than the Evo IX version, I reckon 8x8 would have been fine on VR38. Also of course, CBA doesn't have a lot of RAM to keep it real time which is valuable for tuning a VE table.
 
#109 ·
wankeldude, if your SD tune drives better than your MAF tune then your MAF tune is wrong, period. My car (ecutek) starts, idles, revs and goes hard (E85 FBO) on a 100% MAF tune. When I build the motor and do bigger turbos I'll employ a hybrid approach that uses MAF up to 600whp or so and then uses SD in the range beyond where the MAF maxes out. But to just throw away the MAFs right off the bat is stupid. They do an excellent job at compensating for changes in conditions. I've run pump gas and E85 in weather ranging from 0 to 100, all with zero changes to the MAF tables. Fuel trims are always within the same range. I've done plenty of SD setups before but never had that level of consistency.
 
#110 · (Edited by Moderator)
Results are in from my baseline dyno run and the results are exactly inline with what I projected so I am happy. Current mods are as follows:
  • Cobb catless midpipe
  • DIY modified stock catback (stock mufflers)
  • DIY 3" inlets
  • Denso upgraded fuel pumps
  • ID 1000cc injectors
  • ME TUNED - AccessTUNER Race (modified Cobb Stage III basemap)
  • 18.5psi tapered to 14psi
  • 93 octane Sunoco E8
  • AFR solid at 11.5:1
Dyno run was done in 4th gear
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Boost vs RPM
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Wastegate Duty Cycle vs RPM
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Ignition timing vs RPM
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#111 ·
Just for fun here is my EVO IX on the same dyno and also 93 octane E8 with 33psi. I think the GTR makes more torque at lower rpm
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#112 ·
#114 ·
Since that dyno run I swapped to the GSC R2 cams so it makes more power and on the street I pull the car to 9k rpm so it has a good powerband once on boost. I will have it back on the dyno in a few months after I make a few changes. I got to beta test the new Garrett V-band twinscroll turbine housing so I will be doing a before/after with my current GTX3576 vs the GTX3582r sitting on my shelf.
 
#116 ·
Fantastic thread. Keep up the good work. Looking forward to the turbo upgrade section.
 
#117 ·
How come you went with Cobb over Ecutek? Since you're self-tuning and have gone into such depth, would Ecutek not be better? Genuine question. I was kind of, of the belief that Cobb was better for the people that want to do it themselves and Ecutek for those that want to self tune, so ecutek was better for that kind of thing.
 
#118 ·
The GTR came with Cobb and ECUteck would not sell me the tuning software so Cobb was the only option with AccessTUNER Race. With that said, I am not disappointed with COBB for what I am trying to do.
 
#127 ·
My Curt Brown ported intake arrived today so I started the install. First step was to pin the intake so the gasket would properly align. I will take more pictures tomorrow, but for now....

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