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Mine is going in Monday for a new set of the Dodson plug and play sensors that don't rely on the module. i was thinking of going with a new tranny wiring loom as well I don't really know if after three transmission removals I would feel like taking a chance on a fourth. I will update how it goes ...I found a weird short in my a/v unit the last time I started the car a few weeks ago. Then when using my car today for a quick 5 minute drive the code kicked and i heard static in my passenger side speaker, like a very low staticy morse code type noise that went away after a few seconds. I tried to reset the ecu with my a/p that did nothing, I reset the dodson module in the trunk and that cleared the code and the car drove home fine...strange. I'm wondering if a short in the a/v system could be affecting the B sensor? I know it's a long shot but the timing was uncanny.
didn't take too long for P0777 and some shift fork codes to come back, which lately are now just the P0777 code by itself when the trans goes above 80 degrees celsius
 

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Update: i had the transmission temp gauge on the info screen do something weird the other day. it was flickering between 87 and 88 degrees (celsius).

I need it to get to 88 and stay there because it failed numerous times at that specific temperature, causing the car to lose odd gears. At that point i would stop to let it cool down, do an ecu reset, and the car drove fine again until the magic 88 degrees then the code would kick again. i've been in touch with Mike at Dodson since I am getting the P0777 code but that could be anything from dirty fluid (which mine was not), to a faulty solenoid, and of course the clutch pressure sensors that were replaced (new plug and play from Dodson).

This flickering is something I have never noticed for any readouts before. has anyone noticed flickering on their transmission temps with relation to any of the sensor issues that we are all talking about in this thread? i will keep trying to make the trans get to 88 degrees so i can get a solid datalog.
 

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If you log the sensor voltage from idle to when it shorts out and trips the code it would show you how healthy the sensor is and whether or not it’s the seal or sensor. I went through two sets of brand new Dodson pressure sensors before switching to what was described to me as a different supplier. No issues since.
 

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If you log the sensor voltage from idle to when it shorts out and trips the code it would show you how healthy the sensor is and whether or not it’s the seal or sensor. I went through two sets of brand new Dodson pressure sensors before switching to what was described to me as a different supplier. No issues since.
So do you know the brand of sensor they used in yours, i'm guessing not as you would have stated. I have read a lot of posts and they say if it's a temperature issue that trips the code then it more than likely is a pressure sensor and not a malfunctioning solenoid. I am just shaking my head that I could have had two different batches of sensors from Dodson (both module and non-module) and both sets are giving me issues, making me wonder if their supplier is producing consistent bad batches. My next visit to the shop would a fourth time addressing this issue. I will try and get the trans temp to rise to a point where I can get a solid datalog in. thanks for the reply AE!
 

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No I don’t. I was on the verge of trying SSP sensors but didn’t because I was already working with a shop that was supplying the sensors through Shep.

After explaining my issues to Shep directly, he sent me a set of sensors that he described as not being Dodson but still needed to be scaled.
 

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I bought my 2015 in February last year, drove it fine for 8 months, then I put my sons car seat in the back (passenger side) and that day (probably coincidence) I got a P0747 code. Turned the car off then back on and car was fine. Drove fine and then the code randomly threw itself a couple hundred miles later. Turned the car off then back on and again all was fine. Car was fine for a couple months and then again randomly threw the code, this whole time I was in touch with shep and he had my try to log the issue, which I was finally able to do. He said it could be the pressure sensor (stock), but taking it apart was really the only way to find out. That was back at the beginning of the year, I've only had it throw the code 2 more times (March and then June) and both times restarting it, it goes away. Eventually I'll get the sensors replaced, but doesn't make sense with how random it is. The trans fluid was changed by previous own at 17k miles, currently I'm at 25k.
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I bought my 2015 in February last year, drove it fine for 8 months, then I put my sons car seat in the back (passenger side) and that day (probably coincidence) I got a P0747 code. Turned the car off then back on and car was fine. Drove fine and then the code randomly threw itself a couple hundred miles later. Turned the car off then back on and again all was fine. Car was fine for a couple months and then again randomly threw the code, this whole time I was in touch with shep and he had my try to log the issue, which I was finally able to do. He said it could be the pressure sensor (stock), but taking it apart was really the only way to find out. That was back at the beginning of the year, I've only had it throw the code 2 more times (March and then June) and both times restarting it, it goes away. Eventually I'll get the sensors replaced, but doesn't make sense with how random it is. The trans fluid was changed by previous own at 17k miles, currently I'm at 25k.
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I hear you there, some codes are so random, taking hundreds of days to come back, makes for a difficult datalog. I had mine trip a code at 88 degrees celsius in the trans the other day but now the car doesn't seem to show anything i need to get it on the highway and put it under load as that is where i always get a code, slow urban driving seems to be a non-issue.
 

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I hear you there, some codes are so random, taking hundreds of days to come back, makes for a difficult datalog. I had mine trip a code at 88 degrees celsius in the trans the other day but now the car doesn't seem to show anything i need to get it on the highway and put it under load as that is where i always get a code, slow urban driving seems to be a non-issue.
whenever mine throws the code it under light driving, usually no throttle, and it also threw it just sitting at a red light.
 

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The driving style and/or conditions make no difference in my case. It's strictly temperature related. One the fluid gets hot, I have a sensor that stops working. When it's cold it's fine.
 

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The driving style and/or conditions make no difference in my case. It's strictly temperature related. One the fluid gets hot, I have a sensor that stops working. When it's cold it's fine.
As does mine, 86-88 celsius is where it tends to kick the code and i'm usually on the highway. Once it cools down i can reset the ecu and drive until it gets in that range again.
I'm going to try and do a datalog in the next day or two. Knowing my luck the car will drive fine throughout the temperature range and even with some spirited driving thrown in to boot.
 

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As does mine, 86-88 celsius is where it tends to kick the code and i'm usually on the highway. Once it cools down i can reset the ecu and drive until it gets in that range again.
I'm going to try and do a datalog in the next day or two. Knowing my luck the car will drive fine throughout the temperature range and even with some spirited driving thrown in to boot.
knock on wood mine hasn't kicked back on yet, I bet it kicks back on in September since that will be 3 months, haha. I've had my trans oil temps over 180 F and no issues so far.
 

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I changed the sensors and this solved my problem. The car is back to normal operation in all temp ranges.
and you went with ebay sensors that had to be scaled, correct? why did you choose not to go oem? was it the cost savings or did you have reservations about the reliability of oem sensors?
 

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and you went with ebay sensors that had to be scaled, correct? why did you choose not to go oem? was it the cost savings or did you have reservations about the reliability of oem sensors?
I ended up using 3 sensors that shipped from inside the U.S. They were advertised as being for Honda and the cost was $86 shipped for all three. They did NOT need to be scaled, just plug and play and have been working fine in all trans temperature ranges.

I had gotten some sensors that shipped from China that were advertised as being for the GT-R. These sensors were around $30 each and would need to be scaled. I also got a sensor from a company called "NP boosted" in Canada. The first sensor they sent me seemed to have an issue as it put out 2 volts as soon as I powered it up. It should read about .5 volts at zero pressure. Anyway, they sent me a working replacement and it does have the correct scale and would work in our cars without needing to be scaled.

Though if you received a bad sensor, you wouldn't know until the job was done whether it was good or not. Unless you have a test stand like the one i put together.
 

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I ended up using 3 sensors that shipped from inside the U.S. They were advertised as being for Honda and the cost was $86 shipped for all three. They did NOT need to be scaled, just plug and play and have been working fine in all trans temperature ranges.

I had gotten some sensors that shipped from China that were advertised as being for the GT-R. These sensors were around $30 each and would need to be scaled. I also got a sensor from a company called "NP boosted" in Canada. The first sensor they sent me seemed to have an issue as it put out 2 volts as soon as I powered it up. It should read about .5 volts at zero pressure. Anyway, they sent me a working replacement and it does have the correct scale and would work in our cars without needing to be scaled.

Though if you received a bad sensor, you wouldn't know until the job was done whether it was good or not. Unless you have a test stand like the one i put together.
Where did you get your sensors? Link?
 
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