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I have a 2010 with 10500 miles and cars having extremely noticeable and excessive drivetrain vibration in park/nuetral between 1500 - 1800rpm.
Vibration also noticeable at 3000rpm in park/nuetral & while driving

In late Oct 2012 with 9000 miles and car, Jason and Vince at San Leandro Nissan noticed the flywheel bellhousing had excessive play & driveshaft was a bit worn with a flat spot on u joint so both needed replacement under warranty

After a 3 month wait in early February 2013 the new driveshaft arrived. I was informed there was a factory production stoppage on driveshafts late last year and hence the delay.

In early February with 9800 miles on car the new driveshaft & new bellhousing were installed.
Within 2 weeks or 300 miles an excessive increase in drivetrain vibration quickly developed between 1500-1800 with car in park/nuetral. The vibration then got very noticeable at 3000rpm while driving. Car went bak to San Leandro Nissan and they immediately noticed the new bellhousing with 300 miles was bad again.

So in late February with 10200 miles on car another new bellhousing was installed. When i picked up the car it felt & sounded good, vibration seemed relieved, but this was short lived. Again now within 300 miles of driving the drivetrain vibrations between 1500-1800 have returned.

Im not sure whats causing the vibrations this time around as cars going back into San Landro Nisssan this week

Anyone had this problem or have a good suggestion to what causing the vibrations? Obviuosly a new bellhousing stops vibration for a very short span but then vibrations return.

Im wondering if the new driveshaft could actually be the problem? Or maybe the propshaft? Maybe its not balanced, but dont really know. Car has pretty low miles and although i bought used with 8700 miles hstory showed it was well cared for.

Anyone happen to know what would cause vibrations betwen 1500-1800rpm from recurring in this case?
 

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I have almost the same issue with the vibration... It's apparent when bringing the revs a little over idle and gets really bad @ 2500 and decel. My appointment with the dealer is today, so I will see what they say.

What I'm thinking that if something else is bad (i.e. a driveshaft bearing) then over time it will wear out the bell housing bearing over time. Hence the reason why a new bell housing temporary relieves the issue.
 

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Sounds like your vibrations are hapoening about 500rpm lower in both cases.
i dont have vibrations on decel either.

I've sat in several GTRs and notice even in 2013 @1500rpm hits a small harmonic resonant frequency but on most all cars it's exactly at one brief spot and very subtle. Vibrations on mine are way too excessive like what many notice on the flywheel bellhousing technical service bulletin.

Have driveshaft noise and vibrations been a recurring issue on the cars?

Checkout post #28 on this thread. Wonder if that was really true.

http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/38811-transmission-rattle-problem-or-not/page__hl__transmission%20noises__st__20
 

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Its the Bellhousing. Being fixed now.
 

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I have the issue as well.

only at 3000rpm in gear.

Bellhousing already refurbished.
 

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Funny thing happened to me. I had my gearbox repaired and upgraded, when I got it back there was a whine in the upper range of revs. Not very loud but definitely noticeable. The rattle was quite loud at idle and on light acceleration. R35's I find do have a drivetrain whine but this was a little louder than normal. (Although some youtube videos seem to have the same loud whine mine had) So I had a few trans codes come up after a few months with my R35. Decided to remove the transmission myself at home on car stands, what did I find?....... The carbon driveshaft connecting the engine to the gearbox was not aligned correctly, meaning the driveshaft was out of balance. There was a factory pinkish/purple mark on the transmission hub and the one on the driveshaft was not aligned correctly. After I removed, fixed my trans and refitted it correctly the difference was just amazing. The car had a little if any rattle on idle and absolutely no whine at all. On light throttle the rattle was not even noticeable. Try checking your driveshaft marks on the gearbox side, might be worth a quick check...
 

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Very interesting thing with copperhead problem....two new bellhousings and problem again occurs after few miles.. now I am little bit nervous, because my new bellhousing just arrived to the dealer and I am gonna to changed it next week with my mechanic. Car is out of warranty, so I am worried now. I dont wanna pay another bellhousing after few miles.

Question on you guys, who already did bellhousing change - did it help and vibration and play in shaft are away or u have again same problem after few miles???

Are there any changes between 2011, 2012 and 2013 ? Should I check in dealership if the part is 2013 ?? Does it matter?

thx
 

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I feel/hear the vibrations in the car from the drivetrain when accelerating at highway speeds (65-85mph). When I let off to cruise, the vibrations improve a bit. When I get back on the gas, the vibrations return immediately. I had the Nissan dealer check it out and they said the bell housing was fine and "that's how the GTR is at baseline". Funny thing is, I don't remember this occurring during the 1st 10,000 miles on the car.
 

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Same story for me. Bellhousing replacement about 1500 miles ago (at 12k on the car). Following the replacement, horrible shudder/noise as I coast to decelerate down through 4th, really loud into 3rd and seems to go away in 2nd. Nissan spent 3 days with the car, their verdict.... they are blaming my tires for creating the sound which I don't agree with one bit. Noise/vibration was not there before the bellhousing and was there immediately after. Car drives great, sound sucks! Might my dealer know the shaft needs replacing and they are choosing to overlook it? My car was with them for over a month - long story available in a different thread... so I could see them not wanting to work on my ride any more cuz they know the experience was shitty for all involved.
 

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Funny thing happened to me. I had my gearbox repaired and upgraded, when I got it back there was a whine in the upper range of revs. Not very loud but definitely noticeable. The rattle was quite loud at idle and on light acceleration. R35's I find do have a drivetrain whine but this was a little louder than normal. (Although some youtube videos seem to have the same loud whine mine had) So I had a few trans codes come up after a few months with my R35. Decided to remove the transmission myself at home on car stands, what did I find?....... The carbon driveshaft connecting the engine to the gearbox was not aligned correctly, meaning the driveshaft was out of balance. There was a factory pinkish/purple mark on the transmission hub and the one on the driveshaft was not aligned correctly. After I removed, fixed my trans and refitted it correctly the difference was just amazing. The car had a little if any rattle on idle and absolutely no whine at all. On light throttle the rattle was not even noticeable. Try checking your driveshaft marks on the gearbox side, might be worth a quick check...
ok checking propshaft
 

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Well picked up car from San Leandro Nissan today where it was for a week for the vibration issue.

Up until last week, only mods on car are catleess downpipes & resonated catless midpipe. Im working with the dealerships warranty policy, so last week San Leandro said they would pull off the catless downpipes & return the stock downpipes.They are saying this, hinting the catless downpipes are causing the vibration. Never heard that one before.

Anyway, i receive car today with stock downpipes and still vibrating just as bad. Only thing different is car is accoustically quiter with stock downpipes. So still some vibration at idle, more vibration from 1400-1800rpm, and extreme vibrations above 3200rpm all in park/nuetral. Vibrates in those rpm also while driving just not as much. Hard to believe they returned car that way still vibrating. Not sure why they are not sharpening there pencils to isolate the problem. One of there main GTR techs has been injured and out. Hope he gets better. Seriously though, cant accept the car not right.

So i put 50 miles on car and its going back to the dealer again for non fix on vibration issue. I called GTR hotline and explained the situation as the vibration problem has not been solved. Im waiting on San Leandro response from Nissan Engineering department.
 

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Very similar issue here:

2010 gtr - 24,000 miles, catless dp and midpipe.

Bellhouse got changed about 500 miles ago due to loud sound and vibration in trans.
When i got the car back i had a lot of vibration at idle. Idle in D vibrates a lot (800RPM) idle in P sometimes does and sometimes doesnt (1100 rpm).

The vibration is an absolute nightmare! i feel it in the sttering wheel, pedals and under my seat. The passenger feels it strongly too, hate driving the car around the city or anything to do with traffic lights.

I will attempt to see if the trans is alligned with engine,

i was considering sending the car to a audio shop and have the whole thing professionaly noise insulated like an audi. BUT>>>>> still not sure if it will solve the vibration at idle.
Another idea was it could possibly be touch points trying to engange car when i have my foot on the break so maybe adjust those.

Does anyone have any opinions? Really looking for advice
 

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anyone know how we get rid of this vibration at 3000rpm. Doesn't matter idle or in gear.
 

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Guys....make sure you distinguish between an audible vibration which is pretty normal in the GTR versus a "physical vibration" that you can actually feel in the steering wheel and seat. The car is assembled on a fixture with preloads on the suspension components and laser aligned....it should not have any harmonic or other vibrations you can feel in the drive line PERIOD.
 

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It seems like the bellhousings are not being installed correctly. It makes NO sense that immediately after the install major vibrations occur. Keep going back and complaining, you know that if a car is under warranty and returns 3 times for same problem without it being fixed you can go to arbitration.
 

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Is this the marking on the propshaft?
 
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