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Thanks for the tip, did you just heat the center section, I was going to use a hot plate when I put it back on, but scared of the torch in there trying to take it off.
I used a Black&Decker heat gun, plenty of heat, but no flame.

John-
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Update time, I got the damper off with the help of a buddy and a heat gun on Sunday. (Thanks for the tip Johnny) The rest of the cover removal was pretty easy, took some time to get al the ultra gray to break free, I learned you can actually do the cam gears without removing the valve cover and for sure without removing cam retention plate that that was mentioned in the tutorial, probably an hour or so saved there. Got the gears replaced and the car back timed, reinstalled the valve cover and started the arduous task of cleaning the mid and front timing covers of rtv before reassembly, going to be pretty booked at work for the next two days, but I hope to get assembly completed by the end of the week.

With the extra cam gears in hand I fitted them on the bench to the cam seal stands, and there is no way they were physically rubbing, the stands sit in the middle and there is so much room the seals dont even touch the gear, which really doesn't do much for my confidence about what caused this issue, maybe some parts were just worn when it was reassembled.

Also, of note I have the same marks on the outer timing cover as shown in the tutorial (ill get a pic later) which appears to have been something rubbing against the cover.
 

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Update time, I got the damper off with the help of a buddy and a heat gun on Sunday. (Thanks for the tip Johnny) The rest of the cover removal was pretty easy, took some time to get al the ultra gray to break free, I learned you can actually do the cam gears without removing the valve cover and for sure without removing cam retention plate that that was mentioned in the tutorial, probably an hour or so saved there. Got the gears replaced and the car back timed, reinstalled the valve cover and started the arduous task of cleaning the mid and front timing covers of rtv before reassembly, going to be pretty booked at work for the next two days, but I hope to get assembly completed by the end of the week.

With the extra cam gears in hand I fitted them on the bench to the cam seal stands, and there is no way they were physically rubbing, the stands sit in the middle and there is so much room the seals dont even touch the gear, which really doesn't do much for my confidence about what caused this issue, maybe some parts were just worn when it was reassembled.

Also, of note I have the same marks on the outer timing cover as shown in the tutorial (ill get a pic later) which appears to have been something rubbing against the cover.
Timing chain was hitting the cover? Are you replacing all the tensioners?
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Waiting on a few last minutes, unfortunately no dealers around me are GTR certified, so it takes me a week to get any parts. Hopefully the last piece arrives today and I can get the re-assembly started tomorrow.
 

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Update time, I got the damper off with the help of a buddy and a heat gun on Sunday. (Thanks for the tip Johnny) The rest of the cover removal was pretty easy, took some time to get al the ultra gray to break free, I learned you can actually do the cam gears without removing the valve cover and for sure without removing cam retention plate that that was mentioned in the tutorial, probably an hour or so saved there. Got the gears replaced and the car back timed, reinstalled the valve cover and started the arduous task of cleaning the mid and front timing covers of rtv before reassembly, going to be pretty booked at work for the next two days, but I hope to get assembly completed by the end of the week.

With the extra cam gears in hand I fitted them on the bench to the cam seal stands, and there is no way they were physically rubbing, the stands sit in the middle and there is so much room the seals dont even touch the gear, which really doesn't do much for my confidence about what caused this issue, maybe some parts were just worn when it was reassembled.

Also, of note I have the same marks on the outer timing cover as shown in the tutorial (ill get a pic later) which appears to have been something rubbing against the cover.
What did you do to remove the cam gears without removing the valve cover etc?
 

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What did you do to remove the cam gears without removing the valve cover etc?
In the sticky the valve cover was removed for the sole purpose of putting a wrench on the cam itself to keep it from moving, and the forward most cam cover was removed for no reason whatsoever, it simply does not need to come off. I used a universal cam gear tool similar to the one below to hold the cam still, additionally you can use gear locks (if you need to remove the chain holding the intake to the exhaust at the same time).

Physically removing the cam gears is simple, its just a center bolt in each gear, they come out the front and the gears slide straight forward to come off.
 

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Update time.

Started reassembly, thanks for the tip on dry ice, it worked out great! But couldn't find the static torque spec for the ATi damper, what did you torque it to?

Also everything was going together rather well until I noticed a little issue with one of my new cam covers .. guessing this was my 4yr old or my 18mo old knocked it off my table and just put it back not knowing what happened. So that's another 6 days and $750 down the drain, luckally (if you can call it that) it's bank 2 so it goes in almost last anyway so I'll have the rest of the motor together tomorrow.
 

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Update time.

Started reassembly, thanks for the tip on dry ice, it worked out great! But couldn't find the static torque spec for the ATi damper, what did you torque it to?

Also everything was going together rather well until I noticed a little issue with one of my new cam covers .. guessing this was my 4yr old or my 18mo old knocked it off my table and just put it back not knowing what happened. So that's another 6 days and $750 down the drain, luckally (if you can call it that) it's bank 2 so it goes in almost last anyway so I'll have the rest of the motor together tomorrow.
Doooooh!!
 

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Strangely the documentation for my ATI Damper didn't mention a tq spec ??

With lack of direction from ATI I fell back to the OEM spec (Which seems awfully light to me):

post-392700-0-05880900-1622772799.jpg


Ouch on the broken cover, gotta love those little 'Helpers' :thumbsup:
 

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A bit defeated today. Got the car put back together, primed the oil by doing 2 starts with the fuel pumps off and the car fired right up.


Got out, checked everything over, no leaks cut the car off topped off the oil and started it back up to let it come fully to temp, and immediately on the second start the noise was back, just as before.

Just had to walk away from it, not sure what to do next. I think tomorrow I'll try to start it again and see if the noise goes away with a little time, total the car may have ran for 3 minutes, temp was only 105 and it was 81 in my shop. So there is a small chance some air or something was in the timing gear or something like that, but barring that I guess I'll pull the cam covers back off and inspect. I did not replace the solenoid on bank 1 which is where I thought the noise was coming from today so maybe I'll try that.

Oil pressure was good though about 85psi on start up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Here is the startup from this morning, let it run for a bit, oil pressure started at about 95 psi and let the coolant temp come up to about 155, oil psi warmed to about 60, which is still fine. The noise is RPM dependent which I think is new, I don't remember ever hearing it off idle before, which is leading me to think I may be experience something more in depth than this started.

I wonder if the condition of the timing chain may have allowed it to move 1 tooth before I replaced everything, I know i put it back on the same way it came off, but its possible it could have been off a tooth when I took the old one off. Also I never removed the valve cover on bank1 so its possible I missed something that could have been wrong there. I am still open to suggestions, the motor would already be out if my lift would just come in, I am really dreading any more work on the car at the moment..

 

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Sorry to hear. I wish I could be of more assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 ·
Also, if anyone can confirm I looked at the intake cam timing though the Cobb for bank 1 while it was idling, and it say it was -2º, I was under the impression it should be 0 at idle, can anyone confirm if that is normal or if maybe that is pointing to a timing chain issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
Just a quick update, I haven't touched the car in 2 weeks. Just needed some space and time from it.

Coming up with a game plan for how to continue diagnosis of the issue. My current plan is to do a full compression test while the car is fully together to ensure I didnt some how bend some valves somewhere. If that checks out then I will go through the trouble of resetting the timing from scratch vs just marking all the chains and gears as I did the first time. I haven't decided if I will do this with the engine in the car or if I will pull it again, I honestly think the amount of time is about the same, but dealing with the front cover and silicone is a bear with the motor in the car.

On that note, and also a side question, does anyone here have a lift table or do you just drop the front cradle on a table or something? My lift has again been scheduled for Aug 2nd so I wouldn't do the motor job until after that is installed but I want to know if that's going to be necessary before then.

Still open to any other suggestions to t-shoot the issue.
 

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Just a quick update, I haven't touched the car in 2 weeks. Just needed some space and time from it.

Coming up with a game plan for how to continue diagnosis of the issue. My current plan is to do a full compression test while the car is fully together to ensure I didnt some how bend some valves somewhere. If that checks out then I will go through the trouble of resetting the timing from scratch vs just marking all the chains and gears as I did the first time. I haven't decided if I will do this with the engine in the car or if I will pull it again, I honestly think the amount of time is about the same, but dealing with the front cover and silicone is a bear with the motor in the car.

On that note, and also a side question, does anyone here have a lift table or do you just drop the front cradle on a table or something? My lift has again been scheduled for Aug 2nd so I wouldn't do the motor job until after that is installed but I want to know if that's going to be necessary before then.

Still open to any other suggestions to t-shoot the issue.
A hydraulic table works well.
 

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$20 Harbor Freight furniture dolly FTW:

398648
 
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