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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I recently purchased a 2016 GTR and I have noticed that it does horrible on any kind of turns. It feels like it is barely holding traction when I accelerate through a left turn signal or any kind of turn, it just does not grip. I have taken it to several shops and they all have said that it is now "better". One shop did replace the diff oil and said it had the wrong oil. They didnt say the diff was bad or anything. You can also feel some pressure/friction when turning the wheel and going in reverse. Any idea on what it could be? I have rented GTRs a couple of times in the past and they would take turns no problem and I would struggle to stay in the seat. With this one the car just feels like it wants to slide off the road.

Thanks for the help

Backstory: I purchased the car from a different state and upon receiving and getting an inspection there was a lot of undercarriage damage that was not reported. It looks like it was in a pretty bad accident and they just did what they could to make it look good and not salvage it(The frame is fine). The brake lines were pinched, missing front wheel well cover, puncture/dent in the undercarriage, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So 6-8 year old tires? That could be contributing to it
I just had a shop install them a few months ago. Is that typical that I would get "new" tires that old? Perhaps that is part of the issue, but I still feel something has to be up with the differentials, based on the noise and friction with slow turns forward and backward.
 

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If that’s the correct date codes it will definitely contribute to it. It sounds like you have a few things going on. I would start with some new 4s tires and go from there
 

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Those tires are very old. It’s too late now but you always want to check that before installation.

However, I think your problem goes deeper than that and I’m not someone that likes to throw money at a problem until it goes away.

Maybe if you let us know the area you live in somebody here could give you a good recommendation for a reputable mechanic that knows the platform well to check it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Those tires are very old. It’s too late now but you always want to check that before installation.

However, I think your problem goes deeper than that and I’m not someone that likes to throw money at a problem until it goes away.

Maybe if you let us know the area you live in somebody here could give you a good recommendation for a reputable mechanic that knows the platform well to check it out.
Yeah. I have already had to put a lot of money into the car fixing it. I live in the DC area. Any recommendation would be appreciated. I have already taken it to multiple shops.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I just drove on the freeway today and something else I noticed when I accelerate and release on a turn the car will jerk when I release the acceleration mid turn.
 

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3015, 3213, 3313, 3015!

This means the tires were made in the 30th week of 2016 (Very old) and the 32-33rd week of 2013! Extremely old.

Rubber does not last, tires are usually made within a year of when they are sold and usually less. As rubber ages even if stored well it will turn hard and loose the ability to provide grip when on the road, it may take longer to heat up and become better for performance if that is designed into the rubber compound. The usually normal life of a tire is about 6 years at best.

So two of your tires are past expiration and aren't going to give you much grip, if they are on different axles then you have a big problem as one side will get a little grip from the 2015 tire and the other side very little grip from the 2013 tire. So all bets are off in terms of predictable and controllable handling. I would take the tires back to the shop and demand that they replace them.

255/40-20 on the front and 285/35-20 on the rear are OEM tire sizes which are OK but aren't the best for grip. 285/35-20 can be used on both front and rear OEM wheels with OEM suspension but will cost a little more.

There isn't anything wrong with the Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires (even though they are old and replaced by Pilot Sport 4S) if you can get them in the correct size and recently made.

For performance driving I always try to make my tires last as long as possible but the amount of grip loss is huge after about 2-3 years at best, tread is good but the rubber is hard and isn't usable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
3015, 3213, 3313, 3015!

This means the tires were made in the 30th week of 2016 (Very old) and the 32-33rd week of 2013! Extremely old.

Rubber does not last, tires are usually made within a year of when they are sold and usually less. As rubber ages even if stored well it will turn hard and loose the ability to provide grip when on the road, it may take longer to heat up and become better for performance if that is designed into the rubber compound. The usually normal life of a tire is about 6 years at best.

So two of your tires are past expiration and aren't going to give you much grip, if they are on different axles then you have a big problem as one side will get a little grip from the 2015 tire and the other side very little grip from the 2013 tire. So all bets are off in terms of predictable and controllable handling. I would take the tires back to the shop and demand that they replace them.

255/40-20 on the front and 285/35-20 on the rear are OEM tire sizes which are OK but aren't the best for grip. 285/35-20 can be used on both front and rear OEM wheels with OEM suspension but will cost a little more.

There isn't anything wrong with the Michelin Pilot Super Sport tires (even though they are old and replaced by Pilot Sport 4S) if you can get them in the correct size and recently made.

For performance driving I always try to make my tires last as long as possible but the amount of grip loss is huge after about 2-3 years at best, tread is good but the rubber is hard and isn't usable.
Thank you for the info. Should I get the run flat version of the Pilot Sport 4S tires? It is showing multiple types:
-285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL K2 Ferrari
-285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL Star BMW
-285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL
-285/35ZR20 104Y XL Run Flat (4S ZP)
 

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Yes, multiple models of Pilot Sport 4S treadwear 300 Max Summer tire, all are XL load (stiffer sidewall)
Variations exist due to car companies having certain specs they want for their version suited for their line or car model. In general these tires are similar and there is a slight cost difference, availability can also vary.

285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL K2 Ferrari - $421 each , 29 lbs, 9/32" tread depth, in stock at tirerack
285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL Star BMW - $421 each , 29 lbs, 9/32" tread depth, available in few days
285/35ZR20 (104Y) XL - $407 each , 29 lbs, 9.5/32" tread depth, low stock, more due late December
285/35ZR20 104Y XL Run Flat (4S ZP) - $428 each , 35 lbs, 9.5/32" tread depth, low stock, more due in 6 weeks

In general runflats are an option for safety, not needing to stop for flat in urban unsafe or bad weather conditions. Runflats have an extremely stiff sidewall and will be very firm riding and noisy. When more than one driver takes the GTR on public roads it may help with not having to deal with a flat. Performance for the Pilot Sport 4S may be similar between runflat and non runflat, Cost is similar. Normally other brands of runflats cost more.

Note that wear is usually fastest on the front inner treads with street use. Performance driving tends to wear the front outer treads. If all four wheels use 285/35-20 you can rotate tires from front right to left rear and front left to right rear at about 30-35% wear on a tire edge to get a little more life out them. Otherwise the fronts will wear out about twice as fast as the rears depending on how you drive.
 
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