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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone, I've seen on numerous occasions where folks are told the CBA vs DBA comparison becomes negated in the performance category if the goal is to modify the car, especially beyond simple FBO scenarios. I know the interior and suspension have been enhanced quite a bit over the years and I've gone through MC's CBA/DBA model year comparisons a few times. For those of you with high horsepower DBA builds, if you had to do everything over again would any of you simply grab a well cared for higher mileage CBA for high-40s/low-50s to start from?

I'm wondering because despite the 2015s coming off-lease for 75k, for that I could pick up a CBA and throw 25k at it and end up with an extremely well rounded 800+hp R35. It's tough because on one hand, I think finding a middle-ground may make sense. I go for an early DBA but I'd still be looking at mid to low 60s and at that point, who wouldn't pay an extra 10k for a 2015 with 10k miles which brings me back to my original thoughts.

Rather than continue to mull this over by myself, I figured I'd throw it out there to see what you guys think.
 

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Vendor
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I really prefer the DBA personally. Just the look is enough to justify it for me. From a performance standpoint though your right, once your modified like that there isn't any performance difference.

I'd take the middle road in your case, find that low 60's DBA and modify that. Get the advantages of a DBA without spending the whole 75K.
 

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GTRLIFE BOTM August 2015
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To me, I would start with a DBA platform (which I did). I get what you are saying, because changing the engine and trans really leaves you with a pretty new car to begin with. But there are SO many other improvements from CBA to DBA that are outside those changes....I would only go the super cheap CBA route if I was going to strip the entire car and us it to climb Pikes Peak. As a daily or even as a weekend car...the DBA features are SO much nicer to the user experience of the car.
 

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I would go the DBA route.

- Better Traction Control Logic
- Bigger Brakes
- Updated front bumper
- They feel/drive nicer

Now If you're going to build a drag car I would go with the CBA.


Thanks!

Michael
 

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Lake Bum
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DBA. Just sold my CBA and bought a built DBA. Get a 2012 or 13. Besides all the interior updates it has better cooling and a much faster engine ECM. The faster ECM gives you many more datalog entries over the same time frame when compared to CBA car.
 

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DBA. The framing also has structural improvements in the firewall as well as the carbon strut bar. I believe also on the 15's the rear sub frame is also strengthened and built to tighter tolerances. Plus the suspension is much better on the DBAs.
 

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Boost Junky
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More than happy with my 1000whp CBA car. If I were building it I'd go cheapest possible in best condition.
 

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Id have to agree with the 2012 DBA. Still gives you a great performance car at 85-90K. Thats about the fastest bang for the buck and you still gain the improvements
 

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Or you could buy someone elses project for less than it would cost for you to do. Always a few on here.
 

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If you do a big build, the difference is cba and dba cost is pocket change. Dba is the way to go. Once you get used to the dba screen, go look at cba screen (pre 2010), it is a big difference.

Big builds equal cost more than car.
 

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It's easy to say "start with DBA" now that they are very nearly the same price as the CBA in the used market. If you are planning to spend $80000 on modifications above and beyond the cost of the car then sure what's another $20k? But if you're only planning to put $25k into the car then it becomes a much tougher decision.
 

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-Buy one already done right by the right people right off the bat. Even if you go CBA with 50k miles for like 47-52k you're looking at 20k in trans work, 20k in engine and turbos minimum and thats with no labor so you're instantly at 95k for another 10-20k you can buy one from someone who did it right. And most of the guys who've bought 1000whp+ T1, AMS, Switzer cars aren't really at the age where they're hooning/ beating the shit out of them.

Avoid the Tune, FBO, E85, smaller turbos, bigger turbos and trans trap which has you buying different sets of everything with each step

But I'd go CBA, buy a DBA bumper and upgrade the brakes and suspension with used.
 

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Boost Junky
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Buy a build that is well documented by reputable shops. There are a few out there.

Avoid hacked up cars.

All common sense really.

There is no way to cheap out on a build and have a car that performs well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow, thanks a ton for all of the feedback guys. I think I'll go the 2012-2013 route. One pre-built would be a great way to save a good bit but I don't want to miss out on such a journey, especially on this platform.
 

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I bought a 2009 with 21k miles and plans of just going the full bolt on route. Plans and reality ended up being two totally different things. Only 800 miles after buying the car it was torn completely apart and 300 of those miles were from driving it home from NY to MD. Unfortunately due to a small amount of bead blasting material being ingested into the engine after having the intake manifold powdercoated, I had to rebuild the engine. While it was apart I ended up going with a 4.1 stroker, ported heads with +1mm valves, Jack's drag 1200 transmission, 3794 turbos, 72mm throttle bodies, triple pumps and full fuel system, id2000s, race intercooler with piping and tial blow off valves, rims and tires, ap front and rear rotors with endless pads, DSS front and rear axles, Cobb AP and 4" exhaust.
So if I had to do it all over again, I'd buy a high mileage car to start with since pretty much everything was being replaced or rebuilt.

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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Damn. I assume you just had to eat that cost? Badass car now though. Remind me to not powdercoat my mani ha

I bought a 2009 with 21k miles and plans of just going the full bolt on route. Plans and reality ended up being two totally different things. Only 800 miles after buying the car it was torn completely apart and 300 of those miles were from driving it home from NY to MD. Unfortunately due to a small amount of bead blasting material being ingested into the engine after having the intake manifold powdercoated, I had to rebuild the engine. While it was apart I ended up going with a 4.1 stroker, ported heads with +1mm valves, Jack's drag 1200 transmission, 3794 turbos, 72mm throttle bodies, triple pumps and full fuel system, id2000s, race intercooler with piping and tial blow off valves, rims and tires, ap front and rear rotors with endless pads, DSS front and rear axles, Cobb AP and 4" exhaust.
So if I had to do it all over again, I'd buy a high mileage car to start with since pretty much everything was being replaced or rebuilt.

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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OP, I'd go DBA for the transmission cooling upgrades alone. Of course, anything can be retro-fitted to a CBA, but I just think there are too many cheap DBA's around not to get one.

DBA. Just sold my CBA and bought a built DBA. Get a 2012 or 13. Besides all the interior updates it has better cooling and a much faster engine ECM. The faster ECM gives you many more datalog entries over the same time frame when compared to CBA car.
I haven't heard this before. Are you saying the 2013's log faster than a 2014? Or were you just saying that all DBA's have faster ECM's?
 

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Lake Bum
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OP, I'd go DBA for the transmission cooling upgrades alone. Of course, anything can be retro-fitted to a CBA, but I just think there are too many cheap DBA's around not to get one.

I haven't heard this before. Are you saying the 2013's log faster than a 2014? Or were you just saying that all DBA's have faster ECM's?
DBA ecm is faster than CBA.
 

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Pretty simple. Get the cheapest and best condition car you can afford. DBA's still are in the 70+ range, have not seen one in 60k range, especially in the west coast. Maybe there were a few very high mileage ones but that is not the rule, it is the exception.
 
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