Nissan GT-R Forum banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to buy a GTR. I have been shopping around during the day and at night I am trying to read up on the car as much as I can. I can handle the maintenance and I will not bitch about 4k brake jobs. What's freaks me out is the very common complaint transmission failure. People here talk about it like its an absolute and the ones who say their cars are fine barely have 20-25k miles on it. Does anyone know what percentage of these trannys are blowing?? How likely is it to happen?? I want to use mine as a daily driver so I need it to be reliable....very reliable. Obviously people who own these cars are more affluent and may have other vehicles, but how can people here be so secure when these cars have issues like these and so few are actually driving them every day. I cant swallow the idea of replacing a 20k tranny or having my car shipped to another state for a tranny rebuild.

Can someone give me some facts?? Do we have members with 50-60k on them???? arent you worried about transmission failure?? I dont see the value of these cars holding very well once they are off all warranties. It seems like buying this car is asking for trouble if you want to drive it hard all of the time. Seems like its has the type of issues that a 90's American car would have with the tranny. I need some help. Thanks
 

·
R36 Member
Joined
·
796 Posts
The transmission concern is a valid one, however -- there are packages out there that fix the issue. Shep has an "essentials" package that fixes the main concerns with the transmission for a reasonable price. Additionally, there is a 5 year, 60,000 mile warranty on the drivetrain if you do not plan on modifying your GTR.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will check out shep. I guess my concern is what happens after 60k miles??? The issue is that most people dont even have 30k on their cars yet
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Subscribed.

This is a bit of a concern for those of us in Australia. Nissan have screwed us with a one time only 3 year / 100,000kms (which ever comes first) warranty, which cannot be extended.... As a result, there are so many 2009 cars up for sale over here with varying low kms (5,000-30,000) - Because after 3 years of ownership, the warranty is gooooone prompting everyone to sell up because of the cost to fix this transmission reliability issue alone...

I don't do that many kms in my GT-R every year - probably about 7500, and I was going to keep my GT-R for at least 5 years - but now I'm thinking I'm not really wanting to wait around to find out how much the repairs would cost out of warranty.... eeeek!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
I feel the same way about the GTR. The reason why GTR is much quicker than its competitor is due to its launch mode and fancy dual clutch transmission which gives it a linear, uninterrupted acceleration. Engine technology has already been maxed out (Horse power / liter displacement, super charging, and turbo charging). The real recent game changer in performance now comes from the transmission and ceramic brakes. Although these new technology are great for the performance numbers, they are expensive to run over long term. Many sportscar drivers are fine with changing cars every 3 to 4 years because they crave the best performance money can buy. The money you lose on depreciation goes against costly repair down the road. At similar class and price points, new cars will always be faster and better performing than old cars. Most Ferrari owners I know buy the latest new cars, drive it for a year or two and trade it in for another new model before the warranty expires. They are never stuck with any repair bill and always drive the best cars money can buy. It is a pay to play game in the car world. Motoring is an expensive hobby indeed. Men and their cars is like women and their endless pursuit of shoes, hand bags, and jewelry. The day you stop looking is the day you are too old to drive


On the other hand. If you are not concerned about winning races and impressing your friends at a race track, there are plenty of reliable sports cars you can own for many years. Pick a Lotus Exige / Elise, Acura NSX for instance. It is a relatively trouble free car (engine/transmission). Does not have any fancy electric options and uses a manual transmission. If you blow an engine or transmission at the track, the engine and clutch assembly can be cheaply rebuilt. Aluminum and Fiberglass clams don't do well in impacts but will not rust with time. If you line up these cars against the Nissan GTR, you will lose every time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Subscribed.

This is a bit of a concern for those of us in Australia. Nissan have screwed us with a one time only 3 year / 100,000kms (which ever comes first) warranty, which cannot be extended.... As a result, there are so many 2009 cars up for sale over here with varying low kms (5,000-30,000) - Because after 3 years of ownership, the warranty is gooooone prompting everyone to sell up because of the cost to fix this transmission reliability issue alone...

I don't do that many kms in my GT-R every year - probably about 7500, and I was going to keep my GT-R for at least 5 years - but now I'm thinking I'm not really wanting to wait around to find out how much the repairs would cost out of warranty.... eeeek!
This is what I was saying yesterday. What is going to happen when these cars get over 60k. Seems like everyone is still less than 30-35k. I was told today by a Nissan rep that the GTR does have an extendable warranty up to 120K but the warranty was $12000. Sounds reasonable to me. I just need to find a 2011 with low miles and still within the 3yr/36k mile warranty window
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
Dont panic these cars and/or their transmission are not made out of glass. Other than good fluid choices and maybe a front circlip there is little if anything that needs to be done to the GR6. Sometimes the fully built aftermarket transmissions can exhibit less reliability than a well looked after stock piece

Take that as fact.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Dont panic these cars and/or their transmission are not made out of glass. Other than good fluid choices and maybe a front circlip there is little if anything that needs to be done to the GR6. Sometimes the fully built aftermarket transmissions can exhibit less reliability than a well looked after stock piece

Take that as fact.....
Well my transmission was running Willall WR35TM and it still failed. It seems the fluid choice didn't help me!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Dont panic these cars and/or their transmission are not made out of glass. Other than good fluid choices and maybe a front circlip there is little if anything that needs to be done to the GR6. Sometimes the fully built aftermarket transmissions can exhibit less reliability than a well looked after stock piece

Take that as fact.....
Clutch seals would be the other thing I would do.

Admittedly, fixing these units now isn't impossible or stupid expensive. It is the Achilles heel of the platform, but not the $18,000 lump it started out as.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Well my transmission was running Willall WR35TM and it still failed. It seems the fluid choice didn't help me!!
Based on your description, I believe yours would have failed with any fluid. Nissan weighed in on replacement or not?

BTW if anybody really wants to "get the red out" when doing tranny fluid, you must pull the pan and the filters, and you need 10 quarts to refill when you do that.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,396 Posts
Clutch seals would be the other thing I would do.

Admittedly, fixing these units now isn't impossible or stupid expensive. It is the Achilles heel of the platform, but not the $18,000 lump it started out as.

Shawn
Right, a $5 circlip,and a $10 seal, with $5k labor. This is what is stopping me... If it was $100 labor, I'd have done it already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Right, a $5 circlip,and a $10 seal, with $5k labor. This is what is stopping me... If it was $100 labor, I'd have done it already.
I understand. Me too. I believe I could complete this task myself, but prefer to give it to somebody who can do it better than me.

Also, no less than a four hour drive is also required.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
Well my transmission was running Willall WR35TM and it still failed. It seems the fluid choice didn't help me!!
Transmission fluid isnt going to stop your front circlip falling off, a pressure sensor failing due to faulty manufacture (as happened to you), or a synchro breaking due to incorrect clearance. These are mechanical design and manufacturing problems in the transmission. A properly specced transmission fluid like WR35TM will stop the accelerated gear face wear and reduce the chance of - mechanical - breakage that these transmissions see. Thats proven.

As for the cost of fitting parts to a transmission....the GR6 isnt a lot harder than a normal IRS rear differential to bolt in/out....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Transmission fluid isnt going to stop your front circlip falling off, a pressure sensor failing, or a synchro breaking. These are mechanical design and manufacturing problems in the transmission.
And shitty seals, and improper shift fork tolerance.

A properly specced transmission fluid like WR35TM will stop the accelerated gear face wear that these transmissions see. Thats proven.
WR35TM and WR35TMVS have been a part of my transmission preventative maintainance for quite some time now.

This is the result:
http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31195-shawn-hayes-gt-r-maintainance-thread/page__view__findpost__p__818843

I challenge anybody using OEM or Pentosin who tracks regularly to show me similar results - cooler or not. I may stand corrected, but everything I know about lubricants says ---- no way.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Have you guys tried NEO Synthetic transmission oil for the GTR gearbox? I have been using their prototype oil and it feels good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Based on your description, I believe yours would have failed with any fluid. Nissan weighed in on replacement or not?

BTW if anybody really wants to "get the red out" when doing tranny fluid, you must pull the pan and the filters, and you need 10 quarts to refill when you do that.

Shawn
If you happen to have any oem fluid sitting around could you do a test and put some of it in a glass and then pour some wr35tm into the same glass and see if it separates? Does the willall sit on top? I have a suspicion it is lighter than the oem and as such will come out the drain tube first. If so one might be able to get rid of most of the red by adding oem to the transmission until all the red floats to the top and drain out.. That's my theory based on very limited experience anyway...

Regarding replacement, I have decided to stop chiming in here about that until after a warranty decision has been made and the transmission repair is complete...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
If you happen to have any oem fluid sitting around could you do a test and put some of it in a glass and then pour some wr35tm into the same glass and see if it separates? Does the willall sit on top? I have a suspicion it is lighter than the oem and as such will come out the drain tube first. If so one might be able to get rid of most of the red by adding oem to the transmission until all the red floats to the top and drain out.. That's my theory based on very limited experience anyway...

Regarding replacement, I have decided to stop chiming in here about that until after a warranty decision has been made and the transmission repair is complete...
When "poured" into each other, they do not mix as you have thought. I believe the WillAll sits on top as well until they are agitated. Your theory is mostly right, because there will be WillAll in the valve body, and two filters, but pouring the OEM fluid in will "float away" a lot of the WillAll. *edit* I cannot test the theory right now because I have mixed in all my OEM fluids in other containers*

Once the vehicle starts up, and the circulating pump starts, the fluids mix. If you have mostly OEM, it will likely go moslly green, but I cannot say for sure. When you don't pull the pan, there's a lot of retained fluid in the filters and valve body.

Good luck on the tranny.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,844 Posts
When "poured" into each other, they do not mix as you have thought. I believe the WillAll sits on top as well until they are agitated. Your theory is mostly right, because there will be WillAll in the valve body, and two filters, but pouring the OEM fluid in will "float away" a lot of the WillAll. *edit* I cannot test the theory right now because I have mixed in all my OEM fluids in other containers* Once the vehicle starts up, and the circulating pump starts, the fluids mix. If you have mostly OEM, it will likely go moslly green, but I cannot say for sure. When you don't pull the pan, there's a lot of retained fluid in the filters and valve body.
Shawn base WR35TM and OEM transmission fluid are entreily misible. You dont need much agitation to have them mix into a greenish colour. The amount left in the transmission from a drain of WR35TM and then fill with OEM will give a completely OEM looking result.

If its OEM coloration thats required - we do that - WR35TML

Which one is which?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Shawn base WR35TM and OEM transmission fluid are entreily misible. You dont need much agitation to have them mix into a greenish colour. The amount left in the transmission from a drain of WR35TM and then fill with OEM will give a completely OEM looking result.

If its OEM coloration thats required - we do that - WR35TML

Which one is which?
OEM is top left. WIllall is the other, and that's from memory... You need better color matching!
I wish the WR35TM was green as well...
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top