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951Zilla
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320 Posts
Wow you are one patient man! I grew up poor so I have a problem with being patient. I have parts that I still haven't ordered because I don't want to wait the 5-7 days from ebay lol. After 1 year and 7 months I would have gone into a vegetative state from all of the anxiety that would have ensued. Excuse my ignorance but what is the steel braided line going to your rear diff for? is that some sort of sensor? Whats that box pictured just forward of your diff with another steel braided line coming from it? Man those greddy intake pipes are so sexy! I need dis!
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
The latest update:

I've now have the car back from the body shop. Here are a few pics before she goes back down to get the clutch release bearing and transmission cooler replaced. Hoping to have her all ready to go for Buttonwillow on the 23rd of this month.
Can you post pics of the finished install. I am going to be doing the same mod shortly.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
Installing Do Lucks DTM2. It can be ran 2 ways. You can just plug it in and use the 4 presets or you can take the provided throttle wire and spline it into the ecu throttle output. Pretty straight forward install.

Getting the whip ready for Rs Day!
Whats the advantage of hooking it into the ecu throttle output?
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
With the DTM2, it gives you more presets and customizing options to play with.

The DTM2 when hooked up without tapping into the ecu gives you 4 output options:

G1-Do Luck Digital Gensor
G2-Tarzan Box
G3-oem setting
G4-custom(you can set the percentage of front and rear)

When you tap the DTM2 into the ecus Throttle output you get 3 ARX output options:

A1-street
A2-circuit
A3-pure gain

Aki(in japan) and Ito San have written a better explaination on all the output options. Heres the link:

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2013/10/do-lucks-dtm-ii-part-2-initial-set-up.html?m=1

http://www.r33gt-r.com/2013/10/do-lucks-dtm-ii-part-3-some-more-info.html?m=1

I went with the DTM m2 over the other G Senors is because i wanted more options an able to customize it when i need to. I know most people that i was able to get G sensors for went with the Tarzan GBox or the Digital G sensor which is pug nplay. Which is totally fine they dont wang to mess around with anything.

The new G sensor wont be coming out till January. Its basically the ARX mode in the DTM2 in a smaller box(plug n play) that allows you to adjust the pure gain toggles and have the options of A1 and A2. I was able to test this out at Buttonwillow and loved it.
Very interesting I'd love to see how each setting drives. Screw these new car drive modes now days lol.

Oh forgot to post this. Picked up these N1 headlights right before i left for Japan. It was great to have hem at the house once i returned. Going to install them later tonight or tomorrow. Ill try to do a video with the DTM2 as well.
How much were they? I need a set but I am still trying to convince myself Im okay to spend 500$ on them. I'm torn between these and a retrofit.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
Aren't the N1 lights just bog standard reflectors? Slightly lighter but worse for street use? I would stick with stock projectors, they should have a clean cutoff. You may want to retrofit HID projectors or just modify the cutoff for LHD use.
The Oem projectors suck fat D, Borderline unsafe in my case. I have had them disassembled at least 3 times playing with different settings. There are adjustment limitations in the design of the factory projector style. Even with HID's installed it sucks. Unless you do a retrofit, you are going to have to do some soul searching for acceptance in what your ultimately going to get. They are garbage that's why everyone goes n1. Without modding things the cuttoff is the worst I have ever seen. I dont bother drive the car at night right now.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
Is it true N1 headlights = GTS headlights + brackets? I'm finding conflicting information... Also, when I search for OEM part number more than one turned up for N1, so that confuses me even more because I highly doubt Nissan would make different headlights for N1...
I was told from a few sources this is true. Ive been kicking myself for passing up a 40$ set of gts lights last year.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
Looking good man. Your part selection is always top notch. It sucks to see that trunk get disrespected like that. How much was it if you don't mind me asking? I just ordered one of Leasks catch can setups last night. I can't wait to get it installed.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
How bad is it? Got a pic? I think it would have to be pretty bad in order to not be able to get it off in car still. Have you tried putting a gator grip on it? No seriously lol.. that thing has gotten me out of some serious crap. I have, and have seen people remove some crazy stripped nuts with a reverse bit and a drill.

Also just because your engine is out doesn't mean anything in the world of spline drive installation. If anything, engine out is barely 1ft in a mile journey. The bottom end still have to come apart. Supertec said they dont have an iteration that works with the hks pump. Idk what you have but they told me I have to go with the Tomei. You may want to make sure your pump is on thier compatible list. I am going to get a Tomei and have it done if I pull my 2.8 out again during this next round of changes.
 

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951Zilla
Joined
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320 Posts
Ive seen people grind a flat head shape grove into the bolt, Ive seen people use a reverse bit bolt extractor. I have also seen people tack weld on a handle. unless the head is pretty much smooth you still have options and even then I saw my good friend back one out leveraging the jagged head that was down in the hole. I think you have more options then you realize. I have seen some nasty stripped bolts come out so unless you got happy and went to town to the point that its ground flush it can be removed without dropping the pan.
 
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