Nissan GT-R Forum banner
1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
New mod update!!! Ive been waiting for this special mod for awhile now. I bought a spare passenger mirror and had a friend put a custom live feed camera in it. Heres the painted result. In the pic, the camera isnt completely installed, but you get the idea. The video output goes directly to my stereo monitor so I can see the left side of the car. Itll help me make left hand turns and passing on the left much easier.
I have to say it's nuts how dedicated you are to driving this thing in LA, the number of unprotected left turns and other dangerous situations is just nuts compared to the Bay Area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
Solid power. It looks like you're running a little rich around 6000 RPM though? Getting the AFR to be more like 10.9 to 11.1 or so there instead of all the way down to 10 will probably fix the torque dip there, might be timing related but that would jump out as really strange to see on a timing map. Generally speaking my experience is that anything under mid 10s is going to drown the engine.

Edit: E85 needs to be much, much more rich than what the wideband was reading to make power. E85 stoich is like 9.8:1 AFR and peak power is like 7:1 AFR. I'm pretty sure this is on pump gas.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
The car was tuned in Japan, with their gas. Im giessing trying to find that perfect mixture of crappy 91 of 100 will be interesting. Or I could just run the 100. Im just guessing...
If it was tuned for 98-100 octane in Japan you would be ok with 93-94 octane. RON in Japan is a bigger number for the same fuel relative to AKI.

If it's a PowerFC I would honestly get it retuned. I'm not even sure it has knock control. If you retain the stock MAFs the Haltech Elite 2000/2500 might be a good fit, I've been trying to find the "best street ECU" for the RB26 for a while (plug-in kit, fits cleanly in the car, full support for dual MAF/ITB configuration, long term learning, knock control, etc...) and that's a pretty good option even if stuff like traction control and other features aren't really that great. Stuff like the Link gives me pause because closed loop boost control was 100% broken for quite some time and they only support a single MAF, if you went with a Link you would probably have to convert to a MAP sensor.

If you need a recommendation for tuner I think Church Automotive Testing has been pretty good for us, I might be able to help out as well with the initial setup as well.

If the map isn't encrypted somehow I would probably just pull whatever I could of value and put it on another standalone for base map values.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
The car is using Power FC with R35 MAFs. Theres only 1 map on the car. I believe Power FC can only do 1 map. The car hasnt been knocking, so its a good sign.
I've been running an engine without knock control for quite some time now and nothing bad has happened but the real concern is if someone puts 87-91 octane in the tank or you get a bad batch of fuel (or... or...). The PowerFC is about as advanced as the stock ECU in most dirt bikes in that regard. Not the end of the world and it'll keep working but eventually you probably want to get something more modern. Lots of interesting tricks you can do with the new stuff like power cut on clutch slip, VVT/VCAM control, electronic throttle body control, E85 content sensing/map blending, OBD2 MIL (no emissions monitoring though), closed loop boost control (apply high pressure on the wastegaste while building boost to improve spool, etc), water/meth injection control as well with failsafe map switching.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
The Link G4 Ecu is very popular with the RB26 guys in Europe. It's gaining more popularity in the states now too. It's an extremely advanced ECU that is quite a huge step ahead of the stock ecu and Power FC. Someday I'll probably upgrade to it when I am ready. http://dealers.linkecu.com/NGTRPlus
FWIW, the Link G4 lacks support for MAFs on the RB26. They can only use a single MAF as a load signal. Closed loop boost control was broken as recent as 2 months ago: https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/boost-control/show/link-g4-closed-loop-boost-control

I'm sure it works, but whether it works well is an open question. This stuff worries me a lot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
It eliminates the MAFS altogether as it comes with a 4 bar MAP sensor. There are many tuners that swear by this ecu overseas. I know a few Toyota guys out here that use them and can't say enough good things about them.
I would be reluctant to convert to speed density for a street car without anything else to help it. It's hard to beat MAF systems for steady state accuracy. Even if you use a MAP sensor, it's more something that you use in conjunction with a MAF for stuff like the high load or high RPM parts of the fuel/ignition maps with blending at the crossover point. At small throttle opening you're going to get a very, very noisy MAP signal as the volume of air between the valve and throttle body is tiny so you'll register big pressure changes every time the valve opens up. I don't know a lot but in my experience even a plenum 3x the size of the cylinder you're going to see a fair bit of pressure fluctuation, about 5-10 kPa which was pretty annoying for nailing down our VE/timing tables.

I suspect there is a reason why so many speed density systems use alpha-N blending for part throttle, especially for ITB setups where you don't get to tap a big plenum after the throttle body for a load signal. Yes, you can work around this stuff, but unless you're going for huge power that a MAF can't meter why delete them for an ECU of honestly somewhat questionable quality? None of these ECUs are open source so the only way to tell the quality of their code is to see what kind of bugs show up. Any major bugs are huge red flags for me, an ECU is what I would consider to be a safety critical system especially if it's controlling the throttle body by wire. Even without DBW you might have to trust the ECU to control the wastegate properly if it has electronic boost control so you don't blow up your engine among a long list of many other things that the ECU can't screw up.

This might sound like fear mongering but honestly, it's easy for developers of these ECUs to hack together code with shoddy practices and quality and ship it hoping that nothing goes wrong. Tuners are not embedded systems engineers, they aren't going to be able to tell what things look like beneath the surface especially because all of these ECUs are closed source. There are many, many examples of bad code causing major disasters in embedded systems from Toyota unintended acceleration cases to the Ariane 5 explosion to a huge litany of security flaws in many modern smartphones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
The new camera came in today and its big. The plan now is to refab the housing to fit the new camera, but test the camera and image quality before doing all that. Hopefully its better. **crossing fingers**

Camera: Crime Stopper SV-6706-IR
Looks like it adds an IR flash? That will probably help with night time driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
How much were they? I need a set but I am still trying to convince myself Im okay to spend 500$ on them. I'm torn between these and a retrofit.
Aren't the N1 lights just bog standard reflectors? Slightly lighter but worse for street use? I would stick with stock projectors, they should have a clean cutoff. You may want to retrofit HID projectors or just modify the cutoff for LHD use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
Driving to Buttonwillow at night last 2 months ago with no lights on the highway was interesting with regular projectors. My friend has the n1 but with H4 lights. You can see lot more plus i like how the n1 lights look. When i was at Nismofestival last weekend. All he r32s i saw had n1 lights too. I picked them up for $1000. Included the brackets and all the rubber seals.
Are they just dim or are the cutoffs not very good for LHD use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
i put new bulbs in when i got the car. Was never satisfied with it. I just pulled trigger.

I finally have the Dtm2 hooked and running. Ill post a video soon.
Sounds good. I think the DTM2 is probably as far as this method of ATTESA tuning goes, any further and you probably want to just use the full race controller that replaces the stock ATTESA controller.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
The Oem projectors suck fat D, Borderline unsafe in my case. I have had them disassembled at least 3 times playing with different settings. There are adjustment limitations in the design of the factory projector style. Even with HID's installed it sucks. Unless you do a retrofit, you are going to have to do some soul searching for acceptance in what your ultimately going to get. They are garbage that's why everyone goes n1. Without modding things the cuttoff is the worst I have ever seen. I dont bother drive the car at night right now.
That's shitty. I thought the projectors were maybe just like modern halogen projectors, maybe just mildly worse transmission of light. The LS400 I currently drive uses HIDs in a reflector housing (yes, it's OEM) so I'm kind of surprised that a car from the early 90s uses projectors in any shape or form. Maybe the technology just wasn't ready yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
Ive just about had it with using Motul. Mutol 300v is the best for the rb engine when comes to tracking your car. This time around Im going with Torco for the engine(TORCO SR5R GDL 5W4) and transmission(Torco SGO 75w140).
Right now the transmission is using Redline shockheavy. I have no complaints with using redline at all. I just want to see how Torco will compare because it was highly recommended to me. The diffs will be redline for now. Next weekend, we shall see how it holds up.
Pretty sure oil is just oil... As long as it's the correct grade and full synthetic pretty much anything should work.

I would be a little concerned about the correct viscosity for the engine. I've seen people use as high as 10W60 for track work vs 5W30 for the stock engine in stock tasks (low cold start wear, light driving, etc..)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
334 Posts
Im telling you, Motul 300v came out dirty and watery after. Wasnt good. Ill report back on how Torco holds up after next weekend at Spring Mountain. Im also planning to head back to Laguna Seca in June.
I've heard that the 300V stuff has less detergents or something like that? No clue. I'm surprised that you can't just run Mobil1 or whatever the cheapest full synth is at Walmart.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top