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Definitely. I thought about machining my own but after finding it I ordered two for both of my gtr's. We'll see if it helps or not.
Knocking from bellhousing
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Did you purchase both sizes?
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I ordered two pre and two post crank. Going to try it out on the 4.1 first and see if that takes care of the noise. If it does I'll install it on my 2016 when I replace the bellhousing.
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Thanks and the best of luck to you
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why was your flywheel powder coated?
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It wasn't powder coated. It had a coating. Probably anodized. It might even be paint honestly.
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This is what it looks like. I'm guessing it's paint or anodized.
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this could be the problem.
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From what I can tell everything I can buy has some sort of coating on it. What are you thinking could be the problem? I ground everything down nice and smooth to bare metal and I'm waiting on the Cicio washers to put it back together to see what's up. I also welded up the crank and used a jig to machine it all nice and flat. Looks brand new. But if I need a non coated flywheel I can replace it. But again from what I'm seeing everything is either painted or anodized.
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imho the force is being transferred from bare metal to metal, not the studs transfer the force. so if there is paint on it i might be the cause. but u said the area is bare metal
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It's currently bare metal but I haven't put it back together yet. Waiting on the washers. After I throw it back together I'll know if it's something engine related or if it was just the flywheel. It's just weird to have any issues from slowing down quickly. I've never had that before.
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That would be good news. Since I removed the flywheel and bellhousing I removed all of the coating on the back of the flywheel, welded in the low spots in the back of the crankshaft, machined everything nice and flat and am currently waiting on the cicio spacer to throw it all back together. If it was that was what was making all the noise, the noise should be gone or at the very least change in how it sounds after I throw it back together. The only other thing I think it could be would be a rod bearing but I honestly just don't see how that can happen on one of these motors. I should know later this week or next week at the latest depending on shipping.
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Could this possibly be the T1 GT1R or ETS Flywheel they are two that I found with a black coating?
OEM and others seem to be bare metal.
OEM and others seem to be bare metal.
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It`s not really a problem in itself being black the problem is they have coated the surface under the bolt heads and most probably the surface that makes contact with the crank black.Tilton (T1/ETS) is indeed black.
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Not good engineering.
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Think it was a JV between T1/ETS and Tilton so doubt it there are any issues with engineering as it’s sold on the shelf. If OP made any changes well then yes I would agree. Think the black oxide helps during the hardening process.
T1 also sells a flywheel ARP bolt upgrade to help stop fretting.
www.t1racedevelopment.com
T1 also sells a flywheel ARP bolt upgrade to help stop fretting.
GT1R R35 Flywheel Bolts - T1 Race Development
GT1R/Titan Motorsports R35 ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit Leading the path to big horsepower from the VR38, we’ve found many parts aren’t up to the task of reliably delivering performance beyond Nissan’s original spec. We’ve seen multiple cases now of fretting of the flywheel to the crank, typically...
www.t1racedevelopment.com
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Yes, I agree with what you say. When you don`t have all of the information it`s easy to come to the wrong conclusion.Think it was a JV between T1/ETS and Tilton so doubt it there are any issues with engineering as it’s sold on the shelf. If OP made any changes well then yes I would agree. Think the black oxide helps during the hardening process.
T1 also sells a flywheel ARP bolt upgrade to help stop fretting.
GT1R R35 Flywheel Bolts - T1 Race Development
GT1R/Titan Motorsports R35 ARP Flywheel Bolt Kit Leading the path to big horsepower from the VR38, we’ve found many parts aren’t up to the task of reliably delivering performance beyond Nissan’s original spec. We’ve seen multiple cases now of fretting of the flywheel to the crank, typically...
I would use engineers blue between the crank and flywheel torque them together loosen off the bolts again and look at the contact patch.
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That is the flywheel that I am using. The coating has kind of clump up and worn off in different spots. I sanded it down smooth and will reinstall with some blue to see what's what after it's all said and done. When I removed it there was abot 20% material not making contact because of the fretting. Hoping after my repair and Cicio washer I wont have any more issues.
Again the car was driving great up until I started down shifting from about 90 quickly while braking hard. Was testing everything to make sure the car was ready for a half mile event next month but obviously something went wrong.
Again the car was driving great up until I started down shifting from about 90 quickly while braking hard. Was testing everything to make sure the car was ready for a half mile event next month but obviously something went wrong.
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Great, in my opinion as long as you have no paint under the bolt heads and between the crank and flywheel causing a "sandwich" effect and good solid contact as close to 100% as you can get, then you can`t do more. Painting a surface (if that is indeed the case) that has previously been machined flat that is to be mated with another flat unpainted surface is a bit of a conundrum to me, never come across that before?
I don`t know if you document stuff but it`s a good habit to get into in case of future problems. Plenty of photos is never wrong.
Very interesting post you`ve created by the way.
I don`t know if you document stuff but it`s a good habit to get into in case of future problems. Plenty of photos is never wrong.
Very interesting post you`ve created by the way.
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