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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Let me start by saying that I have searched and done a lot of reading on this. I have a general idea of what I should be looking at, but would love some specific advice for my particular situation. I have a modified 2010 running PFC Directdrive rotors and PFC-01 pads for now - see my sig for the other mods.

I use my GTR as my daily driver, but with a relatively short (14 mile round trip) daily commute. I go to the track about 7-8 times per year and would characterize myself as a high-intermediate/low-advanced driver. I am too lazy to change out pads before and after each track event. I am planning to stick with the PFC rotors (already have a spare set of front rotors).

The PFC-01 pads were fine for me on the track and I had no issues on the street, even when cold. They were pretty noisy at very low speeds, and that was occasionally embarrassing at stop lights, but that is a very minor factor for me.

My front pads are starting to get worn down and I am trying to figure out what my next set of pads is going to be. Based on my reading, I am heading towards either the Endless MX-72s or the Hawk DTC-60/70s. When choosing between these pads, these are the pros and cons as far as I can tell:

MX-72: Relatively quiet on the street which would be nice, but not a huge factor for me. Good mix of street and track pad, but kind of expensive.

DTC-70s: More aggressive track pad with good track performance. Very good price. I am assuming they will be noisier on the street, but I am more concerned with rotor wear. Will these things just chew up my rotors during my daily driving, offsetting the cost savings for the pads themselves?

Would love the community's thoughts on which pads (including others I have not mentioned) would be best for me.

Thanks!
 

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GTR Nerd
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What kind of rotor temps do you see on the track?

Lots of brake pad choice would be based on rotor temps.

Running a race pad on the street, below its operating temp is bad for the rotor, but a lot of guys do it. Something has to wear in the relationship.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Unfortunately, I have not been measuring my rotor temps at the track. I will do so during my next track day, but was wondering if anyone had recommendations absent that data.
 

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Thanks to Decartesfool , I'm a huge fan of the performance vs price Hawk DTC-70s(F)/60s (R). I don't do that much stop n go street driving to concern myself with accelerated rotor wear, so not a concern. I also do approx 8 track days a yr and am an intermediate.My last set of (front) AP J hooks lasted 2 yrs.
 

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I run DTC-60's/70's on the street and track on my PFC rotors, and they are not chewing up the rotors. Like most everyone, I'm too lazy to change back and forth to street pads and rotors at each event. It's better if you bed them semi-regularly as street driving wears off the adhesive layer put on in the bedding process. I don't do tons of street mileage with my GT-R, as it's now 2-1/2 years of 3 season driving and I have 22,000 kms on it. And most of those miles are on the highway without much if any braking, and I don't drive too aggressively on the street (track is a different story). If you are going to drive your car for thousands of street miles, then best to change to street pads. Until someone shows me a compelling argument to pay up to or more than twice as much as for the Hawk pads, I'm not changing. I always buy front pads in sets of two and I'm always in need of a new set. GT-R is hard on pads and tires and gasoline on lapping days. Only other pad I've tried on the GT-R were Carbotech XP-12's, and Hawks last at least 50% longer for me on track, and they're cheaper. I looked at PFC pads, and recent GRM test shows them to be the same performance as the Hawks, but again, more expensive. No idea on wear with the PFC pads though. Pad wear is significantly dependent on how hot you get them. I tend to brake at the last possible point and full-on in as short a distance as possible, so pads get very hot, past the AP Racing red temperature paint turning point, so too hot really. But until a good air cooling solution comes along, I just have to live with it. If one drives the car at lower intensity, brake pads and tires will last much longer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks all. Descartesfool - I think you've sold me on the Hawks (you should talk to Hawk about getting a commission :). My main concern was rotor wear, but I don't have a long commute so I am not going to worry too much about that. Do you mind posting or sending me a PM with where you buy your pads. I've done a price search, but I expect you've found the best place to get these...
 

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After reading that comparison, I might have to try the Hawks. I'm currently running the CL RC6E's front and RC6's rear.

Question for Descartesfool: do you run the DTC 70 in the front and 60 in the rear? Since I track with the OEM Dunlops, I'm thinking 60's on all for corners for me. Thoughts?
 

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After reading that comparison, I might have to try the Hawks. I'm currently running the CL RC6E's front and RC6's rear.
You need some heat paint, and caliper stickers. Get some rotor temps, and then can base some pad recommendations on the heat range.
 

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Has anyone tried the EBC Blues ? I track them in a Subaru and they hold up well on the street and the track.
 

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You need some heat paint, and caliper stickers. Get some rotor temps, and then can base some pad recommendations on the heat range.
I have the caliper stickers that I got from you. I just haven't used them yet. Any good sources for heat paint to put on the rotor edges?
 

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I have the caliper stickers that I got from you. I just haven't used them yet. Any good sources for heat paint to put on the rotor edges?
We have the AP Paint - it reads to
http://www.stillen.com/product.asp?id=APRPK01&c=BR&year=&make=&model=
"An effective method of checking maximum disc operating temperature is by using temperature paints applied to the disc AP racing paint kit contains three paints, Green (turns white at 430°C), Orange (turns yellow at 560°C) and Red (turns white at 610°C) plus thinners and brushes. "

There is another brand, called Genesis that reads to 800+ C.

"Temperature readings ranging from 0° to 800°+ Celcius (0° to 1471° Fahrenheit) are displayed over a six color change from cold to hot. The bottle features a Metal Cap with a Horsehair Brush for quick and easy application on any surface, such as rear end housings, transmission cases, brake rotors or exhaust pipes. Packaged in a plastic carrying jar, the bottle also features brake temperature color code guide on the bottle for quick temperature reference."

GT-R rotors get hot. Hot hot.

What you are going to want to do is apply the paint to all 4 rotors at the edge. Just a small strip, over a couple of vanes. Go out and drive. Then record - take photos- and get the reading off each. Note it in your note book, along with other information. Then take a wire brush and clean the old stuff off. Hit it with some brake clean, and put some more on. I would check it after each session.

On the Scion, preparing for the 25 hour, did a lot of work with trying to keep the brakes as cool as possible to minimize brake pad stops. We saw driver to driver differences of at least one heat range on the Genesis paint. Oddly enough, the faster driver, the rotors were cooler.
 

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Thanks all. Descartesfool - I think you've sold me on the Hawks (you should talk to Hawk about getting a commission :). My main concern was rotor wear, but I don't have a long commute so I am not going to worry too much about that. Do you mind posting or sending me a PM with where you buy your pads. I've done a price search, but I expect you've found the best place to get these...
Same here, he's the reason why I switched. I had 70s on all four corners and they were great. Roughly the same bite as the RC8s yet far less noisy. No fade on the track. Cheap as far as GTR pads go.
 
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