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· R35 Owner
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For whatever reason, maybe from having a more aggressive tune, ported and polished intake, in combination with me going through the entire fuel system and maximizing total efficiency, I seem to have a more aggressive e85 FBO setup than most and keep breaking stuff. Darrin has ridden in my car and he also has a nearly identical e85 FBO minus the ported intake and crazy tune, and he feels a big difference in how much harder my car pulls. I've raced a stage one turbo'd GTR four times from a low roll and a dig and kept ahead until 125mph every time; and I have raced my own Alpha 7 McLaren and match it to 150mph which is staggering because that car is about a 10 flat in the quarter with nearly 140 trap and weighs 800lbs less.

The reason I'm saying all this is because I have been breaking stuff left and right and want to know if it's worth investing anymore into beefing up this car, or should I look into detuning or just quit launching altogether. After shattering 1st gear, I now have a hybrid staged tranny from Shep with forged baskets, forged 1st gear, upgraded clutches, etc. I snapped my FWD driveshaft the following week. I got a built driveshaft from Shep I just installed today. Now I think my FWD diff may be going as it makes a clicking sound at very low speeds and especially when turning. Not the usual loose axle nut, brakes, or rotor hat clicking, this sounds like a tooth missing. I don't know how higher HP guys keep up, but I seem to be on the teetering edge of the next big break. What else could go next, or will this likely be the last weak link? I do launch a lot on LC5+, although lately I've turned it down to a 3500RPM launch after the built trans as my 0-60's are in the crazy sub 2.4 sec range with no rollout.

Assuming this is the last big thing that can break on my setup, what front diff option should I get? I do track the car on a road coarse so I don't want to lose cornering.

Thanks.
 

· R.I.P. Paul Walker
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Did u upgrade your rods? How much power exactly are you making and on what dyno? You could've or maybe should've just taken out the transmission from the beginning once realizing the power you were making and built the tranny once. Full gears.

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Sounds like you need a new front diff. every couple years. I changed my out on precaution at 13000 miles. Maybe your front diff is having slight issue causing the front driveshaft to snap. Part of the game, harder you drive, the more it breaks.
 

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Don't turn it down Jason!

Let's see what she does at the track in the fall. I would put a stickier tire out back than you have in the front.

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· Sophisticated
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I have been breaking stuff left and right and want to know if it's worth investing anymore into beefing up this car, or should I look into detuning or just quit launching altogether. After shattering 1st gear, I now have a hybrid staged tranny from Shep with forged baskets, forged 1st gear, upgraded clutches, etc. I snapped my FWD driveshaft the following week. I got a built driveshaft from Shep I just installed today. Now I think my FWD diff may be going as it makes a clicking sound at very low speeds and especially when turning. Not the usual loose axle nut, brakes, or rotor hat clicking, this sounds like a tooth missing. I don't know how higher HP guys keep up, but I seem to be on the teetering edge of the next big break. What else could go next, or will this likely be the last weak link? I do launch a lot on LC5+, although lately I've turned it down to a 3500RPM launch after the built trans as my 0-60's are in the crazy sub 2.4 sec range with no rollout.
It's stories like this that make me glad I stopped at a tune and midi. The 6-7mph at the end of the 1/4 is just not worth all the headache and $$. IMHO. Not to mention your rods are probably screaming. That could be a huge bill if your not careful.

The one thing I have learned over the years is making big power always sacrifices reliability.

I think the 650S is probably one of the best go fast bang for your buck cars on sale at the moment. You can run 10 flat at almost 140mph and be 100% stock under warranty and with low strain on the engine.
 

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It's stories like this that make me glad I stopped at a tune and midi. The 6-7mph at the end of the 1/4 is just not worth all the headache and $$. IMHO. Not to mention your rods are probably screaming. That could be a huge bill if your not careful.

The one thing I have learned over the years is making big power always sacrifices reliability.

I think the 650S is probably one of the best go fast bang for your buck cars on sale at the moment. You can run 10 flat at almost 140mph and be 100% stock under warranty and with low strain on the engine.
This guy is pushing his STOCK car to the brink with not just parts, but also an AGGRESSIVE tune which is the problem. So if you did downpipes, tune, e85 etc. and had it well tuned the car would run forever. You shouldn't be worried on this platform.

Sounds like he got the trans done to be safe for awhile, and honestly if he's trapping 140s it'll probably be safe on stock rods/pistons mine traps 145-148 and is fine on stock rods for the last 7k miles with HKS turbos... But you need to make sure you're ok if something goes wrong and thats a 10-20k bill if you blow the engine.

OP you need
-Rods/Pistons especially if your power is coming on LOW and hard
-Probably axles if you keep wanting to beat on it

And honestly with those things it'll be good to make 700-900whp and should be perfectly safe.
 

· Knowledge is recession proof!
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Don't turn it down Jason!

Let's see what she does at the track in the fall. I would put a stickier tire out back than you have in the front.

Sent from my iPhone using GT-R Life mobile app
Good advice here. For those that launch a lot, getting stickier tires in the rear will help prevent the rears from spinning excessively. You haven't mentioned your wheel/tire specs. If there's too much of a height disparity from front to back, this will also kill your FWD unit. Problem sounds like you already did something to the front drive line. I'd have the ETS looked at.
 

· Sophisticated
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mine traps 145-148 and is fine

And honestly with those things it'll be good to make 700-900whp and should be perfectly safe.
I've seen way to many people running aftermarket turbo's blow their engines to agree with you here. It's not just a matter of keeping the Midrange TQ low.

How long do you truly believe an uncracked GT-R engine will last pushing 700+WHP? My honest advice is that a turbo upgrade is not worth it unless you build your block.

Good read.
http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/70821-budget-turbo-upgrade-warning-e-wang-alert/
 

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I've seen way to many people running aftermarket turbo's blow their engines to agree with you here. It's not just a matter of keeping the Midrange TQ low.

How long do you truly believe an uncracked GT-R engine will last pushing 700+WHP? My honest advice is that a turbo upgrade is not worth it unless you build your block.

Good read.
http://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/70821-budget-turbo-upgrade-warning-e-wang-alert/
Yep. And track mph varies more than you'd think.
 

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Op isn't trapping 140 on full weight gtr on stock turbos. He be lucky to trap 135 mph now in FL summer. I think he uses gtech so hard to compare to vbox numbers. A pull of 60-130 time would show how strong it is. I have ran guys with build motor and bigger turbos. With the hit, they can't pass me before 170 mph but I know it should out trap me by at least 3-5 mph.

Sounds like he got the trans done to be safe for awhile, and honestly if he's trapping 140s it'll probably be safe on stock rods/pistons mine traps 145-148 and is fine on stock rods for the last 7k miles with HKS turbos... But you need to make sure you're ok if something goes wrong and thats a 10-20k bill if you blow the engine.

And honestly with those things it'll be good to make 700-900whp and should be perfectly safe.
 

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The OP simply "thinks" his car is making all that power and trapping 140. I see no timeslip or vbox data.

My guess is spin and wheel hop causing the issues. Not to say his tune isn't pushing it,!it could be.
 

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I just had my ETS go out. You can test it by turning your steering wheel all the way to one side then put the car in reverse and it should move on its own without giving it gas. Do the same with a forward gear, again it should move forward without giving it gas.

If it does not then pull the fwd prop shaft and see if it will roll on its own then. Thats how they tested mine at Jotech.

In all honesty take the car and have it put on a dyno and see what you are actually putting down. Stay aroung the lower 600s and you will be fine. I have been FBO e85 for 14k miles make now 340+ trips down the track with no issue. We are 99% sure the ETS went out due to the Toyo being the wrong size not from the track use. I now run the Dodson ETS with a stage 2.5 sheptrans and feel very confident in the car,
 

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Handful of 9.9 @ 138 cars and plenty low 10s @ 136 that don't have this issue. I suspect wheel hop or tire variance causing this. Are you dry launching the car before launch to heat tires ?

Op: are you using vbox to record the 0-60? And 0-100?

What tires are you running ? What 60 ft are you seeing? You shouldn't break anything in the 1.5x's

On a stocl turbo car, you won't see more than 10hp from a ported intake. IIRC there were back to back dynos posted of this last year. The turbos are what is limiting you now.
 

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I just had my ETS go out. You can test it by turning your steering wheel all the way to one side then put the car in reverse and it should move on its own without giving it gas. Do the same with a forward gear, again it should move forward without giving it gas.

If it does not then pull the fwd prop shaft and see if it will roll on its own then. Thats how they tested mine at Jotech.

In all honesty take the car and have it put on a dyno and see what you are actually putting down. Stay aroung the lower 600s and you will be fine. I have been FBO e85 for 14k miles make now 340+ trips down the track with no issue. We are 99% sure the ETS went out due to the Toyo being the wrong size not from the track use. I now run the Dodson ETS with a stage 2.5 sheptrans and feel very confident in the car,
I don't think my GTR ever moved on its own with the steering full lock forward or backward, but that may be due to the my CC setting.
 

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I don't think my GTR ever moved on its own with the steering full lock forward or backward, but that may be due to the my CC setting.
This would be in neutral with the car off to check to see if the front diff is binding. TP shouldn't impact that.
 

· R35 Owner
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391 Posts
Handful of 9.9 @ 138 cars and plenty low 10s @ 136 that don't have this issue. I suspect wheel hop or tire variance causing this. Are you dry launching the car before launch to heat tires ?

Op: are you using vbox to record the 0-60? And 0-100?

What tires are you running ? What 60 ft are you seeing? You shouldn't break anything in the 1.5x's

On a stock turbo car, you won't see more than 10hp from a ported intake. IIRC there were back to back dynos posted of this last year. The turbos are what is limiting you now.
To answer your questions...

I'm not getting wheelhop, but I do spin a bit. I usually run R,R,Off. It's mostly dry launching on the street after the tires have warmed up, but I do get some wheelspin. I'm currently running MPSS tires at 28 PSI, 285's up front, 295's out back, but will change back to either the R888's I once had, or maybe 555R's out back. I am using a G-TECH (like a Vbox) to get consistent 0-60 time of under 2.5 sec with no rollout (2.37 in perfect conditions). My 60' traps last year at the track were 1.5's with an occasional 1.49 at the track and 10.4's @ 132 -134. That was on my old fuel setup with crossed injector wiring and a catted midpipe, but now I'm on a catless pipe and have a better fuel delivery setup that took me from 8 degrees of advanced timing to 22 with very noticable SOTP. Before the changes, the GTR could not keep up with the Alpha 7 12C, now it's dead nuts even to 150 from a roll. I've heard people say that the ported intake only adds 10HP, but it was a noticable difference on my car and added nearly 25hp to the wheels on the dyno, but not back-to-back so, debatable. All I can say is I haven't seen an FBO around here that shoots off the line like mine, Darrin can attest to that. Before the fuel system upgrade and midpipe change it did 625HP and 600 torque to the wheels (don't know what dyno). The fuel upgrades included properly wiring injector 2 and 4 which were crossed, upgrade to Densos, and hardwire kit. This netted a very noticable SOTP feel and a few tenths off the G-TECH times. Chris Riggs said my midpipe likely added 40 or more to the wheels, but I would believe at least half that.

I'm not even positive I did break the front diff, it drives like normal going straight, it just makes a different noise turning right after I broke the driveshaft. It made the click noise even with the FWD shaft removed. When I reinstalled the DS it started making the slow right turn chatter. I'm going to lift the front end today and spin the wheels and see if they bind. Thanks.
 

· e85 member
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Sorry to hear you're having issues--I'm going through a similar fiasco myself. Tuned in for more details and resolution.
 
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