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Well, I finished my H&R spring install over the weekend. Honestly it wasn't that bad. Took me a solid 7 hours. About 3 hours in the back including interior removal and around 4 hours up front. The instructions below are pretty basic/vague, so I thought I'd share some additional stuff that I felt was left out. Hopefully it will be of use!

* Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic. I'm just an average guy that likes to get stuff done on his own and learn at the same time. Some shops are charging almost $1,000 to do this install. So man up, and get'r done!

Here are the install guides I used:

1. http://www.vividracing.com/blog/tuning-corner/kw-suspension-sleeve-kit-full-installation-on-nissan-gtr/

2. http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/SuspensionSpringsGTR.pdf

Here are almost all of the tools required/tools that I used:

1. Sockets: 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm (For OEM lug nuts) + swivel socket and 2" extension for rear top hat 12mm nuts, and 1 1/4 or 32mm iirc socket for axle nut if you choose to remove it
2. Wrenches: 14mm, 17mm
3. Flat head screw driver (or other tool for removing push clips) + Philips screw driver
4. Breaker bar
5. Torque wrench
6. Reverse logic lug guides and jack pads
7. Impact gun
8. Custom tool to get the shock cable through the boot/top hat (I used a wire, with a piece of string and tied the string to the cable and fed it through)
9. Blue tape to protect paint
10. Spring compressors
11. Vice grips and pliers for random tasks
12. Rope
13. Magnet for when you drop the 12mm top hat nut past the engine onto the under tray ha



So after reading through speedforsale and vivids, here's what I felt was missing:

1. I do not believe you have to undo the axle bolt. It was just as easy not removing this. Maybe I'm missing something, but the axle will still slide out an inch or so at the front differential, giving you the room you need to squeeze the strut out. I didn't touch the axle bolt on the passenger side and go the strut assembly out just as easily

2. I would advise to take pictures of how far the threads of bolts are sticking out, for instance, on the lower shock bolts, upper control arms, etc. so that you have an idea where the nut/bolts should be when reinstalling. I couldn't find torque specs until after I was done retightening everything (included pics, courtesy of Dut). I also used blue thread locker on most things when finished. See pics





3. You do not need spring compressors on the rear springs when putting the H&R's back in. I used it on one side and realized I didn't need it, so I skipped the other side. You do need them on the fronts

4. When removing the front strut assembly, I found that the best way was the following:

For the drivers side, undo the bottom strut bolt and three top hat bolts, obvs undo the bolt for the knuckle/uca, as well as loosen the two uca bolts so that you can move this up as far as possible out of your way. Then move the knuckle back towards you and toward the FRONT of the car (To the left). When you undo the bottom strut bolt, pull the bottom of the shock toward you, then let it slide down a little, this will allow it to drop down. On the passenger side, you still move everything to the left, and pull the shock out on the right side. At least that's how I did it



* Make sure to be careful not to let the knuckle hang too far out or it could rip the cv boot. I almost let this happen. Hence the small rope they show in the instructions

* Also I forgot to put the top hat gasket back on on the drivers side! Had to loosen everything up again and squeeze it in there. This took an additional 15-20 minutes. And make sure to go through the instructions and make sure to tighten ALL bolts back up

Here's a pic of how the strut comes out, and how it needs to go back in:



* I did one shock at a time and was very careful to double check that I retightened all bolts

* To remove the 17mm top hat bolt, get a thick/strong screw driver (or something similar) and a 17mm wrench. Wedge the screw driver between two of the studs to hold it from rotating as you torque the bolt with the wrench. A 17mm split socket would not work for me, but most likely because my Dewalt Impact gun doesn't provide enough torque. Final product with H&R spring installed:



Couple random pics:

I used little pieces of cardboard to prevent scratches on the springs. Also, make sure you put the spring compressors in the direction that I have them in the pic



Fresh in the box:



* It's also a great time to clean your calipers, fender liners, shocks and struts, and random suspension components, so bring the cleaning supplies
 

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Badass man! Thanks - I'm saving this. How does the car look? Why did you select these over Swift?

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Badass man! Thanks - I'm saving this. How does the car look? Why did you select these over Swift?

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
The car looks good. The rear I can definitely notice the drop. The front looks like it barely dropped but I need to drive it and get them settled in. Right now I have the H&R's with 15mm/20mm spacers on BE wheels and stock tires. Will post pics when I finally get the car out of the garage. I think it looks real nice. But it's been raining here for days. I chose these because I didn't want as much of a drop. And had heard mixed reviews of the Swifts. Will post review once I put some miles on them
 

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The car looks good. The rear I can definitely notice the drop. The front looks like it barely dropped but I need to drive it and get them settled in. Right now I have the H&R's with 15mm/20mm spacers on BE wheels and stock tires. Will post pics when I finally get the car out of the garage. I think it looks real nice. But it's been raining here for days. I chose these because I didn't want as much of a drop. And had heard mixed reviews of the Swifts. Will post review once I put some miles on them
Sounds good man, thanks!

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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Great write-up. I did mine without removing the axles as well. I slid the upper part of the strut toward me. when I put it back together I just had to carefully massage the inner CV boot to coax the axle back together as I believe the inner joint pulls apart when that happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great write-up. I did mine without removing the axles as well. I slid the upper part of the strut toward me. when I put it back together I just had to carefully massage the inner CV boot to coax the axle back together as I believe the inner joint pulls apart when that happens.
Yes sir. It definitely slides out, I just had to move the hub back to the exact position where the axle slid out, for it to slide back in. Was very easy that part. Did it take some driving for yours to settle? My fronts definitely look about 1/2" higher than the rears (I haven't measured yet) but I haven't driven it yet
 

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Yes sir. It definitely slides out, I just had to move the hub back to the exact position where the axle slid out, for it to slide back in. Was very easy that part. Did it take some driving for yours to settle? My fronts definitely look about 1/2" higher than the rears (I haven't measured yet) but I haven't driven it yet
Yes it takes a couple days to completely settle actually. If you can keep it parked on level ground that will help the settling process.
 

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whats up with the interior removal? that makes me nervous
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not bad at all. Just take your time and follow the instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here's a pic just after I finished

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'm thinking about dropping mine just a bit as well . Do you have a feedback on ride difference ?
Man, I probably put 400 miles on the car beforehand. I'd say it's slightly rougher if anything. It's a super mild drop. Better than nothing. But my front lip is entact so far... So that's a win
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Here's a recent shot

 

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The car looks good. The rear I can definitely notice the drop. The front looks like it barely dropped but I need to drive it and get them settled in. Right now I have the H&R's with 15mm/20mm spacers on BE wheels and stock tires. Will post pics when I finally get the car out of the garage. I think it looks real nice. But it's been raining here for days. I chose these because I didn't want as much of a drop. And had heard mixed reviews of the Swifts. Will post review once I put some miles on them
I noticed my GTR owners go with 15mm/20mm spacers. Am I safe to assume the 15mm go on the front and 20mm on the back? Can you use 15/20 and go with wider tires while dropped on H&R or Swift?

Thank you

Mario
 

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Hey Chi_weezy!!...Any more side profile shots of the drop. Just wondering if it settled any more. Hard to tell in last pic. Also great write up definitely will save as well.
 
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