! Caution !! Endless racing compounds require special bedding procedures. Some compounds are intended strictly for track use. Please read all information prior to use: - Although certain race compounds may be effective at low temperatures, some race compounds cannot be recommended for street use due to aggressive rotor wear. - The racing compounds offered here are identical to those supplied to the various worldwide race categories and therefore, any changes to compounds within those categories will also constitute the same changes being made to the publicly offered race compounds. - For high-temperature range brake pads to perform on the circuit, a specific bedding procedure is necessary and involves a specific method of heating up the pad. -
Bedding is absolutely necessary in all cases and forms of racing in order to maintain optimal rotor life, stable wear conditions, and consistent performance characteristics at high temperatures. How to bed Endless race compounds: Using 70 - 80% pedal pressure, gradually bring the rotor temperature to 400 - 500C. Ensure that the rotor temperature cools to below 100C before hard use.
We do NOT recommend braking while accelerating in an attempt to reach the required temperature level. Braking Style Definitions: Standard: Optimal brake control based upon direct pedal pressure before corner entry Trail-Braking: Optimal brake control based upon trail-braking. Dual-Type: Both Standard and Trail-Braking control.
Suitable for both street and track, ME20 is a competition pad with strong yet stable mu levels at high temperatures while maintaining low wear. Developed for highly competitive touring cars focused on driving technique. Popular in BTCC, WTCC, PWRC, international Rally, etc.
Here is a generic brake pad break in procedure.
The following procedure is a generic procedure for pad/rotor break in.
WARNING: The bed-in procedure below requires an area with longer stretches of road and little traffic. Vehicles following close behind will not be expecting your vehicle to slow this rapidly.
1. Bring vehicle up to 40mph.
2. Slow at 40-50% braking effort (similar to stop-and-go driving) until the vehicle slows to 25mph.
3. Repeat Step 2 in succession 5 times.
4. Bring vehicle up to 55-60mph (conditions permitting).
5. Slow at approximately 75% braking effort (should NOT activate ABS) to 35mph.
6. Repeat Step 5 in succession 5 times or until "green fade" (a noticeable reduction in stopping power) starts to occur.
7. If green fade has not started, repeat step 5 a few more times until it does.
8. Once fade has started, immediately stop braking and drive for at least a 1/2 mile without using the brakes (except in case of an emergency stop). You may smell the brake pads off-gassing during the cool down. DO NOT apply brakes while stopped with very hot rotors!
9. Allow brakes to cool with vehicle at rest for at least 2 hours before additional use.
10. The new brakes are now about 75% bedded. Additional bedding will occur over the next 500 miles.
The goal of brake bedding is to lay down a smooth, even transfer layer of pad material onto the brake rotors. Uneven transfer layers are the #1 cause of brake judder, often referred to as "warped rotors". Incomplete transfer layers can lead to poor brake performance and pad squeal. Deviations in the above bed-in procedure can cause rotor hot spots, pad glazing and brake judder, and can ruin the friction surfaces permanently.
1. Always use a torque wrench for tighteNING wheel lugs in a star pattern. Never use impact tools!
2. Avoid abrupt temperature changes. At the track, warm up and cool down laps are critical.
3. Perform a brake fluid flush every 2 years or 30,000 miles or after every track event. AP Racing Ultra 5.1 (street performance) and AP600 (racing) fluids are big improvements over more standard fluids.
4. Have you upgraded those soft, flexible rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines yet?
Inspect your brake system on a regular basis!
BRAKE JUDDER (pulsation at the brake pedal and/or steering wheel while braking) can occur due to a variety reasons. Please take note of the following to reduce the chances of it happeNING to you.
WHEEL LUG TORQUE:
Proper lug torque must be followed to prevent distortion of the rotor and/or vehicle hub. FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S TORQUE SPECIFICATION FOR YOUR VEHICLE WHEN TIGHTENING WHEEL LUGS. It is important to tighten the lugs Incrementally and in a star pattern.
DO NOT insTALL LUG BOLTS OR NUTS WITH AN AIR OR ELECTRIC TOOL. USE A TORQUE WRENCH WITH THE PROPER SETting FOR YOUR VEHICLE. CONSULT A REPAIR MANUAL FOR PROPER TORQUE SETting.
Many air and electric impact tools can tighten to over 150+ Ibs-ft of torque. Most vehicles require only 70-95 lbs-ft. Over tighteNING the lug bolts or nuts can warp and permanently damage the rotor and/or hub, resulting in brake judder. Lug failure can also occur, potentially causing a wheel to come loose!