[Turpid Porpoise]

Just wanted to start off by introducing myself. My name is Mitch and I've been building/racing cars for around 16 years now. I am picking up my new-to-me R32 GTR on 7/31 and I am beyond excited. Currently the only other car in my stable is a C5 Corvette with a forged LS2, single t4 78/80 turbo, roll cage and Haltech Elite 2500. I do all of my own work including fabrication and welding but I am very receptive to constructive criticism on just about any topic so please chime in and set me straight if I ever need it.

The car I've purchased is a 1991 R32 GTR in gray with a forged shortblock, ported head, twin GT2860RS-5, twin plate clutch, DW injectors, regulator and pump, Haltech Platinum and 17" TE37s. Once I make the 16 hour ride back home in the car I will follow up with detailed photos and my thoughts.

Complete Mod List as Purchased:

Engine
Arias Pistons
Carillo Rods w/ SPS Bolts
Crower Billet Crankshaft
Tomei 260 Camshafts
Tomei Valvesprings
Ported Cylinder Head
HKS Oil Pump
GT2860RS -7 Twin Turbos
Nismo Engine Mounts
Nissan Rubber Hose Set
KTS Hardpipe Kit
Divided Turbo Compressor
Blitz Downpipe
Cat Delete Pipe
Apexi Exhaust
Apexi Suction Kit
ATI Crank Damper
Fuel System
DW800 Injectors
DW1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator
DW300 Fuel Pump
DW Fuel Pump Hotwire
Engine Management
Haltech Platinum Plug In
Greddy Profec Spec B 2
Drivetrain
ORC 559 Twin Disc Clutch
Wheels/Tires
Volk TE37 17x9.5

Complete Mod List(Up To Date):(Red is for new parts that are yet to be installed)
Longblock

• Arias Pistons
• Carillo Rods w/ SPS Bolts
• Crower Billet Crankshaft
• HKS Oil Pump
• Ported Cylinder Head
• Tomei 260 Camshafts
• Tomei Valvesprings
• Tomei Timing Belt
• Billet Half-moon Seals
• Nismo Water Pump

• S2 RB30 Block and Crank
• Nitto I Beam Con Rods
• Nitto 86.5mm Pistons
• Nitto Sine Drive Crank Collar
• Nitto Sine Drive Oil Pump

Intake/Exhaust/Engine Accessories

• 6Boost V-Band Manifold
• Boostlab BL6262 BB Turbo, .83 AR Vband Turbine Housing
• Turbosmart 45 Wastegate(14# Spring)
• Chase Bays PS Reservoir
• Chase Bays Windshield Washer Reservoir
• SPAL 14" Fan
• KTS Hardpipe Kit
• ATS Catch Can
• Nismo Driver Side Engine Mount
• Platinum Racing Solid Exhaust Side Engine Mount
• Nitto Clear Timing Cover
• Plazmaman 850HP Intercooler
• Ross Performance Metal Jacket Crank/PRP Cam Trigger Kit(12-1)
• Supertec VR38 Coilpack Kit w/ Wiring Specialties Harness
• Tomei Xpreme Ti Exhaust
• Tial Q Blow Off Valve
• Z1 Motorsports Radiator Hoses

Fuel System

• Chase Bays 20 Micron Fuel Filter
• Russell 40 Micron Fuel Filter
• Russell Check Valve
• DIY Fuel Pump Rewire
• FIC1000 Injectors
• Powerhouse Racing Triple Pump Hanger
• Radium Auto Fuel Rail
• Radium Auto Direct Mount FPR
• Walboro 485 E85 Pump and AEM 320 Pump

Engine Management

• Haltech Elite 2500
• Haltech Boost Control Solenoid
• Haltech Single Wideband Controller
• Haltech Fuel Comp/Temp Sensor
• Haltech Fuel Pressure Sensor
• Haltech IC7
• Haltech Multifunction Can Gauge(x2)
• Wiring Specialties Pro Harness

Drivetrain

• Full-Race ETS ATTESA Controller
• Nismo Clutch Fork
• OS Giken R3C Triple Plate Clutch
• OS Giken 26mm TOB and Sleeve

• BMW M4 DCT Transmission
• HPR Autosports DCT Adapter Kit
• HPR Autosports Billet Oil Pan
• HTG Tuning GCU
• BMW M4 "Stealth" Shifter
• Works Bell Paddle Shifters

Suspension/Brakes

• Feal 441+ Road/Race Spec Coilovers 10KF/9KR
• GKTech ABS Delete
• GKTech HICAS Delete
• R33 GTR Brembo Calipers
• EBC Yellow Brake Pads
• Nismo Rear LCA
• SPL Titanium Tension Rods
• SPL Titanium V5 Bumpsteer Kit
• SPL Titanium Rear Camber Arms
• SPL Titanium Rear Traction Arms
• Ultra Racing 8 Point Chassis Underbrace
• Ultra Racing 3 Point Fender Braces
• Ultra Racing 2 Point Front Lower Tie Bar
• Ultra Racing Front Strut Bar
• Ultra Racing Rear Strut Bar
• Whiteline 22mm Adjustable Front Sway Bar
• Whiteline 23mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar

Interior/Exterior

• AGI Precision 4 Pt Roll Bar
• Autometer Dual Pillar Pod
• Billetworkz Cosmic Space Red Shift Knob
• CFAC Carbon Fiber Armrest Cover
• Driver Motorsport Grill
• Garage Active Leather Seat Skins
• HKB ON-110 Steering Wheel Hub
• KAP Industries Extinguisher Mount
• Mako Motorsports Cluster
• Morimoto 3800K HID Kit
• OMP 300mm Steering Wheel
• Racing Service Takagi Front Diffuser
• Racing Service Takagi Side Steps
• RedlineGoods Shift boot and Ebrake Boot
• Rockford Fosgate 6.5" Rear Speakers
• Rockford Fosgate 6 Front Speakers
• Speedhut Analog Fuel Level Gauge
• Sony XAV-AX1000 Headunit
• Street Faction Door Cards
• ZLEDSLights Stage 2 Taillights and Turn Signals

Wheels/Tires

• Volk TE37 17x9F/17x9.5R
• Toyo R1R

Post # 94: HICAS Vane Removal from Power Steering Pump
https://www.gtrlife.com/forums/topic/312296-new-to-me-1991-skyline-gtr/?p=4082814

 

[illpayne]

Welcome to the skyline community here. Nice pick up. Looking forward to hearing your impressions about compared to your C5.

 

[R32Squirrel]

Welcome! And can't wait to see your LS swap! J/K :lol:

Looks very clean, and sound like it's already making good power.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Thanks guys! I will be addressing the suspension and brakes immediately with a set of Feal 441+ coils and R33 GTR brembos. A buddy of mine had a spare set of brembos laying around so he gave me a great deal on the set of 4.

 

[ijan]

amazing!!! you will get some looks!!

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Thought I'd take the time on this to follow up with my experience. I flew from DCA to KCI last Wednesday, did a quick visual inspection of the car and then hopped in and started my 16 hour drive back to Virginia. The car rode very smooth and I was impressed with how well it behaved over the 975 mile trip. For being a car quickly approaching the 30 year mark I was also pretty impressed with the interior; comparing it to my 1999 Corvette there really isn't all that much separating the two.

The seats were in decent shape except for a few stains but they fit me nice and snug but aren't the best for 900+ mile road trips as the lack of lumbar support really started getting me around hour #8.

AC blew nice and cold until I got within an hour of my home and then it felt as though it was blowing room temp air at me. When I got it home I did notice a fairly large puddle of condensation just below the passenger side of the firewall so I may have the AC serviced just to make sure its operating at peak efficiency.

The 4WD light was coming on intermittently but I checked tire pressures and bled the ATTESA system and it seems to have gone away now. The drivers rear tire was down about 5 psi when I checked so I'm hoping that was the cause.

The car is only street tuned for the mods listed below so I'm assuming the power delivery was a little bit lazy due to the conservative tune. Once it got over 4,000 rpm it started to pull pretty hard and I can tell it's going to be bonkers on the racetrack once properly setup.

Previous owner also had boost controlled by a Greddy Profec controller rather than utilize the OEM wiring and Mac solenoid to allow the Haltech control boost. I have already removed the Greddy and started wiring in the Haltech boost control, flex fuel and Can Wideband sensors.

I have already corrected the fuel pump rewire that was done by some shop, on behalf of the previous owner, where they just clipped the OEM fuel pump wire about 24" back from the plug and tapped both sides of the wire into a relay so the power for the pump was still going through 24" of that wimpy OEM wire. I depinned the connector removed the OEM wire from the pin, crimped and soldered 12 AWG tefzel wire to the OEM pin and reconnected it to the original harness. Fuel pump primes nice and loud now and holds pressure to redline.

I just got through a full wash, polish and wax so as soon as I get a chance I'll pull her outside to take some "before" pics prior to starting the transformation process.

This car will be used as a street driven track car, I would like to retain full interior, radio, speakers, AC, etc while being able to competitively participate in AutoX, TrackCross, HPDE and TT.

 

[mikemonty]

Congrats on the new car, looks nice! I also have 17" gold TE37s on my R32, will look even better once you lower the suspension to reduce the wheel gap.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Congrats on the new car, looks nice! I also have 17" gold TE37s on my R32, will look even better once you lower the suspension to reduce the wheel gap.

Thanks buddy. The Feal 441+ Road/Race Spec coils came in yesterday so I'll snap some pics before I start the install.

I also received my Speedo Solutions gauge cluster faces in MPH and PSI, Haltech boost control solenoid, GKTech ABS delete and continental flex fuel sensor. I'll post pictures of everything as I get started.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Got my Haltech care package and my Feal 441+ Road Race Spec coil overs today and thought I'd share some photos of all the products. I'm a huge fan of the Haltech electronics and I have basically their entire catalog installed between the GTR and my C5 now. Today's package includes a CANbus WB1 wideband controller and sensor, Platinum 6 port CANhub, Haltech GaugeART Multi Channel Can gauge and I have on order 2 pressure sensors(oil/fuel) and 1 temp sensor(oil) so I can start logging those values instead of just watching them. I've also installed a 3 gauge pod that replaces the OEM center cluster that will house the Multi Channel gauge for now and I may even add another multi channel gauge and a dedicated wideband gauge. I located and bought a open box Racepak IQ3 display dash to run in front of the cluster(or in place of if I can get a vehicle speed sensor figured out). This is going to be moving pretty quickly while I get her prepped for track duty. The last photo is the mess of wiring that was supposed to be the fuel pump rewire as I mentioned before. They had just cut the OEM 12V feed wire and wired the relay to both sides of where they cut the wire. I trimmed off all the excess wire, redid all the connections with noninsulated butt connectors and adhesive heat shrink, ran a 12AWG from the relay directly to the OEM pin on the OEM fuel pump plug so now I have 10 AWG from battery to relay and 12AWG from relay to fuel pump giving me great voltage at high RPM.

 

[R32Squirrel]

Good stuff! Always fun to see these cars built to go on tracks.

A properly sized power wire to the fuel pump is always good, just keep an eye on the factory FPCM if you are still running with it.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Good stuff! Always fun to see these cars built to go on tracks.

A properly sized power wire to the fuel pump is always good, just keep an eye on the factory FPCM if you are still running with it.

With the fuel pump grounded to the chassis isn't the FPCM bypassed? I'm still learning the ins and outs of this thing.

Got the front coils installed yesterday in about 30 minutes, would have been shorter but the previous owner used OEM style lugs on the TE37s with no hub rings so it was a fight to get a socket over the lugs to remove the wheels. I've got new hub rings and proper lugs coming in tomorrow so I can finish up the rears and set the ride height. With the OEM suspension I was sitting at about 15" from center of axle to the bottom of the fender, with the new coils installed as shipped I'm sitting at about 15 1/4". I'll probably drop it down about 1" to bring it to 14 1/4".

I got the Haltech multi channel gauge installed but not connected yet as well. I ended up having to trim the radio surround just a bit to clear the gauge bezel. Last but not least, I got a big old box of Motul fluids to drain and refill the engine, front diff, transfer case, transmission, rear diff and ATTESA system.

 

[mikemonty]

Looks like things are coming along nicely, congrats! Was looking at your set up and it is similar to mine. See you have a DW300 fuel pump. My car had a DW340 FP w/ 1250 cc injectors when I bought it. I have Haltec Plat Pro and HKS2530s which is similar to your -5s. Was dyno tuning looking for more power but we started to go lean around 590 whp. I changed the FP to a 450LPH and was able to flow enough fuel for 619 whp at 1.5 bar. Not sure what power you are looking for, just giving a heads up to keep an eye on fuel if you are trying to go high 5s with current set up.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Thanks for the info, Ill only be pushing low to mid 500s for the time being and I do plan to go with a surge tank and a 485 in the near future. Either that or Ill go with a spare tire mount fuel cell with surge tank built in so I can remove the OEM tank entirely

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Not a huge update but it's better than nothing. A buddy of mine has got all of my charge piping and is powdering coating it all wrinkle black. He completed the sandblasting over the weekend and plasma cut a bracket to mount my wideband controller on the outer two windshield wiper motor bolts. I've got all of my AUX wiring in the engine bay and routed where it will eventually end. I removed the center console triple gauge pod, moved the HVAC controls all the way up and ordered a halfway decent Sony double din so I can atleast have Apple Carplay to use as an in dash GPS. I've got a Street Faction Vent pod on the way for the Can gauge. I mounted and powered up my racepak display for the first time but I still need to sync the EFI module with the Haltech ECU and program the parameters the Racepak will display. I pulled all of the OEM fuel lines, DW1000 FPR, Evap and ABS. I've got a pile of OEM parts laying on my garage floor and I will try to weigh each bundle as they were removed from the car(ABS, fuel lines, evap) to see how much weight I am dropping as I go.

Wideband Bracket

This is essentially where I want the wideband controller to sit.

Sandblasted charge piping. Buddy is making a custom jewel with his logo on it for the merge pipe.

Finished piping and bracket

EBCS mounted on the firewall and it will be wired into the AUX wiring to shorten the length of tubing needed in both directions.

Racepak mounted to steering column shroud

Terrible pictures of the GKTech ABS Delete

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Mocked up my apexi intake pipes last night, I'm waiting on new black couplers and clamps to come in to replace the very worn red/blue couplers that were on the car.

Also got my CAN WB1 controller mounted on the new bracket. Fitment ended up being perfect. If anyone wants one of these I can have my buddy fab one up and coat it the color of your choice.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Mocked up my Radium fuel rail and direct mount regulator as well as continued wiring in the new sensors. This was the first time I had attempted service loops on a pull to seat connector so I'm pretty happy with the results. The Radium rail and DMR fit like a glove, they literally could not fit any better without fouling on the ECT sensor.

The bad news, I should have played with the Haltech software more before beginning the wiring because apparently the DPI prewired into the AUX harness isn't supported by the Platinum Plug In ECU so I can't run flex fuel without an IO Expander box. I also realized that despite all 4 inputs being labeled as AVIs in the documentation that the software recognizes two as ATIs and two as AVIs meaning my two AVIs are taken up by my 4 bar MAP and Oil pressure sensor so fuel pressure will also require the IO Expander. I'm starting to think I should have just sold the Platinum and spent the money to upgrade to the Elite 2500 for additional input/output support.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Finally got around to having the valve covers, timing cover and valley cover coated in Prismatic's Lollipop Red with Chrome base. They came out pretty nice but not perfect. My buddy is really starting to get the hang of the coatings but prepping used cast aluminum has it's own procedure. Overall I am very happy and I can't wait to get all the gaskets I need to get this put back together, just waiting on my order from Raw Brokerage.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

And I thought the rest of the forums I regularly browse were dead..... Maybe IG is the place to post this crap these days...

The dash is pretty much sorted. I finished off most of the wiring after I took this photo. Still need to make some sort of trim for the double din because there is like a 1" gap at the bottom edge.

 

[illpayne]

Interested in seeing how your haltech display works out.

 

[R32Squirrel]

You can post on SAU, the Australian Skyline forum. Probably the most active and most in depth Skyline forum in the world, tons of good info.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/

There are still relatively few US Skyline owners, and many are very reserved with their online activities, so you cannot expect the same participation as compared to Corvette forums. Heck there are probably more Bugatti owners than Skyline.