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Good stuff! Always fun to see these cars built to go on tracks.

A properly sized power wire to the fuel pump is always good, just keep an eye on the factory FPCM if you are still running with it.
 

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You can post on SAU, the Australian Skyline forum. Probably the most active and most in depth Skyline forum in the world, tons of good info.

https://www.sau.com.au/forums/

There are still relatively few US Skyline owners, and many are very reserved with their online activities, so you cannot expect the same participation as compared to Corvette forums. Heck there are probably more Bugatti owners than Skyline.
 

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I have looked into the Do-Luck sensor but I'm leaning towards the Full-Race attesa controller instead. Do you have any experience with either of them?
I have the basic Do-Luck sensor without controller, but I don't track my car and on street driving I don't think I have noticed much difference. Maybe a smoother straight line pull, but I can't offer any feedback on hard braking or cornering.
 

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Unless your sensor was outputting lateral g where none existed it shouldn't affect straight line driving, you would have to push hard enough in turns to slip the tires to feel any difference. Stuff like dumping the clutch in first the AWD will automatically go full lock to reduce traction loss.
With factory g sensor I noticed the torque gauge would jump up and quickly drop back to zero when I accelerate hard. With the new digital g sensor the torque gauge would rise instead of jump, but it also would not go as high as before. That's why I said maybe it pulls smoother because that's what I saw off the gauge as my body couldn't feel much of a difference.
 

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Weird, you may have had some weak springs in the factory sensor causing it to register lateral g where none existed. When the stock ATTESA system detects strong lateral G it will tend to suppress the AWD engagement.
Weak springs...? Dude, it's a 30 years old mechanical sensor so what do you think? I got the digital sensor as a maintenance upkeep like replacing a rubber hose, not as a performance upgrade. It's just another example of "Skyline tax."

And yes ATTESA is mapped to run only RWD during mid corner, to allow for more rotation as preferred by pro drivers. That is where the Full Race controller differs because it offers different mapping. However according to Do-Luck the factory map still works well if you can manipulate the input signal, and that's what their controller offers. But I'm in no position to comment because neither do I track my car or have the controller.
 

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I believe the Garrett wastegates that come with their turbos are adjustable even though they are not advertised as so. I found out because I was first told by the Garrett vendor that my wastegates had a minimum setting of 1.1 bar. Then when my tuner was trying to tune my car he had issues because the actuator setting was so close to the boost controller setting. He decided to try adjusting the actuators down and encountered no issue, so now mine are set to about 10psi and boost controller does the rest.
 

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I don't recall Garrett tagging any part number or serial number directly on their turbos. It would just say Garrett and the A/R ratio on their compressor housing, as the turbine housing is identical through the -5 -7 -9 range. The actuator does have a sticker on it.

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I went through my pictures and couldn't find a single good picture identifying the Poncams after they are out of box. Do you suspect the cams are stock or from another brand? Because the vacuum at idle would read differently between stock cams versus aftermarket, which should at least help you rule out if the cams are still stock or not. Stock cams should read just a tiny bit above the -7 mark on stock gauge, and with my Type A Poncam it now reads higher and closer to the next tick mark than the -7 mark.
 

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OS Giken 3 gear set is the best value for money. PPG costs 3x the money and obviously they are not 3x the strength. Are you changing the gears yourself? The only place I know that offers this service is Sheptrans, and they want $1500 for it.

R32 stock front diff is open, and on Aussie forum they always tell you to change it to a LSD. The rear diff should be pretty strong and comes with finned cover. Adding trans and diff coolers should help you on track tho.
 

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Maybe I should send my gearbox to you lol. I have been looking at the OS Giken 3 gear set too because it looks to have friendlier ratios.

Supposedly third gear is the most commonly known gear to break. Synchros for lower gears tend to get abused, so always good to replace them. Depending on how much power you put down, at 600whp to 700whp that's pretty much the limit for OS Giken gears because they are still helical gears.
 

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Yeah SPL parts are really high quality, and they are all track proven. I remember my tuner told me he had a SPL arm tore a hole on the body during track day but the SPL arm still in perfect shape lol.
 

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I wish I had the coin to drop on the full kit but even if I did the wife would never go for it. It takes months of convincing and sometimes a little misdirection for me to get her to let me spend what I already do.
Hahaha oh I know. Thats why the car is still in Japan. Cant see the cost if its over there. Hahaha
Those are common themes around these cars lol

Wife: What are these boxes just got delivered, look like from Japan

Me: Just some car parts, don't worry I got them real cheap

Wife: How much?

Me: You look pretty today. Want to try that new eatery just opened?
 

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I just look up Elmer Racing, those are some nice collectors. Interesting you are going this route though, is it because you can't find any manifold on the market that you like?
 

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If I recall on SAC forum some guy got a new R35 ignition harness kit with positive and negative wires swapped. Luckily not much damage was done and he got a new harness correctly made. I forgot where he got the harness from though.
 
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