[Turpid Porpoise]

So who can tell me what fittings, plugs, etc I will need to order to feed/drain the oil and coolant for my single turbo conversion?

 

[R32Squirrel]

I have no knowledge of that lol. But you probably can find some good info on SAC.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Finally got the new Elite 2000 PNP hooked up and started the engine for the first time on the new ECU. Everything seems to working except the fuel pressure and fuel composition sensors that I wired in so I'm a bit stumped at the moment. Was hoping to get this thing on the road this week and start fine tuning some of the existing tables for street driving.

Edit: Fuel pressure sensor is now working, gonna replace the fuel comp sensor and hope that does the trick.

Edit 2: New fuel comp sensor fixed the issue. Just need an alignment and I can start street tuning

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Garage Active leather seat covers are finally installed. I spent some time over the weekend cleaning up the original fabric and then installing theses new covers and they look great. Just waiting for a shipment from Redline Goods that has a matching shift boot, ebrake boot and armrest cover. I also went to my buddies house and we figured out where the turbo is going to reside and made a bracket to hold it in place while he fabs the rest of the manifold.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Almost forgot to post the revised Racepak/Can Gauge mount from Original Auto, the Elite 2000 ECU and Garage Active Mirrors.

 

[illpayne]

Looking good. Its coming along nicely. Are there any race tracks near you or are you going to try 1/4 mile tracks, or just street?

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Thank you

Ive got Summit Point and Dominion Raceway nearby. Ill be attending as many events there as possible and some events at VIR.

 

[R32Squirrel]

That may be too nice of an interior for a track car, especially you changed the rear seats too lol!

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

That may be too nice of an interior for a track car, especially you changed the rear seats too lol!

I'm definitely heading more towards a restomod type of build than I expected. I love this car too much to gut it and only track it so I'm going to make it a comfortable, street driven, track monster.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Front turbo is out!! Honestly, it wasn't as bad as people make it out to be. The second turbo is all loose and ready to pull tonight. My buddy is bringing me his first attempt at the manifold to mock up and then we will revise it accordingly.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Both turbos are out and it turns out they are -7 turbos and have OEM dumps, not the aftermarket dumps as the seller stated. Got the front brakes swapped out for R33 brembos, still waiting on my Project Mu pads to get here. Initial fitnof the new manifold was a no go so we are reworking it today.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Started installing the Ross trigger kit. Still waiting on the correct puller to arrive so I can remove the ATI balancer on the car to replace it with the Ross piece. Im slowly plugging away.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Got the turbo mounted and coated. I have the intake fabricated, charge piping fabricated and downpipe is halfway done. Waiting on some materials to mount the wastegate, fab the dump tube and finish off the downpipe. Tial BOV flange was welded onto the old charge pipe as well.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

I also decided to go ahead and remove the vanes from the rear of the PS pump so I could delete the remaining HICAS lines in the engine bay. While researching this option I found a couple links but most of the pictures had expired and no longer worked so I made a very basic DIY for anyone who may be interested in attempting this in the future.

Step 1: Loosen the 12mm bolt locking the tensioner in place and then loosen the long 12mm bolt in picture # 2 to put some slack on the belt for removal.

Step 2: Remove the 2(x) 24mm banjo bolts holding the PS lines to the outlets on the PS pump. Then remove the PS pump inlet by removing the worm clamp holding the hose in place. Have a drain pan, rags and plastic bags ready as this step will get messy and PS fluid is very corrosive.

Step 3:Remove the belt and remove the 15mm bolt holding the top of the PS pump in place. No picture on this step but you will have to put your socket through the opening in the PS pulley to remove this bolt.

Step 4: Remove the pump, place it on a work bench with the pulley facing down and look at the back of the pump housing. Remove the 4(x) 12mm bolts holding the rear cover onto the PS pump. Be careful during this step as there are spring loaded pins in there that can shoot out if you remove the back cover without care.

Step 5: Now that you are looking into the back of the PS pump you can see the small square "vanes" that we are after. Carefully remove these with a pick, needle nose pliers or whatever you can fit in the slot the vanes sit in.

Step 7: Replace the spring loaded pins into the correct locations, wipe down the sealing surfaces and put everything back together in reverse order. Now you can delete the gaggle of PS hard lines that run along the subframe, drivers frame rail and the PS cooler loop in front of the radiator. You will need an M16 bolt and crush washer to seal the rear most PS outlet port and you're complete, congrats.

 

[Beast714]

Sweeet

 

[R32Squirrel]

Looks good, but just being very honest here, I think the turbo's location and orientation is a bit strange. It sits very close to the valve cover and the exit is pointing straight down. Is there a reason why it's set up that way?

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Looks good, but just being very honest here, I think the turbo's location and orientation is a bit strange. It sits very close to the valve cover and the exit is pointing straight down. Is there a reason why it's set up that way?

I think thats just the angle of the photo playing tricks coupled with the fact that the turbo is just sitting on the flange unsupported in that photo. The turbo's outlet is facing straight down in order to retain the factory PS reservoir. It is still high enough that all I used was a 90* coupler and a 90* aluminum bend(cut and bead rolled) to attach the turbo to the old charge piping in the bumper. We tried to mimic the location on some of the more popular manifolds that were supposedly "direct bolt on" for the R32 chassis in order to retain the PS reservoir. Despite our best efforts I still ended up relocating the reservoir to better route the PS hoses away from the turbo manifold.

This manifold is in no way perfect, most of the fab was done without the car and it's my buddies first turbo manifold attempt so there will definitely be revisions after this prototype is complete and tested.

 

[R32Squirrel]

That is pretty much the case with all single conversions, always little quirks need to be worked out and all different with each setup. No "right way" to set it up, not even better or worse way, just different, and also comes down to how to deal with the power steering or A/C unit. It does free up tons of room for servicing though.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

That is pretty much the case with all single conversions, always little quirks need to be worked out and all different with each setup. No "right way" to set it up, not even better or worse way, just different, and also comes down to how to deal with the power steering or A/C unit. It does free up tons of room for servicing though.

Absolutely, I can have the turbo in/out in about 10 minutes.

 

[Turpid Porpoise]

Just a few photos of the progress I'm making. I kind of hit a mental wall with the amount of work I've got to do on both the Corvette and the GTR so progress is slowing.

I added a Nitto clear timing cover so that I can watch the condition of my timing belt without pulling the timing cover. I finished up the turbo oil/water feed and drains, wrapped them all up with Raceflux sheathing and self sealing tape. I'm currently working on straightening my side sills and installing Laille side sill reinforcement plates, while I'm under there I am wire wheeling the entire underbody and spraying it with Eastwood Rust Encapsulating Rubberized Undercoat. Finally, I installed a ChaseBays triple baffled power steering reservoir(not pictured) and removed the remaining PS hardlines to clean up the bay a little bit and make room for the turbo/intake.

Items I am currently waiting on to finish up:
Seibon DVii Hood

OS Giken R3C Triple Plate Clutch

Z1 Motorsports Radiator Hoses

ZLEDS Taillights

Rear Main Seal(Mine appears to be dripping pretty good)