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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
In this write up I'll cover on how to replace the flywheel bellhousing on your own. I ordered mine from nengun.com for a bit more a 1k USD. Part no: 32040-80B0A.

This guide should be beginner friendly so I'll cover every single bolt and clip. Before you start, there are two things you need to know:

1) Some funny people on youtube telling you this is a two hours job. NO. IT'S NOT. NEVER AND EVER. Instead, plan in a full weekend, start early in the morning.

2) The stud bolts between turbo outlet and catalytic converters tend to break. And if they do, there is no way to drill them out, there is simply no room for that. In this case the only way is to PULL THE ENGINE. This is important to know before you start.

3) As for the damper disc bolts and prop shaft bolts a torque wrench is required. USE IT.

So let's begin. Best for this job is two pole or platform lift. If both is not available, you can jack up your car using stands. Make sure you use four stands, we'll need the jack later on.

Open up the bonnet.
For remote start equipped vehicles, remove battery cover, then remove the battery negative terminal (10mm). As a general rule you always undo the negative one not to accidently touch GND when doing with the positive terminal, in a worst case scenario the battery can explode.

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No undo both connectors of the catalytic converters. They are clipped and bit hard to reach. Slide them back of the black clip (direction reverse of the car) and undo them. Do this on both sides.

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Now jack up or lift the car.

Peel off the rubber caps of with you fingernails Then remove all bolts (10mm) and clips as shown in the pic. Remove the cover. Tipp: These clips tend to break, order a full set of 50 pieces cheap from ebay.

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Remove the CFK cover, 8mm

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Put all the clips and bolts into a bag. As a general rule, always put the nuts and bolts back on where they belong to. You don't want to end a in a mess of nuts and bolts.

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Remove the support bar, 12mm. Next remove the bolts of the submuffler (14, 17mm). No worries the sub muffler won't come down.

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Remove the heat shield in the rear section. The remove the two bolts of the rear end of the muffler. Next remove the sub muffler.

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Next put mating marks on both sides of the front and main prop shafts. Steal some nail enamel of your girlfriend or wife. maybe not her favourite one. Start in the front section. Remove all 4 bolts (8mm hex) then cover and support the prop shaft with a towel.

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
(maybe a mod can merge this together)

Remove support bracket, start with the red ones, then the green ones (14mm)
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6 mm hex, remove the front prop shaft. Loosen and remove the remaining 4 bolts on the transmission side, the lower the front side of the prop shaft and pull it out of transmission side.

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Main prop shaft removal.

Again, start with the front ones (Torx 50), remove the 4 bolts and nuts and support it with a towel.

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Then remove the bolts on transmission side. Again, lower the shaft on the front side first then pull it out of transmission side.

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Remove crankshaft position sensor:

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Remove the bracket of the cats (14mm)
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Remove all the wiring, zip ties and the water hose clamp. Mark the connectors with paint!
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next remove the four bolts and shown in the picture:

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Next loosen remove front stabilisator clamps.

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Next thing is important. Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE the two bolts. 19mm. Turn them 3 - 4 full revolutions BUT DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Here a impact gun comes handy.

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Loosen and remove the following (TWO) long bolts on both sides of the back of the subframe.
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Now the next step is very important. The subframe is heavy and will squeeze your legs or hands like nothing. Be absolutely sure to do this save. Use a transmission jack and support the back of the subframe. If not available, use a jack and TWO MASSIVE pieces of wood. Support both sides with wood. Next remove both bolts pictured, then CAREFULLY lower the subframe 40 - 80mm.

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Well, the fun part is over now. Definitely. Removing the catalystic converters is NOT fun. there are 5 stud bolts on each turbo outlet, the top ones are barely visible. Use a tool like this for this job. Whatever you do, DO NOT MAKE THEM ROUND. there is no room to drill them out!!!!! (14mm). First thing you do give them all penetrating oil like WD40 or similar and let them soak.

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Once they are out, hopefully! remove both cats and write L R on them not to mix them up. Next you want to check the play of turbo. You should feel no play at all.

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remove all the bolts of the rear engine mount (no need to support the engine. 5 bolts, 14mm. Then use your jack and lift up the engine and remove the engine mount.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
sometimes to have a helping would be nice. but it is how it is. remove the white plastic cap just behind where the rear engine mount was. There are 6 bolts (10mm) on your damper disc. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (as viewed from the front and remove all bolts), turn the crankshaft 60 degrees 6 times.

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Next remove the remaining bolts (14mm, 17mm) of the bellhousing. put them in a cardboard in the right order not to mix them up. They all have different lengths. Start with the starter motor (green), put the starter a bit back, then remove the purple ones.
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Give the housing a few whacks with your plasic hammer. Pull it towards you the Turn it 90° counter clock wise, so the concave part is facing down. Then tilt it 45° towards you, and 45° left and it will come out.

Day one is over i think. Grab a beer or two you deserved it.

Day 2. Today you feel every muscle nah?

As for the installation, there are a few things which you need to know. First, damper disc and shaft comes balanced. Before you start installing your new housing make sure to check the purple mating marks. Not doing so can cause additional noises/rattle.

I think this is the main reason that you can not order the damper disc individually. Otherwise it wouldn't make sense to put mating marks on the damper disc/shaft combination.

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next check the dowel pins and mark the two on the flywheel with paint. Also mark the pin holes of the damper disc with paint. Turn the crankshaft and align both pins on the flywheel to 12' and 6' clock positions.

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Put back on your new (or overhauled) flywheel housing and check that both pins are correctly in the damper disc aligned. Manually rotate the flywheel companion flange right and left and check it does not move.

Tighten all bolts of the bellhousing according pic below.

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Next install the 6 bolts of the damper disc. Give them 15Nm each, then in the second round 28Nm. This step is important! Remember always turn the crank clockwise. This job is a bit annoying doing it without a buddy.
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Install the catalytic converters, give the bolts 55Nm each. do all the wiring, connectors, camshaft pos sensor and lift up the subframe. Give all 6 subframe bolts 130Nm. Do them a favor and give them a bit of copper paste especially the ones in the back.

Put the rest together in reversal order. Front prop shaft. cross- tighten all 4 bolts and use a torque wrench. Check the mating paint marks.

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Main shaft, again make sure to check your paint marks.

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Before you install the back the sub covers and support bar start the engine and check for rattle. Before you do don't forget to fiddle up the connectors back into the engine bay. If you still hear a rattle then remove the 4 bolts of the front companion flange of the main shaft and turn it first 90 degrees, test it, then 180 then 270 until the rattle is gone. Remember rattle in the drive train is pure stress for your main bearings,..

Now, enjoy a rattle free drive drain. have fun. I did it exactly the way I described here and most is from the Fsm.

R35 bellhousing change - finally rattle free - YouTube

Note on the first start you may notice some smoke. No worries you touched everything with your oily hands and penetration oil. it will only smoke a few minutes
 

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Hi Philip was there only the usual bearing failure or was there anything else on the old unit that you noticed?
Great write-up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thx.

No it was the usual bearing failure. I just noticed the new unit will go in much easier as the old one thx to its new design.
 
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Great and valuable post. These cars are actually quite easy to work on.

When I do this job, I just remove the front half of the FWD driveshaft. I leave the aluminum bracket and rear half of the shaft on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thx. The front prop shaft is in one piece balanced please do not remove the front half!
 

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It's just a four bolt flange. The balance doesn't change by unbolting it and then bolting it back together I wouldn't think. Anyway, I've even mixed diff front and rear shafts after breakage and never had any vibrations or ill effects. Each section of shaft is balanced.
 
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