Nissan GT-R Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
I tested out some new pads that didn't work out so well because they couldn't handle the heat. The rotors ended up getting quite a bit of pad deposit on them causing a lot of vibration and judder. I need to remove the deposits. The rotor and pad manufacturers suggested heating up the rotors with torch and sscrubbing with coarse steel wool and then cleaning. Other sites have suggested temporarily using pad that is very abrasive when cold to remove them, but obviously I would have to buy them.

Any thoughts on the best method? I am actually getting DTC-70s to put on after I fix this. I don't relly want to use them to remove the material but I suspect doing the first method listed should work out and then the DTC-70s may fully complete the process when bedding in...

Thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
i'l like some ideas on this too. Many months back i did a few 1000m airstrip runs (so brakes were dead cold when i slammed on the anchors at 170mph) and the rotors have odd spots all over since
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Every single one of you is going to hate this answer.....

Ignore them. They WILL work themselves out. If you run the new compound long enough, and use it for regular braking, it will remove the old deposits one way or another. It's just the way things work.

There are lots of ways to potentiate this change, but ignoring them is one of the best. They work out after a while.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Will the deposits and judder go away even if you're not changing pads? I have ME20 pads and Performance Friction rotors. I got bad build up and judder after last 2 track events. I cleaned the rotors with a Scotch-Brite sponge and then rebedded which helped but the judder is still there. Other than the uncomfortable feeling under hard braking, does having judder reduce or hurt your braking performance? Also, when I do replace the rotors is there anything that works well with abrasive pads like the ME20s, which I really like.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Will the deposits and judder go away even if you're not changing pads? I have ME20 pads and Performance Friction rotors. I got bad build up and judder after last 2 track events. I cleaned the rotors with a Scotch-Brite sponge and then rebedded which helped but the judder is still there. Other than the uncomfortable feeling under hard braking, does having judder reduce or hurt your braking performance? Also, when I do replace the rotors is there anything that works well with abrasive pads like the ME20s, which I really like.
Eventually, everything will even out.

The judder hurts performance, but only MINIMALLY. Don't do an ACTUAL race on a juddering brake pad. You can o track events (where you're never really 10/10ths), and give ONE extra brake marker until the judder goes away.

What works well with the ME20's (I am told, I have not tried myself):


The endless rotor. Well suited for that pad, but VERY expensive.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Every single one of you is going to hate this answer.....

Ignore them. They WILL work themselves out. If you run the new compound long enough, and use it for regular braking, it will remove the old deposits one way or another. It's just the way things work.

There are lots of ways to potentiate this change, but ignoring them is one of the best. They work out after a while.

Shawn
The noise and vibration is pretty bad on mine. Plus, I won't have any time to drive them on the street before my next track day. Ok I might have one day... For now we're just going to try to scour them off with heat and steel wool..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
258 Posts
I ran ME20's pretty much all last season on AP rotors with no issues. I like the carbotech XP12's the best on track but they are really noisy on the street. I am gong to suck it up this year and just run the carbotechs. On track I have found nothing that beats this pad, awesome track pad.

If you have not tried the AP rotors then give them a try. My AP's survive the abuse very well in my opinion. I've never experienced any judder or other symptom with them.

~Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I ran ME20's pretty much all last season on AP rotors with no issues. I like the carbotech XP12's the best on track but they are really noisy on the street. I am gong to suck it up this year and just run the carbotechs. On track I have found nothing that beats this pad, awesome track pad.

If you have not tried the AP rotors then give them a try. My AP's survive the abuse very well in my opinion. I've never experienced any judder or other symptom with them.
I've used APs and never got pad deposits on them but this time there was some miscommunication and the guy recommended some pads that clearly were not suited for the GT-R running in advanced HPDEs...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
I've used APs and never got pad deposits on them but this time there was some miscommunication and the guy recommended some pads that clearly were not suited for the GT-R running in advanced HPDEs...
Every car is different, and one pad that is awesome for one car even at high levels may not be okay for another. The gt-r's very high weight and lack of brake cooling change everything.

Shawn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Posted this in another thread, but it also applies here:

Read the text and watch the videos:

Bed-in: http://www.essexpart...ors/post/Bed-in

Swapping between street and race pads: http://www.essexpart...r/swapping_pads
Thanks, this didn't apply to me. I did the bed in procedure perfectly with brand new pads and rotors. The deposits formed two days later on the second day of a two day track event. I agree with what is said there. I've read it before! Others should read and watch as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
What did you run as a pad before?

What gave you some issues?
On the AP rotors I've run the OEM pad, Ferodo DS2500, Carbotech XP12, and Carbon Lorraine CL6E, with the latter pretty much wearing out the J-Hooks very quickly due to them being used on the street too much.
 

·
GTR Nerd
Joined
·
5,335 Posts
and Carbon Lorraine CL6E, with the latter pretty much wearing out the J-Hooks very quickly due to them being used on the street too much.
Those CL are endurance race pads.They are not a good street pad. The only times I have ever seen any fast wear with an AP rotor was on those brake pads on the street. Somethings got to give in the rotor/pad relationship, and in that one at low temps, its the rotor. They just turn into grinders. Resurfacing the rotor every time you hit the pedal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,184 Posts
Those CL are endurance race pads.They are not a good street pad. The only times I have ever seen any fast wear with an AP rotor was on those brake pads on the street. Somethings got to give in the rotor/pad relationship, and in that one at low temps, its the rotor. They just turn into grinders. Resurfacing the rotor every time you hit the pedal.
Yes I was aware of that. Unfortunately some of us don't really have the resources to swap pads back and forth often... I live in a condo in the city and went to the track so much it was a really big hassle to swap them. If I had a garage it would be no big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,598 Posts
Those CL are endurance race pads.They are not a good street pad. The only times I have ever seen any fast wear with an AP rotor was on those brake pads on the street. Somethings got to give in the rotor/pad relationship, and in that one at low temps, its the rotor. They just turn into grinders. Resurfacing the rotor every time you hit the pedal.
Unless you have CCM's.


Shawn
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top