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2009 R35 (GOD7ILLA)
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In short, this upgrade is awesome and everything it's advertised to be. Buy it. PS. Andrejus is not paying me to say this. :)

I was in touch with Andrejus (legertas) probably within hours of his posting about the availability of his upgrade kit. Like many here I was initially very skeptical - esp considering the relatively low cost of the upgrade, so I did not immediately jump on it, but I was excited... and I asked him a lot of questions. Then, after 7racer's posts re prelim install proving it in, I ordered mine and started the installation. Many thanks to 7racer for taking the initial plunge and posting his prelim results!

Why Do This?
http://www.gtrlife.c...stly-improved/


The more recent MFD/audio updates provide much more satisfaction that our earlier '09-'10 somewhat dated systems.
- Bluetooth audio without the need of any after-market adapter
- Much much improved iPod/iPhone audio control/search/etc.
- Direct rear camera connection (customized a little by Andrejus to make it even simpler) with grid lines
- Higher res screen (with slightly larger display area)
- USB mp3/audio input (doubles as the iPod input and I believe it charges devices also)
- DVD audio/video playback
- Newer (2014) Nav maps + ability to upgrade maps yourself using DVD(s)

Note that you will lose:
- the internal music box functionality. Personally , after ripping 3 CDs to it, I stopped using it so I do not consider it a great loss.
- the Compact Flash slot - never used this either - it was too limited.
- the dedicated iPod/iPhone 30-pin connection (if you had this optional cable/connector added to your car)

Will It Blend?
- With Mr. Ess's speaker upgrade kit? Yes, I have his kit and no problems at all.
- With an after-market rear Sub kit? Yes.
- With an after-market "generic" composite video output rear camera? Yes.

Shipping/Packaging
I won't post unboxing pics, that's been done elsewhere by 7racer.
I will say that the shipment arrived within a few days from Lithuania, and the packing and organization is exemplary.
If you order, have no worries about the delivery/shipping.

Custom Bits
The in-line harnesses included in the kit look professional and have wrapping tape that matched the OEM tape on my '09 head-unit harness. Nice. My only suggestion for improvement on the in-line harnesses would be to provide a little more slack between the connectors at either end... I did find the connector insertion on the back of the head unit a bit snug from side to side.

The harnesses themselves were all labelled with what goes where - foolproof really.

Andrejus has added an RCA composite video input to the proprietary Nissan rear camera in harness. This allows those of us with after-market rear cams to plug our existing cam directly into the new system (more on this below).


Support

Andrejus (legertas) has been very pro-active re supporting his kit and those of us going through the install. He responds to e-mails very quickly, and you'll see many supportive posts by him in the relevant forums. A++ I asked him a lot of detailed questions about the operation and interfacing on this upgrade and he was happy to answer all. He also "baby-sat" my shipment all the way to my door with daily e-mail updates. :)

Verification & Operation
So far everything I've tried works as expected, and I think I've tried almost everything. I know that 7racer has also verified much of his functionality.

- iPod interface - ok - and so, so nice compared to the old OEM version

- DVD audio/video playback - ok. Note that you must have the parking brake engaged to see video from DVD. See below for some notes on in-motion bypass.


- Radio, including RDS - ok

- Audio controls - ok - as many as I could think to play with

- Steering wheel control - ok

- Bluetooth - did not verify, but 7racer already verified that

- Sat - sorry, I don't have Sat, could not verify

- Aux-in interface - ok - I have the optional aux-in cable on my '09. The same aux-in works perfectly with the '14 unit. Below is a pic of my iPod 5 playing video from the headphone jack into the car's aux-in jacks onto the screen (PS. This was an animated film "Wallace and Gromit", so that's why it looks a little "artificial"). Note that you must have the parking brake engaged to see video from Aux-In. See below for some notes on in-motion bypass.


- Rear camera - ok - my after-market Kenwood rear cam plugged DIRECTLY into the cam input RCA that Andrejus added on


- Front Camera - ok - my aftermarket front cam plugged into the rear cam Composite input - I will be adding some switches to flip this on/off
- although they likely won't be spot-on accurate, it's worth noting that the moving/steering grid line moves in the correct direction for front camera view also


- Car functions - ok - checked as many as I could - edited some page layouts, all good


- GPS/maps - ok


Installation

Andrejus's instruction manual is clear and straightforward and those of use that have already had the centre ripped apart for various other add-ons, etc. will have no trouble at all with this.

I've added a few notes of my own below to cover a few other points that are not part of the standard install procedure.

Installation - Screen and Screen Bezel
To re/re the screen you will need a Torx T20 bit. The 4 screws that hold the screen to the mounting brackets are Torx.

The stock '09-'11 bezel fits fine. There is a little less "buffer" edge area between the active screen area and the bezel edge, but I don't mind. Here is my DiNoc covered '09 stock bezel on the new '14 screen.


7racer noted during his install that you need to do some very minor surgery on the back of the stock bezel to get the screen to fit. I've detailed this below:


Even after this the bezel will not fit perfectly flush on the screen - there will be approx a 1.5-2mm gap between the bezel and screen.


I solved this to my personal satisfaction using some black insulation stripping (1/4 thick x 3/8 wide) and hacking it thin enough so that when the screen is pressing into it after installation is all looks flat, gapless, and "clean".


There's been some chatter elsewhere about fitting the screen bezel from the '12 onwards cars onto our CBA car. Unfortunately the two bezels have slightly different shapes:

2009-2011 (CBA) Bezel (part 68261-JF10A)


2012+ (DBA) Bezel (part 68261-KB51A )


The main difference is the left hand corner (red circle) shape. The 2012 bezel will likely fit on the CBA cars, but there will be a small gap in that corner that will need to be filled somehow. For this reason I decided to stick with my stock bezel.

There is a picture floating around of what looks like a newer DBA bezel but with the rounded corner:


Speculation was that it was from a '15 model, but I tried to source this from Eric @ Boulder and he has no info on this unique part. He checked 3 different 2015 cars on his lot (thanks Eric!) and they all have the sharp cornered 2012+ bezel - so no luck there. I'm not sure what car this pic is from... 2015 Nismo maybe?

Installation - What to do with the Compact Flash slot?
Couple of options here...
- You can buy a new '11+ head unit face-plate for probably around a $100 or so (part 68259-R35005 ).
- Or re-use the stock one you have with some creative craft-work.

In my case I already had DiNoc on my face plate so all I did was fill in the CF slot area and re-apply a new layer of DiNoc to make the slot disappear. Turned out well and it didn't cost me anything (except for a sq ft of DiNoc).


Installation - Camera(s)

Many of us early model owners installed (or had someone install) an aftermarket rear-backup camera kit. If you don't have this you can skip this and the next section, but before you do... If you are considering adding camera(s) and/or in-motion control to this upgrade, and you want to do it painlessly and seamlessly, then your best bet is no doubt CarKitCompany's option: http://www.carkitcom...r-bypass-remote. Brian @ CarKitCompany makes great stuff - from personal experience. And no, Brian is not compensating me in any way for plugging his stuff! :) Otherwise, if all you want is a basic backup camera then get Andrejus/legertas's backup cam option that comes ready to plug into the factory '11+ Nissan head-unit/harness - no muss no fuss for just a backup cam.

Installation - Removal/Re-use of your after-market rear camera kit (if installed)

Personally I don't like leaving no-longer-used hardware installed in my car, so I pulled this kit out (except for the power lead and the cameras). This kit was (and still is) available from several enterprising vendors and typically looks similar to this:


If you installed your camera kit yourself (as I did) then you know how it works - if you did not, well this is a brief description of how it works.
  • The VGA-looking cable is used to splice into the RGB video input on the older analog video monitors (like the '09-'10 original screen). In our case the RGB video wires in the harness at the back of the monitor were cut through completely, then the appropriate 3 wires of the blue-box's VGA cable was attached to the RGB video output on the harness side (from the head unit) and a different 3 wires to the RGB video input wires in the connector going into the monitor.
  • The blue wire on the blue box was connected (via tap-in) to the reverse signal indication wire on the main connection leading into the rear of the head unit
  • The rear camera was powered in a manner of your choice, and its RCA output was connected to video 2 input on the blue box.
  • Optionally a front camera could be connected to the video 1 input of the blue box.
  • Under normal conditions the blue box just lets the RGB signal from the head unit go straight through to the RGB input of the monitor. However, if either the toggle switch is flipped (video 1) or a signal on the blue-box's blue wire is activated (video 2), then the blue box routes the appropriate video 1 or video 2 signal to the monitor instead of the head unit's video.
You can see these hookups and splicing in the SpeedForSale install guide: http://www.speedfors...ameraR35GTR.pdf

If you care, and perhaps want to re-use the kit in some way, the manual for the blue-box bit is here http://navtv.com/use...nstructions.pdf ( http://navtv.com/page/17/manuals.html RGB7).

To remove this you will:
- Cut off the 6 spliced connections at the connector behind the screen that were spliced in from the black VGA cable that leads to the blue-box

- You do not need to reconnect or repair the 3 RGB wires in the OEM harness behind the screen. They are not used in the newer system after you upgrade. You should probably tape over the ends of the exposed cut points though.
- Cut the blue wire coming from the blue box that leads to your reverse signal on the main harness behind your head unit (or remove the tap connector if one was used). Do not cut the reverse signal wire itself! Again, put a little tape over the exposed cut point if there was no tap connector.
- Unplug the rear camera RCA connector
- Unplug the front camera RCA connector if applicable
- Unplug the power connector from the blue box
- If you have a toggle switch for flipping between the two cameras, then it is connected to the two other wires on the blue-box. Remove this is whatever manner you wish (you may want to re-purpose the toggle for other use).
- If you have a front or rear camera they probably already have power connections and you can remove the power connector and associated wiring that was powering the blue box. But if you do not already have camera(s) and you would like to add an aftermarket generic camera, then do not remove the 12v power connector/cable that was powering the blue box - you will re-purpose this to power the after-market camera once it is installed.
- note that Andrejus sells a reasonably priced camera that plugs directly into the head unit's OEM plug, so if you don't
have a camera now and want to add one, then imo buying his camera would be the best route (least headache re install).
- Remove the blue box, and the VGA cable with it. Sell it on eBay or something.

Some other notes:
- You'll note that the above diagram shows a hard-wired option - meaning that it needed to be cut/spliced into your RGB video I/O of your display. Later on, suppliers got more sophisticated with this offering and started offering kits with car-specific connectors attached so that you could simply plug in-between connection points on your harness(es) without having to cut any wires. If you have this then it's even easier to remove.

After removing the extraneous bits you will now have the camera(s) RCA output and possibly power connection remaining. This will look something like:


It's likely that your camera power is still wired in to 12v/gnd somewhere in the car. If it is, then no worries. If it is not, then you can use the power connector that was powering the kit's blue box to power the camera. Simply connect the power connector that was for the blue box:

into the power connector for the camera and you're good.

Connect the RCA composite video output of the camera to legertas's custom camera input:

... and that's all. When you put the car in reverse now the new system will automatically bring this camera view on-screen.

Finally, you'll want to adjust the rear camera grid system using the instructions and data in legertas's installation guide.

If you had a front camera also then you'll probably want a way to toggle between the front and rear camera. There are several ways you could do this. This is what I did:

I already had an extra DPDT switch in place (it was in use with the camera kit mentioned above). So, re-using this switch for the very mechanical approach above gives:
- the DPDT switches between front or rear camera being fed into the head unit,
- when feeding the front camera (position shown in diagram above) the head-unit's reverse signal is also forced to +12v to force the display to show the "Rear" camera display.
- when the switch is in the opposite (normal) position to feed the rear camera signal to the head-unit, the normal reverse signal from the car's harness will be fed into the head unit so it will only display when the car is actually in reverse.
This works great - as with the previous kit I still have the simplicity of a single switch toggle to display the front camera whenever I want. There is no need for an in-motion bypass for this to work.
Of course with this approach I get grid lines in the front camera display - but I don't mind that at all - esp considering that the "steering grid" still moves in the appropriate direction.

UPDATE [Dec 10/2014]: I think Andrejus/legertas is now providing an ready-made switching option that gives you the above rear<->front switching capability (based on my approach above). So if you are considering using a front camera, ask him about this option when you order.

UPDATE [Dec 10/2014]: Even more camera routing options...
So when I was finally starting to put all the panels back in place after the A/V upgrade (it's -10c and snowy here now, so I haven't been in any hurry).

I was thinking about camera connection options again and started thinking that it would be fun to have an option to have the display to show rear cam at any time - kinda like having a 2nd wide-angle rear-view mirror. I was mainly thinking this could be useful for the track, although the angle may be too wide - I'll see in the spring.

If you read my notes on the A/V upgrade and how I added a DPDT switch to toggle display over to front camera at any time, well I just got a little out of control and started adding more splitters and cables... *sigh* Note that my front and rear cams are both always live powered - that's necessary for what I wanted to do next.

I put an RCA splitter on each camera's output and then ran an RCA cable from each of these to the glovebox where the Aux A/V input is located. If you don't have an Aux-In cable then you can stop reading about this option, because it's only for those of us that have an Aux-In or are willing to patch into the Aux-In wires on the harness at the back of the head-unit.

My original DPDT flick-a-switch-to-get-instant-front-cam-with-grid-display design is still in place, as is the normal Reverse gear rear cam display, but now you can also plug in either the front or rear camera's output to the Aux video-in in the glovebox (and leave it plugged in all the time if you like). So, if you're on the road or track and want your screen to act as a wide-angle rear-view mirror (no grid, no text), then just have the rear cam output plugged into the Aux video-in and switch to Aux display on the A/V system.

Of course, as always if you want in-motion aux-video display, you need an in-motion override.

Might be kinda goofy, but I like having options... and no, the splitting of the RCA video out from the cams does not cause any visible detriment in image quality.

The whole mess looks like this now - but it all works very well and gives me all the flexibility I could ever want.



Installation - Removal of your iPod adapter cable kit
It may be worth pulling this kit out and selling it - perhaps it's worth $100+ to someone who doesn't have an iPod interface in their CBA car.
http://www.courtesyp....ml?cPath=7727

Reverse this process http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/iPodConverterInstall.pdf (thanks SpeedForSale!) to take the now useless iPod interface out.

Installation - In-Motion ByPass
I am not going to get into how to wire an in-motion by-pass for getting video/MFD control while in motion. If you search you will find how to do this. I did mine (using a single DPDT toggle and some wiring) 5 years ago so my "passenger" could operate NAV/MFD in-motion when desired.

The only important thing to note here is that the in-motion toggle continues to function as desired with the newer '14 system upgrade. There does not appear to be any changes needed there. Very pleased about that.

Note that on this '14 upgraded system you must have the parking brake engaged to show DVD video or Aux-In video. As soon as the parking brake is disengaged the video will cut out (sound continues). This unfortunately means that if you planned to use the aux-in video input for anything while in-motion (e.g., front camera), you'll need a by-pass of some type installed also.

[UPDATE: Dec 10/2014] Installation - Cables/wires, etc.
There will be one OEM 12-pin connector left over (i.e., unused) that previously went into the back of the original head unit - it's the connector for the optional iPod kit connection for the '09-'10 models. I just stuffed it in behind and left it. Even if you don't have the iPod kit/cable this connector still exists - I believe it goes to a control module behind the passenger kick panel. Forgot to take a pic of it, but it's about 2cm x 1.25cm (3/4" x 1/2") in size.

While on the subject of the iPod connection... If you are planning on using a USB extension cable that will connect into the main USB cable to extend it to your location of choice, then BE SURE TO TEST an iPod/iPhone/MP3 device with this series of cables 1st before you route and reassemble your iPod/USB cable to your centre console or where-ever. An initial extension cable I tried caused terrible data errors from the iPod resulting in music drop-outs, etc. A second extension cable I tried was ok.

The kit's in-line extra harness makes re-insertion of the headunit a bit tight. You'll want to have both side panels off so you can reach hands in behind to push wires around to make everything fit. I'm sure everyone will end up with various positions of the harnesses and connectors behind the head unit, but at least be sure your final harness locations are such that they do not block the fan exhaust at the bottom centre of the head unit.

Don't forget the GPS wire... ;-) I missed it the first time I did a trial hookup - ahhh... why don't I have any GPS signal?! This wire routes differently than the rest and seems to want to hide itself whenever it's disconnected. Also, I noticed the GPS wire was getting very tight while I was putting the new unit in place. The GPS connector on the '09-'10 head unit is on the right side (looking at the rear of the head unit). On the new '14 unit it is on the opposite (left) side. I did not want tension on this wire so I rerouted it.

The default GPS wire routing comes from the left (because the connector on the headunit is on that side) and towards the front of the centre brace as follows. There is also a grey clip/tie holding the wire into the side.



I separated the clip/tie and rerouted the wire in behind the centre brace. This gave it a lot more slack when the unit was pushed all the way in.





Installation - Front Camera Options
Off the top of my head I can see a few ways to have a front camera routed to screen. For example,
- If you have the Aux-In cable installed, route the front cam video out to Aux-In video in and select aux playback to view the front camera feed. As noted though you'll need an in-motion by-pass to make this useful.
- or, if you do not have the aux-in cable, you could wire the front camera's video out directly into the head unit's aux-in (search for notes on this).
- or, buy a kit from CarKitCompany, Brian makes good stuff ! http://www.carkitcom...r-bypass-remote
- or, add a toggle to trick the system to engage the rear camera view but the toggle also switches the video input from rear to front camera.
- or add in something like this: http://navtv.com/use... manual rB1.pdf
- or, there are probably other ways...

End.
 

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Wow, awesome post bro.

On behalf of the community, thank you very much for the info.
 

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1,520 Posts
This could be a solution for the cba av unit problems?
What problem would that be? If you have a dead unit I have a CBA unite for sale....
 

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Thanks for the great write-up. I've been planning on getting this ever since legertas posted about it but needed more info on how to get it to work with my front/rear cameras, AV input, and whatnot. Your post is exactly the info I needed.
 

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This solution for 2 cameras will work .
 

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2009 R35 (GOD7ILLA)
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393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Small update re optional cam wiring:

A few days ago I was finally starting to put all the panels back in place after the A/V upgrade (it's -10c and snowy here now, so I'm not in any hurry).

I was thinking about the camera connection options again and started thinking that it would be fun to have an option to have the display to show rear cam at any time - kinda like having a 2nd wide-angle rear-view mirror. I was mainly thinking this could be useful for the track, although the angle may be too wide - I'll see in the spring.

If you read my notes on the A/V upgrade and how I added a DPDT switch to toggle display over to front camera at any time, well I just got a little out of control and started adding more splitters and cables... *sigh*

I put an RCA splitter on each camera's output and then ran an RCA cable from each of these to the glovebox where the Aux A/V input is located. Of course, this assumes you have the optional Aux-In cable. If you do not, then there's probably no point in reading on.

My front and rear cams are both always powered - i.e., they are not powered on/off with rear lights, a relay, etc.

My original DPDT flick-a-switch-to-get-instant-front-cam-with-grid-display design is still in place, as is the normal Reverse gear rear cam display of course.

Now though, you can also plug in either the front or rear camera's output to the Aux video-in in the glovebox (and leave it plugged in all the time if you like).   So, if you're on the road or track and want your screen to act as a wide-angle rear-view mirror (no grid, no text), then just have the rear cam output plugged into the Aux video-in and switch to Aux display on the A/V system.

Of course, as always if you want in-motion aux-video display, you need an in-motion override.

Might be kinda goofy, but I like having options.

The splitting of the RCA video out from the cams does not cause any visible detriment in image quality.

PS. For anyone considering ordering from Andrejus, I believe he is now providing an option to include a front and rear camera switch loosely based on this design - a nice option to have if you run front and rear cams (or are considering it).

The whole mess looks like this now - but it all works very well and gives me all the flexibility I could ever want.
 

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2009 R35 (GOD7ILLA)
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393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Also added some updates in the original notes re cabling/connectors.
 

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357 Posts
Awesome, I will be getting this soon. One question will this add the reverse beep? I have a CBA and one of my HUGE concerns with the DBA is the damn reverse beep, these are super cars and if you don't know when you're in reverse without a beep then you shouldn't be driving one.
 

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2009 R35 (GOD7ILLA)
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393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Awesome, I will be getting this soon. One question will this add the reverse beep? I have a CBA and one of my HUGE concerns with the DBA is the damn reverse beep, these are super cars and if you don't know when you're in reverse without a beep then you shouldn't be driving one.
No it does not add reverse beep... no worries.
 

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I just installed this kit on my 2010 GTR. [background=rgb(246, 246, 246)]Andrejus was excellent to work with and the kit was flawless. Thanks again![/background]
 

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4 Posts
hey guys im gonna replace my av unit.
mine is 2010 nissan gtr premium.
not gonna upgrade the unit just gonna replace with new same stock version.
do i need a diagnotic tool to reset/reprogram the av unit or its just plug and play work?
pls help me in this. im in dilemma.
 

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2009 R35 (GOD7ILLA)
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393 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's a direct p&p swap. No programming needed.
 

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Where can I find instructions to remove the bezel starting from scratch? Thx
 
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