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Hey guys I thought I would give you all an update (first of all I apologize for the long post).I had posted a while back about the clunking problem in my tranny in reverse and low speed turns (ie parking etc). Nissan's solution was to replace the tranny and their only diagnosis was a "coupler" problem, which as many of you commented doesn't even exist in the tranny in a traditional sense. Well I continued to drive and still no codes, had the diff fluid changed (dealer hit me up for $450 bucks based on Nissan's recommendation) and seemed to provide some relief. Tracked a couple times and seemed to be OK. The last track night I drove home 80 miles in torrential rain and then drove the car to the office in the AM. I then proceeded to drop off at my high end sports car shop in town "Fox Motorsports" to get the brakes done (you may recall Nissan would not put the AP J hooks on because they didn't have hats). Well low and behold the car totally locked up in their parking lot (all 4 wheels). It was a total miracle that this did not happen on the highway or even at the stop light as I have no idea what I would have done. Anyway after freaking out I was able to contact JON H on the board. He helped me to figure out how to get it moved and recommended I hook up my access port in the AM and try to pull codes (still no codes at this point). Also immediately called John at Shep for his recommendation. John was very helpful to calming me down and said worst case scenario I could have Fox remove to driveshaft to allow it to get on a trailer. John went above and beyond as it was after hours and still spent about a ½ hour on the phone with me!

After all this I went back in the AM to pull codes, I jumped in the car (in the parking lot still) and the car actually turned over like nothing happened (before it seemed like it was stuck in gear), we then pulled into the Fox facility for safekeeping and Marc at Fox was able to arrange shipping for me with one of his covered units (doesn't get much better than this, as they have their own trailers and drivers). I gotta tell you between these guys and John at Shep I couldn't be in better hands.

Anyway, given the freaky lockup and the strange behavior after (car was jumpy and hoppy beyond normal). I figured Shep was the man for the project. The car was delivered to Shep last Tuesday, tranny pulled and diagnosis delivered on Friday. John actually worked extra on the holiday weekend to get me a quote on Saturday so I could rest my fears. I will get to the game plan in a second now onto Nissan North America dealings. Over the course of the few days before receiving the diagnosis I contacted Nissan North America and reiterated to them this was no normal problem. They kept on saying their techs were saying a coupler issue based on the data pulled and that it needed a new tranny period. I brought up that I am a reasonable man and if they could tell me specifically what was wrong I was willing to take responsibility but they needed to prove my tune, midpipe and exhaust had caused the problem. They did not feel that was their responsibility. As such after you read the diagnosis if you can figure out any advice with Nissan I would be thankful. I do not want them to touch my car again as you will read but think I should be entitled to something.

Now the diagnosis! John emailed me and it is was not pretty, anyway when all is said and done I had some major damage in the tranny, the fwd clutch plates were worn down and the ramp had actually went over center and locked them. In addition the fwd circlip that is famous for coming off happened on my tranny also (Nissan should have picked this up at the dealer), which enhance the problems. Furthermore John discovered when breaking it down that the Driveshaft was loose to the hand (ie the bolts had not been tightened) realize I tracked 2 times after the dealer trip and probably drove 700-800 miles. This could have been TRAGIC! We still can't figure out why given the low mileage this failure took place but it has (ie 13K). As a result he has begun his Stage 2 upgrade. John will be adding the following:

PPG 1st gear set, Dodson super stock clutch, Dodson Mechanical Circlip 1, Dodson Mechanical Circlip 2, Oil Pump shaft upgrade with blueprint, O-ring and Seal Upgrade Kit, Dodson FWD retainer, High temp rear diff oil seal, Stainless reusable internal tranny filter, 6 neodymium magnets, Dodson FWD gear set, FWD clutch pack, FWD clutch fluid, shaft collar, Front case seal, clutch oil pump drive gear.

This will not only make the tranny solid but I think the term is ROCK SOLID! I take solace in this even given the cost, as I will finally be able to drive this car the way it was meant to drive (by the way I had to remind my wife it was still cheaper than a 2012) and better.

So now onto the power question, this is what I have:

2010 Nissan Super Silver GTR (LC2)
Go: HKS Legamax Catback, HKS Midpipe (Catless), Kressieg Downpipes(Catless)
Tune: Cobb AP-NIS-006 - Jack Cecil HP Logic ECU and TCM Tune with 4K custom launch
Stop: AP J Hook Rotors, Forged SS Brake Lines, Endless MX72 Pads, Motul Brake Fluid
Cooling: SSP Transmission Cooler, HKS Drop In Filters
Grip: Potenza R2's (OEM Size) for Track and Daily Driving, Nitto NT05R & Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
Handling: Eibach sway bar

Would this car and the enhanced tranny be a good candidate to go the LC1 route (ie I saw that Switzer is now doing an LC1 mod which they did on Sheps 2011 with LC3). Also, are there any other small and quick enhancements that would get my power up a bit higher to handle the better tranny.

My main objectives are 10.5 quarter miles or lower (with my Nitto NT05R's), build rpms quickly at launch so I can actually get to 4000+ rpms from the time I stage to the time it is green and have a great road course car. This is only my first season ever tracking and I have improved dramatically so far and love it!

Sorry for the long post but I figured I would consult the experts I see on the board. Thanks in advance for your input! Also, if you have any thoughts on my position with Nissan NA I would appreciate it as I see it 1) I could have gotten killed number one if the lockup had occurred someplace other than the parking lot 2) The fact my driveshaft wasn't tightened correctly was a catastrophe waiting to happen, however, I have no way to prove other than Shep's witness. 3) The circlip failure which is a known issue most likely caused a major portion of the damage and that is something that happens over and over on stock GTR's 4) During this whole time the car never threw a single CODE ... as such Nissan should take some responsibility.

I still love my GTR and will love it more once it is done, however my Nissan experience has been a big negative! High praises for NAGTROC and its vendors, you get an A and Nissan a big fat F.
 

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At a minimum, I would have fuel injectors installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What type of injectors would you recommend? Seems like a cheap way to get extra HP (how much extra HP do injectors yield?). I really don't want to hassle with E85 even though it is prevelant in my area, I don't want to hassle with the corrosion issue as well as the fuel pumps and having to monitor the quality,etc.
 

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Id1000 injectors if no E85. You should also get 3" intake. If you read your datalog, I am sure you are maxing out on the mass air flow meter and injectors.
I Agree. Pm'ed
 

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If Shep took any pictures of the tranny, send them to Nissan..........esp of the circlip........can't hurt to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If Shep took any pictures of the tranny, send them to Nissan..........esp of the circlip........can't hurt to try.
Great idea, he's just starting tomorrow so the timing is perfect!
 

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Hey Steve, I saw your GTR up on a lift at Sheptrans sitting next to his, when I picked mine up Sat. Sounds like you're getting things all figured out, and too damn bad Nissan turned your back on you the way they did. btw, I can also vouch for John being a real straight shooter, if a little hard to get outta bed on his day off.
He treated me more than fairly, and would definitely recommend him to anyone seeking his services. Oh btw, he ALSO found a loose bolt on my car's rear 1/2 shaft, literally about to fall out, and another that attaches a cable to the tranny. Good thing I babied the hell out of it after picking it up from dealer. Not cool at all by the GTR Tech that replaced my tranny. I have pics.
 

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Sorry to hear about this saga, but it looks to be a happy ending.

Regarding your dealings with NNA, you said you were informed that it was not their responsibility to tell you specifically what was wrong. For what it might be worth, you could point out to them that according to the Magnusson-Moss Act, it is indeed the manufacturers responsibility to prove a customer's modification(s) directly caused the failure in question before denying warranty coverage. That part of the act is very clear. If they cannot prove your mods caused the failure, they are obligated by law to cover your failed trans under warranty. Couple that with photos documenting the diagnosis. One of those failures, however, could have been caused by your increased power, and that is the excess wear on the FWD clutches. The others would not have been caused by your mods. And the loose driveshaft is just sloppy work by your dealership. I agree, it could have led to a very unfortunate accident.

Regarding the injectors, they don't net any more power per se, but they keep you from maxing out the stockers. With your mods, especially in cool/cold weather, you would run a risk of maxing them out and running lean. The larger injectors will give you more headroom.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Steve (Goodwood), glad you saw it and glad to hear you are back in action! Did you figure out what you are doing with your injectors and intakes? I'm thinking of adding as long as it is there!
 

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I'm running stock injectors with no immediate plans to upgrade, and have Cobb SF intakes.
Steve, do you have a custom dyno tune? If not, then you're stock injectors are fine. They would even be fine for a very conservative tune. But if you are running say 17 to 18 psi peak with a taper to 14 to 15 at redline, you might be close to or over 100% IDC, especially in cold/cool weather. If you have a tune, is it a V3 so you can see the boost gauge flash if knock sums are detected?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I do have a custom tune and I'll track up here in western Michigan until late October so definitely the injectors sound right! Jack Cecil did my tune so I will discuss I have seen the flash happen before never knew what it was?
 

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I do have a custom tune and I'll track up here in western Michigan until late October so definitely the injectors sound right! Jack Cecil did my tune so I will discuss I have seen the flash happen before never knew what it was?
Flashing boost gauge = knock. It could be that you are maxing out your injectors or just that your tune needs tweaking. Try to replicate conditions that make it flash and once you get that nailed down, datalog and send the log to your tuner. He can tell you if you're at > 100% IDC or if you just need a tweak to your tune.
 

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Hey guys I thought I would give you all an update (first of all I apologize for the long post).I had posted a while back about the clunking problem in my tranny in reverse and low speed turns (ie parking etc). Nissan's solution was to replace the tranny and their only diagnosis was a "coupler" problem, which as many of you commented doesn't even exist in the tranny in a traditional sense. Well I continued to drive and still no codes, had the diff fluid changed (dealer hit me up for $450 bucks based on Nissan's recommendation) and seemed to provide some relief. Tracked a couple times and seemed to be OK. The last track night I drove home 80 miles in torrential rain and then drove the car to the office in the AM. I then proceeded to drop off at my high end sports car shop in town "Fox Motorsports" to get the brakes done (you may recall Nissan would not put the AP J hooks on because they didn't have hats). Well low and behold the car totally locked up in their parking lot (all 4 wheels). It was a total miracle that this did not happen on the highway or even at the stop light as I have no idea what I would have done. Anyway after freaking out I was able to contact JON H on the board. He helped me to figure out how to get it moved and recommended I hook up my access port in the AM and try to pull codes (still no codes at this point). Also immediately called John at Shep for his recommendation. John was very helpful to calming me down and said worst case scenario I could have Fox remove to driveshaft to allow it to get on a trailer. John went above and beyond as it was after hours and still spent about a ½ hour on the phone with me!

After all this I went back in the AM to pull codes, I jumped in the car (in the parking lot still) and the car actually turned over like nothing happened (before it seemed like it was stuck in gear), we then pulled into the Fox facility for safekeeping and Marc at Fox was able to arrange shipping for me with one of his covered units (doesn't get much better than this, as they have their own trailers and drivers). I gotta tell you between these guys and John at Shep I couldn't be in better hands.

Anyway, given the freaky lockup and the strange behavior after (car was jumpy and hoppy beyond normal). I figured Shep was the man for the project. The car was delivered to Shep last Tuesday, tranny pulled and diagnosis delivered on Friday. John actually worked extra on the holiday weekend to get me a quote on Saturday so I could rest my fears. I will get to the game plan in a second now onto Nissan North America dealings. Over the course of the few days before receiving the diagnosis I contacted Nissan North America and reiterated to them this was no normal problem. They kept on saying their techs were saying a coupler issue based on the data pulled and that it needed a new tranny period. I brought up that I am a reasonable man and if they could tell me specifically what was wrong I was willing to take responsibility but they needed to prove my tune, midpipe and exhaust had caused the problem. They did not feel that was their responsibility. As such after you read the diagnosis if you can figure out any advice with Nissan I would be thankful. I do not want them to touch my car again as you will read but think I should be entitled to something.

Now the diagnosis! John emailed me and it is was not pretty, anyway when all is said and done I had some major damage in the tranny, the fwd clutch plates were worn down and the ramp had actually went over center and locked them. In addition the fwd circlip that is famous for coming off happened on my tranny also (Nissan should have picked this up at the dealer), which enhance the problems. Furthermore John discovered when breaking it down that the Driveshaft was loose to the hand (ie the bolts had not been tightened) realize I tracked 2 times after the dealer trip and probably drove 700-800 miles. This could have been TRAGIC! We still can't figure out why given the low mileage this failure took place but it has (ie 13K). As a result he has begun his Stage 2 upgrade. John will be adding the following:

PPG 1st gear set, Dodson super stock clutch, Dodson Mechanical Circlip 1, Dodson Mechanical Circlip 2, Oil Pump shaft upgrade with blueprint, O-ring and Seal Upgrade Kit, Dodson FWD retainer, High temp rear diff oil seal, Stainless reusable internal tranny filter, 6 neodymium magnets, Dodson FWD gear set, FWD clutch pack, FWD clutch fluid, shaft collar, Front case seal, clutch oil pump drive gear.

This will not only make the tranny solid but I think the term is ROCK SOLID! I take solace in this even given the cost, as I will finally be able to drive this car the way it was meant to drive (by the way I had to remind my wife it was still cheaper than a 2012) and better.

So now onto the power question, this is what I have:

2010 Nissan Super Silver GTR (LC2)
Go: HKS Legamax Catback, HKS Midpipe (Catless), Kressieg Downpipes(Catless)
Tune: Cobb AP-NIS-006 - Jack Cecil HP Logic ECU and TCM Tune with 4K custom launch
Stop: AP J Hook Rotors, Forged SS Brake Lines, Endless MX72 Pads, Motul Brake Fluid
Cooling: SSP Transmission Cooler, HKS Drop In Filters
Grip: Potenza R2's (OEM Size) for Track and Daily Driving, Nitto NT05R & Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
Handling: Eibach sway bar

Would this car and the enhanced tranny be a good candidate to go the LC1 route (ie I saw that Switzer is now doing an LC1 mod which they did on Sheps 2011 with LC3). Also, are there any other small and quick enhancements that would get my power up a bit higher to handle the better tranny.

My main objectives are 10.5 quarter miles or lower (with my Nitto NT05R's), build rpms quickly at launch so I can actually get to 4000+ rpms from the time I stage to the time it is green and have a great road course car. This is only my first season ever tracking and I have improved dramatically so far and love it!

Sorry for the long post but I figured I would consult the experts I see on the board. Thanks in advance for your input! Also, if you have any thoughts on my position with Nissan NA I would appreciate it as I see it 1) I could have gotten killed number one if the lockup had occurred someplace other than the parking lot 2) The fact my driveshaft wasn't tightened correctly was a catastrophe waiting to happen, however, I have no way to prove other than Shep's witness. 3) The circlip failure which is a known issue most likely caused a major portion of the damage and that is something that happens over and over on stock GTR's 4) During this whole time the car never threw a single CODE ... as such Nissan should take some responsibility.

I still love my GTR and will love it more once it is done, however my Nissan experience has been a big negative! High praises for NAGTROC and its vendors, you get an A and Nissan a big fat F.
Quick question? Why would you want to revert back to LC1 which places a large shock load on the tranny, regardless that it's pretty well 'bullet proof' due to Shep's excellent work? With the newer LC program's in the latest Cobb software, can't you vary the rpm at launch but still have it function like the OEM LC2, i.e. 'kinder to the tranny'? Surely the difference in 0-60 etc. must be minimal to non-existant?
Bish
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good point Bish, the key issue is it seems LC2 takes forever to get the RPM's up to 4K even with the Cobb TCM and custom TCM tune. The LC1 is pretty quick in comparison. That was my only thought....
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
How much is the tranny build gonna cost just curious to those who might wanna go this route
I'll let you talk to Shep on your specific build however the Stage 2 is about double the stage 1 (due to the clutches etc). I wish I would have known how cheap the Stage 1 was and would have done it when I bought the car and started tracking. I came to the conclusion it is liberating not to be at the mercy of Nissan and just replacing tranny's will not allow your machine to function as it should regardless of warranty or not!
 
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