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Discussion starter · #61 ·
Never tried the R888's so I can't comment, but they are likely very similar to the Nitto's since they are the same company. I would think the 35 series is much too small in terms of diameter on an 18" wheel, so I would try the 40 series and see how they work. R compounds wear fast on track, so you can try different models to see how they compare. I have been happy with the Nitto's considering the price, so I have seen no need to try more expensive tires. I try to balance cost versus performance, and prefer to do more track days and spend money on track time rather than expensive tires that just wear out even faster than the Nitto's.
 
Icarus: are still running/recommending the Enkei GTC-01 or have you moved on to other 18'' setups or 19''/20'' wheels?
I have not run the Enkei GTC-01 setup because I was able to get a low cost set of CCW 18x10.5 wheels. I have run the 275/40/18 Nittos on these wheels and they are great. I think the only downside to 18" wheels on the GT-R is I suspect less air gets to the brakes with the smaller wheel. However 19" and 20" wheels have fewer tire options.

Recently I have run some track days on my OEM wheels, using Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 285/35/20 on all 4 corners. This is a great compromise tire as it is fantastic in all weather conditions and it is pretty good on the track, and very durable. I highly recommend this tire for beginning track drivers.
 
Regarding the 18'', have you noticed some increased wear of the brake pads/rotors, or the car was more prone to brake fade?
Depending on the tracks, minimum brake cooling solution like deflectors should be a requirement then.

Thanks for the feedback Icarus, regarding the MPSS. Yes, many people praise the 285 square setup or the staggered 285/335 setup.
Pricey though compare to the Nitto NT01.
Performance and durability wise on track, how did you compare the NT01 and MPSS?
 
Been searching for a 18" or 19" track wheel/tire setup for my GT-R.

After reading this thread I am sold on the Eneki 18x10" +22 wheels in Hyper Black. Anyone have a source/price for these wheels? Forged performance?

I am also wondering what others thoughts are on mounting the 315/30/18 Nitto NT01s on a 10" wheel. I know 315 would like a 10.5" wide wheel, but I've also read in numerous places that the Nitto 315s aren't as wide as other brands 315 tires. If I could fit the 315s without it being a safety issue, I would go with the 275/35/18s on the front and have a stock like stagger.
The Enkei GTC-01 in 18x10" et 22 is commonly available (see Vividracing.com or tirerack.com) and much less pricey yet are large enough to fit over the large front GTR brake calipers. I don't think any 17" wheel is going to fit over the rear GTR brake.

Even though brake clearance is limited I have not had any problems with brake fade or heat building up when autocrossing even with multiple runs and not much time between to cool off. You can always add a thin spacer if you have wheel studs to gain a little clearance. Adding a brake duct for air flow is also OK.

Besides the tires mentioned there is another option for 18x19" rims for use on the track which can also be driven on the street and is more grippy than Michelin Pilot Super Sport.

Image

BF Goodrich Rival (Extreme Summer tires) 200 treadwear
295/35-18 $295 each, square setup, fits rims 10-11.5" wide, perfect for 10.5" wide rim, 29 lbs, 26.1" tire diameter, 99 load rated, W speed rated.
This tire will work on the street but will not be as comfortable as the MPSS, it will also wear faster on the track but as good as any Extreme Summer tire without the harshness of the OEM runflats.
They offer superior grip in dry and some light rain, not for standing water.

315/30-18 $325 each, square setup, fits rims 10.5-11.5" wide, perfect for 11" wide rim, 29 lbs, 25.5" tire diameter, 98 load rated, W speed rated.

As far as balance goes I think the 295/35-18 size will do better on the track with a suspension that is firmer than OEM and not too dropped.
315/30-18 with 25.5" tire diameter is awfully low if using a dropped suspension and may scrape when passing over dips at speed. If your track is very flat and smooth or if you have stiff coilovers I think you can fit the 315/30-18 tire on the 18x10" rim no problem. The two tire sizes are 29 lbs.

I do use 15mm spacers in the front to allow more space from the inside suspension parts to the inner edge of the wheel, I had some scraping that was mild.
Due to the wider than OEM front track with the spacers I added 20mm spacers to the rears and run with that. I have ARP studs all around and open lug nuts.

If you do change wheels for track often and are still using the OEM wheel studs and OEM lug nuts I recommend at least once a year using a thread retap tool to clean the threads on the studs as they can get dirty and start to corrode. Once they get dirty the lug nuts will tend to seize on the stud and won't come loose. I borrow the retap tool from my local Checkers for 24 hours and return it for free.
 
Regarding the 18'', have you noticed some increased wear of the brake pads/rotors, or the car was more prone to brake fade?
Depending on the tracks, minimum brake cooling solution like deflectors should be a requirement then.
Thanks for the feedback Icarus, regarding the MPSS. Yes, many people praise the 285 square setup or the staggered 285/335 setup.
Pricey though compare to the Nitto NT01.
Performance and durability wise on track, how did you compare the NT01 and MPSS?
I am hard on brakes, but in any given 25 minute track session I don't recall noticeable fade. Everyone brakes differently though. The main concern with brakes is longevity. The cooler you keep them the longer you can go before having to replace expensive pads and rotors. I run air guides from Rexpeed and the Willall brake cooling system in front and it has extended my pad life considerably.

I have found both the Nitto NT01 and MPSS tires to be very durable, but the MPSS more so. They are a 300 treadwear tire, the NT01 is only a 100. You will go faster on an NT01, and be able to do more hot laps before they start to overheat, but the MPSS are easier to drive (more progressive) and are far better in wet conditions. As with any tire, if you continue to push it after they start overheating, you can easily destroy them in a short number of sessions.
 
The thing about running on track for tires is the effect of energy you put into them and the heat generated. If you get the tires very hot, then street tires will start to get greasy and fall off in grip. Tires take many laps to build up temperature and pressure, so it running condition all depends on ambient temps, track temps, sunlight amount on track, and how hard you push, and how hard you brake, and the car you are driving. If you are making the cold pressure go up by 10-12 psi per tire, then you are pushing hard and street tires will not be too satisfying after many laps. That is when you should be running R compounds. I have only run on the OEM RFT's or the Nitto NT-01's with my GT-R, and it is much better on the Nitto's for me, as my pressures always go up from about 26 psi cold to 34-36 psi hot, sometimes more, but I can certainly have fun on the RFT''s if I didn't have room to pack the R compounds (i.e. wife came along for the trip!).

I have never tried the MPSS on track (but I have them on a road car), so I don't know about those on a road course. I have seen many people run a wide variety of cars on track and they never get the tire pressures to go up anything close to 10-12 psi, so they are not really pushing hard, and that is very common, and you always see people taking pressures and adjusting hot pressures to whatever values the Internet has told them it should be, irrespective of how they drive. If one takes a pyrometer and checks their tire temps, temps are often low relative to optimum temp for an R compound, which might be 160-200F, which should be checked with the manufacturer. When tires get above the optimum tire temp, they start to slide and wear quickly. I have had some un-shaved Toyo RA-1's go up to 300F one time, and that was a very slidy, squirmy tire. Here is info on the Nitto NT-01 for example:

"The NT01 features a jointless cap and edge ply, two steel belts, a jointless bead wire, a high-modulus casing and hard bead filler. The racing tread compound has an ideal operating temperature between 160 and 220 degrees. Nitto says 200 degrees is optimal, which is what we measured in the pits with our pyrometer."

Read more: http://www.popularho.../#ixzz2YlOCRWNO

You never know what the temperature is by just reading the pressure. You need a pyrometer to properly set up tire pressures. Of course R compounds will not last as long as an MPSS or other street tire. Speed costs; how fast do you want to go!
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
No problem with lack of TPMS sensors on the track wheels. After a while car just pops up a message about a fault related to no TPMS sensors. Ignore it by pushing the dash display button and then when you put your street rims back on, it automatically goes away once the car has time to detect them. No other effect on anything at all that I have ever noticed other than the message on the dash.
 
I second that comment about raising tire pressures over 10 psi on street tires rapidly increasing tire wear on street tires. I started the day around 25psi and by the afternoon I was seeing 42. My tires hate me (Dunlop a/s)
 
Just to let others know- (I don't have a track but I do autocross and Driving schools)

On my Enkei GTC-01 18x10" wheels using Swift Sport springs/ stock shocks, Whiteline front and rear adjustable swaybars, and Whiteline front control arm adjustable bushings-

These are some of my past tires and sizes-

Kumho V710
305/30-18 $391 each, fits 10.5-11.5" rims, perfect for 11" wide rim, 27 lbs, 25.5" tire diameter. squared shoulder
and to be for this season:
315/35-18 $369 each, fits 10.5-12.5" rims, perfect for 12" wide rim, 28 lbs, 26.4" tire diameter. rounded shoulder

Hoosier A6
295/30-18 $365 each, fits 9.5-11" rims, perfect for 10" wide rim, 24 lbs, 25.3" tire diameter. squared shoulder

I started with the V710 in 305/30-18 and ran on it for 3 years with 12 events per year, at the end I used it in an Evo Driving school and there was still some grip left as my times were competitive in the right (instructors) hands. With my lowered suspension the small tire diameter led to frequent scraping of the front lower lip and lower body panels when dips on the course were hit at speed, I think the soft stock shocks even on sport mode could not keep up.

Then I ran for 2 years on the A6 which weighed less, was a perfect fit for my wheels and was about the same price. I never really felt at home with these tires and while some events I did well enough for the top 10 on rawtimes out of 90 drivers, I felt I could not get the tires up to temperatures to allow for better grip. Often the temperatures of the fronts were 135 max and 120 in the rears. Our courses are short at 35 seconds. I never felt that the lighter tire was of much advantage for me. Top speeds during the runs were up to about 55-60.

This season I will be trying V710 in 315/35-18 which is slightly wide for my rim, weight is slightly higher at 28, more rubber could help, I run front 15mm spacers which I can remove to get some clearance if needed for turning. I could also use a thin 55 spacer to get some clearance so the inner rim edge doesn't rub the inside suspension parts which happened on some of my wheels. The rounded shoulder is supposed to help cars that don't have enough negative camber, I'm now running -3.0 degrees in front. Also the V710 is supposed to work OK at lower tire temperatures which seem to be my tendency. I think if the course was longer with more high speed turns or the time between runs was shorter so my tires would not cool down as much the A6 could be a option.

For all of my 5 seasons on the GTR I have never corded an R compound tire. I do flip my tires at about 40% wear, I only run them in competition, not for fun runs, I clean and wash them down regularly and store them indoors with AC. I always purchase them with heat cycling, and wear them a little to remove mold release before the first event.
 
Just ran the same Enkei setup with fresh Nitto NT-01's on track today. Works fantastic. Passed every car there.
Just curious, have you thought about trying the BFG R1 or R1S in 275/40/18? I am tempting this idea because of the good wear and grip that I have been hearing.
 
Just curious, have you thought about trying the BFG R1 or R1S in 275/40/18? I am tempting this idea because of the good wear and grip that I have been hearing.
BF Goodrich g-Force R1
275/35-18 $321 each, fits rims 9-11" wide, perfect for 9.5", 24 lbs, 25.4" tire diam. 87 load rated
285/30-18 $353 each, fits rims 10-11" wide, perfect for 10", 24 lbs, 24.9" tire diam. 86 load rated
335/30-18 $364 each, fits rims 12-13" wide, perfect for 12", 30 lbs, 25.7" tire diam. 95 load rated
No 275/40-18 size

BFG g-Force R1 S comes in same sizes, no 275/40-18.

None of these sizes seems optimal for 18x10" rims on a heavy GTR that could benefit from a wide tire.
 
BF Goodrich g-Force R1
275/35-18 $321 each, fits rims 9-11" wide, perfect for 9.5", 24 lbs, 25.4" tire diam. 87 load rated
285/30-18 $353 each, fits rims 10-11" wide, perfect for 10", 24 lbs, 24.9" tire diam. 86 load rated
335/30-18 $364 each, fits rims 12-13" wide, perfect for 12", 30 lbs, 25.7" tire diam. 95 load rated
No 275/40-18 size

BFG g-Force R1 S comes in same sizes, no 275/40-18.

None of these sizes seems optimal for 18x10" rims on a heavy GTR that could benefit from a wide tire.
Thanks. I meant to type 275/35/18. Not sure why you think they are not optimal for 18x10 though, are you referring to the load?. If you have actually seen one in person, you will know what I am talking about.

I dare to say they are equivalent (or slightly wider) than the Hoosier A6 285/30/18. I know this because I bought a set to put on a 18x9.5 (intended for my Evo). I put it up against the same wheel size with Kumho V710, and the R1-S is clearly much much wider, so wide that I couldn't get them fit within my fenders.

I have always preferred a taller tire than the 285 size R-comp in the market (i.e. A6, V710 equivalent), the R1-S seems to fit the bill because it is taller and wider than the A6/V710. The s2000 guys have a tough time to get heat in the R1-S, but Evo guys seem to work becasue the car is heavy. By this, I think the R1-S may be a good solution for 18" R-comp for the GTR.
Image
 
You can certainly try the R1S in 275/35-18 and tires from different makers can run a little wider or narrow in the same size. 87 load rating is pretty low for a GTR but could be done.
The size will fit 18x10" rims and give a little more sidewall.

Hoosier A6 in 285/30-18 fits 18x10" rims, has a small 24.9" tire diameter and is 86 load rated
It has tire section width 11.5" and tread width of 10.9".

For the BF Goodrich R1-S
275/35-18 has tire section width 10.9" and tread width of 10.8" (but may run a little wider when on a 18x10" rim since perfect fit is 18x9.5")
285/30-18 has tire section width 11.4" and tread width of 11.3"

It is possible that the tires will look nearly equivalent once mounted in tread width. I don't think the 24.9" tire diameter is as good for ground clearance in performance driving for the GTR.
 
I have not run the Enkei GTC-01 setup because I was able to get a low cost set of CCW 18x10.5 wheels. I have run the 275/40/18 Nittos on these wheels and they are great. I think the only downside to 18" wheels on the GT-R is I suspect less air gets to the brakes with the smaller wheel. However 19" and 20" wheels have fewer tire options.

Recently I have run some track days on my OEM wheels, using Michelin Pilot Super Sports in 285/35/20 on all 4 corners. This is a great compromise tire as it is fantastic in all weather conditions and it is pretty good on the track, and very durable. I highly recommend this tire for beginning track drivers.
It would be nice if they made a MPSC tire for the GTR it would be pricey but I'm sure it would be excellent. BTW when you ran the GTC-01 NT01 setup did you use any spacers ?
 
Another good point to have track only wheels/tires is to reduce marbles on your street tires.
Painful when riding back home from the track and during the following few days.

Any recommendation regarding tire pyrometer?

Finally, with the Enkei can I use the factory GT-R lug nuts or do I need different ones (like open ended nuts).
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
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