Nissan GT-R Forum banner
1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
R35
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Transmission Fluid Service light went on around 34,000 miles a couple days ago dealers I called are charging about $1,100 for parts and labor. $699 for fluids and $400 for labor

Im located in Los Angeles, Ca

Does that sound like a reasonable price?

Also has anyone done it themselves?
The dear said they have to reprogram the transmission change the something in the fluid pan and set up the gears which makes me think a DIY wont be as easy as the other posts state.

Lastly, is it best to use OEM transmission fluid or is there any other brand thats as good or even better?

Thanks for the help! I really like how GTR community is willing to help all the time!

-Harris
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,155 Posts
I use oem and never had issues. You have to go thru the gears which is easy and there are instructions on the forum I believe. Best to have a lift though. $400 labor is cheap as it takes me over 4 hours on a lift including the front and rear diff. The fluid takes about 8 quart . I paid around $1200 first time at dealer, tranny, and front and rear diff.

I would think spe would do it much cheaper.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,106 Posts
i paid 450 labor, but that was for my whole 18k service. i paid about 375-400 for all my oem trans oil. people on ebay sell them for 50 a bottle, maybe you can buy in bulk for cheaper. also, you may not need all 10 bottles, because my dealer did 7. i found out that's pretty normal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I wouldn't bother with the OEM fluid unless you have an extended warranty. Even then just use Jacks fluid. It was 460 for the transmission and diff fluid plus extra magnets for the pan. It's the same color as factory so they won't know the difference. I just DIY'd it and it's very straight forward but I did it on a lift.
 

·
R35
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I use oem and never had issues. You have to go thru the gears which is easy and there are instructions on the forum I believe. Best to have a lift though. $400 labor is cheap as it takes me over 4 hours on a lift including the front and rear diff. The fluid takes about 8 quart . I paid around $1200 first time at dealer, tranny, and front and rear diff.

$1200 for tranny and diff's is pretty good dealers I talked to want $1700 for that.

I would think spe would do it much cheaper.

I just called spe they want $550 for trans with labor and $750 for trans and diff's fluid and labor using motul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
I wouldn't bother with the OEM fluid unless you have an extended warranty. Even then just use Jacks fluid. It was 460 for the transmission and diff fluid plus extra magnets for the pan. It's the same color as factory so they won't know the difference. I just DIY'd it and it's very straight forward but I did it on a lift.

Yeah i dont have any warranties except the sad excuse for the power train warranty. I havent heard of jack fluid so i'm not to sure about it.. have you used it before? A lift is kind of hard to get a hold of and setting up the gears is what scares me haha
Jacks Transmission http://www.jackstransmissions.com I have it in my car right now. His oil is the same as OEM with more detergents in it. The Diff oil cleared up the jerkiness of my rear differential when backing up in a tight turn while cold. Really any of the oils mentioned above will be fine.

There's no "Setting up the gears". You just put the car in Park, 1st, 2nd (if you're still running LC2) and reverse after you fill it up to make sure the new oil gets ported through the solenoids and passages. It's just a sentence in the DIY :

"9. With depressing the brake pedal, shift the paddle shifter to the N range → M range, 1st gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 2nd gear (wait for 5 seconds) → M range, 1st gear → N range at idle."

Here's the complete DIY from SpS http://www.speedforsale.com/staff/files/TransmissionFluidGTR.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
There's no "Setting up the gears". You just put the car in Park, 1st, 2nd (if you're still running LC2) and reverse after you fill it up to make sure the new oil gets ported through the solenoids and passages.
For newer GTRs, it'd be just P-R-N-1st-N-R-P, correct? And wait 5 seconds on each step, correct? And do you really have to replace the drain plug? Seems odd. Finally, what are the torque values for the fill plug, drain tube, and drain plug? Thx.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
For newer GTRs, it'd be just P-R-N-1st-N-R-P, correct? And wait 5 seconds on each step, correct? And do you really have to replace the drain plug? Seems odd. Finally, what are the torque values for the fill plug, drain tube, and drain plug? Thx.
For anything newer then LC2 you just skip the 2nd gear step. Correct 5 seconds in each gear. For the first change no you don't have to replace the drain plug or pan gasket if you pull that as well to clean the magnets (they will be fuzzy with metal shavings from the break-in). Second or third time I would replace them. The TQ values are in here some where. I just snug'd them back up. There's no pressure in the pan so it's not critical.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
Correct 5 seconds in each gear. For the first change no you don't have to replace the drain plug or pan gasket
Thanks for that info; very helpful. If there's no exhaust or anything else to remove to get the oil pan out, I might do that when the time comes. I'd think you only have to do that job once if you never track the car, no? Remember seeing 2 magnets in there, and rather big, so even the first time might be a bit of overkill... especially if there's also a filter in there. But I like having that extra piece of mind
. Now I'm reading you only need 8 quarts; is that the case if you remove the pan? And if not? Supposedly capacity is 10 qts, but if you remove the pan, you can't drain any more than that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
187 Posts
Thanks for that info; very helpful. If there's no exhaust or anything else to remove to get the oil pan out, I might do that when the time comes. I'd think you only have to do that job once if you never track the car, no? Remember seeing 2 magnets in there, and rather big, so even the first time might be a bit of overkill... especially if there's also a filter in there. But I like having that extra piece of mind
. Now I'm reading you only need 8 quarts; is that the case if you remove the pan? And if not? Supposedly capacity is 10 qts, but if you remove the pan, you can't drain any more than that.
The pan is easy to remove with no interference from anything else. Just a bunch of 10mm bolts. I'm sure it'd be fine but since its easy to do I'd hate to leave all those shavings in there. The guys that change it a lot ( people that track their cars) say once you clean it out after 10k theres not much showing up on them anymore. Maybe Jack, Shep or somebody that works on them all the time can chime in.

Even if you remove the pan you only going to use 8 or so quarts. I think 10 quarts is just to make sure. You waste a bit doing the procedure but not much. I only used about 8 qts and back flushed the filter as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
I only used about 8 qts and back flushed the filter as well.
Thanks a lot man. Hey, could you elaborate on that procedure, please?
So I'd only need to buy 8 quarts then. No need to buy extra $50+ quarts if they're not going to be used. I'm going to sell the car for sure before a second one is needed. And you did the engine-start procedure until fluid was dripping at 1 drop/sec from the drain tube, correct? And no need to buy a new gasket or drain plug for the first time then; just 8 qts. of oil. That's better, helping make this DIY service for less than $500 even with stock oil. Pretty pricey still. I plan to do it at the 10K-mile mark, since I'll never track the car. That'd be pretty good, since the first scheduled service would be at 36K otherwise, no? Thx.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
Any comments on which is the smoothest transmission fluid for street use after OEM in a cool climate where I find the clutches can be bouncy and changes jerky for the first 1/4 mile from cold when the outside temperature is below about 50F. WR35TM and Pentosin FFL-R do it, with standard transmission map, LC4, LC5. Think it was better on OEM fluid though. Learning and various clutch adjustments make little/no difference. My present fluid was just a drain and fill with FFL-R after WR35TM, so some of the WR35TM is in there, I could flush it again to dilute any remaining WR35TM as I think that really suits a hot climate for track use, but I don't want to take the sump off and risk a leak, and I don't have much space to work under my car either. I find that using manual and lifting the throttle with the first few changes from cold makes it easier, but it is an annoyance I would like to improve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
967 Posts
It's impossible to find a fluid that will behave the same hot and cold man; it's designed to work properly when at full operating temperature. Just like on manual cars, when fluid is cold, they're notchy, and not smooth shifting overall. As long as you don't have 'crunching' (don't know if a sequential DCT have synchros or not), and it's smooth when hot, I'd call it a day.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,067 Posts
That is the approach I've taken so far, but I think my racing type fluids are over the top for my street use. Given your location I'd have no problems with my fluids as your winter is probably as warm as our summer? There is a "thwump" going from 2nd to 3rd when cold but many get that. Sometimes there is a bounce when the clutch engages 1st to 2nd. Nothing major, but could be better mannered. I suppose I'm looking for good price for OEM fluid or an aftermarket fluid that is as smooth when cold. My trans oil barely breaks 90C, 100C once in 5 years IIRC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,286 Posts
The prices have come down on the transmission service, which used to be required at 18,000 miles. As a previous owner of a first year GT-R, we were told to beware of the, "$2,000 transmission service". When I had mine done, I bought all my transmission fluid, gear oil, rear differential, and motor oil, plus cabin filters, all for $700-something. The labor from White Marsh Nissan was $280. So I made out pretty good. The other maintenance thing we were warned about was the replacement of the brake rotors and pads. What are those going for now?
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top