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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing my first transmission oil change and currently have the pan off. I have pulled the big filter and will clean it together with the pan and its various magnets.

I've read that the smaller filter in the housing can also be cleaned out, so I will do that too.

Is it worth removing the whole valve body to clean it and the solenoids? I don't have any error codes or issues with the transmission, but as it's right there and I'm confident I can do it, I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to go ahead and pull it?

Or is it best to leave well alone unless you have transmission errors?

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
So I pulled the valve body - there was a fair bit of swarfe to be cleaned out from the moving parts, they were a little crunchy in the bores. Now they are smooth as silk.

I'm just waiting on a 36mm spanner to open up the small filter housing to clean the filter inside.

I'd recommend always doing this if you are doing the gearbox oil, or at least every second change.

If anyone needs some pics, I can post them up.
 

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I'd love to see pics!

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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First things first, jack up the car safely and disconnect the negative at the battery (I like to leave the windows down just in case you need to get into the car). From under the car remove the panel under the gearbox and the heatshield around the exhaust - it's just a load of 10mm bolts and is easy to remove:



You will see the transmission oil pan with the drain plug:



OK so this is your fill hole, it's where the propshafts enter the gearbox, you need a Hex socket, mine is in place:



You also need to use a smaller hex to remove first the drain plug and then the tube, here are all three parts removed. Obviously be ready to catch all the old oil that is about to pour out:



Once all the oil is drained, you can remove the transmission oil pan (21 bolts, 10mm). Be ready for another load of oil as the pan comes loose! You will be presented with this:



You can just pull the big filter on the right of my pic straight down, be ready to catch even more oil. Give the filter a good clean, or replace it completely. This is what things look like with the filter removed:



You can see the smaller filter housing on the right, it can be opened with a 36mm socket (I'm still waiting for that, I'll post pics once it's opened).

Undo all the five connectors, and remove the cable tie which is clipped onto the valve body. You don't want to forget anything which will prevent the valve body from being removed. I didn't notice the cable tie clip from what is probably the temperature sensor when I removed mine, I had oil all down my arm trying to get it out with the body loose.

Once you are happy to remove the valve body, remove the five torx bolts which hold the valve body in place. It's not difficult to work out which ones they are, or check the pics below. If you want to, you can use paper clips or similar wire to prevent the cylinders from moving. I did this but next time I won't bother as they will be coming out anyway later. Here are the paper clips in place, one blue, one black:



This is what things look like without the valve body in place. Don't be tempted to move any of those gear forks about, we need to put the valve body back again later and it needs to slot together just how it was before. Note the three rubber O-rings on the right, make sure you have them all and if they are still there as in my pic, just leave them there:



Put the valve body down somewhere safe and clean, and have a look - you will see swarf on the cylinders which you can slide by hand along their bores:



Using a pair of circlip pliers, remove the circlip from the outside end of the bores - I did one by one so as not to get anything mixed up. To get the cap out, just push the cylinder along the bore to pop it out. Make a note which way the cylinder comes out so you can put it back in the same way later:



Remove the cylinder from its bore. You can see one end is different to the other, which helps when putting them back later. Wipe clean the cap and circlip ready to be refitted later.



Clean out the bore thoroughly with a clean cloth and some brake cleaner:



Clean the cylinder itself - swarf will be stuck to it so be careful not to get splinters in your fingers:



Here you can see the magnet in the cylinder. These magnets need to be aligned with the black sensors on the valve body. Reinstall the cylinder in its bore the same way it came out and with the magnets in the right place. Once in, use the paper clip to secure it in place and refit the clean cap and circlip. Repeat the process for all the cylinders.



And thats about it really! Just refit the valve body to the transmission, connect up the electronics, remove those paper clips, refit the big filter and the pan (I reused the gasket) and oil tube and fill with oil until it drips out. Start the engine and wait for the oil to warm up. Use Ecutek to relearn the clutch points and clear any errors. Keep your foot on the brake and change to first for 10 seconds, then to second for 10 seconds. Fill up the oil a little more until it drips from the tube, one drip per second. Then fit the fill and drain plugs and check for any leaks. Once you are happy, refit the panels and heatshield and you are done!
 

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Fantastic post! You should do a full DIY write up, great pictures really help those trying to do this at home.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Here is the filter housing once removed - give it a good clean out:



This is the actual filter - I cleaned it out with brake cleaner and a thin brush but I don't think I would do this every time the pan comes off as no matter how much you try, you are never going to get all the particles out as they are embedded in the filter material. I hope one day a filter manufacturer makes a low cost OEM style replacement, then it would be prudent to just bin this for a fresh one at every oil change as you do with the engine oil filter.

 

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Outstanding! Thank you for the DIY. This is going to really help when I get around to cleaning mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My pleasure - I hope it gives many fellow owners more confidence in doing this very important job. I was reluctant to pull the pan having seen pics of what was lurking behind, but actually it was so easy and straightforward...so don't be worried about doing it.

Interestingly, no TCM errors were thrown at all having disconnected the valve body. However I did the clutch relearn sequence and cleared errors anyway, just to make sure the gearbox was how it should be.

Good luck with your transmission - did I mention that I filled about 9.7l of fresh oil having done all this? If you don't drop the pan, you can do just a drain and refill with about 8l of transmission oil.

If anything isn't clear or you need more info - just ask!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'd prefer soething like the OEM Filter, that I can just throw out each time and replace with a new one. If a filter company were to make them, I'm sure the cost would be reasonable too. I have nothing against the other re-usable ones sold, I just prefer to swap things out with new. I took out the K&Ns that the previous owner had fitted and replaced them with cellulose filter material aftermarket filters, which cost about 20 dollars each...and offer better filtration with a bigger filter surface area than the K&N.
 

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Amsoil may be willing to R&D a trans filter. I've had great experience working with them on parts for other platforms and I prefer their filters over k&n

Sent from my SM-G900V using GT-R Life mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
They would certainly sell, maybe not thousands like an oil filter, but hundreds per year for sure.
 

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Yep. I'd contact them. They are usually really good about stuff like that. My old poc isn't there anymore so I can't point you to someone

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· gta88ws6
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Do you in plug the wires running the under the valve body?

Or just undo the zip tie bracket nut and move out of the way?

sent from my phone...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's a while since I did this - but you don't need to be removing all the wiring from the valve body, just unclip the connectors, undo one bracket with the bolt, move the wires out of the way and there's one plastic clip/tie which should be removed otherwise the valve body will hang on it.

I believe there are two styles of the big connectors - on my 2011 it was simple to unclip but it may be that earlier models need the connectors to be pulled out from the hole in the case and then disconnected.
 

· gta88ws6
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It's a while since I did this - but you don't need to be removing all the wiring from the valve body, just unclip the connectors, undo one bracket with the bolt, move the wires out of the way and there's one plastic clip/tie which should be removed otherwise the valve body will hang on it.

I believe there are two styles of the big connectors - on my 2011 it was simple to unclip but it may be that earlier models need the connectors to be pulled out from the hole in the case and then disconnected.
OK awesome!

Gonna do the job myself in about 5000 mi.

sent from my phone...
 

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Mother of god, you are a brave man!!! Obviously well beyond my skill level but awesome job!!!! Very cool and easy to understand...
 
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