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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, my name is NW and I am a NAGTROC junkie. I read posts every day, and just like everyone else study information to make informed decisions about my car.
The realm of wheels and tires is nearly mystical...diameters, offsets, staggered vs square, tread patterns, flipping, rotating, plugging, patching..... oi vey


Does anyone have the patience to write up the ultimate wheel and tire guide for GTR's that can be pinned as a reference guide? Personally, I think it would be a tremendous accomplishment that would help ALL of us out.
 

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+1
 

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I nominate AutoxGTR... lol
 

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+1. I've searched a bunch, and learned a lot from the different threads, but a single goto source where all the info is compiled and updated would be extremely valuable. Also, it would eliminate all of the "will XX wheels with YY tires fit on my car without rubbing?" threads.
 

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I nominate AutoxGTR... lol
ha! I think if autoxgtr just strung all of his posts together that would be the ultimate wheel/tire thread.
 

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In my opinion anything you can get Hoosiers on would be awesome.My only concern is Tire wear due to the weight of the Gtr .
I track my car and must say the dunlop sport maxi tires are very, very good.I did product testing for Hoosier and absolutely swear by them .Im sure 18's or 19 inch rims would fit the Gtr with hoosiers ,depending on what sizes and diameters are available.
If anyone is interested I have a set of perfect 2010 gtr rims with toyo 888 for sale.PM me if interested
 

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Its a start. Mostly gathered information. Some of my own. The actual document has some pictures in it.

View attachment Wheel_and_Tire_Fitment.doc

Nissan GT-R Wheel and Tire Fitment

Stock GT-R Wheels
Front 20 x 9.5 45 offset
Rear 20 x 10.5 25 offset

Tires
255/40/20 Front 28" diameter
285/35/20 Rear 27.9" diameter

Aftermarket Wheel Fitments

18 inch

-TE37-
18x9.5 +22 front
18x10.5 +15 rear

Volk TE37 (aggressive)
Front: 18×9.5 +22
Rear: 18×10.5 +15

19 inch

-RE30-
19x10 +30 front
19x11 +25 rear

Volk RE30 (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 19×10 +30
Rear: 19×11 +25

Volk TE37 (conservative)
Front: 19×9.5 +40
Rear: 19×10.5 +22

Volk TE37 (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 19×9.5 +35
Rear: 19×10.5 +15

20 inch

Volk G2
Front: 20×10 +30 (25.2 lbs)
Rear: 20×11 +15 (25.8 lbs)

Advan AVS-F7 (conservative)
Front: 20×10 +45
Rear: 20×11 +25

Advan AVS-F7 (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 20×10 +30
Rear: 20×11 +25

Volk G2 (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 20×10 +30
Rear: 20×11 +15

Volk TE37 (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 20×9.5 +25
Rear: 20×10.5 +25

Gram Lights R57GT (conservative)
Front: 20×9.5 +40
Rear: 20×10.5 +20

Gram Lights R57GT (somewhat aggressive)
Front: 20×9.5 +25
Rear: 20×10.5 +20

Gram Lights R57GT (very aggressive)
Front: 20×10.5 +15
Rear: 20×10.5 +25

18 Inch Wheel and Tire Notes

18" Enkei GTC-01 for the track, which are much cheaper then the rays or ccw's (i would only run 18's for the track through, and to and from the track). The Enkei rims are 18x10" - they only make these with a 22mm offset, which is not ideal, but works fine.

Pic: http://www.forrestfamily.com.au/duncan/GTR...rk/P1010064.jpg

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?sh...00&hl=enkei
Here you can see what +22 and 18x10 looks like with stock suspension. wheel is about 33mm farther outside the wheel well vs OEM fronts.
If you use 18x10.5 with +38mm offset then it would be 17mm farther out vs with +15mm offset about +40mm farther outside or almost the same as this picture.

18x10.5 +15mm offset has backspace of 6.3" or 161mm (17mm less backspace), sticks outside 1.6" or 40mm more than OEM fronts
18x10.5 +38mm offset has backspace of 7.2" or 184mm or about 6mm deeper insider the wheel well- should fit OK, sticks outward 0.7" or 17mm vs OEM fronts.

So for inside clearance on the 18x10.5 with +15mm offset it is about the same as what I am running now in 18x10 +22mm offset. Wider 315mm tires should be OK.

So on the rears the 18x10.5 +15mm will give more clearance inside the wheel well to the suspension parts vs +38mm offset which would work for the fronts but be much less aggressive than the +15mm offset 18x10.5" wheels

I think if you started with 18x10.5 +38mm offset on the fronts you could always add 10mm spacers later.
If you used 18x10.5 with +15mm offset front and back it would work but you have to do the test fitment to make sure it cleared everything and you'd have about 315mm tires as the limit due to clearance in the fronts. 305mm would be no problem.

Bridgestone RE55 are more of a competition club racing tire.

It's better for circuit racing: Time Attack, Sports Driving, or endurance track racing.

For the largest size it comes in the tire only comes in a hard compound Type SR2 and is not for any wet use.

It is asymmetic unidirectional left vs right tread, treadwear about 40.

295/35-18 retail $737 each, fits rims 9-11" wide, perfect for 10.5" rim, tire diameter is 26.1", OK to use with GTR and lowered suspension
285/30-18 retail $725 each fits rims 9-10.5" wide, perfect for 10" rim, tire diameter is 24.8", too small to use with GTR, ground clearance would be risky for scraping front lower lip

18" wheels are very limited due to large front brake calipers on GTR

Search for threads on Enkei GTC-01 18x10" et 22 which can be used for both front and rear and can be rotated for better tire wear if tire is not directional or asymmetric.

There are other R compound tires that cost half as much.

If you are not doing strict competition driving then another possible tire for time attack would be-

Toyo R888
295/30-18 $277 each, fits rims 10-11" wide, tire diameter 25.1"
315/30-18 $310 each, fits rims 10.5-11.5" wide, tire diameter 25.5"

Kumho V710
305/30-18 $347 each, tire diameter 25.3"
315/35-18 $336 each, tire diameter 26.4"

If you are doing other track driving or road racing then if you don't need longer tread wear or if you just need a few days on track or faster laps to qualify for time attack then-

Hoosier R6 (harder compound than A6)
295/30-18 $338 each, fits rims 9.5-11" wide, tire diameter 25.3"
315/30-18 $348 each, fits rims 11-12" wide, tire diameter 25.6"

The only thing that connects your Nissan GT-R to the road are the four contact patches of the tires. It is these contact patches, which allow you to turn, stop, and accelerate.

A tire can only give you 100% of its capacity before it starts to slip. It can slip on low traction, it can slip on oil. Slip on….

18 x 10.5 +22 on the front of a GT-R

http://www.2009gtr.com/2008/08/2953018-hoo...-te-37s-on.html

C10 18x10.5 for GT-R is 27mm offset. That's as far in as you can go without rubbing the suspension arm with the inner part of the wheel.

Drag Racing on Nitto Tires 315 front and rear
This exact setup allowed me to set the ALL OUT record 60' time for ANY GTR
Nitto NT05R's 315/40/18 front and rear

Volk TE 37 SL
Rear : 18x11 with 18 offset
Front: 18X10 with 30 offset

Last outing to the Dragstrip, these wheels gave me a 1.45 60' and a 10.003 @137.xx 1/4

19 Inch Wheel and Tire Notes

These fit my OEM suspension 2010MY w/no rubbing issues:

19X9.5 5-114 ET22 Volk TE37 W/ Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 265/35R19
19X10.5 5-114 ET22 Volk TE37 W/ Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 305/30R19

These Hoosier R6's mounted on above wheels also fit OEM suspension 2010MY w/no rubbing issues:

F: 265/35ZR19 Hoosier R6
R: 295/30ZR19 Hoosier R6

Probably the most irritating thing about 19" wheels is that it throws off the speedometer off by @8-9%. This also means the odometer is ticking off miles 8-9% faster than it should be.

On the new set coming my way, I decided to do the same as Forged Performance by going 295/30 19 in front and 305/30 19 in rear. The 305s are a 102Y rating and will give me a little more rubber... but at a cost (the 305s are $90/tire more expensive).

Tiresdirect.net still shows some 305/30-19s in stock (limited availability) at $379/tire.

19 inch wheel and tire thread.

http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?sh...mp;#entry595300

20 Inch Wheel and Tire Notes

Nissan GT-R RC - Super Taikyu Car
20 x 10.5 +25
ADVAN 290/710 R20 slick tire, standard for all RC models
http://www.2009gtr.com/2011/01/nismo-nissa...-available.html

OZ Superleggera III 20"
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

OZ Raffaello III 20"
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

OZ Botticelli III 20"
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

Enkei GTC01 20" (other members have tried lower diam in other nagtroc threads)
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

BBS LM 20"
http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseU...&sort=Brand

Thought this was rather useful. I'm trying to find best/lightest wheel for money.

http://mechdb.com/index.php/20%22_Wheel_weights

And another. I'm sure a lot of people have found these sites but for those who havent....

http://www.wheelweights.net/

TEM TREAD APPROX. APPROX. RECOM. MEASURED SECTION
NUMBER TIRE SIZE WIDTH DIA. CIRC. RIM RIM WIDTH COMPOUNDS

SLICKS
43825 250/650R18 CUP 9.1" 25.6" 80.4" 8-9.5" 9" 9.8" R80, R100
43835 265/645R18 10.1" 25.5" 80.0" 9-10" 10" 10.9" R80, R100
43840 280/680R18 CUP 10.0" 26.9" 84.6" 9-11" 10" 11.3" R100
43855 285/645R18 10.9" 25.5" 80.0" 10-12" 11" 11.7" R80, R100
43857 295/660R18 11.7" 26.9" 84.5" 10-11" 11" 12.3" R100
43860 305/30R18 NARRA 11.6" 25.6" 80.5" 11-12" 11" 12.5"

DOT (R6)
46830 P255/40ZR18 9.8" 26.2" 82.1" 8.5-10.0" 9.0" 10.6"
46832 P255/35ZR18 10.3" 24.8" 77.8" 8.5-10.0" 9.0" 10.8"
46836 P275/35ZR18 10.3" 25.5" 80.2" 9-11" 9.5" 10.7"
46840 P285/30ZR18 10.9" 24.9" 78.1" 10-11" 10.0" 11.5"
46843 P295/30ZR18 10.8" 25.3" 79.5" 9.5-11" 10.0" 11.6"
46846 P315/30ZR18 11.8" 25.6" 80.5" 11-12" 11.0" 12.5"

http://www.2009gtr.com/2008/12/couple-of-i...hings-from.html

Pictures of wheel fit

http://lh3.ggpht.com/_8MPCKJQzPA8/SVmvBuYz...00/CIMG3811.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_8MPCKJQzPA8/SVmvGbBn...00/CIMG3819.JPG

Rear wheels 20x10.5+25 285's on the front - http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/...57625733786272/

Stock is 9.5 + 45 in the front.

So the 11 is 1.5 inches wider or 25.4 mm x 1.5 inches= 38.1 mm wider. So if the offset stayed the same +45, the wheel goes 19 mm in, and 19 mm out with the 11 inch wide.

So now you go with a +15 offset on a 9.5 wheel. That would move the wheel out 30 mm. So if you took a 9.5 wheel, with a 15 offset, it would move out 30 mm, or stick out about 10 mm from the factory fender.

The PWJDM fenders are +38 mm. A stock wheel, PWJDM fender would probably be in from the fender about 58mm(based on a 20mm being nearly flush). So, we take the +15 11.5 mm wheel . Add the +30, add the 19 mm- which puts it about 49 mm out. I think it would look fine, a spacer is probably pushing it. Gives you a little wiggle room.

20 mm spacers front and rear

http://www.2009gtr.com/2008/12/couple-of-i...hings-from.html

OEM RFT tires for GT-R
All of the following run-flat tires (RFT) are considered OEM for GT-R. Except for the Blizzaks and depending on year, package, and market, any of those tires can be mounted on the GT-R from the factory.
- Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GT 600 DSST CTT (newer) - adhoc report that they are more puncture prone than the Dunlop 600
- Dunlop SP Sport 600 DSST (will be referred to as Dunlop 600 below)
- Dunlop SP Sport 7010 A/S DSST (all-season)
- Bridgestone Potenza RE070R R2 (newer)
- Bridgestone Potenza RE070R
- Bridgestone Blizzak LM-25 (winter)

GT-R Tire Performance Database
It would be useful to have tire information broken down by criteria such as grip (dry, wet, winter), longevity, etc. The comparison data must be with everything else being equal such as camber and preferably using stock settings as the common reference point. The intention is not to direct anyone to any specific tire, but at least to warn people to adjust their driving style according to the capabilities of the tire rather than having a false sense of security with the general belief that all models of brand X are better than brand Y under all conditions so caution can be thrown into the wind etc.

Grip Performance (street)
Dry
Dunlop Maxx GT 600 > Dunlop 600 > Bridgestone RE070R > Dunlop 7010 A/S

We don`t have enough info on the newer Bridgestone RE070R R2 tire to see where it fits in with the rest.

Wet
Dunlop 7010 A/S > Bridgestone RE070R > Dunlop 600

It's not clear where the Dunlop summer Maxx GT fit in nor do we have any info on the newer Bridgestone RE070R R2 tire.
The Bridgestone RE070R being better than the Dunlop 600 is based on speculation that the comments in this thread refers to those models (not the A/S nor the newer Maxx GT).
At least with the summer tires, it is known that under wet or cold conditions, the back end can snap oversteer if applying too much throttle deliberately.

Winter
Bridgestone Blizzak > Dunlop 7010 A/S

The Blizzaks have much better stopping ability.

Tread Life (street)
Dunlop 7010 A/S > Bridgestone RE070R > Dunlop 600

The Dunlop 7010 A/S tires are known to last longer than any of the summer performance tires while still performing quite well for street use and occasional track use.
User feedback for this category is relevant because, despite its name, the Uniform Tire Quality Grade (UTQG) Rating is not applicable across tire manufacturers due to its original intention being botched.

Comment
The above was garnered from feedback in various threads, but is open for debate and correction. I suppose it doesn't belong in this thread but it has evolved into a tire comparison thread nevertheless.

285 Dunlop tires front and rear

http://www.2009gtr.com/2011/01/285s-in-fro...-with-gt-r.html

R888 285 = 32lbs
R888 315 = 32.9lbs

2009-2011
S600 255 = 37lbs
S600 285 = 40lbs

2012
SMaxx600 255 = 36lbs
SMaxx600 285 = 39lbs

21 Inch Wheels and Tires

375/20/21 on the rear -
http://www.2009gtr.com/2009/04/3752021-tire-on-gt-r.html
 

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Sean,

Thank you for taking the time to put together such an indepth post on the tires. I am sure everyone on the site will find this information useful.

I am looking forward to hearing how the RE07R2's fall in the dry and wet performance mix.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes! Now we are on to something! Great work Sean! A little more collating and some fine tuning and we are going to have the one stop shopping center for all wheel and tire questions.
On a related note, enkei PF01 seems to have good fitment along with Forgestar CF5 (18")
One thing I'd like to see is a chart like this

Optimum size and offset front and rear (staggered and square)
18
19
20

Optimum tire size for wheel size ( staggered and square)
18
19
20
 

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I can see what you are looking for but this is not so simple a task.

Kudos to Sean for a good start. Some things to think about.

Reality check- what is your budget? Unlimited funds- then go custom wheels and make them light weight and wider than stock in any size from 18" to 21".

But for most of us we are budget minded so we have to pick and choose the combinations that will work for our needs.

R compound tires are great for performance but not for street use- the exception would be Toyo R888 which are durable for the track but not quite as soft as grippy as other R compound tires yet OK for street use if you don't drive too many miles per year. Generally it is a waste to run track tires on the street unless you get sponsored.

Extreme Summer tires would be good choice but are very limited in sizes for the GTR- the stock Runflats are good but expensive.

Max Summer tires non runflat have not been discussed but can be staggered - see sizes close to 28" tire diameter in Michelin Pilot Super Sport or can be square and just put the same tire 275/35-20 on both front and rear wheels, just a little smaller tire diameter than stock which is fine.

For track use you can run tires that are smaller than stock tire diameter but for street use the lack of clearance can be very risky- not worth it in my opinion.

Just because you put on non runflats doesn't mean you will see the tires get the kind of treadwear they are supposed to get. I hear from some owners that non runflats will wear just as quickly or more so than runflats. Treadwear varies with driving technique. My front OEM runflats lasted 10,000 miles and my rears are still original after over 15K miles and still OK but worn on the inner edges.

If you run an aggressive alignment and have a lowered suspension don't expect tire treadwear to be very good.

Here's what I usually think about when tires and wheels are concerned.

First I think about what I am trying to do with my GTR that I need tires or wheels for-
Appearance and car shows
Track
Drag racing
Autocross
Time attack
Rallycross
High Perf Driving event
Hill climb
Street use
Combination of any or all

If for street use are you considering- ride quality and comfort, noise, treadwear, wet and dry traction, looks, etc?

Start with the tires that would be best and be within budget. Soft compounds wear fast, hard compounds are not as grippy but last longer and support multi driver cars better. Think about heat generated and how that might affect the tires- higher heat such as longer tracks need more durable tires that can handle heat.

Since all tires do not come in all sizes if you choose tires first you will see if there are any possible tires that come in sizes that are wide enough and are close to the 27-28" tire diameter. When you see a size or combo of sizes that will work then you can look for wheels that will work. I choose tires first then wheels to match. Not wheels first.

Wider wheels and wider tires in front will help grip and reduce understeer. Add an aggressive alignment and lower the suspension and add adjustable front and rear swaybars and you can dial out understeer more, up to a point. Then practice driving and learn how to control mild understeer and oversteer.

A square set up either with tires alone or with both wheels and tires is a compromise since the rears can be quite wide but the fronts are limited due to clearance when turning. A staggered setup is better for grip but you cannot rotate tires for better wear, expect to wear the fronts faster.

Flipping a tire inner side out can be done to extend the life of the tread but don't wait too long before doing it. Perhaps after about 35-40% of the life of the tire is used then flip it.

Heat cycling a new R compound tire is good- tirerack does it (small fee) with rollers as to not wear the tread. This brings the tire up to temperature that allows the rubber to be more durable after it cools down and rests. While you can do your own heat cycling I have not found it to be as easy as it might seem- if you have private roads or a large safe clear parking lot to turn huge circles then it might be OK. Remember you are also wearing out the rubber as you drive. And don't take risks and get into an accident.

Tire models vary from year to year- I think in the future we will have more to choose from in 20". The only reason we are looking at some options in 18" and 19" is that the selection of tires for the track are better than in 20" sizes. Forget 21" except for street use for now.

For Rallycross there are few options for tires. Snow tires would work but the sidewalls are not as stiff as true rally tires.

And for runflats- despite any rumors you have gotten at the dealership, runflats can be repaired, dismounted, remounted, flipped, and worn inner treadside out if you want. It is the technique the mechanic uses more than the equiptment when dealing with runflats.
 

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what would be the best compromise for tires to be put on OEM wheels that would only be used for track purposes? road course mostly, but some drag strip

edit: I do need to be able to drive to the track on these tires however (80 miles)
 

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what would be the best compromise for tires to be put on OEM wheels that would only be used for track purposes? road course mostly, but some drag strip

edit: I do need to be able to drive to the track on these tires however (80 miles)
If there is a compromise, then the tire is a compromise. Its not going to be as good as a dedicated tire. There are a lot of things to consider when it comes to a tire.

They are consumable, and if you use them hard, then you use them up quickly.

The more they grip, the more they wear.

A good tire for a road course has a stiff sidewall. For a drag strip, it has a soft sidewall. For the street, somewhere inbetween.

So as you can see, you really need to pick a tire for its primary purpose, and if you use it everywhere else too, then those are the compromised spots.
 

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If there is a compromise, then the tire is a compromise. Its not going to be as good as a dedicated tire. There are a lot of things to consider when it comes to a tire.

They are consumable, and if you use them hard, then you use them up quickly.

The more they grip, the more they wear.

A good tire for a road course has a stiff sidewall. For a drag strip, it has a soft sidewall. For the street, somewhere inbetween.

So as you can see, you really need to pick a tire for its primary purpose, and if you use it everywhere else too, then those are the compromised spots.
I have aftermarket wheels that are on the car all the time, I would like to get some dedicated track tires for the OEM wheels that I can use for HPDE and the other road course events. Any suggestions ?
 

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I have aftermarket wheels that are on the car all the time, I would like to get some dedicated track tires for the OEM wheels that I can use for HPDE and the other road course events. Any suggestions ?
R888 in a 285 all around. Good wear. Its a streetable tire, although a little loud for the street for a DD. In a square, you can rotate that left front off, and although it requires unmounting it, you can do it to even out wear.
 

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If there is a compromise, then the tire is a compromise. Its not going to be as good as a dedicated tire. There are a lot of things to consider when it comes to a tire.

They are consumable, and if you use them hard, then you use them up quickly.

The more they grip, the more they wear.

A good tire for a road course has a stiff sidewall. For a drag strip, it has a soft sidewall. For the street, somewhere inbetween.

So as you can see, you really need to pick a tire for its primary purpose, and if you use it everywhere else too, then those are the compromised spots.
thank you sean. I figure a non runflat will have better performance for the drag strip, but road course is my primary focus. I don't care if they wear quick. are the r888's the best road course option in 20" size that will fit on oem wheels?
 

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thank you sean. I figure a non runflat will have better performance for the drag strip, but road course is my primary focus. I don't care if they wear quick. are the r888's the best road course option in 20" size that will fit on oem wheels?
R888 is about the best R compound option in a 20" for stock wheel sizes. It will work on the street. It will work on the dragstrip, however its place is the road course.
 

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R888 is about the best R compound option in a 20" for stock wheel sizes. It will work on the street. It will work on the dragstrip, however its place is the road course.
great. and considering i don't care for quicker wear since these are strictly going to be used for track purposes, should i do 285 F, 315 R? or do i go 285 all around?
 

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great. and considering i don't care for quicker wear since these are strictly going to be used for track purposes, should i do 285 F, 315 R? or do i go 285 all around?
Some people like as much rubber as possible. I like going square because you are evening out the balance of the car a bit. Going larger in the rear induces some more understeer. If you are very traction limited, then going wider with other suspension adjustments might make sense, but for 95% of the guys that track their cars, I like square.

You will ALWAYS wear one tire more than the rest. Left front in most cases on most tracks. Comes with the territory of clockwise direction tracks. Try and balance that wear by moving the tire around. Once you have run a set of tires at the track, you really don't want to replace just one tire. You want to at least do them in pairs. So, if you rotate them around, you will get some more life out of them.
 
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