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How much weight would you save by replacing each of these parts with dry CF from Seiboncarbon?
Hood, all fenders, trunk, doors and wing.

Yes, I know they are outrageously priced, but how much weight in lbs would be realized?
Replies of "the cost to weight ratio is not worth it" type are not needed.

I'm assuming 09-13 GTRs are pretty much the same body components.

They list their dry CF parts weights. Does anyone have OEM weights for these?
HOOD - HD0910NSGTR-OE-DRY: 13.2 lbs
TRUNK - TL0910NSGTR-DRY: 5.5 lbs
FENDERS - FF0910NSGTR-OE-DRY: 3.2 lbs each fender
DOORS - DD0910NSGTR-OE-DRY: 7.9 lbs each door
WING - RS0910NSGTR-OE-DRY: 6.75 lbs

Seibon sales was no help.

Thanks.
 

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GTR Nerd
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Pick up this months DSport Magazine, they took 214 lbs off their R35.

This doesn't want to format correctly.

27 Hood

61 Suspension

41 Exhaust

30.3 Y-Pipe

24.9 Front Disc with hat
2 Front hat
26.3 Rear Disc with hat
8.5 Rear hat
9.1 Front Caliper 6 pot
6.9 Rear Caliper 4 pot
16 Roof
19.6 Trunk with wing
17.5 Rear seats
8.6 Bose subwoofer
12 Pass side downpipe
11.4 Drivers side downpipe
63 OEM Seat

Penske Coil Overs 21
CCM Brakes 38
STILLEN Mid-pipe/Y-pipe 14
STILLEN Exhaust 11
 

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11,288 Posts
Save your money imho. Get lighter rims, tires, brake rotors, suspension, exhaust etc. Carbon fiber will only save a few lbs and seibon is a gamble plus they built there company on stealing designs from everyone else and have debatable quality. Something simple like a wing or lip without much issues ... But you won't be saving much weight with those.

Doors need to be top quality if your going to replace them imho but even then its unsafe on a street driven car. Having a race car with cage you may have to modify the carbon door. Just sayin.

I can see a front bumper and rear bumper in dry carbon to save the most weight of the bunch but the cost is too high and better spent on other items… unless your trying to reduce every ounce of weight without modifying the actual chassis like in race Cars.

You can go on a diet and save weight. Also how much performance do you think you will get for 100-200lbs off? It would be marginal for the money of all that CF alone? And more benifit from reducing weight on tires/wheels, seats, added performance with suspension, brakes and exhaust etc.

Get carbon roof, hood, trunk and call it a day. AMS and password:jdm has all 3 iirc and top notch quality and good for the price. Plenty of brands out there.

Btw are those seibon parts frp or just dry carbon?
 

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17.5 Rear seats
I wonder if that's w/ the belts/hardware removed too. It doesn't seem like the cushions will amount to 17.5 lbs.

I'll be finding out, as I'll be taking them out for an upcoming National Tour.
 

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I wonder if that's w/ the belts/hardware removed too. It doesn't seem like the cushions will amount to 17.5 lbs.
That must be it--all hardware removed too. The seat cushions were only 10lbs total...
 

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yeh id be looking at unsprung weight in wheels, tyres, discs to make the car change direction quicker and feel lighter through the steeringwheel

you have to be careful with carbon and make sure its not just an frp base mould with a layer of carbon over the top for the look - ive seen an frp/carbon bonnet snap on the latches and cut through a windscreen like butter on a front impact
 

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Good point domino.

yeh id be looking at unsprung weight in wheels, tyres, discs to make the car change direction quicker and feel lighter through the steeringwheel

you have to be careful with carbon and make sure its not just an frp base mould with a layer of carbon over the top for the look - ive seen an frp/carbon bonnet snap on the latches and cut through a windscreen like butter on a front impact
 

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Mindless there are some people like myself who believe in weight saving 'outweighing' cost. Yes it is expensive at the onset however there are people here who drop 40 to 100 grand on boosting engine performance without batting an eyelid. Now removing weight alone will not be equivalent to adding gobs of power but I personally believe if you are going to keep car longer then spend the dough if you have it. Less time and money will be spent replacing worn parts especially if you are not in the habit of banging up your car.
I would say to OP, if you have the dough get Mine's or Top Racing CF parts way better quality. I am also looking @ doing weight reduction somewhat along the lines of DSports but already I see a steep budget. I won't do the rear seat deletes or roof or remove music. I want car to look as stock as possible. Sleeper light-weight GT-R.
 

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Yoga Instructor. 1964 Fiat 500 owner. Creator at B
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Why do you need to lighten your car so much? Unless you plan to track your car, there really is no point of investing so much money to lighten it. It sounds expensive. Even then you'd remove the second seat and all accessories to get it to the bare minimum weight.

edit addition: There should be a comparison chart somewhere that tells you the difference between stock and CF. I just did a Google search and some comparisons came up. Google it, you'd be surprised what you find. Then, of course, you'll have to verify it as everything on the internet isn't always true ;)
 

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its considered dry because you dont build up wet resin to lay down the carbon over an fg/frp mould
 

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Dry carbon is suppose to be pre preg vacuumed infused and processed in an autoclave under a precise process of heat and preassure. However some people dont use that same term the same. Some claim it as a matte finish only others claim it as just vacume infused without prepreg. Its complicated cause there is no standard and if there was no one abides by it or will.
 

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Pick up this months DSport Magazine, they took 214 lbs off their R35.

This doesn't want to format correctly.

27 Hood

61 Suspension

41 Exhaust

30.3 Y-Pipe

24.9 Front Disc with hat
2 Front hat
26.3 Rear Disc with hat
8.5 Rear hat
9.1 Front Caliper 6 pot
6.9 Rear Caliper 4 pot
16 Roof
19.6 Trunk with wing
17.5 Rear seats
8.6 Bose subwoofer
12 Pass side downpipe
11.4 Drivers side downpipe
63 OEM Seat

Penske Coil Overs 21
CCM Brakes 38
STILLEN Mid-pipe/Y-pipe 14
STILLEN Exhaust 11
Did they give a budget? Curious to know how much spent per lb of weight reduction for those 214 lbs removed.
 

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That must be it--all hardware removed too. The seat cushions were only 10lbs total...
Um... Mod not recommended for street driven cars w/ exhaust work (whaddya say?)... lol They're going back in between big events.
 

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Weight saving is certainly makes the car accelerate and stop faster. However, significant weight loss would also reduce amount of traction from less dynamic weight (static weight plus/minus transferred weight) to each tire. Addition of aerodynamic downforce should be used to increase the traction .
 

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Weight saving is certainly makes the car accelerate and stop faster. However, significant weight loss would also reduce amount of traction from less dynamic weight (static weight plus/minus transferred weight) to each tire. Addition of aerodynamic downforce should be used to increase the traction .
I'm not sure the physics are there to support this, even though Mizuno has eluded to this as well. If you half the weight you loose half the static downforce, but do you really have worse handling? I doubt it.
 

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With the exception of C/F, most of the weight savings are normal mods anyway. Maybe not CCM but that's a huge improvement in overall performance and durability. I look at it as free horsepower if you add mods that save weight.
 

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GTR Nerd
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Did they give a budget? Curious to know how much spent per lb of weight reduction for those 214 lbs removed.
Oh, no budget. They did break it down cost/lb.

Total cost of parts - $41,443
$193.84 per lb

Static weight - 156.4 lbs
Unsprung weight - 57.4 lbs
Rotating weight - 36.4 lbs

Factory weight - 3898 lbs
After reduction - 3684 lbs
 

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Oh, no budget. They did break it down cost/lb.

Total cost of parts - $41,443
$193.84 per lb

Static weight - 156.4 lbs
Unsprung weight - 57.4 lbs
Rotating weight - 36.4 lbs

Factory weight - 3898 lbs
After reduction - 3684 lbs
Now that's expensive, at around $200/lb and all they managed was to drop the weight just over 5%. It shows just how hard it is do remove weight from the GT-R without redesigning the platform while keeping it as a road car. Best weight taken off is the rotating weight (tires, then wheels, then discs) since you have to rotationally accelerate and brake it, then high-up weight to lower the CoG like the roof or hood, trunk and spoiler, and then the unsprung weight since that helps traction over bumps. There has to be a cost benefit analysis somewhere, but if money is no object.....
 

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Um... Mod not recommended for street driven cars w/ exhaust work (whaddya say?)... lol They're going back in between big events.
LOL, I will be taking mine out for each event and putting back in after. Luckily I only have a 10 minute drive to autoX events. Of course I could just hit the switch and actually run the exhaust through the muffler, but where's the fun in that.


I would be tempted to do the widebody front fenders only. At least you get an added benefit of being able to run a true square setup with 315's to go with the slight weight savings.
 
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