[sjj31]

Need some advice, particularly given that I am not a mechanic and know a limited amount about engines. My goals are not to make 1000hp but to build a rock solid car that can take the beating of a lot of track time and be fast at the strip (I am blessed to have 2 road courses within 45 minutes of my house as well as two drag strips within 45 minutes). I am considering having an engine build done this winter and looking for real world experience, and hoping you have seen this type of build before (vendors have been helpful but looking for some real builds and your experience with them). Now that I am tracking a lot I figured I need the reliability of a build and after my last scare at the track (stupid computer problem… good news engine is fine) it made me think it is much cheaper to do now vs. later and I have a long winter ahead being in the midwest. My current long block has about 14,500 miles on it and my other mods are:

Go: HKS Legamax Catback, HKS Midpipe (Catless), Kressieg Downpipes (Catless), ID 1000cc injectors, Gotboost's 3" intake system, K&N drop in filters
Tune: Cobb AP-NIS-006 with custom tune
Stop: AP J Hook Rotors, Forged SS Brake Lines, Endless MX72 (Street) Pads, Hawk DTC - 70/60 Pads (Track), Motul Brake Fluid
Solid: Shepard Transmission - Stage 2 Build - Transmission, PPG - First Gear,
Dodson - Super Stock Clutch, Gear Set, Clutch Pack and all the other goodies, Willall Fluid
Cooling: SSP Transmission Cooler, HKS Drop In Filters
Wheels: 20" forgestar and OEM
Grip: Potenza R2's (OEM Size) for Track and Daily Driving, Nitto NT05R & Nitto NT555R Drag Radials for dragstrip (20")
Handling: Eibach Sway Bars

Goals:

1. Keep the cost down (of course)
2. Emerge with a rock solid 600-650 wheel HP car that can take the beating at the track (I'm thinking 20 track days next season) and run low 10.3 or under at the drag strip with my Nittos
3. Finally this car is also my daily driver from April-October and I want to keep the daily driveability (I love this about the GTR, the only thing I have to do special is change tires for the dragstrip, I drive on the track with my run flats that I daily drive with).

Initial thoughts are:

• Pistons
• Connecting Rods
• Mainstuds
• Bearings and hardware
• Upgraded Oil Pump and filter
• Engine Gasket Set
• Cams
• Valve train locks and springs
• Upgraded turbos? Do I need to take some strain off at the road course? And if I go to the upgraded turbos assuming I need an upgraded intercooler.
• Tuning:

1. Go with a dyno retune and a specifically dialed in a road course tune
2. Dyno tune for a Specifically dialed in dragstrip tune
3. Fuel: should I stay at 93 octane pump gas or E85 (as it is prevalent around here)

The overall goal is to do what we can to marry the new tranny build with the appropriate engine build.

 

[JonV8944s]

I hate to point out the obvious, but why arent you talking to a Switzer or AMS ? This is not a job you should undertake on your own, or even with a shade tree mechanic. Leave this job to the pros. Go with the expertice that is LUCKILY for us all in the midwest, very close to us.

Let them tell you what you need, and how best to reach your goals. Agree on the front end on costs and modifications, and dont allow the 'scope creep' that often happens with builds. Happened recently to a friend of mine, and I think it was slightly inappropriate as they got him to buy more mods then he signed up for.

Get a build list after explaining what you want to achieve and get it in writting that they will deliver to that for the agreed upon price.

Excited for ya, I can see the track bug has bite you quite hard. I get to have the honor of knowing I was the first guy to ever have hit the track with ya

Good Luck!

Jon

PS. I think your build list is good, I would vote for better Turbos. Better to have the power if you need it, instead of over spinning your stockers trying to make power they arent in their comfort zone with doing. Also you have the motor out, why wouldnt you take advantage of the 'labor save' of throwing in a couple of turbos. Dont go crazy, dont over size them, but get something thats at home on a road course.

 

[Goodwood]

Hey Steve, sorry I can't offer any advice on engine build, other than with a full build, I'd stick with Gas vs E85. You won't need E85 with a full build! That, and I love the Cosworth rods and pistons! I can only say I'll def be bringing up the rear next yr! So, specifically, what was wrong with your car from gingerman?

 

[Goonthree]

Build motor, Upgraded turbos that spool fast such as hks gt800, alpha 9, intercoolers, e85, id2000 injectors (only if E85), 3" intake, fuel pumps. The e85 will make your car run cool and prevent knock. You can have 4 tunes for gas and 4 for e85.
I like etune because you are tuning to real conditions. Etune maps for road course and drag and work out with your tuner to turn around the maps in 15-20 minutes so you can have the car tuned in half a day. There is no substitute for the real data. I see a few high Hp cars dynoed tuned then the tuner show up to the drag strip and tune it more. If dyno tune is so great, you wouldn't see people with laptops at the strip tuning.

 

[JonV8944s]

Also, you can get a 93 octane tune and a e85 tune. I think if you remember I ran out of gas on our track day, so if you have an e85 setup and your not carrying 5, 5 gallon e85 tanks with you, you will likely run out of gas at the track and be out of luck. So unless you know they have e85, or you plan on taking some, I'd just shoot for 93.

Jon

 

[GTRheritage]

"Disclaimer" I'm biased.....You should call AMS Monday and get a Quote on what it's actually gonna cost.It will surprize you

 

[NickTO]

 

[sjj31]

"Disclaimer" I'm biased.....You should call AMS Monday and get a Quote on what it's actually gonna cost.It will surprize you

I have talked with some of the vendors and actually will talk with them all as I certainly don't plan on doing this myself. I am just curious who has done something similiar. I see a bunch of high HP builds but looking for advice on my specific parameters, so I don't get build creep

 

[Goodwood]

So, specifically, what was wrong with your car from gingerman?

 

[Se7enGTR]

T1/ID does good work and has the best pricing. PM, Tony1.

 

[Ehunn]

T1/ID does good work and has the best pricing. PM, Tony1.

I am a "noob" to this site but just bought mt gtr. T1 built my last car which was a low 10 second Honda civic street car. I can not say enough about this company and their service. Best I have ever experienced so I have to agree with the above post.

 

[Bob]

AAM is building mine right now, give Clint a call...