nice time for a flex fuel upgrade!

 

Seems like a conservative tune by TB. Safe for your car.

 

Safe tune is good. No plans to build transmission or engine.

No plans for Flex Fuel either (at the moment).

 

Very nice. Curious are you thinking of doing pumps?

 

Nah, don't need the fuel pumps since I'm on pump gas. My Injector duty cycle on my current setup is only like 49%.

You only need pump gas if going E85.

 

Nice, safe datalog.

Enjoy it!

 

P.S.- With Tim Bailey tuning your car, you're in capable hands.

He's one of the best in this industry and we're lucky to get to work with him!

 

Do you have a "before" dyno? Or one from a stock car on that same dynamometer?
522 for FBO seems a bit low? Particularly with kit named "SBD700", in which, I assume, the "700" is supposed to be crank HP? That would imply a 178hp driveline loss, which, if it were true, would mean such a monumental amount of heat being dissipated by your transmission that the car wouldn't survive long.

I know all dynos are different which is why I asked about the "before". Mine bone stock 2014 made 505WHP on a dynojet (those read higher typically. But by how much?)

 

I do not have a before dyno. But the shop said that stock DBA on their dyno see around 400 HP. So my SBD700 netted me about 120 HP to the wheels.

Yes, SBD700 means 700 hp at the crank and running on E85. I don't k ow how much crank an SBD700 is rated if on pump gas (but my guess is 625 hp crank).

But I may go to another shop to get the car run on a Dynojet, which I'm expecting to see maybe 575 hp, which is how much Kozmic believes it would make; and also how much Tim Bailey thinks it'll make.

As mentioned above, Dynojet reads about 10-15% higher than Mustang. That is because a Dynojet does not apply load (the weight of the car). On the other hand, a Mustang applies load on the car, to more accurately simulate the car driving on a street. I wished I had taken a video of it, but on the Mustang dyno, you actually see the car drop a few inches as it sits and nestles itself on the drums, because the drums actually open up horizontally to create a small gap, taking the full weight of the car.

 

That's right on target, 120whp on 93 octane, 150whp on E85 in gains.

 

Nice car. Any drone or rasp with your exhaust setup? I'm going to have the exact same setup on my car and I'm concerned it might be a little too much.

 

The definition of rasp and drone is subjective to the driver. I think there is a little bit of both but it doesn't bother me at all. I don't drive long distances or take the GTR out on road trips. It's the Downpipes that really waken the exhaust note up. With midpipe and rear section of exhaust, the car was tame.

I am running a street spec exhaust with mufflers in the rear section so that helps to quiet things down.

You should've heard the car on the dyno in person. It was insanely LOUD. The video doesn't capture the true sound.

 

My power mods are as follows:

Bosch EV14 1150 cc Injectors​

SBD 3" Intake​

SBD 3" Catless Downpipe​

SBD 3.5" Catless Non-Resonated Midpipe​

SBD 3.5" Street Spec Exhaust​

Stock Fuel Pumps​

Cobb Accessport NIS-008​

E-Tune from Tim Bailey​

Very nice numbers from a solid set of upgrade components. I'm going to use your example as my new target when I modd.

How important is the exhaust upgrade? What if one just limited exhaust upgrade to just the mid and down pipes? What would the expected reduction be in the HP/Torque gains/with your whole kit if these where left out?

 

I don't believe the rear section of the exhaust gives you much gains-perhaps 5 hp and 5 ft-lb less if you just used stock exhaust. The rear exhaust is beneficial generally to change the exhaust tone to deeper.

 

Idk about kozmic cars..

 

My car isn't a Kozmic car for the record. I only got my car dyno-ed at Kozmic. What's wrong with Kozmic?

 

I've had a pretty bad experience with them. If you send me a PM I can give you some details.

 

Contact Tim or Chris at SBD directly and they can get you quotes on the parts you need to get an SBD700, but without the exhaust and the dual fuel pumps. The most expensive part will be the Cobb Accessport, which is not included in the SBD700. You need to buy that separately from SBD or any other Cobb authorized vendor. Because you are getting intake and downpipe, you need to get a custom e-tune, which SBD can connect you with the pro tuner of your choice for Cobb (or Ecutek if you want to go Ecutek) as part of a package deal.

For labor, you should be able to get intake, injectors, downpipe, and midpipe installed for $650-800 (USD) for labor. It is about 5 hrs of labor.

I think you can do what you want for around $4,100-$4,300 USD for parts and labor. But your mileage may vary.

Add another $100-$125 for three dyno pulls.

 

Thank you for such a detailed reply. It is very helpful. That is the way I'm going to go when I'm ready. Great bang for the buck.

 

Numbers seem solid for a conservative 93 tune on a mustang.

Enjoy !!

 

I likely we'll be getting another dyno done in a month or so--but this time on a AWD Dynojet so I can compare my numbers to I suppose is the "standard" dynamometer among the car community. I'm hoping for 575 hp and 540 ft-lb on an AWD Dynojet.

I'll post up my graph, video, and log file again. Stay tuned.

 

Do people realize AWD cars lose 20% to the ground?

 

No they don't. Back in the 90s when cars had primitive non locking torque converter automatic transmissions you could maybe see that much power being lost between the engine and the wheels, and I guess multiplying your chassis dyno number by 1.2 gives one's ego a nice big number to talk about at Cars and Coffee, but that is simply not applicable to a modern vehicle, and the dyno numbers back that up. My bone stock 2014 GTR made 498WHP SAE corrected. The engine horsepower is SAE J1949 meaning that it makes what Nissan says it makes, plus or minus a couple of percent at most.
Borg Warner claims that the dual clutch transmission in a GTR is 94% efficient once in gear, so where is that extra 16% loss coming from, in your mind? A differential is about 98% efficient, so with two of them you might be looking at 10-12% driveline losses on a GTR *at most*.

 

You don't believe any power is lost transferring through the driveshaft or anything that connects to the wheels?

 

I just quantified it for you.
But hey, what do I know, I'm just a Mechanical Engineer...

 

And do we have empirical evidence to back up borgs 94% claim?

 

I read that entire post and nowhere did you mention at all how much power is getting sapped up from any other components but the transmission and diff. Which I won't argue about the loss about.